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Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2013

($68): One of the things I love about Migration’s Pinot Noirs is that their vineyard designation is not a marketing tool, but rather reflects where the grapes are grown.  Take this one from the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  Riper fruit flavors dominate with fewer savory elements compared to their 2013 Dutton Ranch bottling (previously reviewed). Read more

Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Abruzzo, Italy) “Riparosso” 2014

($15, Montcalm Wine Imports): A steal, this wine is in the “buy it by the case” category. Always a good buy, the 2014 vintage is especially noteworthy because Illuminati made no riserva that year.  Grapes from their 45-year old vineyard that usually go into the riserva wound up in the Riparosso, imparting extra density, concentration and refinement.Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($18): Dry Creek Vineyard consistently makes an array of easy-to-recommend fine wines.  This Sauvignon Blanc is one of them.  The winemaking team incorporated a touch of Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, two “relatives” of Sauvignon Blanc, into the blend.  Those varieties add a bit of depth and weight that balances the grassiness and edginess of Sauvignon Blanc.  Read more

Cambria Estate Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir “Benchbreak” 2013

($25): This could be the best-value California Pinot Noir on the market.  Full disclosure:  I’ve not tasted them all, but I’m waiting to find a better one at the price.  It has the alluring ying-yang-like savory-fruity combination.  The emphasis is on the savory earthy nuances that Pinot Noir can transmit when it’s not overdone. Read more

Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2013

($225): It’s worth repeating:  Will Berliner, winemaker and owner of Cloudburst, his tiny estate in Western Australia’s Margaret River, turns out consistently superb Chardonnay, in addition to his stellar Cabernet Sauvignon, despite his lack of formal winemaking training. There’s a Burgundian Grand Cru sensibility about this 2013 Chardonnay:  Engaging toastiness that is replaced by minerality and fruitiness as it sits in the glass and blossoms. Read more

Siepi, a True Super Tuscan

Today, the term Super Tuscan has become almost meaningless because its widespread use encompasses anything from expensive wine made entirely from Sangiovese to low-end blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with Sangiovese.

The original Super Tuscan moniker referred to innovative wines, blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, or those varieties with Tuscany’s traditional Sangiovese. … Read more

Surprising Portugal

Although my predictions lack the consistency of Nate Silver’s, I will stick my neck out and say that Portuguese wines will be the next “hot” item in the US wine market even though pronunciation issues may be an impediment.  After spending a week in Portugal judging at the 2016 Concurso Vinhos de Portugal (Wines of Portugal Challenge), tasting a vast array of Portuguese wines (including Port, of course, but also a bevy of hearty reds and refreshing whites) and discussing them with Portuguese winemakers and wine judges from around the world, I came away thinking that Portuguese wines are poised to take-off, much as Italian wines did 30-plus years ago.Read more

MacRostie Winery, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2013

($40): One of the reasons I admire MacRostie’s Chardonnays is that their single vineyard offerings are sufficiently different from each other to make separate bottlings actually meaningful. They are unique wines.  Contrast that approach with wineries whose “single vineyard” bottlings reflect a marketing strategy, not a difference in site.Read more