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Migration, Sta. Rita Hills (California) Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard 2015

($68):  Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. Read more

Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Running Creek 2015

($68):  This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character.  Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.Read more

Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2016

($40):  Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir.  Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.Read more

Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015

($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015.  The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites.  Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. Read more

Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017

($25):  Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.”  A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate.  Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Read more

Awful Weather in Burgundy, But Some Awesome Wines from 2016

Usually it is perfect weather during the growing season that results in exceptional wines.  Think 2005, 2009 or 2015 in Burgundy.  Those “ideal weather” vintages produced excellent wines almost across the board.  In 2016, the capriciousness of Nature was apparent:  Hail ravaged some vineyards, destroying the entire crop, but leaving a neighboring vineyard untouched.  Read more

Buena Vista, Sonoma County (California) “The Count” Red Wine 2015

($20):  If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there.  Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. Read more

Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2016

($24):  Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel.  So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this.  I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point.  It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel.  Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal.  Read more

Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Confluence Vineyard 2015

($84):  Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity.  Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh.  A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. Read more

Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Split Rail Vineyard 2015

($84):  Goldeneye’s single vineyard bottlings actually reflect the difference in sites.  Theirs is not a marketing ploy.  This one, for example, is denser and more concentrated, conveying more black rather than red fruit, compared to one from The Narrows Vineyard.  Yet it still conveys the delicacy that makes Pinot Noir so alluring. Read more

Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014

($45):  Unlike a Riserva in Italy, Reserve on a label on a California wine has no legal meaning.  A winery can, and sometimes does, label their entire production, all several million bottles, as “reserve.”  Not so with Rodney Strong.  In this case, the winemaker selects the best barrels in the cellar and blends them to create a Reserve bottling. Read more