Category Archives: Reviews

Nieto Senetiner, Valle de Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontés 2013

($11, Foley Family Wines): Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, is gaining in popularity as consumers realize the zingy wine, such as this one, it can produce and, at a bargain price.  Fresh, clean and zippy, Nieto Senetiner’s curiously has a whiff of mintiness that lends roundness, which actually allows consumer to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif. Read more

Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($60): No doubt I will say more than once that the 2010 vintage for Brunello is outstanding — as good as it gets.  Lisini, a traditional producer who rarely falters, made one of the star wines of the vintage.  With an enormous initial aromatic impact, their 2010 delivers an alluring combination of flavors — earth and cherries — wrapped in firm, but polished, tannins. Read more

Caiarossa, IGP Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($85): The 2010 Caiarossa, an extraordinary wine and the best from this estate since its commercial debut with the 2004 vintage, shows how far this producer has come in a very short time. Owned by same Dutch family who own the Margaux classified growths Château Giscours and Château du Tertre, and whose general manager, Alexander Van Beek, runs those two Bordeaux properties, Caiarossa uses a seeming mishmash of grapes — Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even Alicante — to make this impressive Super Tuscan. Read more

Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013

($20, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of my favorite Tuscan producers, succeeded again with their 2013 Chianti Classico.   Not gussied up with new oak or Cabernet Sauvignon, Castellare di Castellina sticks with traditional techniques to produce an easy-to-recommend wine replete with herbal and earthy flavors that offset and complement its bright cherry signature. Read more

Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Carato” 2009

($32, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Carato, another Vernaccia di San Gimignano from the exemplary producer Montenidoli, is fermented and aged for a year in barrel before bottling.  The winemaking here is so precise that you don’t taste woodiness.  Rather, you feel the effect of wood on the wine — it’s a fuller, richer version of Vernaccia di San Gimignano that retains finesse and vigor. Read more

Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Fiore” 2012

($25, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Montenidoli is one of the very best producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  Anyone who has been disappointed by this category of Italian white should taste their wines to see how grand this DOCG can be. Montenidoli makes three Vernaccia di San Gimignano; this one, made from free-run juice and labeled Fiore (flower) is, indeed, floral, fresh and clean. Read more

Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($34, Dalla Terra Direct): Since the 2010 vintage was superb in Chianti Classico and Badia a Coltibuono is one of the star producers in that region, it is not surprising that this wine is stellar.  Not boisterous, this is a classically proportioned Chianti Classico Riserva with great elegance and a seamless combination of bright red fruit flavors and earthy notes. Read more

G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) “Coste e Fossati” 2013

($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto.  This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. Read more

Viña Carmen, Colchagua Valley (Rapel Valley, Chile) Carmenere Gran Reserva 2011

($15, Trinchero): Is it just a coincidence that a producer named Carmen should excel with Carmenere, which is arguably Chile’s national grape?  Coincidence or not, they’ve excelled with this 2011.  The Apalta area, one of the most famous ones in the Colchagua Valley, supplied the raw materials and the winemaking team at Viña Carmen turned them into excellent wine. Read more

Agricole Vallone, Salice Salentino Riserva (Puglia, Italy) “Vereto” 2008

($15, Quintessential Wines): Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s “boot,” is home to some amazing and well-priced wines.  This one, and Vallone’s Vigna Flamino, are two that should not be missed because they offer incredible enjoyment at an affordable price.  The Salice Salentino Riserva, made entirely from Negroamaro, is a hefty wine, but not overdone, with an alluring subtle bitterness in the finish. Read more

Elvio Cogno, Nascetta di Novello Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) Novello “Anas-Cëtta” 2013

($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it.  Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco.  Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. Read more

Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012

($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna.  Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. Read more