($10): Charles Back continues to turn out well-priced solid wines with more character than the price suggests. This lively Rhône-like blend conveys hints of stone fruits buttressed by vibrant acidity. It’s simple and direct, but beautifully balanced with vivacity that keeps it interesting throughout a meal.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Arboleda, Aconcagua Valley (Chile) Shiraz 2006
($19, Frederick Wildman): Eduardo Chadwick, one of Chile’s top winemakers and owner of Arboleda, has always been a vigorous proponent of Shiraz, especially when grown in the Aconcagua Valley, a locale about 100 miles north of Santiago. This wine justifies his enthusiasm. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Western Cape (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
($9, Vineyard Brands): This vibrant, pleasantly pungent Sauvignon Blanc is a terrific value. Simple and direct, it delivers a clear–but not aggressive–herbaceous bite characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc. If there’s a more enjoyable $9 Sauvignon Blanc on the market, I’ve yet to find it.… Read more
Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Viognier 2007
($18, Vineyard Brands): Viognier can be a tough grape to vinify because its characteristic aromatics and flavors don’t emerge unless the grape is quite ripe, which can translate into a high and intrusive level of alcohol. This Spice Route rendition pulls it off nicely, with alluring hints of peaches and honeysuckle without heaviness or the burn of alcohol. … Read more
Finca Decero, Agrelo (Mendoza, Argentina) “Amano” 2006
($50, Vintus): The 2006 vintage was the first release for Finca Decero and it’s either beginner’s luck or great talent. After tasting their fabulous 2006 Cabernet (reviewed previously) and with Paul Hobbs as consultant, I suspect it’s the latter. This, their flagship wine, is a blend of primarily Malbec (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Petit Verdot and is a selection of their best barrels. … Read more
Clos Rougeard, Saumur-Champigny (Loire Valley, France) “Le Bourd” 2004
($112, Louis Dressner Selections): You read the price correctly. More than $100 a bottle for–of all things–a wine made from Cabernet Franc grown in Saumur-Champigny, not exactly France’s most famous viticultural area. But what an outstanding wine! Clos Rougeard is considered by most locals to be the area’s best producer. … Read more
Henry Fessy, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2007
($13, Louis Latour Inc.): The venerable Burgundy négociant, Maison Louis Latour, has just purchased this well-known Beaujolais producer. Although we can expect a bump up in quality as Latour takes control, this 2007 Fleurie, from one of the 10 named villages in Beaujolais, is already an engaging wine. … Read more
Tir Na N’Og, McLaren Vale (South Australia, Australia) Grenache Old Vines 2006
($32, Australian Premium Wine Collection): The tongue twisting name–‘land of youth’ in the aboriginal language–
should not prevent you for buying this wine. Not for the faint of heart, this wine’s ripe strawberry-like fruit flavor and its heady effect make a paradoxical combination that actually works with robust wintertime fare. … Read more
Oops, Central Valley (Chile) Carmenère 2007
($11, Schwartz Olcott Imports): The name remains annoying and the label remains incomprehensible at its attempt to be cute, but this Carmenère continues to improve with each successive vintage and offers terrific value. A bit of spice and herbal notes complement some dark berry-like fruit flavors. … Read more
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Private Bin” 2008
($18, Vineyard Brands): The pleasant bite of lime-like flavors and the accompanying zesty pungency screams Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The freshness and cutting aspect of this consistent crowd-pleaser is hard to beat, especially with simple seafood or Asian cuisine. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 27, 2009… Read more
Capel Vale, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2007
($22, Vintage New World): Looking for an excellent $20 Chardonnay? Look no further. If your image of Australian Chardonnay is that of an oaky blockbuster, this wine will change your perception. The Margaret River area of Western Australia has the potential to produce some of Australia’s most elegant wines and this one’s a good example.… Read more
Capel Vale, Mount Barker (Western Australia) Shiraz 2007
($22, Vintage New World): 
Wines from Peter Pratten’s Capel Vale property consistently fulfill the potential of Western Australia. Pratten, a radiologist by training before entering the wine business, has spent his medical career crisscrossing Western Australia, and as a dividend developed a clear knowledge of what varieties grow best in each locale.… Read more
Ferrer Bobet, Priorat (Spain) 2005
($45, Vintus): 
Judging from this wine, the first vintage of a joint venture of two friends — Sergi Ferrer-Salat and Raül Bobet — that they started in 2002, the project will be a success. As with many of the newer wines from this region, the indigenous varieties, Carignan and Grenache, predominate, with only a little Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend.… Read more
Bellingham, Coastal Region (South Africa) ‘Fair Maiden’ 2007
($18, Cape Wine Ventures): Whether the blend of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Verdelho (what, no kitchen sink?) is intentional or they just used what was left over, it works. Great floral aromatics and honeysuckle notes suggest it will be sweet, but it’s not. … Read more
Finca Decero, Agrelo (Mendoza, Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon Remolinos Vineyard 2006
($20, Vintus): 
Look no further for a great $20 red wine. The people behind this new project in Agrelo, a subregion of Mendoza, are either lucky or really know what they are doing. With succulent black fruit — hints of cassis — and a touch of earthiness, it is a study in power and elegance wrapped into one. … Read more
Bellingham, Coastal Region (South Africa) ‘Dragon’s Lair’ 2005
($26, Cape Wine Ventures): A typical Mediterranean blend of Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Viognier crushed together and co-fermented, this wine has impressive power without going over the top. The decision to age half the wine in one-year-old oak barrels (and the rest in new oak) helps keep the wine in balance. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) ‘Vignes Franches’ 2006
($63, Louis Latour Inc.): Always one of Latour’s best premier cru wines, the 2006 Beaune Vignes Franches is no exception. It’s classic red Burgundy from one of Beaune’s great vineyards: mid-weight, bright red fruit intertwined with a delicate leafy — almost mushroom-like — character. … Read more
The Chocolate Block, Western Cape (South Africa) 2007
($59, Vineyard Brands): Normally I don’t care for wines with these kinds of fanciful names, but 
given the unpronounceable name of the producer–Boekenhoutskloof–the rationale is clear and above reproach. It’s kind of a Rhône blend–Syrah (55%), Grenache (20%), Cinsault (5%) and Viognier (4%)–but then there’s Cabernet Sauvignon to round it out. … Read more
Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief 2006
($24, Louis Dressner Selections): The wines from Julienas, one of the 10 named villages–or crus–of Beaujolais typically have an attractive spice and rusticity which makes them one of my favorites from that region. Michel Tete captures that essential essence–spiced red fruit–in this beautifully balanced wine.… Read more
Michel Tete, Julienas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Domaine du Clos du Fief “Cuvée Prestige” 2006
($30, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tete makes serious Beaujolais. His wines dispel the notion that Beaujolais is simply grapey swill. He makes this Cuvée Prestige along with a regular bottling from the Domaine du Clos du Fief (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Domaine Coquelet, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2007
($20, Louis Dressner Selections): Damien Coquelet, only 20 years old, comes from a family–Descombes–whose name is synonymous with superb Beaujolais. This Chiroubles could be the poster child for the wines of that village. Very fragrant, with a delicate–almost lacey–minerality, it is not grapey at all. … Read more
Montecillo, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2005
($12, Underdog Wine Merchants): 
This is a great $12 wine. It delivers a discreet combination of fresh and dried cherry-like flavors with mild tannins that prevent it from seeming sweet. It’s the Spanish equivalent of what I call ‘pizza wine,’ which means it must be a ‘tapas wine.’ … Read more
Spice Route Winery, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvèdre 2006
($19, Vineyard Brands): This dense wine shows the attractively rustic side of Mourvèdre and delivers a good combination of Old World structure and New World fruit. The tannins are present, but not intrusive, and lend needed support for the ripe black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Rouge 2006
($28, Louis Latour Inc.): Although the grand and premier cru vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet produce three times as much white wine as red, its village wines are more often red than white and, like this one, are often very good values. This charming Pinot Noir-based wine delivers pure bright cherry-like flavors intertwined with a hint of leafiness. … Read more
Clos LaChance, Central Coast (California) Estate Vineyard Meritage Red Wine 2005
($50): Clos LaChance uses all five of the traditional Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc) grown in their home vineyard for their Meritage red wine. Despite a hefty dollop (almost 20%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec (12%), which helps explain the wine’s deep color and weightiness, it’s a well-balanced wine showing nicely integrated oak, black fruit-like flavors and spice even at this youthful stage. … Read more
Maximo, Vino de La Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2006
($10, Frederick Wildman): Grupo Baron de Ley, the Spanish company that owns the quality Rioja producers El Coto and Baron de Ley, also produces this more ‘modern’ style wine from the center of Spain. Its juicy red fruit flavors jump at you, but the black cherry acidity reminds you that its feet are style rooted in Spain. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay Reserve 2006
($30): It’s hard to imagine finding a more satisfying $30 Chardonnay. With this classy wine, you feel the effect of oak instead of being bombarded with it. There’s a subtle elegance lurking here, as opposed to a hit-you-over- the-head overtness. Ponzi has captured a minerality complemented–but not smothered–by a subtle creaminess. … Read more
The Goat Father, Western Cape (South Africa) 2006
($13, Vineyard Brands): This hodge-podge blend of Italian and French varieties (Barbera, Mourvèdre, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo and Nebbiolo) produces what I like to call a ‘pizza wine;’ a simple, but lively, everyday kind of beverage. This one delivers fresh red fruit flavors and mild tannins. … Read more
Fairview, Paarl (South Africa) Shiraz “The Beacon” 2005
($36): Long before Charles Back created his Goats do Roam label, he was making stellar wines at his Fairview property in Paarl, near Capetown. This Shiraz, named for a nearby surveyor’s beacon, is a big, ripe but well-balanced wine whose herbal aromas capture your immediate attention. … Read more
The Goats do Roam Wine Company, Coastal Region (South Africa) Shiraz – Pinotage “Goats in Villages” 2006
($14, Vineyard Brands): Charles Back’s whimsical labeling should not hide the fact that he puts serious wine in his bottles. This blend of roughly three-quarters Shiraz and one-quarter Pinotage, a grape virtually exclusive to South Africa, works very nicely. Bright spiciness offsets succulent black fruit in his supple wine. … Read more
Terres Dorees, Beaujolais (Burgundy, France) “l’Ancien de Jean-Paul Brun” 2007
($19): Jean-Paul Brun is one of Beaujolais’ treasures because of the consistent quality of the wines he makes. His crus of Beaujolais (some of them reviewed this week) are stunning, but his ‘simple’ Beaujolais is equally illuminating because it is so different from the all too often sweet and grapey industrial Beaujolais on the market. … Read more
Marques de Caceres, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2005
($16, Vineyard Brands): This blend of primarily (85%) Tempranillo (the remainder is Garnacha and Graciano) is a classically proportioned, mid-weight Rioja that delivers herbal elements intertwined with black cherry-like fruit flavors. Fine tannins complete the picture, and lip-smacking acidity keeps you coming back for more. … Read more
Katherine & Claude Marechal, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Gravel” 2006
($32, Louis Dressner Selections): Bourgogne Rouge–although a ‘simple’ appellation–can be an excellent buy in good vintages from serious producers, such as this one. It also serves an excellent introduction to red Burgundy and its contrast with the same variety from our West Coast, Pinot Noir. … Read more
Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2006
($35): A blend from 15 different vineyards scattered throughout Carneros, this is a classic expression of Pinot Noir from that region. It’s a balanced mixture of pure–but not sweet–red fruit flavors with hints of spice and earthy, savory notes. Mild, supple tannins allow for immediate enjoyment. … Read more
Robert Stemmler, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Ferguson Block 2005
($44): The Ferguson Block, located on the Sonoma side of Carneros, is part of Stemmler’s estate that was planted in the 1970s. The age of the vines undoubtedly contributes to the lovely complexity of the wine. Like all good Pinot Noir, this wine delivers more than just sweet fruit flavors, although there are plenty of those. … Read more
Saintsbury, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Brown Ranch 2006
($60): Richard Ward, one of the owners of Saintsbury, believes this is their ‘best estate vineyard.’ As good as their multi-vineyard Carneros blend is (also reviewed this week), the Brown Ranch bottling just has more of everything while maintaining impeccable balance. … Read more
Château Romassan, Bandol (Provence, France) 2002
($48, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
Acacia, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2006
($28): Acacia has an excellent and well-justified reputation for their Pinot Noir. This one, their ‘entry level’ wine, comes from fruit grown in several vineyards (as opposed to their several single vineyard bottlings) and represents a good introduction to their style, which combines subdued fruitiness with an alluring earthiness. … Read more
Cakebread Cellars, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($49): Although it is sourced from a relatively cool region, Carneros, which borders San Pablo Bay and is often blanketed by a cooling fog, this wine’s ripeness suggests a warmer area. This robust Pinot Noir combines pleasing, but slightly heavy, flavors of dried and fresh black cherries. … Read more
Ceja Vineyards, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($40): The Ceja family represents the American dream. The family emigrated from Mexico in the 1960s, worked hard in Napa Valley vineyards, saved money and in the 1980s, bought land in Carneros, where they now produce this mid-weight stylish Pinot Noir. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($55): Goldeneye is Duckhorn’s estate in Anderson Valley. It focuses on Pinot Noir from single vineyards, as well as this one, which is made from grapes from a variety of sources. A ripe and concentrated style of Pinot Noir, this one stops short of landing in what I refer to as ‘Pinot Syrah’ category. … Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir 2006
($19): Dick Erath was a pioneer in the Oregon wine industry when he planted his first vines about 40 years ago. Erath is still a leader in producing top-notch wines, especially Pinot Noir. This straightforward wine, made from purchased fruit from throughout the state, has simple, direct, cherry-like fruit flavors touched by a hint of earthiness. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Estate Selection” 2006
($36): A giant step up from Erath’s ‘Oregon’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week), this Estate Selection is serious stuff, a blend of the best wines from six of the estate’s vineyards in the Dundee Hills. This house has a deft hand with oak because it gives this wine a rich texture and added spice without intruding or detracting from the panoply of fruit flavors. … Read more
Erath, Dundee Hills (Oregon) Prince Hill Vineyard 2006
($45): Erath planted his Prince Hill vineyard in 1983, which means the vines now have reasonable age and helps explain the engaging complexity of this wine. As with Erath’s other Pinot Noirs, there is a judicious use of oak aging–less than half of the wine sees new oak barrels–so the grapes and earth, not the oak, speaks. … Read more
Erath, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Blanc 2006
($14): Lest you think Erath is a one-color show (four of their Pinot Noir are viewed this week), try this Pinot Blanc, a varietal that has great potential for producing insipid wine. Fermentation and aging solely in stainless steel tanks, captures delicate floral notes that complement its mid-weight body and zesty finish.… Read more
Erath, Oregon (United States) Pinot Gris 2007
($14): Richer than Erath’s Pinot Blanc, their Pinot Gris has nuances of apricots, peaches and other stone fruits. Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh, beautifully balanced, and carries the flavors into an extended finish. It is neither a vapid ‘Pinot Grigio’ nor a heavy and overdone ‘Pinot Gris.’… Read more
Erath, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Leland Vineyard 2005
($40): Erath has contracted the entire Pinot Noir crop from this 4-acre vineyard every year since 1987, five years after Bruce and Ginny Weber planted it. The wine has slightly more power than Erath’s Prince Hill Pinot Noir (reviewed this week), but maintains finesse, not coming close to the overdone, over extracted ‘Pinot Syrah’ style. … Read more
Sobon Estate, Amador County (California) Primitivo Reserve 2006
($24): Primitivo, according to many authorities, is the European equivalent of Zinfandel. With briary deep black fruit flavors, Sobon’s version is certainly Zinfandel-like. Big and almost overblown, it has an attractive rusticity. Spicy oak and slight heat in the finish–15.1% stated alcohol speaking-definitely means you’ll want this wine on a cold winter’s night.… Read more
Montevina, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Terra d’Oro” 2005
($18): This juicy Zinfandel carries the stated 14.5% alcohol well without notes of over ripeness or excessive extraction. Briary nuances balance the dense black fruit flavors. Still, it’s a big wine that Zinfandel fans should enjoy. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 18, 2008… Read more
Renwood, Amador County (California) Zinfandel “Grandpère” 2004
($40): Grandpère is the name of the vineyard, which according to Renwood has the oldest clone of Zinfandel in California. The age of the vines (130 years) certainly explains the uncommon complexity and subtlety–for Zinfandel–found in the wine. The heat in the finish of this robust–15.5% stated alcohol–Zinfandel sadly detracts from the otherwise lovely layers of ripe fruit, spice and even tobacco-like nuances.… Read more