($30): 
The Viognier grape is tough to translate properly into a wine. Ripeness is necessary to release its inherent floral character, but over-ripeness results in a heavy wine. Naumes strikes the balance. Lovely floral apricot aromas predict the stone fruit flavors that follow. … Read more
All posts by admin
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) “Triolet” 2017
($40): 
The blend, Barbera (60%) and Malbec, is unique. I know of no other winery producing it. The name, Triolet, which is a type of poem, according to the dictionary, is equally unique. Corey Shultz, the winery director, says the name is to honor the Naumes Family’s triplets and that in subsequent vintages there will be third grape in the blend. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2017
($40): 
Captivating herbal notes are immediately apparent in the nose and later on the palate. A blend of several clones of Pinot Noir, this is a delicate and airy example of the varietal, displaying a wondrous mixture of savory and fruity flavors.… Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Syrah 2017
($35): 
This big, bold Syrah has beautiful balance and bright acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. It conveys a splendid combination of savory, almost bacon fat-like nuances, spicy black pepper notes, and dark fruitiness. Though youthful and forceful, it is not overdone or boisterous. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rouge Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2017
($30): 
As much as I liked Naumes 2016 Tempranillo, their 2017 struck me as even better. Its firmness and minerality presents a great contrast to the fleshy and fruitier Malbec. It is structured without being aggressive or hard. Its stature is apparent in the long and attractive hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
A Rogue in Oregon
One definition of rogue is “something out of the ordinary.” It is fitting, then, that the Naumes Family Winery is located in Oregon’s Rogue Valley, because they certainly do something out of the ordinary. Ordinary, in terms of Oregon wine, is pretty clear: superb Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and notable Pinot Gris. … Read more
Pouilly-Fuissé Vineyards Finally Get Premier Cru Status
The Nazis were responsible for the lack of Premier Cru vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé. As Frédéric Burrier, the head of the Pouilly-Fuissé growers’ organization, explains: In the 1940s, in Occupied France, the Germans could requisition village wines, but had to pay for ones, at least theoretically, from a higher classification.
Miolo, Vale dos Vinhedos (Brazil) Brut “Cuvée Tradition” NV
($14, CapCity Beverage): 
There’s probably no greater statement regarding the potential of the sparkling wine industry in Brazil than the investment by Moët & Chandon there in the 1970s. Miolo has been producing sparkling wines from there vineyards in Vale dos Vinhedos, the first Brazilian area to receive DO status, long before Moët invested in the country. … Read more
Casa Perini, Farroupilha (Serra Gaúcha, Brazil) Moscatel NV
($20, Aiko Imports): 
Brazil ranks third in wine production in South America after Argentina and Chile, according to The Oxford Companion to Wine. And almost a quarter of the country’s production is sparkling wine. Most of the fine wine production is located in the Serra Gaúcha area, where Italian and German immigrants settled, in the southern (cooler — away from the equator) part of the country near the border with Uruguay. … Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, Burgundy, France 2019
Drinking Window: 2027 – 2033It’s difficult to predict how the final wine will compare to a barrel sample. To my way of thinking, tasting a barrel sample is somewhat analogous to viewing a single frame of a motion picture. The ending may be a surprise.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2018
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030Unsurprisingly, given the warmth of the vintage, the 2018 leads with a pristine and dark cherry-like power than overshadows the mineral aspect hiding underneath. Though lacking the tensile nature of the 2017, it displays uplifting acidity, especially in the finish, that offsets the ripeness.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2017
Drinking Window: 2026 – 2030The 2017 vintage for red Burgundy was Janus-like. Some wines are charming and forward. Others, like this one, have the requisite substance, structure, and balance for the long haul. This was the first year the domaine was almost fully biodynamic, and, that perhaps, explains the wine’s brilliance.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2016
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030The Pascals introduced organic farming in 2016, which may explain its success in that tricky vintage. The only problem: it follows the 2015. Captivating savoury notes—that not-just-fruit character—are apparent and mingle with dark cherry-like fruitiness. Suave texture, now a hallmark of the domaine since 2015, adds to its appeal.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2015
Drinking Window: 2025 – 2030The grandeur of the 2015 comes from a combination of a new winery, a new winemaker, and the introduction of a second wine. That trio of changes catapulted the wine—and subsequent vintages—to a higher plateau. The 2015, with succulent dark cherry-like fruit, is concentrated, yet not over-the-top.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2014
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022The 2014 vintage was difficult enough for red Burgundy in general. The fruit fly, Drosophila suzukii, wreaked even more havoc, according to Philippe, forcing them to sort severely. The wine reflects the challenges of the year with lighter colour and less concentration.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2013
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2022With rain during harvest, the 2013 was a difficult year in Burgundy in general and especially for the Domaine du Cellier aux Moines. Philippe Pascal reports that they discarded one-third of the crop because of rot.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2012
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2025The 2012, shows the benefits of the Pascal’s improvements in the vineyard. It was the first vintage to include a significant portion of grapes from their replanted massal selection of vines using the parcelaire approach, which they initiated in 2008.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2010
Drinking Window: 2023 – 2027The 2010 is positively gorgeous. Less dense than the 2009, it nevertheless displays excellent concentration and an invigorating tension, delivering a balanced mixture of cherry-like fruitiness and minerals. A streak of crystalline purity holds it all together.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2009
Drinking Window: 2022 – 2026The 2009, still a product of the early years of the Pascal’s ownership confirms the quality of the terroir. A muscular wine, reflecting the warm vintage, the 2009 has great acidity, imparting freshness and balance. Classic Givry stoniness underpins its black cherry-like fruitiness.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2007
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2020The 2007, from a generally early-maturing vintage, is clearly past its prime. I suspect it would have been far better five years ago. The fruit has faded while the tannins have persisted. Hollow and angular, it nevertheless displays lively freshness.
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Givry, 1er Cru Clos du Celliers aux Moines, 2006
Drinking Window: 2020 – 2020Fully mature, yet still fresh, the 2006 displays a nose of dried flowers and earth. Dried fruit flavours have evolved and blend seamlessly with woodsy accents. The firmness often found in young Givry has given way to suppleness.
Cascina Castlet, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Vespa” 2019
($35, Artisan Selections by Romano Brands): 
Barbera is a terrific wine for a meal because the grape has inherently high acidity, which makes it lively and perfect for food. Its problem is image. When consumers see many on retailers’ shelves selling for less than $10 a bottle, the question is, why spend more? … Read more
Cascina Castlet, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Litina” 2016
($40, Artisan Selections by Romano Brands): 
The label sports CCC in bold letters on the bottle, the abbreviation of the winery, Cascina Caslet, plus the village, Costigliole, where it’s located. The important information can be found on the neck label. Similar to their Vespa bottling, the Litinia, named after a family member, is a robust wine that delivers black fruitiness buttressed by zippy acidity. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2016
($80): 
Site matters. A skeptic of that statement just needs to taste this Pinot Noir made from grapes grown in a vineyard located in the windy Petaluma Gap of Sonoma next to the Gary Farrell Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2016
($70): 
Santa Maria Valley’s east-west orientation is unusual in California where most of the valleys run north-south. Its orientation, which allows cooling Pacific Ocean breezes, explains its cooler climate despite its southern California location. The bright red fruit-like profile reflects the coolness of the site. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Toboni Vineyard 2016
($55): 
The warmth of the Russian River Valley compared to the Sonoma Coast or Santa Maria Valley accounts for riper raw material for this Pinot Noir, which is translated into a more robust wine. Similar to the one from Martaella Vineyard, it delivers power at the expense of subtlety. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Martaella Vineyard 2016
($65): 
Those who love a more robust style of Pinot Noir will embrace the Martaella Vineyard bottling from Gary Farrell, in relation to the rest of this producer’s lineup. The focus here is on the ripe, plum-like fruitiness. As with all of Farrell’s Pinot Noirs, the tannins are fine and the textured refined, which makes it easy to enjoy now. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard 2016
($55): 
This wine presents a fascinating comparison with the Farrell’s Dijon Clones Pinot Noir from the same vineyard. The winemaker says it’s a blend of five clones of Pinot Noir instead of two Dijon clones. It has the same power as the Dijon Clones bottling, but reveals less complexity at this stage. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard Dijon Clones 2016
($60): 
The warmer Russian River Valley compared to Farrell’s Fort Ross bottling explains the riper style of this Pinot Noir. Black fruit flavors mingle with savory earthy components in this juicy, bright, and long wine. Though slightly bigger and bolder than their Fort Ross Pinot Noir, it remains impeccably balanced. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Fort Ross – Seaview (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard 2016
($75): 
The Fort Ross Vineyard is a cold site, lying less than a mile from the Pacific Ocean and roughly 1,500 feet above sea level. The temperature rarely exceeds 85º, all of which explains the wine’s profile: a fabulous combination of beguiling fruitiness and smokey savory nuances. … Read more
Site Trumps Everything
Tasting a line-up of the 2016 Gary Farrell Pinot Noirs shows why Theresa Heredia, the winemaker for wines, is adamant about the importance of site. Same grape variety, same vintage, same winemaking, so how else to explain the wonderful difference between the Pinot Noir she made from grapes grown in the Fort Ross Vineyard in the Fort Ross—Seaview AVA and the one made from those in the Toboni Vineyard, located in the Russian River Valley?
… Read more Sosie Wines, Sonoma County (California) Brut Nature “First Things First” 2018
($30): 
To borrow Sosie’s phrase, first things first: people will either love or hate this well-made sparkling wine because it’s different. Composed entirely of Roussanne, a white grape indigenous to France’s Rhône Valley, it conveys stone fruit — think nectarine-like — flavors. … Read more
Gianni Gagliardo, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Castelletto 2013
($100, Enotec Imports / Blair Taylor Selection Denver): 
The village of Monforte d’Alba, where the Castelletto vineyard is located, is a Barolo zone that typically produces weighty and muscular wines, similar to those from Serralunga d’Alba. So, I was surprised by lovely fragrance and elegance that emanated from Gagliardo’s bottling. … Read more
Palladino, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) S. Bernardo Riserva 2013
($88, Enotec Imports / Blair Taylor Selection Denver): 
Though the 2016 vintage in Barolo has been receiving great critical acclaim — rightfully so — other vintages from that DOCG are not far behind. Case in point, this 2013 from Palladino, based in Serralunga d’Alba, a Barolo zone known for tannic and tough wines. … Read more
Barone Sergio, Eloro DOC (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Sergio” 2018
($21, Artisanal Cellars): 
“Eloro is a grand cru for Nero d’Avola,” according to Ian d’Agata, one of the world’s foremost authorities on Italian wines. Barone Sergio has 75 acres of vineyards, two-thirds of which are devoted to that grape, one of Sicily’s most important varieties. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Bric Paradiso” Riserva 2015
($55, Blicker Pierce Wagner Wine Merchants): 
Roero, located on the left bank of the Tanaro River, across from the Langhe, produces lighter Nebbiolo-based wines compared to those from across the river due to a generally lighter soil. This, a fragrant beauty, has the Burgundian sensibility I call, “flavor without weight.” … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Garassino” 2016
($50, Consortium Wine & Spirits Imports): 
Tenuta Carretta is the sole owner of 11.5-acre Garassino vineyard, a recognized MGA (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva) or “cru” in the Treiso part of the Barbaresco zone. It’s what the French would call a monopole. Their well-price 2016 is elegant and understated. … Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Nocio 2016
($159, Empson USA): 
The 2016 Il Nocio is an extraordinary wine. Boscarelli is one of the top producers — some would say THE top producer — of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Il Nocio, from the vineyard of the same name, is their top wine. … Read more
Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011
($80, Selezioni Varietali): 
This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine. Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety. … Read more
A Winery in…L.A.?
California red wine selling for $150+ a bottle is not a rarity anymore. But who’s heard of a Los Angeles winery selling one for that price? For that matter, who’s heard of Los Angeles wineries at all? If you haven’t, you’re not alone. … Read more
Bocale di Valentini, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria, Italy) “Bocale” 2015
($47, Tradizione Imports): 
The Sagrantino grape does not make wimpy wines. So, there’s no surprise that this one is big and bold, weighing in at 15.5 percent stated-alcohol. And, as expected from wines from this DOCG, its tannic youthfulness is in evidence. … Read more
Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Nocio 2016
($159, Empson USA): The 2016 Il Nocio is an extraordinary wine. Boscarelli is one of the top producers — some would say THE top producer — of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Il Nocio, from the vineyard of the same name, is their top wine. Pietro Beconcini, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Reciso” 2015
($35, Beivuma Wines): 
Beconcini, located in San Miniato, a small town halfway between Pisa and Florence, makes range of wines from a Chianti to this one, his top of the line. Made entirely from organically-grown Sangiovese, it’s a beauty, probably, in part at least, because of the age of the vines. … Read more
Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011
($80, Selezioni Varietali): This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine. Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety. … Read more
Usiglian del Vescovo, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Barbiglione” 2015
($32, Wine Worldwide Inc): 
The Terre di Pisa DOC is not even a decade old, having been founded only in 2011. It’s a tiny area (less than 150 acres) with only a handful of producers, surrounding the Tuscan town of Pisa on Italy’s west coast, north of Bolgheri. … Read more
Castello La Leccia, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Bruciagna” 2015
($40, Ideal Wine): 
Gran Selezione, a category introduced a decade ago, sits at the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, above Riserva. To qualify for this distinction, the wine must come from the producer’s estate — no purchased grapes allowed — be aged for a minimum of 30 months, and receive approval from a tasting panel. … Read more
Tua Rita, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso dei Notri” 2019
($22, Winebow): 
One of the things I admire about producers, such as Tua Rita, who can make a high-end wine (in Tua Rita’s case, their Redigaffi a $300+ per bottle Merlot) is that they can also produce a perfectly delightful $25 wine, such as this Rosso dei Notri. … Read more
Poggioargentiera, Morellino di Scansano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Bellamarsilia” 2019
($16): 
Morellino di Scansano is yet another Tuscan wine region that uses primarily Sangiovese for its red wines. Located in the Maremma part of Tuscany on the region’s southeast coast, it received DOCG designation (Italy’s highest official wine classification) in 2006. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2010
($56, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): 
Carmignano, lying just northwest of Florence and Tuscany’s smallest DOCG, is really the original Super Tuscan. Regulations there mandated the marriage of Cabernet, either Sauvignon or Franc, with Sangiovese long before that blend became popular elsewhere in Tuscany. … Read more
