($30, Vintage New World): Viognier is a tough grape to vinify. Often the wine can be heavy and blowsy or alcoholic because the grapes need to be very ripe to transmit the requisite aroma and flavor to the wine. John Edwards, owner of The Lane Vineyard, has done a fabulous job with his 2006. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Columbia Winery, Yakima Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Wyckoff Vineyard 2004
($20): Despite being barrel fermented and undergoing malolactic 
fermentation, this Chardonnay is not in-your-face, but rather has a beautiful balance of fruit and oak. Bright vibrant acidity keeps it lively. A relatively low–at least these days–13.5% alcohol helps explain its character and appeal.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “l’Andeol” 2006
($16): Rasteau is one of the villages under Côtes du Rhone Villages appellation that is allowed to put its name on the label because it has the potential to make better and more distinctive wines than the average of villages within the legally delimited region.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($12, Vineyard Brands): 
In addition to owning the famed Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family has a négociant business buying grapes and unfinished wines from growers–often neighbors–in the southern Rhone Valley and selling the finished wine under the Perrin & Fils label. … Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($35): Although the emphasis in this wine is on sweet, lush, California fruit flavors, earthy and smoky elements add complexity. Its elegance is marred only slightly by heat of alcohol apparent in the finish. 88 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Sinards” 2005
($33, Vineyard Brands): Powerful, yes, but it’s this wine’s refinement that shows why Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the southern Rhone’s most well-known appellation. A beautiful minerality and floral components harmonize effortlessly with spicy nuances. Though made from the usual blend of Mediterranean grapes, this wine has a gracefulness not usually associated with the southern Rhône that makes it enjoyable to drink now.… Read more
Clos du Bois, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Merlot Reserve 2004
($22): Tasted side-by-side with their regular–North Coast–Merlot, the 
superiority of the Reserve bottling is readily evident and, in my mind, worth the extra four dollars. As expected, it has more sweet fruit flavors, more apparent oak aging and more supporting tannins. … Read more
Southern Right Cellars, Walker Bay (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($13): 
Southern Right makes marvelously consistent Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2007 is no exception. It combines layers of chalky minerality found in Sancerre with bracing New Zealand type acidity characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Which makes sense, since South Africa is located roughly halfway between those two regions. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($16, Hess Imports): Plump black cherry flavors buttressed by uplifting acidity and fine tannins make this wine an excellent buy. Not an ‘aperitif’ wine, it goes best with hearty beef dishes. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 5, 2008… Read more
Cycles Gladiator, Central Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($11): I’ve never been enamored of the label of this brand, owned by Hahn Estates, the high quality Monterey-based winery. But the wine in the bottle shows very well in blind tastings and consistently offers excellent value. This 2005 Pinot Noir continues in that vein, delivering an alluring earthy/leafy component atop bright fresh red fruit flavors.… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): Bouchaine Vineyards specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 
grapes that thrive in cooler climates, because of their location in the Carneros region. Carneros spans the southern parts of both Napa and Sonoma and is cooled by influences from the San Pablo Bay. … Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir Reserva 2006
($15, Huneeus Vintners): 
This straightforward Pinot Noir delivers bright primary fruit–cherry-like–flavors without earthy, leafy nuances frequently found in the varietal. A nice balance of pure fruit flavors, lively acidity and soft tannins makes it perfect for current consumption. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008… Read more
Joseph Burrier, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “Les Paquelets” 2005
($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Syrah Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2004
($34): The Syrah grape can deliver peppery or plummy flavors depending on where it’s planted. MacRostie manages to get both, perhaps because the grapes came from two different blocks within its Wildcat Mountain Vineyard. The result is a lovely plummy, slightly peppery Syrah with nuances of smoke and bacon fat. … Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005
($22, Tom Eddy Wines): Despite its 14.5% alcohol, which it carries beautifully, Capel Vale’s Shiraz bares little resemblance to the powerfully concentrated ones from the Barossa Valley. There is no lack of fruit flavor or weight here, but what impresses is the exotic spices, bacon fat, complexity and great length. … Read more
Juniper Crossing, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2005
($35, Tom Eddy Wines): This nicely balanced wine has plenty of vibrant acidity to complement the ripe black cherry fruit. More concentrated and deeper than many Shiraz from Western Australia, it still captures the finesse and complexity characteristic of wines from that region.… Read more
Larry Cherubino, Frankland River (Western Australia) Shiraz Powder Bark Vineyard “The Yard” 2005
($40, Tom Eddy Wines): Cherubino was the winemaker at Houghton, a leading producer in Western Australia, and a senior winemaker at New Zealand’s prestigious Craggy Range, before setting out on his own. Judging from this, his first Shiraz, he will succeed at this endeavor as well. … Read more
The Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Shiraz Viognier “Off the Leash, Max” 2006
($25, Tom Eddy Wines): Australia is well-known for its off-the-wall naming of wines, but this one wins the prize. It’s hard to know the name of the wine from reading the label. Is it Max, or Off the Leash? Thankfully, the quality and refinement of this Shiraz Viognier blend is clear. … Read more
McWilliams of Coonawarra, Coonawarra (South Australia) Shiraz “Old Vine, Stentiford’s Reserve” 2002
($55, McWilliams of Australia): 
The vines for this wine, some of which are still producing fruit, were first planted in the Laira Vineyard in 1896 by Captain Stentiford, an English sea captain. McWilliams has avoided the temptation to make an over-the-top Shiraz from low-yielding vines that produce concentrated fruit. … Read more
MacRostie, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): MacRostie used a combination of its own Wildcat Mountain Estate and purchased fruit for this stylish wine. An alluring earthiness marries nicely with bright raspberry fruit flavors and is balanced by good acidity and mild tannins. It carries the 14.2% alcohol nicely.… Read more
Château Thieuley, Bordeaux (France) 2005
($12, Ex-Cellars Wine Agency): A gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows the combination of grace and ripeness that is the hallmark of the 2005 vintage. Unusually complex for a wine of this price, it has nuances of earth and other non-fruit flavors to complement the fruit flavors.… Read more
Reviews: FRANCE – Bordeaux
Château Sainte-Marie, Bordeaux Supérieur (Bordeaux, France) Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($13, Wine Brokers International): Relatively full and rich, with apparent oak flavors add a luxurious, almost sweet, element to the finish. Plenty of acidity keeps this fresh and balanced. It’s an attractively priced wine for drinking tonight.… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut “La Grande Dame” 1998
($165, Moet Hennessy USA): More forward than the fabulous 1996 Grande Dame, this is one of the rare times I would recommend drinking Grande Dame upon release, instead of cellaring it for a few years. Its opulence and softer-than-usual profile makes it ideal for enjoying now. … Read more
Terrazas de los Andes, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2004
($20, Moet Hennessy USA): Argentina, like Chile a decade or two ago, has captured American consumers’ attention because it makes solid, less-than-$10-a-bottle wines. But as in Chile, Argentine producers can deliver more than you’d expect at a slightly higher price level. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos St. Jacques 2005
($129, Kobrand): This is a Grand Cru wine in all respects except the label. The story goes that when the locals were classifying the vineyards in the 1930s as either Grand or Premier Cru, the Clos St. Jacques was set to be included as a Grand Cru. … Read more
Vincent Girardin, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Renardes 2005
($88, Vineyard Brands): Girardin’s style favors the forward fruity side of Burgundy rather than the earthy leafy side. Impressive, almost flamboyant aromas, precede the packed, ripe flavors–from fruit, not oak–that are the predominant features of this silky wine. Nicely balanced, it shows the ripeness of the vintage without going overboard.… Read more
Maison Faiveley, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Corton Faiveley 2005
($216, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley owns about 7.5 acres of the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Corton, near the summit of the Corton hill just below the protective shield of trees. It’s almost always their best wine and at tastings is invariably served after the more powerful ones from the Côte de Nuits. … Read more
Maison Faiveley, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de l’Ecu 2005
($85, Wilson Daniels): This outstanding wine from Beaune has exceptional length and finesse. Fine tannins harmonize with bright, ripe, penetrating fruit and earth flavors. The layers of flavor convey depth, but there’s no heaviness here. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007… Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Merlot Vintners Reserve 2004
($18): KJ — as it is affectionately called in the trade — obtains grapes from all over California to fashion this classy Merlot. Not overwrought, the hint of leafy quality characteristic of that grape complements the bright red- and black-fruit elements. … Read more
Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
($11): An extraordinary value, Hogue Cellars’ 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has grace and finesse rarely seen at this price. Fine, polished tannins support, but don’t overwhelm, the bright black cherry fruit flavors and nuances of herbs and smoke. A simple wine at first blush, the flavors expand and the complexity becomes apparent over time as the wine sits in the glass.… Read more
Jaboulet, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Jalets” 2004
($23, Wildman): Jaboulet, one the Rhône’s most reliable and top producers, makes two wines, this one and one labeled Thalabert, from Crozes-Hermitage, the flatter land surrounding the more prestigious Hermitage appellation. Les Jalets has a smoothness and elegance surrounding its characteristic peppery spicy core. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Merlot 2004
($18): With so many disappointing Merlots on the market, it’s especially gratifying to find one like Clos LaChance’s. A lovely mixture of herbs and black fruit is immediately apparent in the nose and follows on the palate. A hint of creamy oakiness is well integrated and adds to the allure. … Read more
Buena Vista, Carneros (California) Merlot 2004
($21): This wine explains why Merlot is so popular. Attractively gamey and earthy flavors–not just fruit–come across in the nose and carry onto the palate and are balanced by supple tannins. Not a ‘fruit bomb,’ its layers of flavor persist throughout the finish.… Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($17, Baystate Wine Company): The cutting–almost electrifying–edge emblematic of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough region of New Zealand blasts from the glass. But the real treat is flavor in the mid-palate, often a void in many New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Its laser-like character is carried nicely into the finish.… Read more
Kendall Jackson, California (United States) Meritage “Vintners Reserve” 2004
($13): Kendall Jackson has a seemingly never-ending ability to blend wines from throughout California to achieve excellent value offerings. Comprised of almost equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot–with a touch of Cabernet Franc thrown in–this bottling has sweet fruit balanced by mild tannins and just enough complexity to keep it interesting. … Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2004
($26, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): Over the years, Guigal, one of the Rhone’s best producers, has expanded his portfolio by selective purchases of competitors’ vineyards. He now produces a marvelous Crozes-Hermitage at about only twice the price of his basic, good-value Cotes du Rhone, which makes it another excellent buy. … Read more
Château Recougne, Bordeaux Superiéur (Bordeaux, France) 2005
($15, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): This is one of many wines that demonstrates the tremendous value to be found in the 2005 red Bordeaux. It delivers more enjoyment that its modest appellation, Bordeaux Superiéur, suggests. Meaty nuances combine with ripe fruit flavors in this silky wine. … Read more
Guigal, Côte Rôtie (Rhône Valley, France) Brune et Blonde 2003
($85, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): The quality and resulting deserved popularity of this wine–along with 
a sinking dollar–has increased its price dramatically. Nonetheless, the Guigal’s sensational 2003 Brune et Blonde, clearly one of his best ever, should be in every Rhône-lover’s cellar. … Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Red Hills Estate 2004
($85): The difference between Archery Summit’s Red Hills Estate and Arcus Pinot Noir shows that the French don’t have a monopoly on the concept of terroir. The Red Hills Estate is a more succulent, much riper, fruitier expression of Pinot Noir, conveying less of the earthy, woodsy character of that grape.… Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2004
($85): 
Anna Matzinger, Archery Summit’s winemaker since 2002, has done a tremendous job with this wine over the years. The 2004 continues the tradition of a glorious combination of mouth-filling flavors of earth and fruit. Its complexity and delicacy continues to dazzle through the long finish.… Read more
Archery Summit, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Archery Summit Estate 2004
($150): This, the flagship cuvée from this top-notch Pinot Noir producer, is a notch above their other excellent offerings. The Archery Summit Estate bottling combines the succulence of the Red Hills Estate bottling with the earthy complexity of the wine from their Arcus vineyard. … Read more
Tapestry, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz Baker Gully Vineyard 2005
($12, Scott Street Portfolio): A subtle peppery component in this wine acts as an attractive 
counterpoint to the very ripe, plumy flavors characteristic of Aussie Shiraz. Another plus is an appealing freshness in the finish that balances the fruity ripeness. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2004
($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Mad Fish, the second label of the well-regarded Howard Park Wines, consistently offers good values. This harmonious Shiraz combines the peppery with the plumy flavors that that grape delivers. Keeping with its Western Australian origins, it is not an in-your-face kind of wine. … Read more
Mad Fish, Western Australia (Australia) Riesling 2006
($14, Bluewater Wine Co.): Virtually bone dry, this impressive Riesling has a touch of earthy minerality complemented by a zing in the finish. It’s another good example of refreshing–and unique–Riesling from Western Australia. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 16, 2007… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaujolais Villages (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2006
($12, Kobrand): Jadot has made a substantial investment in Beaujolais with their single vineyard wines from their estates in Moulin-a-Vent, Brouilly, Fleurie and Morgon. Their commitment shows even in this wine, their lowest level Beaujolais. Sure, it delivers plenty of the berry-like fruitiness, characteristic of wines from the region. … Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Casa Real” 1999
($61, Palm Bay Imports): This is Santa Rita’s flagship wine, and though the winery has released later vintages (including a tight but tasty 2003), the American importer is still selling the now fully ready to drink 1999. It’s delicious. With a compelling bouquet reminiscent of superior Bordeaux, and sweet, ripe fruit flavors, it offers impressive depth and length along with great balance. … Read more
Carmel Winery, Upper Galilee and Shomron (Israel) “Limited Edition” 2003
($65, Royal Wine Company): The winemaker uses fruit from all over Israel for this plush wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Petit Verdot (32%), Merlot (17%) and Cabernet Franc (1%). Attractive, subtle spice supplements the initial impression of plump black cherries. … Read more
Yatir, Judean Hills (Israel) “Yatir Forest” 2003
($60, Royal Wine Company): Yatir, rapidly becoming a producer to remember, makes three levels of wine. The Yatir Forest, a blend of mostly (82%) Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Merlot, is their top of the line. Big and bold, the ripe black fruit flavors marry with the moderate tannins to deliver a balanced wine that screams for beef.… Read more
Recanati, Galilee (Israel) Merlot 2004
($13, Palm Bay): Bright cherry flavors swamp your taste buds and then give way to 
alluring earthy elements. Not big and heavy, it shows a wine need not be muscular to be noticed. And on top of all that, it is a bargain.… Read more
Segal’s, Galil (Israel) Merlot Dovev Vineyard 2002
($30, Royal Wine Company): Although ripe fruit flavors dominate, intriguing gamy overtones peek though. The fine tannins give it nice structure without astringency. Still, its size and backbone means this Merlot is best at the table, not as a before-dinner drink.… Read more