Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine FL, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Le Chenin” 2010

($19, Daniel Johnnes Selection): Domaine FL, short for Fournier-Longchamps, has threaded the needle with this wine made from Chenin Blanc.  (French appellation laws generally prohibit grape names on labels.  Hence, Le Chenin is the proprietary name of the wine.)  The wine conveys the fruitiness and roundness–almost a hint of sweetness — that Chenin Blanc delivers supported by a lovely line of acidity that prevents it from being sweet. Read more

Achaval Ferrer, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2013

($25, Stoli Group USA): To my mind, Malbec is an overrated grape often producing a heavy monotonous red wine.  Thankfully, Achaval Ferrer’s is neither.   It’s certainly a robust meaty wine, but vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and imparts life.  There’s plenty of plumy black fruit — which does make for engaging pairing with charcoal grilled beef — but it’s a black cherry-like tartness in the finish that brings you back for another glass.Read more

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Karia” 2012

($34): Here’s another example of a renowned Napa Valley winery that has made their reputation on red wines turning out a fine Chardonnay.  In 1996, more than two decades after Warren Winiarski founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, he purchased the Arcadia Vineyard, which had originally been developed by Grgich Hills and was the source for some of their fine Chardonnays. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Olivet Lane 2011

($60): Wow is the first impression after tasting this wine.  Judging from this Chardonnay, Merry Edwards is as talented with that grape as she is with her exceptional Pinot Noir.  Although she’s made small quantities of Chardonnay from the Olivet Lane vineyard for a few years, the 2011 is only the second year it’s been available outside of the tasting room. Read more

J Vineyards & Winery, California (United States) Pinot Gris 2013

($16): J, known best for their stellar sparkling wines, have made Pinot Gris since 1996.  Indeed, they have three bottlings — this one, one from Russian River Valley grapes and a single vineyard one.  They’ve pretty much nailed this variety.  The “California” bottling has subtle peach-like nuances, bright acidity, and an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. Read more

José Antonio Mokoroa, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2013

($14, Polaner Selections): The Txakoli (“Chok-o-lee”) from Spain are the perfect antidote for summer’s heat and humidity.  With a refreshing and lively fizz, this low (11.5% stated alcohol) wine from Mokoroa is just what you want when the temperature climbs.  The hint of effervescence, initially surprising if one is unfamiliar with these wines, adds an unexpected charm. Read more

Mionetto, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV

($19, Mionetto USA): Valdobbiadene is a village within the Prosecco zone in northeastern Italy that historically has been recognized as home to better grapes because of its hillside vineyards.  The vineyards of Valdobbiadene escape the humidity of the plains and are cooler at night, which maintains the acidity of the grapes and imparts greater finesse to the wines. Read more

Mount Nelson, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012

($18, Wilson Daniels):  Ludovico Antinori, who with his brother Piero established Mount Nelson Winery in 2003, knows a thing or two about Sauvignon Blanc, having made an outstanding one at Ornellaia in Bolgheri for many years.  In addition to the typical, easily recognizable pungency and bite you’d expect from a Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region on the northern tip of New Zealand’s south island, the 2012 Mount Nelson has a subtle, but mouth-filling creaminess. Read more

Cerulli Spinozzi, Colli Aprutini IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino “Cortalto” 2013

($13, Banfi Vintners): It’s not just a cheese.  Pecorino (from “pecora,” the word for sheep in Italian) is also a grape native to Abruzzo and Marche, regions on the Eastern side of the Italian peninsula.  Enrico Cerulli Irelli, family proprietor of Cerulli Spinozzi, speculates that the grape got its name because sheep grazing on adjacent pastures would nibble at the vines. Read more

Snoqualmie, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2011

($20): As enthusiastic as I am for Snoqualmie’s regular Cabernet, the Reserve is even more eye-popping.  To reiterate, similar to Snoqualmie’s regular Cabernet, the quality of this Reserve Cabernet is extraordinary, considering the price.  It’s longer and more concentrated — filled with black fruit-like flavors, herbal notes and spice — but thankfully, it’s not one of those massive “killer” Cabernets. Read more

Planeta, DOC Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) Frappato 2013

($22, Palm Bay International): Planeta has made an utterly charming wine entirely from Frappato, a grape more often blended with Nero d’Avola for Sicily’s DOCG wine, Cerasuolo di Vittoria.   As a stand-alone, Planeta’s Frappato is a light to mid-weight juicy red-fruited wine with an alluring hint of smokiness and a faint — and welcome — bitterness in the finish. Read more