($52, Winebow): 
I know, 50 bucks for a Vermentino? But this is no regular Vermentino. It’s a captivating, stop-you-in-your-tracks kind of wine. Grattamacco, founded in 1977, was the second winery, after Sassicaia, in what’s now the Bolgheri DOC. They planted Vermentino in addition to Cabernet, Merlot and Sangiovese and now claim to have the oldest Vermentino vines in Bolgheri, which probably accounts, at least in part, for the wine’s splendor. … Read more
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Vinacola Cherchi, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Tuvaoes” 2017
($32, Romano Brands): 
Vermentino is a grape that needs to see the sea, according to winemakers. The leading areas are Sardinia, the coast of Tuscany, and Liguria. This mid-weight one from Sardinia has a substantial mineral component buttressed by vibrant and lengthy acidity that amplifies its charms. … Read more
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Grancare” 2016
($36, Romano Brands): 
Greco di Tufo is one of Italy’s great white wines. This one has slightly nutty nuances and the hint of lava-like mineral notes you’d expect from its location near Mount Vesuvius. Bright and enlivening acidity tingles the palate. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Riparosso” 2017
($13, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Illuminati does it again with their Riparosso. They habitually produce a wine that delivers far more than the price suggests. It’s a bright and lively mid-weight wine that combines fruit and savory notes. A lovely firmness and a hint of bitterness in the finish, not to mention the price, makes it perfect for a simple mid-week pasta and meat sauce, or pizza.… Read more
Tuscany’s Maremma: Italy’s Wild West, in More Ways Than One
Despite being home to Ornellaia, Sassicaia, Grattamacco, and Masseto, some of Italy’s most expensive and sought-after wines, the Maremma remains obscure to most wine lovers. Though none of the above-mentioned wines carry the word Maremma on their labels, geographically their home is in that region. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2017
($22, Winebow): 
It’s hard to go wrong with any of the wines from Castellare di Castellina, one of the very best Chianti Classico producers. This wine, their normale or annata, is their base Chianti Classico and what high base it represents. … Read more
Villa Pinciana, Maremma Toscana DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Airali” 2018
($20, Bluest Sky Group Imports): 
Maremma Toscana, a large and relatively new DOC, is located in southwestern Tuscany, roughly halfway between Rome and Florence, extending from the coast to hilly inland areas. The Vermentino grape is king here for white wines. … Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rufina (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($24, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Though perhaps not as well-known as Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina, another of the eight subzones of the great Chianti region, is home to wonderful wines, such as this one. The focus of Grignano’s 2016 Rufina is on a combination of earthy and fruity notes. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico DOCG (Trentino, Italy) 2017
($22, Winebow): It’s hard to go wrong with any of the wines from Castellare di Castellina, one of the very best Chianti Classico producers. This wine, their normale or annata, is their base Chianti Classico and what high base it represents. … Read more
Vietti, Barbaresco DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Masseria” 2015
($95): 
Vietti, clearly one of Piedmont’s and Italy’s top producers and known for their stunning array of Barolo, makes only one Barbaresco, currently, according to their website. Labeled, “Masseria,” it comes from two vineyards in Neive and Treiso. The 2015, from a riper vintage, is gorgeous and particularly engaging at this point in its life. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolo’ V” 2015
($30, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Lunae Bosoni, the largest producer in Liguria, shows that big can be outstanding. Niccoló V, their flagship red, is named for a Pope who was born nearby the winery. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Pollera Nera, which their website says is grown nowhere else in Italy. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2016
($30): 
The Rogue Valley in southwestern Oregon does not have the cachet — yet — for wine that the Willamette Valley has. Wines from the Naumes family suggests that will change. The Naumes family has been growing fruit trees in Oregon for over a hundred years and added grapes and wine only in 2013, according to their website, making them a somewhat new player in the Oregon wine industry. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2017
($30): 
Viognier is a tough grape to transform into wine. It needs to ripen adequately to provide its floral dimension, but a little over ripeness brings with it high alcohol and an unbalanced wine. Despite the stated 14.5-percent alcohol, this one still harnesses delicate floral and peach-like notes both on the nose and the palate. … Read more
Tutunjian, Curicó Valley (Valle Centrale, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard, Estate Grown 2015
($17): 
The oversized bottle suggests this will be an oversized wine. But it’s not. Rather, mineral-y, savory flavors balance its ripe fruitiness. A suave texture adds to its appeal. Wonderful acidity keeps it fresh and amplifies its charms. A hint of sweetness appears in the finish. … Read more
Age Matters
Winegrowers around the world speak lovingly of old vines. Though the definition is never official, nor even clear, many bottles still carry the moniker, Vieilles Vignes, Vecchie Viti or Viñas Viejas, depending on whether you’re talking about French, Italian or Spanish wines. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2016
($30): The Rogue Valley in southwestern Oregon does not have the cachet — yet — for wine that the Willamette Valley has. Wines from the Naumes family suggests that will change. The Naumes family has been growing fruit trees in Oregon for over a hundred years and added grapes and wine only in 2013, according to their website, making them a somewhat new player in the Oregon wine industry. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Viognier 2017
($30): Viognier is a tough grape to transform into wine. It needs to ripen adequately to provide its floral dimension, but a little over ripeness brings with it high alcohol and an unbalanced wine. Despite the stated 14.5-percent alcohol, this one still harnesses delicate floral and peach-like notes both on the nose and the palate. … Read more
Poggio Trevvalle, Morellino di Scansano DOCG (Maremma, Tuscany, Italy) “Dù Galli” 2017
($20): 
The cutesy label and name (two roosters) represent the two brothers, Bernardo and Umberto Valle, who have crafted this engaging mid-weight red. Morellino di Scansano, which carries DOCG designation, Italy’s highest ranking, is an area in the Maremma in southwestern Tuscany, the primary grape of which is Sangiovese. … Read more
Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Is Argiolas” 2018
($20, Winebow): 
The Vermentino grape produces the best wine when, as the saying goes, its vines “can see the sea,” which is why it is an important grape on the island of Sardinia. Argiolas, a family-run winery dating to 1938, selects its oldest vines for Is Argiolas. … Read more
Fontezoppa, Falerio DOC (Marche, Italy) Pecorino “Citanò” 2018
($20): 
This is a quintessential Pecorino, displaying verve, salinity and pleasant hint of lemon or a grapefruit rind bitterness in the finish. This lively and energetic wine is great for balancing the pepperoncini that finds its way into the linguine and clam sauce.… Read more
Ballabio, Vino Spumante di Qualità (Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy, Italy) “Farfalla” Noir Collection, Zero Dosage NV
($22): 
Consumers tend to forget that Italy makes a host of sparkling wines in addition to Prosecco. And though I have nothing against Prosecco, many of Italy’s other bubblies, such as this one, provide a lot more interest. This one is positively riveting. … Read more
New and Entirely Different by Michael Apstein for Quench Magazine
Castello di Spessa, Collio DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2017
($21): 
Consumers can be excused if they are confused regarding the name of this grape. Formerly it was called Tocai Friulano, but the Hungarians objected that this dry white wine might be confused with their legendary sweet wine, Tokay (Tokaji), so they won a regulatory ruling that forced the Italians to change the name. … Read more
Ponte, Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($12): 
Though Prosecco has become — for some — the generic word for any wine with bubbles, this one actually is one from the mandated area in the northeastern Italy. Extra Dry, in this case, and, as with all sparkling wines, actually means a hint of sweetness. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($20): 
The quality of this wine and the enjoyment from it should come as no surprise. The 2016 vintage in Chianti Classico was fabulous, producing ripe but racy wines. Badia a Coltibuono is consistently among the top producers. The surprise here is finding a wine of this caliber for an average price of $20, though I’ve seen it for much less. … Read more
Agriverde, Terre di Chieti IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Riseis” 2018
($11): 
Pecorino, the grape and the wine made from it, is a name to remember. Its home is in the middle of the east coast of Italy in the regions of Le Marche and Abruzzo. As with all wine, there is a range of style of Pecorino from zippy and cutting to softer and creamier. … Read more
Cirelli La Collina Biologica, Colline Pescaresi IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2018
($21): 
Pecorino, both the wine and the cheese, typically have an attractive bite to them. This one, an organic wine from the organically-focused producer whose name is, literally, “the organic hill,” has a creamy texture that mutes the bite. It is still there, but overall the wine’s less energetic, but more suave, showing that Pecorino can have a broader profile.… Read more
A Star on Long Island
Recently, I happened to mention to my friend, Howard Goldberg, the longtime The New York Times wine writer, that I was writing a column about Loire wines made from Chenin Blanc. Howard suggested that I visit Paumanok on Long Island’s North Fork because, he said, they made great Chenin Blanc. … Read more
William Fevre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) 2018
($25, Maison Marques et Domaines): 
Saint-Bris, formerly known as Sauvignon de Saint Bris before it was elevated to appellation d’origine controllée (AOC) status, is curious and unique in Burgundy. Located in the far north, near Chablis and covering a mere 200 acres, it requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay, for its wines. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Côteaux Bourguignons (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir “Les Pierres Dorées” 2017
($26, Louis Latour, USA): 
Côteaux Bourguignons is a relatively new appellation, replacing Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, an appellation I’ve never seen in the U.S., perhaps because a “grand ordinary” wine is hard to sell. Grapes for this appellation can come from anywhere in Burgundy, from Beaujolais in the south to Irancy in the north. … Read more
Domaine P-L & J-F Bersan, Cuvée Marianne, Irancy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029Though they have a hectare of vines in Irancy, their Cuvée Marianne comes from Pinot Noir—and a tiny amount of César—from two lieux-dits, Les Rez and La Grande Côte Est, that they buy from a neighbouring grower.
Domaine de Mauperthuis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
The stony character of the appellation offsets the ripeness imparted by the 2019 vintage. The inclusion of César adds a savoury and enchanting rusticity that contrasts nicely with the more black-fruited, as opposed to red cherry, notes.
Clotilde Davenne, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Davenne’s village Irancy shows her talent. While it does not command the same presence as her Paradis bottling, there’s plenty to like here. Great aromatics, a bit of red fruits, some minerality, freshness and a polished texture come together in this beautifully balanced wine.
Domaine Colinot, Veaupessiot, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Veaupessiot lieu-dit sits adjacent to Palotte, but lower on the slope. The 2019 Veaupessiot is a good contrast with their riper 2018 from the same site and demonstrates a clear distinction between these two hot vintages.
Domaine Colinot, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
From Palotte, a south-facing lieu-dit that many locals and critics, alike, consider to be one of Irancy’s best site, Domaine Colinot has combined both a fruity and minerally expression of Irancy. Colinot’s Palotte bottling exhibits good ripeness—both the site and vintage speaking—with sufficient balancing acidity that keeps it lively.
Christophe Ferrari Domaine St. Germain, Irancy, Burgundy 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Nicolas Ferrari, one of the leading young producers in Irancy, succeeded admirably with his 2019s. Subtle spiciness is a welcome counterpoint to the more black than red fruit flavours displayed here. The sunshine of the vintage explains the wine’s succulence, while the cooler nights and Irancy’s northern locale capture balancing acidity.
Maison de la Chapelle, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Here’s a great example of the high-quality wines from Irancy that a newly established small domaine can produce. Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this Irancy is a terrific expression of the appellation. Dark cherry-like fruitiness offsets the wine’s stony, iron-tinged side.
Maison de la Chapelle, Les Bâtardes, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This wine made exclusively from Pinot Noir from the Les Bâtardes lieu-dit makes an excellent comparison to Maison de la Chapelle’s multi-vineyard Irancy bottling. As with their Irancy village bottling, Les Bâtardes is refined and pure, albeit expressing riper, more lush fruit character and less stoniness at this stage.
Isabelle & Denis Pommier, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Unsurprisingly, this top Chablis producer has also produced a winning village Irancy. Polished tannins enrobe this lively mix of herbal, cherry-like fruit, and minerals. There’s a little bit of everything and not too much of anything.
Domaine Verret, Fût de Chêne, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Many wines, especially from lesser-known appellations, proclaiming Fût de Chêne (aged in oak) are askew with prominent wood flavours and tannins. Not Verret’s Irancy. It was aged for 11 months in used – four to 12-year old- barrels, which helps explain why the oak is seamlessly incorporated into the wine.
Domaine Ternynck, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
A field blend of Pinot Noir and César, this Palotte was aged in older oak barrels for 18 months, gravity-racked, and bottled without fining or filtration. This mid-weight wine displays a plethora of red fruits and distinct, almost tarry, minerality, reflecting the stature of the lieu-dit and the care and talents of the winemaking team.
Domaine Ternynck, Mazelot, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2029
Ternynck’s Mazelot bottling, made entirely from Pinot Noir, shows the wonderful diversity of the lieux-dits of Irancy. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and judicious aging in mostly used French oak barrels allows the wine to convey the Janus-like duality of Burgundy – black cherry-like fruitiness and an earthy, savoury side.
Domaine Colinot, Cuvée Soufflot, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This is a masterful blend of Pinot Noir and César that Colinot has co-fermented since the varieties are planted and harvested together. A hint of minerality peaks out from underneath the wine’s firm and fruity red cherry-like profile.
Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
This new and tiny domaine, founded less than a decade ago, produces only about 6,000 bottles from one hectare of Pinot Noir in the Les Mazelots lieu-dit. This Mazelots reflects the care they put into their wines.
Clotilde Davenne, Paradis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
With her 2019 Paradis, Clotilde Davenne shows why the Paradis lieu-dit has potential for 1er Cru status. She does not want wood marring the wine, so she uses no new barrels, noting that ‘César does it all’.
Stéphan & Marie Podor, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2025
From 75+ year old vines, the 2015 Podor Mazelots shows that the wine from the top lieux-dits in Irancy need time to show their stuff. There’s good density here and a touch of charming rusticity, no doubt from the five or so percent of César in the blend.
Simonnet-Febvre, Paradis, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2018
Drinking Window: 2024 – 2032
Wine from this south-southwest facing lieu-dit shows the importance of terroir. As much as I liked Simonnet-Febvre’s straight Irancy, this one is just better, although not for current drinking. Tighter and, despite no César in the blend, it’s more tannic than their straight Irancy.
Domaine Verret, Palotte, Irancy, Burgundy, France, 2019
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2029
Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this cuvée reflects the stature of the lieu-dit. This mid-weight wine displays excellent richness without a trace of heaviness or over-ripeness. Verret captured riveting acidity, imbuing the wine with energy. Minerals and red fruit flavours dance on the palate, intermingling seamlessly.
Domaine Colinot, Les Mazelots, Irancy, Burgundy, 2012
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2026
When tasted with Anita Colinot in 2019, she felt this bottling was just coming into its own. Though I hadn’t tasted it at a more youthful time, I can see what she means. Any rusticity that César may have imparted during its youth has morphed into an alluring complexity of earthy leafiness.
Domaine Benôit Cantin, Cuvée Emeline, Irancy, 2015
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2025
Benoit took over this multi-generational family estate based in Irancy itself in 1994. This cuvée, named for his daughter, is a multi-parcel blend that contains a bit of César and shows how beautifully these village wines can develop.