($20): I only became acquainted with Frédéric Berne’s Beaujolais during my annual trip to Burgundy last November. Based on my tasting of his 2014s, I would try anything he makes. He, like many of the top producers in Beaujolais, is raising the bar in that region by identifying vineyards within the cru (the 10 towns that produce the most distinctive wines) that have unique terroir and are capable of making superior wines. … Read more
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Maison Joseph Drouhin, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Hospices de Belleville 2015
($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Beaujolais is clearly a hot area. Major Beaune-based Burgundy négociants are investing there, either by buying properties, such as Jadot with Château des Jacques, or, as with Drouhin, collaborating with the Domaine des Hospices de Belleville to produce and market their wines. … Read more
Frédéric Berne, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, France) Les Terrasses 2015
($20): Wines from Chiroubles, another one of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are typically fruitier and less firm than those from Morgon. Berne’s 2015 Chiroubles from Les Terrasses, one of the top spots in that village, is exuberant without being over the top. … Read more
Carmel Road, Monterey (California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): A delightful, well-priced Pinot Noir is hard to find, so I was especially pleased to sample this one. Light-bodied with intriguing herbal earthy flavors and mild tannins, it’s perfect for current consumption with a veal chop or roast chicken with mushrooms. … Read more
Carmel Road, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2013
($35): A bigger and riper version of their delightful — and easy to recommend — straight Monterey Pinot Noir, Carmel Road’s Panorama Vineyard bottling focuses more on the sweet fruity aspect of the grape. In the process, they lose delicacy and complexity than Pinot Noir offers. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Oporto (Portugal) 10 Year-Old Tawny Porto NV
($31): Along with winter, at least as measured by the calendar, comes the Port season. A high-quality 10-year-old Tawny, such as this one from Noval, is a perfect way to start the season and end a meal. Tawnies are unfussy: Open the bottle, pour and enjoy, then re-cork and repeat the next day. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Rivera Liguria di Ponente DOC (Liguria, Italy) Pigato 2015
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though Pigato is the same as the Vermentino grape, according to DNA analysis, it has a different flavor profile when transformed into wine, presumably because of where it’s planted. Indeed, Lunae’s 2015 Pigato, though equally enjoyable as their Vermentino, is different. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010
($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.” But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling St. Andrews Vineyard 2014
($20): It could be the screw cap closure, but whatever, this wine benefits enormously from 15 minutes of aeration before consumption. Then it sings. Dry and cutting, it has the enamel-cleansing quality of first-rate Riesling. A firm racy edge makes it better with food, such as spiced Asian or Indian fare, as opposed to a stand along aperitif.… Read more
Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2011
($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum. They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor. The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) “Marsiliana” 2012
($30): I’m always skeptical of a Cabernet-based Super Tuscan wine, even from a top producer, such as Principe Corsini, because Cabernet can overwhelm Tuscan identity. No such problem with Marsiliana, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, despite being aged in new small French oak barrels. … Read more
Is It Terroir or National Origin? Burgundy in Oregon
What’s more important in determining wine quality—terroir, or the nationality of the winemaker? Almost everyone agrees on the importance of terroir, the idea (best exemplified in Burgundy) that where the grapes grow is critical in determining the character of a wine. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Cuvée POM” 2013
($48): J. Lohr makes three Bordeaux-like Cuvées, “PAU,” “St. E” and “POM” inspired by the blend typical for those appellations, Pauillac, St. Estephe and Pomerol. The 2013 Cuvée POM is a successful blend of primarily Merlot (84%) filled out by Malbec (8%) and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Cellars Uinó, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha “Perlat” 2014
($12, Monsieur Touton): Montsant is sometimes referred to as a “little brother” appellation to its more famous and expensive neighbor, Priorat. There’s nothing little brother about this wine. Waves of aromas pour from the glass predicting pleasure on the palate. It’s wonderfully dense, dark and ripe, yet does not go overboard and finishes with a subtle and paradoxical succulent bitterness. … Read more
Bodegas Virgen del Agulia-Paniza, Cariñena (Spain) Garnacha Vina Vejas de Paniza 2012
($14, Vinaio Imports): It’s curious — and perhaps confusing — that the primary grape of the Cariñena region is Garnacha and not Cariñena (a.k.a., Carignan in French and Carignano in Italian, and generally spelled “Carignane” in the U.S.A.). That said, there’s nothing confusing about this wine — it’s terrific. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2014
($35, Louis Latour USA): This is what everyone is looking for in white Burgundy — an affordable overachiever. Three elements come together in a “perfect storm” to create this overachiever. First, there’s the village itself. Pernand-Vergelesses lies “behind” the hill of Corton (to the west) and is often overlooked since it is hidden as you drive the main road of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Corton Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($190, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): White Corton is a rarity, since most producers label it Corton-Charlemagne. Indeed, Anne Parent, who runs the eponymous domaine with her sister, Catherine, says she legally could label hers as Corton-Charlemagne, but since it comes from the east-facing portion of the hill in the Ladoix-Serrigny commune, she prefers to label it simply…Corton. … Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Krug Champagne Grande Cuvée Brut
Krug’s Grande Cuvée is like no other non-vintage Champagne, having more in common with other houses prestige bottlings, both in price and quality. Most Champagne aficionados know that Krug ferments all of its still wines in small oak casks, the only Champagne house to do so.… Read more
Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année Brut 1996
Bollinger produces a bold style of Champagne that combines power and elegance. The power in this well-aged—but at 20-years of age, still very much alive—Champagne comes from the blends that emphasizes Pinot Noir (about 2/3rds) with Chardonnay filling out the rest, and the primary fermentation that occurs in oak casks.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc, 2010
With about 17 acres, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns roughly half of this premier cru vineyard, which is located at the southern end of Beaune, bordering Pommard. The vineyard takes its name from the honey-bees (mouches à miel, literally honey flies) that loved the warmth of the site.… Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves, “Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus,” 2009
Bouchard, one of Burgundy’s top producers, own this 10-acre plot, which is situated in the heart of Beaune Grèves, an 80-acre Premier Cru vineyard, which itself is one of the top Premier Cru vineyards in Beaune, a town that lacks Grand Cru vineyards.… Read more
Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru, Le Vaillon, “Cuvée Guy Moreau,” 2014
The label predicts great things for this wine—Christian Moreau Père et Fils (not be confused with J. Moreau & Fils) is a top-notch producer and 2014 was a great year for Chablis—and the wine delivers them. Cuvée Guy Moreau comes from a 2.5-acre plot planted in an ideal portion of the vineyard by Guy Moreau in 1934.… Read more
A Game-Changing Development in Beaujolais
Everyone knows THE grape in Beaujolais is Gamay. Ok, a little Chardonnay, which finds its way into Beaujolais Blanc or even Bourgogne Blanc, is planted in the region as well. But now, a game-changer could transform and revitalize the region–a major Burgundian producer has started planting and making wine from Pinot Noir in Beaujolais. … Read more
Castello delle Regine, Umbria IGP (Italy) “Selezione del Fondatore” 2007
($45, Golden Ram Imports/Blue Sky Group): Castello delle Regine will be the producer to focus the light on Umbria as a source of grand wine. Their Selezione del Fondatore, which to my mind is their flagship wine, comes exclusively from 50+ year-old Sangiovese vines that the owners found on the property when they purchased it in the 1990s. … Read more
Sébastien Brunet, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “La Rocherie” Brut NV
($21, Savio Soares Selections): Though Vouvray is usually thought of as a fruity, zesty still white wine, plenty of sparkling wine comes from that appellation as well. The Chenin Blanc-based bubbly is dry and cutting, not exactly the profile you’d necessarily expect from that usually fruity grape. … Read more
Château des Quarts, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Clos des Quarts 2013
($70, Becky Wasserman Selection): Seventy bucks for Pouilly-Fuissé? That’ll get your attention, but so will the quality of this wine. It’s a joint venture between two Burgundy super-stars, Dominique Lafon from Meursault and Olivier Merlin from the Mâconnais, who purchased the vineyard together. … Read more
Olivier Merlin, Macon Blanc (Burgundy, France) La Roche Vineuse 2013
($21, Becky Wasserman Selection): I first became aware of Domaine Merlin’s wine when I tasted — no, drank — his stunning Moulin-à-Vent in a Paris bistro. I’ve been a fan ever since. It turns out that the Domaine makes stunning white wine as well. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2014
($49, Becky Wasserman Selection): The producers in Marsannay have petitioned the authorities to elevate some of their vineyards, all of which now are lumped together and sold under the village name, to Premier Cru. Clos du Roy is a prime candidate for promotion as this wine demonstrates. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) La Chapître 2012
($57, Becky Wasserman Selection): Sylvain Pataille, a terrific producer based in Marsannay, produces this Bourgogne rouge from vines that average about 35 years of age. Indeed, a third of the vines in this 2.5-acre vineyard date from 1950s. The old vines explain the gorgeous complexity and density you rarely fine in Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Umbria: Italy’s Forgotten Region (Until Now)
Ask consumers to name their favorite Italian wine regions and you’re sure to hear Tuscany and Piedmont. Italian white wine enthusiasts no doubt would add Friuli and Trentino to the list. And Campania would certainly be on most people’s short list. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) 2014
($12, Louis Latour USA): Though the appellation is just Saint Bris, the wines are often referred to as Sauvignon St. Bris, incorporating the name of the grape into the appellation. Saint Bris, located just southwest of Chablis, is an anomaly in Burgundy because it is the only area where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed, indeed, required. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2014
($135, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, the largest owner of the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne, consistently makes superb examples of that wine. They show their glory with a decade of bottle age. I’ve not tasted all producers’ Corton Charlemagne so I can’t say Latour is “the best,” but for the price, there’s nobody even close. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Louis Latour USA): The 2014 vintage was superb in Chablis and the rest of Burgundy for white wines. Prices have nowhere to go but up because of the short crop in 2016, so I advise friends to buy as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can afford. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2014
($21, Louis Latour USA): With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, it’s always a delight to find authentic red Burgundy, especially from the revered Côte de Nuits, that is affordable. Marsannay, the most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits, is practically a suburb of Dijon, resulting in a constant battle between vineyards and suburban housing. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($55, Louis Latour USA): Village Burgundians, those wines made from vineyards that are not classified as Premier or Grand Cru, are often overlooked. Burgundy collectors typically scramble to buy the wines from those more revered appellations. Wise consumers, however, should look for village wines from top growers or négociants, such as this one. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Though Drouhin’s Roserock vineyard, their new one in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, is focused on Pinot Noir, eleven of the 111 planted acres are devoted to Chardonnay. Laurent Drouhin notes the vineyard is at a higher elevation compared to theirs in the Dundee Hills and describes the soil as pebbly. … Read more
Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Roserock Vineyard 2014
($35): Maison Drouhin, the superb Burgundy-based négociant, was the first French firm to invest in Oregon when they purchased vineyards in the Dundee AVA of the Willamette Valley 20+ years ago. Over the subsequent two decades, they’ve produced a very impressive array of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from their Dundee vineyards. … Read more
Presqu’ile Vineyards, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Syrah 2013
($35): The team at Presqu’ile clearly knows what they are doing. First, I tasted — and loved — their Chardonnay, reinforcing the idea that Santa Maria Valley is a good locale for that grape. Then I tasted — and loved — their Sauvignon Blanc, so I figured they were talented white wine producers. … Read more
Louis Martini, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($38): Louis Martini is one of the great names — a true icon — of California wine. Their wines continue to enhance the Martini reputation even after the winery was acquired by Gallo, a company that had the good sense to maintain the winery’s integrity and not turn it into brand. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2013
($54): There’s Merlot…and then there’s the real Merlot. Put this 2013 Duckhorn Merlot in the latter category. This should not be surprising. After all, it was Duckhorn with their Three Palms Merlot that showed the heights that this varietal could achieve in Napa. … Read more
Louis Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($34): Though distinctly different from Martini’s Napa Valley bottling, it is equally appealing, perhaps because it is so different. This Cabernet is more floral and “pretty,” less mineraly and lacking the black olive note of its neighbor from Napa. It still manages to combine a mouth-watering savory component to mixture of fruit notes. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2015
($31, Montcalm Wine Imports): I raved about the 2014 vintage of this wine, Lunae Bosoni’s flagship white made entirely from Vermentino. The 2015 is similarly stunning. Possibly the richest Vermentino I’ve ever had, it still retains lightness and vivacity with an invigorating zippy finish. … Read more
Mas des Bressades, Costières de Nîmes (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Tradition” 2015
($15, Robert Kacher Selections): Costières de Nîmes, one of the lesser-known subregions of the greater Rhône Valley, lies on the right (western) bank of the river. Wines from here lack the popularity — and price — of the more upscale subregions, such as Vacqueyras or Cairanne. … Read more
Lucien Crochet, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chêne” 2014
($30, Neal Rosenthal): This is the real deal. Sancerre has become so popular that some producers over crop to keep up with demand. As a result, many of the wines carrying that appellation are uninteresting, tasting like a Sauvignon from, well, anywhere. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules “Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot” 2013
($90, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a “grower,” owning vineyards under a variety of Domaine names, such as Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot (i.e., the heirs of Louis Jadot), throughout the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Sicily: Diverse Land, Diverse Wines
The wine culture of Sicily–a little bit of everything–mirrors that island’s unique character. Over the centuries, Sicily has been invaded and colonized by the Greeks, the Arabs, the Spanish, and the French, to name just a few. These diverse cultures have all have left their unique marks on the island–Catholic churches built by Arab workers look like mosques from the outside. … Read more
Presqu’Ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($42): Presqu’ile seemingly does everything right. Take this Pinot Noir, for example–a lacey combination of red fruit flavors and spice. It’s not overdone in a “Pinot Syrah” style, but rather captures the subtleties of the variety as it dances across the palate.… Read more
Presqu’Ile, San Luis Obispo County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Steiner Creek Vineyard 2014
($48): Presqu’ile buys grapes from the Phelan family who owns the Steiner Creek Vineyard, showing, once again, that consumers should not automatically shun wines that are not “estate.” This Pinot Noir is a notch–or two–above their very good Santa Maria bottling with more engaging aromatics and greater depth. … Read more
Spottswoode, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($186): Stunning is a word that leaps to mind after tasting this wine. Weighing in at less than 14 percent stated-alcohol, it dazzles with its elegance, harmony and length, not shear power. Though it has plenty of that, too. Paradoxically, almost, its power is restrained and not flamboyant. … Read more