($23, Jorge Ordonez): Rioja, like many wine areas around the world, is home to producers who are breaking from tradition. Miguel Angel De Gregorio, the winemaker at Finca Allende, eschews the traditional Rioja nomenclature of Crianza or Reserva, but still embraces the indigenous grapes, mainly Tempranillo, to make this bold wine. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Baron de Ley, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 2001
($49, Frederick Wildman): Baron de Ley, whose first vintage was 1990, has already shown its talent at combining the “traditional” and the “modern” in Rioja. Instead of the common practice of purchasing grapes from neighbors to supplement their supply, they adopted the Bordeaux chateau model of using only their own fruit. … Read more
Finca Allende, Rioja (Spain) Calvario 2004
($85, Jorge Ordonez): This, Finca Allende’s top wine and a traditional blend of Tempranillo (85%) and Graciano, comes from a single vineyard—the highest elevation in the town of Briones—that was planted in 1945. The combination of elevation and old vines explains its extraordinary complexity. … Read more
Weingut Josef Leitz, Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Trocken Alte Reben 2009
($43, Michael Skurnik): Count me among those who love the detail of the German wine label. They may be long, but like this one, it tells you what you want to know before you pull the cork. The shortcut, of course, which works in this instance, is to just remember the producer. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2008
($65, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): 
Laurent Drouhin, one of the principals of the house, says that his father believes the 2008 Chablis are the “best of his lifetime,” because of the ideal weather during the growing season and their biodynamic farming. … Read more
Jean-François Merieau, Touraine (Loire Valley, France) “Les Arpents des Vaudons” 2009
($16, Jon-David Headrick Selections): This is the kind of wine that consumers are always searching for: one that over delivers for its appellation. The Touraine appellation pales in prestige to ones like Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, but, like wines from those areas, this wine delivers the appealing grapefruit-like bite of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Domaine de Chatenôy, Ménétou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($20, VOS Selections): Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, notes that it’s sometimes difficult to distinguish wines from adjoining appellations in the Loire because of overlapping and similar soils. That observation explains why wines from Ménétou-Salon, a small–just over 1,000 acres, not even a fifth the size of Sancerre–and less prestigious appellation, are a good alternative to Sancerre, especially when made by a talented producer such as this one. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004
($18, San Francisco Wine Exchange): I tasted this wine about two months ago at a large tasting of Rioja and then shared a bottle at dinner just recently. Among its peers at the tasting, it fell more into the “traditional” than “modern” style. … Read more
Andrew Will, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2008
($24): 
Chris Camarda, winemaker at Andrew Will, states (not entirely objectively of course) that “This is the best Merlot for the price on the market today.” After tasting it, it’s hard to disagree. The economic recession has had its effect, forcing him to cut production of higher priced wines, to funnel some of those grapes into lower tier wines and to cut prices drastically. … Read more
Andrew Will, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) “Sorella” 2007
($65): This Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Merlot (10%) and Petit Verdot, all from the Champoux vineyard, represents this producer’s best wine. With suave ripe black fruit and toasty notes, it’s a gorgeous combination of refinement and power. … Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “La Tourtine” 2007
($75, Kermit Lynch): The only question I have about this wine is whether it’s their best ever. Domaine Tempier is on everyone’s short list of Bandol’s finest producers. Their La Tourtine bottling comes from a vineyard on the slopes of the property. … Read more
Montgras, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Carménère Reserva 2009
($12, Palm Bay International): Carménère is rapidly becoming Chile’s signature grape and wine. Long confused with Merlot, once the winemakers realized it was not and that it needed extra time to ripen, they started making intriguing wines from it. Montgras’ has a lovely array of leafy notes intertwined with fresh red fruit and a whiff of oak. … Read more
El Portillo, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2009
($9, Palm Bay International): Malbec, a grape and wine that Argentina is seizing as its own, is
“hot.” And with popularity often comes mediocrity in the wine world. But El Portillo manages to pull it off with this bargain-priced example. With surprisingly good character, this Malbec conveys smoky, gamey elements in addition to the expected deep black fruit flavors. … Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2003
($18, Underdog Wine Merchants): The 2003 vintage in Europe was plagued by heat often resulting in over-ripe or baked elements in the wines. Not this one. Fresh and lively, it has uplifting acidity and class that amplifies the wonderful complex combination of fruit and spice. … Read more
Telmo Rodriguez, Rioja (Spain) “LZ” 2008
($15, Vintus): Telmo Rodriguez is one of the “new wave” Spanish winemakers. His family owns the highly regarded Rioja estate, Remurelli, and although he left that estate in the 1990s and set off on his own, he is familiar and at home with making Rioja. … Read more
Remírez de Ganuza, Rioja (Spain) “Fincas de Ganuza Reserva” 2003
($54, Fines Estates from Spain): Remirez de Ganuza is one of the star producers of Rioja. This
bottling, the Fincas de Ganuza, is his second wine, which makes its quality all the more remarkable. A blend of old vine Tempranillo and Garnacha, it has power, dark minerality–almost tarry element–and an appealing meaty element offset by lovely freshness. … Read more
Domaine Lucien Boillot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cherbaudes 2006
($85, Kermit Lynch): Although the Les Cherbaudes vineyard has good neighbors, adjacent to the Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin and just down the hill from Grand Crus Chambertin-Clos de Beze and Mazis-Chambertin, it lacks the prestige of Gevrey’s best Premier Crus, Clos St.… Read more
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2006
($9, Underdog Wine Merchants): 
A more enjoyable $9 wine? I doubt it. Made entirely from Tempranillo–the winemaker, Maria Martinez Sierra, is known locally as “Mrs. Tempranillo”–this traditional mid-weight Rioja delivers a lovely and nicely balanced combination of spice and fruit. Fresh and bright, it has surprising class for a wine of this price.… Read more
Lucien Boillot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): Consumers tend to ignore the 2006 vintage for red Burgundy because it followed–and was overshadowed by–the sensational 2005 vintage. It’s too bad because many fine wines, such as this one, were made that year. Though from a “lowly” Bourgogne Rouge appellation, the wine delivers more than the appellation suggests because it was made by a talented producer using only his–not purchased–grapes. … Read more
Remelluri, Rioja (Spain) 2004
($45, Fine Estates from Spain): Remelluri, a star producer in the region, claims to be the oldest and first estate to bottle Rioja. A typical Rioja blend of mostly (80%) Tempranillo, with small amounts of Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo, this wine comes entirely from the estate’s vineyards. … Read more
Palacios Remondo, Rioja (Spain) “La Montesa” 2006
($22, Folio Wine Company): After his father died in 2000, Alvaro Palacios, one of the current superstars of Spanish wine, returned to run the family estate in Rioja. He replanted the vineyard, modernized the cellar and discarded the traditional nomenclature of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, terms that indicate the duration of aging prior to the wine’s release. … Read more
Bodegas Muga, Rioja (Spain) “Prado Enea” Gran Reserva 2000
($53, Jorge Ordonez): Consumers wishing to drink wines with mature character without
spending a fortune at auction or stocking their own wine cellar can head to their local retailer and pull this one off the shelf. Gran Reserva designation in Rioja means the wine was aged a minimum of 5 years prior to release. … Read more
Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV
($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more
Marcel Lapierre, Vin de France (France) “Raisins Gaulois Gamay IX” NV
($14, Kermit Lynch): Marcel Lapierre, an excellent Morgon producer, has high standards. He believes that his “young” Gamay vines, those under 30 years old–most New World producers consider 30-year old vines “old”–do not produce suitable fruit for his Morgon, so he bottles wine made from those vines under the new appellation called Vin de France. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Barriques” 2008
($20, Kermit Lynch): The word “barriques” (small, 225-liter French oak barrels) on a label of Pinot Blanc, a fairly delicate grape, is bound to dissuade many from tasting this wine. It certainly put me off and I had every intention of not liking the wine. … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc 2008
($14, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Although the vast amount of wine produced in the Rhone Valley is red, consumers should explore the small amount of white wines that originates there because they offer richness and body. The only potential downside of Rhône whites, which Guigal avoids, is that they can come across as heavy if they have insufficient acidity. … Read more
Capçanes, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) “Vall del Calàs” 2006
($20, Eric Solomon Selections): Capçanes ranks with the best wine cooperatives in the world. Working with growers whose vineyards have been in the same family for generations gives them access to old vines. This blend of Merlot (50%), Garnacha (35%) and Tempranillo combines lively fruity with earthy–leafy–flavors.… Read more
Groom, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2008
($27, Winebow): As a former winemaker for Penfolds in charge of Grange, their iconic Shiraz, Daryl Groom should know something about that varietal. And judging by this wine, he certainly does. Ripe and powerful–it is, after all, Barossa Shiraz–it’s not over the top, carrying the stated 14.9% alcohol very well. … Read more
Frederic Mabileau, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil (Loire Valley, France) “Les Rouilleres” 2007
($18, Jon David Headrick Selections): Despite focusing the on the same grape, Cabernet Franc, the wines from the appellation of St. Nicolas de Bourgueil are typically lighter than those from the neighboring appellation of Bourgueil because of the soil, which contains more sand rather than clay and limestone. … Read more
Val de Sil, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Sobre Lias” 2008
($17, Eric Solomon Selections): 
Val de Sil is one of the best producers in Valdeorras, a small (3,300-acre) and up and coming appellation in Spain’s northwest. The primary white grape here, the Godello, has enormous inherent acidity and hence the wines are fresh and lively with a penetrating citrus quality. … Read more
Ruinart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($60, Moët Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, some how fails to garner the attention it deserves. That’s a shame because their Champagne is flat out classy. Made entirely from Chardonnay (the definition of blanc de blancs), this one conveys an elegance and luxurious creaminess usually found only in the so-called “prestige” bottlings. … Read more
Château de Paraza, Minervois (Sud Ouest, France) “Cuvée Spéciale” 2007
($12, Russell Herman World Wines Source): This typical Mediterranean blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre–delivers a pleasant combination of spice and black cherry fruit-like flavors. There’s unusual suaveness in this mid-weight wine. Mild tannins and a lively juiciness makes it an excellent choice for immediate consumption. … Read more
Aimery Sieur d’Arques, Crémant de Limoux (Languedoc, France) “Toques Clouchers” 2006
($20, Merlin Wine): This unconventional blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Mauzac translates into a lovely combination of green apple-like flavors with a subtle creaminess. It’s a classy bright sparkling wine from a leading cooperative in the region with surprising elegance for the price.… Read more
Domaine FL, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Roche aux Moines 2007
($53, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines): Domaine FL is a domaine established within the last decade with the acquisition of most of the vineyards of the well-established grower and producer, Jo Pithon, by Philippe Fournier, head of the French telecommunication company, Afone. … Read more
Domaine de Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) 2009
($13, Skurnik): As a seafood lover, I personally am pleased to see that the prices of Muscadet have risen far slower than their quality. Sure, there are plenty of insipid, hollow Muscadets on the market, but when you find a stellar one like this one from Domaine de Herbauges, you can’t help but wonder why they’re not more expensive. … Read more
Domaine FL, Anjou Blanc (Loire Valley, France) 2007
($18, Daniel Johnnes Selections/Michael Skurnick Wines): This Anjou Blanc shows another expression of the Chenin Blanc grape that is completely different from the domaine’s excellent and distinctive Savennières Roche aux Moines (also reviewed this week). Le Chenin has the more typical profile of a wine made entirely from Chenin Blanc. … Read more
Le Domaine Saget, Pouilly-Fume (Loire Valley, France) 2008
($33, Pasternak Wine Imports): With an engaging counterpoint of creaminess to the pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, this Pouilly-Fumé is beautifully refined and balanced. The classy creaminess does not come from oak because the wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel vats. … Read more
Groom, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc 2009
($17, Winebow): 
Daryl Groom knows a thing or two about winemaking, having made wine in California for two decades. He’s probably best known for being the winemaker at Penfolds in Australia responsible for their iconic Grange in the mid 1980s. But he also was Penfolds’ chief white winemaker, which probably explains why this Sauvignon Blanc is so good. … Read more
Mas Delles Eaux, Languedoc (France) Les Coteaux 2005
($20, Vintex): This seamless blend of Syrah (70%), Grenache (20%) and Mourvèdre delivers an exciting combination of spice and plummy black fruit. It’s a powerful yet not overdone wine. Supple tannins and a fleshy texture make it easy to enjoy now, especially with the start of the grilling season.… Read more
Castelmaure, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) Clos des Vents 2007
($10, Kysela Peres et Fils): 
Castelmaure, a cooperative, is one of the leading producers in Corbières. A typical blend for the region, Carignan (50%), Grenache (35%) and Syrah, this mid-weight red delivers floral notes and spice at an extremely attractive price. … Read more
Domaine Saint Pierre, Corbieres (Languedoc, France) ‘Cuvee Celine’ 2007
($15, Margaux & Co.): Regulations for Corbières mandate that Carignan comprises no more than 50% of the blend to encourage the use of so-called improving varieties. The Cuvée Céline S, a blend of less than one-third Carignan—Syrah (40%) and Grenache account for the remainder—delivers a lovely balance of bright red and black fruit flavors and alluring spicy nuances. … Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” Reserva 2000
($33, Skurnik): Rioja, Spain’s most well-known wine region, is one the rare places 
where the producer ages the wine for the consumer and releases it when it is ready to drink. This decade-old wine is their current release. From one of the region’s traditional–and best–producers, this aged Rioja delivers a panoply of dried fruit flavors, leafy nuances and hints of leather and other non-fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaines Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Château Paul Mas, Clos des Mures 2007
($18, Grape Expectations): The Languedoc, a vast area in France’s southwest, remains confusing to consumers because of the plethora of appellations within the area. It’s worth slogging through the place names because a bevy of well-priced wines, such as this one, originate there. … Read more
Lucien Le Moine, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cazetiers 2007
($108, Vintus): Le Moine, a small négociant–his total production is only 2,500 cases–started just a decade ago, but has already made a name for himself. He works with one or two growers in each appellation focusing on Premier and Grand Crus and producing only a few barrels of each wine. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Laurène” 2005
($75): This is one of America’s best bottlings of Pinot Noir. Thankfully, it’s 
not an overdone powerhouse even thought the Laurène bottling is a selection of their best barrels. (Laurène is the name of the eldest daughter of Veronique Drouhin, who is in charge of the Oregon property). … Read more
Marques de Caceres, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2006
($14, Vineyard Brands): This mid-weight delivers an engaging and balanced combination of bright red fruit-like flavors and winsome vanilla notes. Suave tannins lend structure but allow for immediate enjoyment. It’s light enough to accompany a roast chicken, but has enough stuffing to serve with a steak.… Read more
Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2007
($165, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): This pretty wine shows the grace and beauty of some 2007 red Burgundies. Floral and delicate, it’s long and balanced. But don’t for a minute think that delicate means light. No, this is classic Burgundy: flavor–savory leafy notes–without weight. … Read more
Château Rayas, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) “La Pialade Rouge” 2006
($34, Martine’s Wines, Inc.): Château Rayas is on everybody’s short list of the top producers in the southern Rhône. They are best known for their exquisite Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but you can get a glimmer of their grandeur with this Côtes du Rhône. … Read more
Down Under, South Eastern Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
($3, Down Under Cellars): Yes, three dollars. Let me repeat: three dollars! There is nothing remotely complex about this wine, but it does display pure red berry flavor in a medium-bodied package. No oak, no subtle secondary notes, no layered nuances. … Read more
Gramona, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) “Gessami” 2009
($17, Eric Solomon Selections): This aromatic blend of Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer–it’s like a flower shop in a glass–is deceptive. The nose makes you think it’s going to be sweet, but it’s not. It is exuberant and refreshing. If you could bottle springtime, this would be it. … Read more