($40): 
A rich wine, no doubt a result of the vintage and the inclusion of Muscadelle and a healthy amount of Sauvignon Gris in the blend. Creamy and glossy, it has developed nicely after a decade, retaining a surprising vigor.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
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Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2013
($34): There’s magic in this wine. Fresh and precise, it conveys citrus notes and engaging bit of spice. It maintains plenty of richness, which is buttressed by freshness and vivacity. The pungency of Sauvignon Blanc is more apparent here since the proportion of that variety has been increased at the expense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2014
($35): 
The 2014 vintage was the first that came entirely from Lagrange’s new plantings. Compared to the 2013, the 2014 is slightly more intense without losing any elegance or precision. It conveys a marvelous combination of floral notes, grapefruit rind-like punch and even a hint of white pepper. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): Let’s hope that this example of lighter, fresher and more vibrant Chardonnay from California is truly here to stay. There’s still plenty of richness, but the overall impression is lightness and vivacity. The winery attributes the character of this stylish Chardonnay to their vineyard’s location near the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. … Read more
Dominus Estate, Napa Valley (California) 2011
($150): 
Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982. The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot. Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Quinta dos Murças, Douro (Portugal) “Assobio” 2012
($14, Aidil Wines and Liquors): This wine shows precisely why blended reds from Portugal will be taking the market by storm in the coming years. A big, chunky red, with round, mild softish tannins, it’s similar in size to Malbec, but with far more complexity and interest. … Read more
Quinta dos Murças, (Portugal) Reserva 2010
($36, Aidil Wines and Liquors): 
The Assobio and Reserva are my first experience with this producer. They won’t be my last. Though more than twice the price of their Assobio, the Reserva from Quinta dos Murças is worth it. It combines ripe — but not sweet — fruit with herbal nuances and a delectable earthiness. … Read more
Babich, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2013
($18): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand, though famous for its unique and electrifying style of Sauvignon Blanc, is not a one-trick pony, as this Pinot Noir clearly shows. A lighter style of Pinot Noir, it delivers a delightful combination of red fruit, savory notes and spice. … Read more
Amisfield, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2012
($39): 
Central Otago, an area on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is making a name for itself as a place for stylish Pinot Noir. Despite its more southerly locale (which should be cooler in the Southern Hemisphere), the Pinot Noirs from Central Otago are riper and more powerful than those for other areas of New Zealand, such as Marlborough and Martinborough because the area is more inland with fewer maritime influences. … Read more
Agricola Querciabella, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Camartina” 2010
($140): 
Founded only in 1974, Querciabella has leapt to the top tier of Tuscan producers, making an exceptional range of both red and white wines. Camartina, a blend of roughly 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Sangiovese, is their flagship red. It’s always a majestic wine, but the 2010 is even more extraordinary than usual. … Read more
Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011
($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne. As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all. … Read more
Samuel Billaud, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2013
($41, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
The 2013 vintage lacks the reputation of the great ones, 2010 and 2012, in Chablis. But consumers should not overlook it. Talented producers, such as Samuel Billaud, make excellent wines even in what is often called “difficult” years. … Read more
Maison Lou Dumont, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($60, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
Koji Nakada, a former Japanese sommelier, created Maison Lou Dumont along with his wife in 2000. Though they now own a few acres of vineyards, most of their wine comes from the time-honored Burgundian tradition of being a négociant — buying grapes from growers, vinifying, aging and bottling the wine themselves. … Read more
Maison Lou Dumont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012
($29, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
A wonderful Bourgogne Rouge, this wine demonstrates the appeal of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, combining the fruitiness of the variety with the savory character that must come from the locale. Its impact belies its delicacy. A charming rusticity makes it an excellent choice for a roast chicken with an aromatic mushroom sauce. … Read more
Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006
($80): 
Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times. Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.) … Read more
Bisol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) “Crede” NV
($25, Vias Imports): Prosecco is all the rage these days and consumers can find them at for $10 a bottle. So why pay more for Bisol’s? Because it is a cut above most of them delivering firmness combined with a flowery aspect. … Read more
Château Magdelaine, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($102): Château Magdelaine, one of only two properties in St. Emilion owned by the Pomerol-focused Moueix family, has always been one of my favorites from that appellation. The 2010 is particularly appealing with a glorious and impeccably balanced mixture of floral, fruity and mineral components wrapped in fine firm tannins. … Read more
Murphy-Goode, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($26): 
This is the style of Cabernet Sauvignon that made California famous for that variety. It’s balanced and discreet, with haunting herbal influences that complement the ripe fruit flavors. Not overdone, over extracted or over oaked, the multifaceted flavors of Cabernet come through. … Read more
Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sur le Sentier du Clou 2013
($58): 
Domaine Marc Colin, now run by his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline, is a star producer in Burgundy, in general and in St. Aubin, in particular. The domaine produces eight different–and distinct–premier crus from St. Aubin, a village that is slightly off the beaten track but lies adjacent to Chassagne Montrachet. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2013
($24, Louis Latour USA): 
Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one. Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé. With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. … Read more
How Women Transformed Champagne
Dom Perignon, step aside. Although that monk is often credited with “inventing” Champagne, in reality, the women of the region made it what it is today.… Read more
All Smiles in Burgundy
There were smiles all around Burgundy–at least before the horrific events in Paris on Friday, November 13. And with good reason: The 2014 whites are stunning. And overall, yields in 2014 were closer to normal–70 to 80 percent–after four short harvests, though, as Frédéric Barnier, winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, noted, “We are still looking for a full [normal] crop.” … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) “L’Ermitage” 2006
($46): 
Roederer Estate is my favorite California sparkling wine producer. Their quality can be traced to the philosophy of the Roederer Champagne house — the mother ship — and their ownership in Anderson Valley of sufficient vineyards to supply their needs. … Read more
Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “Malleous” 2011
($45, Moro Brothers): Moro’s 2011 Ribera del Duero is impressive because of its suaveness despite its size. Focusing more on mineraly or savory flavors than fruity ones, it has an attractive firmness without being hard. Some might complain about the amount of oak flavors showing at this stage, but they convey an alluring creaminess. … Read more
Bodegas Sepa 21, Castilla y León (Spain) “Hito” 2014
($16): Full disclosure: I gave this wine extra points for value, because it would be hard to do better at the price. It delivers a marvelous combination of black cherry-like fruitiness — not too much — and a slate-like minerality. The winemaking team has resisted the temptation to over extract the flavors and tannins or mask them with oak. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti Rufinà Reserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2011
($19): The Rufinà subzone of Chianti, the vast area between Florence and Siena, is not as well known as the Chianti Classico subzone. Indeed, the name is often confused with Ruffino, a well-known Tuscan producer. The Rufinà zone is home to an array of top producers, including Frescobaldi, a name that is iconic in Italian wine. … Read more
Le Caniette, Rosso Piceno DOC (Marche, Italy) “Morellone” 2008
($36, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): A blend of Montepulciano (70%) and Sangiovese, Le Caniette’s Morellone has weight and convey an alluring dark cherry fruit quality. Nicely polished, it retails a hint of charming rusticity in the finish, which frankly, adds to its appeal. … Read more
Concha Y Toro, Alto Maipo (Chile) Puente Alto Vineyard “Don Melchor” 2011
($125): For decades, Don Melchor has traditionally been Chile’s emblematic wine. Despite competition from other top Chilean producers with their top Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, Don Melchor remains a Chilean icon. The 2011 shows why: Enticing, hard to define aromas capture your attention immediately. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($15): Although the vast majority of Sauvignon Blanc coming from New Zealand is produced in the Marlborough regions, other areas of that country make excellent examples with slightly different character. This one, for example, from North Canterbury achieves a lovely balance by being a touch broader with fractionally less grassy pungency. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($21, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): 
New Zealand is clearly known for their electrifying Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine shows that country has vinous diversity. From a Bordeaux blend — Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec — Craggy Range has produced a gorgeous wine. … Read more
Pierre Gonon, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($53, Kermit Lynch): 
Wow. You don’t normally expect this kind of power and finesse from a wine from St. Joseph. But some producers are now demonstrating that St. Joseph can be a locale for great wines. Though it’s a long narrow appellation on the west bank of the Rhône, a portion of it at its southern end sits directly across from Hermitage and indeed, the granite rock in which the vines are planted is identical to the soil across the river. … Read more
Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines. This is one them. Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($24, Vintus Wines): Guigal is one of, if not the, star producer in the Rhône Valley. Their wines, especially their single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turgue, which now command hundreds of dollars upon release, have shown the world the grandeur and finesse of Rhône wines. … Read more
Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013
($20, T. Edward Wines): Yes, you read that correctly — white Beaujolais. Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation. And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Grand Cru La Grande Rue (Burgundy, France) 2011
($387, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): 
La Grande Rue, squeezed between La Tache on one side and La Romanée, Romanée Conti and Romanée St Vivant on the other, is the least renown (and hence, the least expensive) of the famed Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanée. … Read more
Domaine Dominique Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) 2012
($92, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): 
The wine comes from two separate premier cru vineyards, which are close to each other, but are distinct. Yields were so low in 2012–which helps to explain the high prices for that excellent vintage–that Gallois had to combine juice from the two vineyards to make a manageable quantity of wine.… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2012
($26): This stylish Chardonnay shows restraint without sacrificing flavor. It’s plenty creamy, yet crisp. It manages to be full flavored without being heavy or ponderous. In short, it’s long and refined — and at a good price.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 3, 2015… Read more
Zuani, Collio Bianco (Friuli, Italy) “Vigne” 2013
($23): This charming white is an unusual blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. It’s a blend that somehow works, delivering a subtle whiff of white flowers, melon-like nuances and crisp balancing acidity that add vibrancy. Overall, it has a softer, gentler profile that makes it work equally well before or with dinner.… Read more
Domaine Montirius, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Clos” 2010
($26): 
This is a classic example of Vacqueyras, one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village. (Châteauneuf-du-Pape is likely the best known of the southern Rhône cru.) … Read more
Les Dauphins, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Réserve 2013
($11, Monsieur Touton Selections): Côtes du Rhône, a vast appellation in the southern Rhone Valley, produces both well priced satisfying red wines and mediocre ones. This one, in the former category, shows why the appellation remains so popular. A “bistro wine” at its best, it’s refreshing, fruity and slightly spicy, but not heavy.… Read more
André Jacquart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Brut Experience” NV
($55, Esprit du Vin): 
It’s unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne. This one is stunning and not to be missed. The creamy elegance and precision for which Chardonnay-based Champagne is renown is immediately apparent. Of course is doesn’t hurt that all the grapes come from their vineyards located in either Premier or Grand Cru villages on the Côte des Blancs, the best area in Champagne for Chardonnay. … Read more
Inconceivable, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): A cutesy name and equally unconventional label makes me skeptical. But it’s important to taste. Here’s a clean and bright Chardonnay with a slightly creamy element and a hint of pepper-like spice that adds brightness. Thankfully, restrained, but not vapid, this is a refreshingly vibrant wine. … Read more
Domaine de Fondrèche, Ventoux Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2014
($17, Robert Kacher Selection): Ventoux, an appellation in the Southern Rhône Valley, is known more for red wines than for whites. This wine changes that impression immediately. It’s crisp and clean, with a hint of white flowers and none of the heaviness frequently seen in southern Rhône whites. … Read more
New Zealand Wines: An Update
Although still focused primarily on Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand is showing a lot of vinous diversity these days, both with that variety and with other grapes. In the cellars, winemakers are branching out by using oak barrels for fermentation and aging of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Frei Brothers, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($27): It’s almost impossible to find this complexity in Pinot Noir at this price. Not that $27 is inexpensive, but it is for Pinot Noir, a whine whose quality tanks quickly as yields go up in an effort to keep costs down. … Read more
La Crema, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): This Russian River Pinot Noir is fresh and vibrant with supple tannins, which create a suave texture. Savory elements balance the fresh fruit notes. Not overdone, this Pinot Noir is an excellent choice for current drinking.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2015… Read more
Niner Wine Estates, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2012
($35): This well-priced Pinot Noir delivers toasty black fruit notes complemented by savory nuances. It’s a hefty Pinot Noir, to be sure, but it is not over the top. A hint of sweetness and heat from alcohol peaks out in finish. … Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($35): You taste the Carneros pedigree immediately. Lively and bright, red fruit flavors dominate but don’t overwhelm. The unique character of Pinot Noir — flavor without weight — is apparent. If only the heat of alcohol didn’t peek out in the finish it would get higher marks.… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Meunier Estate Vineyard “Bacchus Collection” 2013
($40): 
The wines from Bouchaine, the oldest continuously operating winery in the Carneros District, according to their website, fly under the radar. I certainly can’t explain it given the stature of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which show why Carneros is a prized area for those varietals. … Read more
Reata, California (United States) Pinot Noir “Three County” 2013
($30): The grapes come from Monterey, Sonoma and San Benito Counties — hence the name of this cuvee. It’s a sweet and lush expression of Pinot Noir ready to drink now.
87 Michael Apstein Oct 20, 2015… Read more