Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses (Burgundy, France) Les Boutonnières 2005

($27, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): A potential drawback to some white Burgundies from 2005 is a lack of uplifting acidity.  That’s not a problem with this wine because the village of Auxey-Duresses lies in a cool microclimate that prevented the warmth of 2005, responsible for the great concentration and intensity, from sapping this wine’s acidity. … Read more

Domaine Gallois, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Combe Aux Moines 2005

($100): The demand for the marvelous 2005 vintage in red Burgundy has pushed all the prices higher.  You may shudder at the price–after all, this is premier, not grand, cru–but you’ll smile after you taste the wine.  Gallois’ Combe Aux Moines delivers those classic Gevrey-Chambertin earthy, woodsy touches mixed with a hint of smoke and plenty of black fruit. … Read more

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2001

($70, Grapes of Spain): It’s not often that a producer’s early wines from a new area are so outstanding.  Usually it takes time to discern the quirks of the vineyards and area.  But the 2001 Paixar has it all.  Powerful, but not overdone- — a mere 13.5% alcohol — it delivers layers of mineral-infused nuances seamlessly intertwined with succulent black cherry-like flavor.  … Read more

Girardin, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005

($52, Vineyard Brands): Girardin makes little or no wine from premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, opting to buy grapes from growers who own plots classified simply as Chambolle-Musigny, presumably because he feels they deliver better value.   I hate to classify a $50 wine as a ‘value wine,’ but considering Burgundy, especially in the 2005 vintage, it probably is. … Read more

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004

($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004.  The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines.  According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more

Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004

($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra.  It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker.  She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005

($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa.  Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more