($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy. The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. … Read more
All posts by admin
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Argillières 2012
($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): As the name of the vineyard suggests, there’s lots of clay in the soil, which explains the weight and density of the wine. And given its ferrous nuances, there’s likely to be iron in the soil as well. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chanlis 2012
($130, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Parent, currently run by Anne and her sister Catherine Parent, is one of the finest domaines in Pommard. Indeed, this Premier Cru and another one from the domaine, Les Argillières, are a lesson in the wines of Pommard, showing the diversity of the wines from that village. … Read more
Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011
($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert. Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2013
($29, Becky Wasserman Selection): There is an advantage to buying “grower” wines (as opposed to those made by a négociant) with a regional appellation, such as Bourgogne Rouge, which theoretically could come from anywhere within Burgundy. The consumer knows the approximate locale because most growers’ vineyards are located near their winery. … Read more
Château Phélan-Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2008
($54): The wines from the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux are overlooked because they were firm upon release and were followed by the opulent and immediately appealing 2009s and then the refined and stylish 2010s. But, as is always the case, talented producers, such as Château Phélan-Ségur, make excellent wines even in less revered years. … Read more
Château Bourbon La Chapelle, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($17): This, the second wine of Château Castera, a property classified as one of the Cru Bourgeois of Médoc, shows the value of Bordeaux. The current owners acquired Château Castera in1986 from famed Bordeaux merchant and property owner, Alexis Lichine. The last 30 years have seen enormous renovations in the winery and the vineyards that explain the current high level of quality, even of their second wine. … Read more
Château de Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($21): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a category that accounts for less than 5 percent of all the properties in Bordeaux, reinforces the idea that Bordeaux is, indeed, the place for value-packed red wines. Less weighty and fruit-focused than California Merlot, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a beguiling combination of fruitiness and earthiness supported by firm, but not aggressive, structure and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de la Madrière Vieilles Vignes 2013
($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): There’s no better way to learn about the differences between the cru of Beaujolais than by tasting the wines of Stéphane Aviron, one of the appellation’s top producers. The house characteristics — precision and harmony — are apparent in all of them, but each reflects the specific terroir of the region. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): If your tastes run to firmer rather than floral Beaujolais, turn to Aviron’s 2013 Côte de Brouilly. Also made from old vine fruit, it’s stonier — you can almost taste the granite soil — than his Fleurie, but equally attractive. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2013
($60): Power and grace. That sums it up. Mike Grgich is the undisputed master of Chardonnay. He proved that almost 40 years ago at the “Judgment of Paris” tasting when the Chardonnay he made for Chateau Montelena beat out top white Burgundies for first place. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Miljenko’s Selection” 2012
($90): Grgich Hills, world famous for their Chardonnays, also produce stunning Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the first release of a specially selected Cabernet that comes from Austin’s Vineyard, which surrounds the winery in Rutherford. As you’d expect from a Napa Valley Cabernet, it’s full of flavor. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Stagecoach Vineyard 2012
($40): Those consumers looking for “a glass of Merlot” before dinner should avoid this wine. Those, however, who want to see for themselves the complexity that the varietal can deliver should embrace it. There’s a hint of leafiness and earthiness that, frankly, a Merlot-based wine should deliver to accompany and complement the black fruit notes. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2012
($75): Though Dave and Emily Miner founded their eponymous winery less than 20 years ago, they must be included among any list of the top tier of Napa Valley producers, at least judging from their current releases from there. This Cabernet Sauvignon has the captivating — and paradoxical — combination of an almost chewy yet very polished texture. … Read more
Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) “The Oracle” 2011
($90): The packaging — heavy bottle, name starting with “The”– had two strikes against before I even pulled the cork. But, as the saying goes, you can’t judge a book by its cover. This luxurious Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is stunning. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2011
($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines. Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything. Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style. … Read more
Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) “Les Terrasses” 2012
($38, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the winemakers who were responsible for the renaissance of winemaking in this unique region. It’s easy to see why the vines were abandoned over the years: steep slopes of solid rock. A reasonable person could ask, why bother to replant vines here? … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2013
($19, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the most famous and revered names in Spanish winemaking. Alvaro Palacios, along with others, is credited with the revival of the entire Priorat region. Now at his family’s estate in Rioja, he is energizing and reconfiguring how people think about wines from that region. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Villa de Corullon” 2012
($40, Rare Wine Company): Almost a decade ago, Oscar Alegre, export manager at Descendientes de J. Palacios, told me, referring to Bierzo, that “Nobody in Spain thinks quality wine comes from here.” I do not know whether the thinking in Spain has changed, but I can assure you that very high quality, exciting wines come from Bierzo, especially those made by Descendientes de J.… Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2014
($20, Pieropan Wines USA): Sadly, Soave has been one of the most abused names in wine, with many examples in the past — and still some today — that are dilute and without character. What makes it a real shame is how good and exciting authentic Soave, such as this one, can be. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2013
($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): St. Véran, a kissing cousin of Pouilly-Fuissé, proves that the Mâconnais is a place for well-priced Chardonnay-based white wines. Drouhin’s 2013 is more overt than their Rully, showing more fruit and fewer stony elements. Its bright lemony zing makes it a good choice for everyday consumption.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2013
($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Consumers who complain about the high price of Burgundy (count me in, by the way) need to run out and buy this wine. Rully, one of the five appellations within the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to some terrific white wines, made, as in the case with all white Burgundy, from Chardonnay. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013
($83, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Without doubt, Vaudésir is one of the two top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. (The other is Les Clos.) In the hands of a talented producer, such as Drouhin who owns a portion of the vineyard, the wine from Vaudésir delivers a near-magical combination of weight and flinty elegance. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2013
($24, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): In addition to Drouhin’s extensive holdings in Chablis, it buys grapes and must (newly fermenting juice) from growers with whom it has long-standing relationships. This village Chablis is a blend of Drouhin’s grapes with those of other growers. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013
($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there. Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. … Read more
Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Reserve NV
($19, Wilson Daniels): Sparr’s Crémant d’Alsace Brut has a completely different, yet equally attractive, profile compared to their Brut Rosé. Linear and cutting, it delivers an appealing creaminess that balances its firmness. It reminds us of the bargains that non-Champagne sparkling wines can provide. … Read more
Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV
($19, Wilson Daniels): Crémant d’Alsace Rosé must be made entirely from Pinot Noir, which helps explains why they, as a category, are very good. That Pierre Sparr, a top Alsace producer, made this one explains why it’s easy to recommend. Crémant (literally meaning, “creamy”), from Alsace or elsewhere, has about two-thirds the fizz as Champagne, which means they have a rounder texture. … Read more
Rating Wines: Is a 94-Point Wine Better Than an 88-Point Wine?
I hate the 100-point scale for rating wines. Of course, I use it, like the vast majority of wine writers, because it has become the standard scale and because many consumers expect and embrace it. My dislike is really not with 100-point scale itself, but rather the way many consumers use it, which goes something like this: Plug in the name of the latest 90+ point wine on wine-searcher.com… Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon St. Andrews Vineyard 2012
($60, A): Michael Apstein Aug 30, 2015… Read more
MacMurray Estate Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($28): This refined Pinot Noir focuses on ripe, but not jammy, fruit flavors complemented by subtle spice and enough savory nuances to keep it interesting. The mild tannins appear even milder because they are so polished, giving a pleasing overall texture. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($45): Merry Edwards consistently makes a stunning array of Pinot Noirs. Four recent releases from the 2012 vintage continue her streak. This one, a blend from grapes grown in several vineyards in the Russian River Valley, delivers a wonderful tension between ripe fruit flavors and smoky savory nuances. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2012
($54): One of the things I admire about Merry Edwards’s Pinot Noir is that the single vineyard bottlings are different one from the other. The 2012 Flax Vineyard is more muted and more fruit focused at this stage compared to the Klopp Ranch with less savory character. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2012
($60): The 2012 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir really sings. The first whiff announces an exciting savory and earthy component that ultimately balances the ripe, but not jammy, California fruit component. It’s more concentrated than her Russian River Valley bottling, but the increased power is not at the expense of elegance. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2012
($57): At this stage — and I qualify it because this wine, like Merry Edwards’ other Pinot Noir, is still evolving even though bottled — combines attributes of her Klopp Ranch and Flax Vineyard bottlings. Engaging aromatics grab your attention immediately, while a seamless combination of bright fruit flavors and savory nuances hold it. … Read more
Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price. But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine. After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years. … Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): This clean and fresh Pinot Blanc conveys a lovely delicacy, but has sufficient weight — and a subtle creaminess — to complement a light pasta course. Its floral and lacey character also makes it a perfect choice as either a stand-alone aperitif.… Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria. But this is a singularly appealing wine. Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. … Read more
Illuminati, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Campirosa” 2014
($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Though its enticing cherry-red hue says rosé, this is not your standard innocuous one, but rather a rosé masquerading as a light red wine–and a delightful one at that. Fresh and bright, with hints of wild strawberries, the barest hint of a tannic structure and whiff of bitterness in the finish remind you it was made from a light pressing of the Montepulciano grape. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($69, Kobrand): Wines from Chambolle-Musigny, one of the top villages in the Côte de Nuits, are some of the most sought after in Burgundy, which explains why even a village wine, such as this one, commands a healthy price. Jadot’s 2012 is a great example and demonstrates why wines from that village are so popular. … Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Toussaints 2012
($45, Kobrand): Wines from premier cru vineyards in from Beaune, especially from top producers, such as Louis Jadot, while not cheap, remain a relative bargain for Burgundy. This Toussaints, from one of their domaines (Domaine Gagey), delivers more weight and power than you’d expect from Beaune and reflects the character of the 2012 vintage.… Read more
Finca el Origen, Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontes Reserva 2014
($11): Just as Malbec is Argentina’s signature red grape and wine, Torrontés, is becoming that country’s signature white. Very floral, with even a glimmer of honeysuckle, Finca el Origen’s represents one end of the Torrontés style spectrum. Analogous to many Muscat, it’s a bit deceptive because, while the aromas suggest that sweetness will follow, it doesn’t. … Read more
Sommeliers: Love Them or Hate Them?
Somms–and oh, how I hate that word–are the newest darlings of the wine world. Sommeliers have been anointed the opinion leaders, directing trends in wine consumption, replacing, in many instances, the voices of established wine critics such as Robert Parker, Jr.… Read more
Artesa, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Albarino 2014
($28): There’s not a lot of Albariño, a white grape that makes an aromatic and energetic wine in Rías Baixas (an area in northwest Spain’s Galicia area), grown in California. Indeed, at last count (2013) there were just over 200 acres of the grape planted in the entire state. … Read more
Clayhouse, Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard “Show Pony” 2012
($40): Petite Sirah is, of course, misnamed because there’s nothing petite about it. And that’s its major attraction and, simultaneously, its major flaw. Many Petite Sirah can be overwhelming — boisterous and alcoholic and nothing else. Clayhouse Estate is robust and intense, yes, but it is balanced and not overdone considering the grape. … Read more
ZD Wines, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($55): Despite being one of the pioneer wineries in Napa Valley, ZD Wines, established in 1969 and named after the founders, Norman deLeuze and Gino Zepponi, flies under the radar of many consumers. Originally focused on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Carneros, they added a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon a decade or so later. … Read more
Fiuza, do Tejo (Portugal) Alvarinho 2014
($12, Gabriella Wines): In Portugal, Albariño, Spain’s popular aromatic white grape, is Alvarinho. It’s a little odd to see the grape in the southern part of Portugal — the do Tejo appellation is the area bordering the Tejo, a.k.a. Tagus River not far from Lisbon — because it’s best known as the grape for the mouth-tingling Vinho Verde from Portugal’s north. … Read more
Gregorina, Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore (Emilia-Romagna, Italy) 2012
($15, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Sangiovese, Italy’s most widely planted red grape, is held in high esteem in Tuscany where it is the core for Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the only grape allowed for Brunello di Montalcino. Somehow, its glow fades as it hits the Emilia Romagna border, which is a shame because it can produce great value wine there, as Gregorina demonstrates. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo () “Riparosso” 2013
($13, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Talk about charming rusticity. This Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a cut above your basic “pizza wine,” imparting a lovely combination of cherry-like notes and lively acidity. Fresh and vigorous, it’s just what you need for an “everyday” wine for pasta bathed in a garlicky tomato sauce.… Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria, Italy) “Collepiano” 2009
($60, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Montefalco Sagrantino, similar to Barolo and Taurasi, can be an impenetrable wine when young because of substantial tannins. The tannins in this massive 2009 from Arnaldo-Caprai, perhaps the leading producer in the DOCG, are still very evident, even at six years of age, but they are not aggressive or astringent. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2012
($20, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the great names in the DOCG of Montefalco Sagrantino, also makes an easy to recommend Montefalco Rosso, a junior varsity version of that DOCG. Whereas regulations for Montefalco Sagrantino require exclusive use of Sagrantino, winemakers are permitted to blend other grapes in Montefalco Rosso, which makes it a far more approachable wine. … Read more