($25, The Winebow Group): The Malbec from La Consulta could redefine the image of wine made from that grape. Not just big and ripe, this Malbec is lively and racy with appealing smoky nuances. Though it displays Malbec’s smooth tannins, it is far fresher compared to Lunlunta. … Read more
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Bodega Catena Zapata, Maipu (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec Lunlunta 2015
($25, The Winebow Group): Catena, as the producer is usually known, is one of Argentina’s top producers. They have always championed vineyards planted at high elevations, believing that the cooler temperature and the character of the sunshine make the wines distinctive. … Read more
2015 White Burgundies: Marvelous for Current Drinking
Having tasted the 2015 Burgundies now that they have been bottled and are on retailers’ shelves, I can confirm my initial impression of the vintage –sensational for both reds and whites. Importantly, though, the character of the wines is very different depending on the color. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($34): John Loeb, Jr, former Ambassador to Denmark, businessman and philanthropist, established Sonoma-Loeb in 1990. The wines had always been made at Chappellet Vineyard and Winery, so when Chappellet purchased the property in 2011, nothing really changed — the wines are still top-notch. … Read more
Steele, Santa Barbara County (California) Pinot Noir Goodchild Vineyard 2014
($30): Jed Steele has a long history of making fine wine in California so my enthusiasm for this wine is not surprising. Steele purchases grapes from the Goodchild Vineyard which is located just across the river from the famed Bien Nacido vineyard (He also makes a Pinot Noir from grapes grown in that vineyard.) … Read more
Domaine du Closel, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Papillon 2016
($50): An extraordinary wine from an obscure area, the Domaine du Closel’s Savennières is thrilling in the best sense of the word. Thrilling because you don’t expect it. As in, where did this come from and why haven’t I heard about these wines? … Read more
Domaine du Grand Mouton, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Sur Lie” 2016
($21, Vintage ’59 Imports): Wines from the Muscadet area, the far west of the Loire Valley, especially those from the sub-region Sèvre et Maine, are fabulous with simple seafood, such as oysters or steamed clams. Louis Métaireau’s Grand Mouton is a “go-to” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine for just such fare. … Read more
Migration, Sta. Rita Hills (California) Pinot Noir Drum Canyon Vineyard 2015
($68): Migration, yet another label of the Duckhorn Wine Company, focuses on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Their first wine was the 2001 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Now they have ‘migrated’ to other regions of California, showing that the French do not have a monopoly of terroir — the concept that the place where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine. … Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Running Creek 2015
($68): This one, from a different vineyard in the Russian River Valley, is the boldest of this trio of Pinot Noir and delivers more black, rather than red, fruit character. Similar to Migration’s other offerings, its suave texture makes it extremely appealing for current consumption, though its balance suggests it will develop nicely with bottle age.… Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($68): Migration’s Pinot Noir from the famed Dutton Ranch in Russian River Valley has more oomph than their Sta. Rita bottling, no doubt from slightly warmer climate. Still, it has a lovely lacey, almost, red fruit delicacy, which to my mind is another key component of Pinot Noir — its ability to deliver flavor without weight.… Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2016
($40): Ben and Jake Fetzer, grandsons of famed Barney Fetzer who made Fetzer Vineyards a household name in the 1990s, founded Masút Vineyard and Winery in 2009 to focus on Pinot Noir. Their father had purchased 1,200 acres in Mendocino County, which the sons planted — they have 35-acres devoted to Pinot Noir — and eventually established the Eagle Peak appellation.… Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Mercurey, a small town in the Côte Chalonnaise in Southern Burgundy, is an especially good place to look for values in 2015. The extra warmth of the vintage helped these less prestigious sites. Compared to Drouhin’s Rully, from a neighboring village in the Côte Chalonnaise, this Mercurey has more earthiness accompanying its bright fruitiness. … Read more
Decanter May 2018: APSTEIN EXPLAINS WHY IT’S TIME TO LOOK AT SOAVE AGAIN
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Pinot Noir 2015
($14): Unbelievable. My first and second — and third — reaction to this wine. Wine with real Pinot Noir character at $14 a bottle. Fresh and clean, it’s a delicate, but flavorful wine that finishes ever so slightly sweet. But fresh acidity keeps it balanced. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017
($25): Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.” A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate. Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2015
($17, Constellation Imports): The Marlborough region on the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island is rapidly becoming known for Pinot Noir. This one imparts a pure, clean fruitiness that is, paradoxically, both intense and delicate. There’s not a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2015
($69, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get any better than this. Le Clos, sure to be classified as a premier cru vineyard when the classification system for Pouilly-Fuissé goes into effect in the next year or so, is owned solely — a monopole — by Château de Fuissé, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Mâcon-Chaintré (Burgundy, France) “Réserve des Rochers” 2015
($12): Chaintré is one of the communes that comprise the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. If a wine comes exclusively from vineyards in the village, but lie outside of that famous appellation, they can carry the name of village instead of the more generic appellation of Mâcon-Villages. … Read more
Domaine Vaudon, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2015
($35, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The 2015 vintage in Burgundy was outstanding for both reds and whites. Reds belong in the cellar, while the whites are delicious for earlier drinking as this one demonstrates. Domaine Vaudon is the Drouhin estate in Chablis where they make sensational wines. … Read more
Pieropan, Calvarino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2015
I Stefanini, Il Selese, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Bolla, Tufaie, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Prà, Otto, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Inama, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
Pieropan, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2017
Coffele, Castel Cerino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016
Ca’Rugate, Monte Fiorentine, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
I Stefanini, Monte di Fice, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016
Inama, Vigneto du Lot, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016
Gini, La Froscà, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2014
Soave revival: Producers to know
Northeast Italy’s classic dry white has come on in leaps and bounds in the past few decades. Michael Apstein gets to the heart of this hilly region, highlighting six of his favourite producers and selecting 12 of the best wines to try.… Read more
Bourgogne Magazine January 2018: AN INTERVIEW WITH MICHAEL APSTEIN
Awful Weather in Burgundy, But Some Awesome Wines from 2016
Usually it is perfect weather during the growing season that results in exceptional wines. Think 2005, 2009 or 2015 in Burgundy. Those “ideal weather” vintages produced excellent wines almost across the board. In 2016, the capriciousness of Nature was apparent: Hail ravaged some vineyards, destroying the entire crop, but leaving a neighboring vineyard untouched. … Read more
Buena Vista, Sonoma County (California) “The Count” Red Wine 2015
($20): If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there. Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23): After tasting this lovely Rully, a word Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson once used to describe a wine sprang to mind: “Delish!” Fresh and juicy, there’s not a hint of over-ripeness in mid-weight red. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue to this well-proportioned ready-to-drink village wine. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2016
($30): Mercurey, an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to well-priced authentic Burgundy, both red and white. In this era of stratospheric prices for Burgundies, consumers should search for wines from this village. Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, made a superb array of Mercurey wines in 2016. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Maladière 2015
($35): This is the first vintage that Château de Chamirey decided to bottle wine from this 3.5-acre vineyard separately. Half went into this bottling, while the other half went into their village Mercurey blend. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this 2015 tastes like a premier cru wine. … Read more
Domaine de Clos Salomon, Givrey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Salomon 2016
($35): Domaine Salomon is a — perhaps the — star in Givrey, yet another under-rated village in the Côte Chalonnaise. (Don’t confuse this village with Gevrey, as in Chambertin, in the Côte d’Or.) This wine, their flagship, hails from a 17.5-acre that they own exclusively. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DVC Estate Block 10 2016
($32): Chardonnay lovers, listen up. And those who think they don’t care for Chardonnay should also lend an ear. There’s a delicacy to this wine that makes it very appealing. Its fruitiness is enhanced by a hint of seductive oakiness. It delivers richness without being overt, overdone or heavy handed. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2016
($24): Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel. So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this. I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point. It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel. Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Hilltop” 2015
($35): A touch (5%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec enhance this delightful Cabernet Sauvignon. Filled with dark fruit and olive-like savory notes, it’s ready to enjoy now because of its fine, polished tannins. Juicy acidity in the finish keeps it lively throughout the meal. … Read more
Cuvaison, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): Although lovely herbal notes appear in this Pinot Noir, the focus is firmly footed on fruitiness. Suave mild tannins support the juicy red fruit nuances. The finish has a touch of sweetness, which makes the wine useful as a stand-alone glass before a meal.… Read more
La Crema, Arroyo Seco (Monterey, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2014
($40): Another fruit-focused Pinot Noir with good weight and a suave texture. Not overdone in the “Pinot Syrah” mode, it finishes a touch sweet, which I suspect is due in part to its 14.5% stated alcohol. Ready to drink now. I’d be sure to served it ever so slightly chilled to minimize the effect of the alcohol.… Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Confluence Vineyard 2015
($84): Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity. Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh. A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir The Narrows Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye, one of Duckhorn’s many labels, has captured the delicacy and charm of Pinot Noir with this single vineyard bottling. Delicate, red fruit flavors dance on the palate. Beautifully balanced, subtle bitter notes in the finish complement the sense of sweetness from its fruitiness. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Split Rail Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye’s single vineyard bottlings actually reflect the difference in sites. Theirs is not a marketing ploy. This one, for example, is denser and more concentrated, conveying more black rather than red fruit, compared to one from The Narrows Vineyard. Yet it still conveys the delicacy that makes Pinot Noir so alluring. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Gowan Creek Vineyard 2015
($84): Showing that you can never judge a wine by the numbers, Goldeneye’s Gowan Creek Vineyard bottling weighs in at a hefty 14.9% stated alcohol yet does not finish hot. Nor is it overdone. Indeed, it’s a balanced mixture of black fruit flavors and earthy savory ones. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014
($45): Unlike a Riserva in Italy, Reserve on a label on a California wine has no legal meaning. A winery can, and sometimes does, label their entire production, all several million bottles, as “reserve.” Not so with Rodney Strong. In this case, the winemaker selects the best barrels in the cellar and blends them to create a Reserve bottling. … Read more
Brunello di Montalcino 2013: The Virtue of Acidity
If there was ever any doubt,–and, of course, there shouldn’t be–that Brunello di Montalcino is one of the world’s great wines, a sad event last month should dispel it. Thieves stole about 1,000 bottles of Brunello, including some prized single-vineyard Riserva, Poggio al Vento, worth about $125,000, from Col d’Orcia, one of the region’s top producers. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2016
($118, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaudésir, along with Le Clos, sit atop most critics’ lists — certainly mine — of top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. To me, the wines from Vaudésir, in the hands of the best producers, combine power with elegance and epitomize the stature of Grand Cru classification. … Read more