($28, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.): Chorey-les-Beaune, a small village just north of Beaune, is a sleeper location for value packed red Burgundy, such as this one. Lying just off the main Dijon Beaune road, Chorey, as it’s sometimes called, is off most everybody’s radar screen. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Camila” 2013
($10, Foley Family Wines): Full disclosure, Malbec is not my favorite wine because all too often I find it overblown and just too big. So imagine my surprise when I ran across this one. It’s refined — not a word commonly used to describe Malbec — with a lovely texture and freshness. … Read more
Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza (Argentina) Bonardo 2012
($13, Foley Family Wines): Bonarda may, indeed, rival Malbec for Argentina’s top red grape. This extraordinary value example shows why. A hearty red with even a hint of tarriness, this Bonarda has polished tannins, making it a great choice for robust beef dish now. … Read more
Nieto Senetiner, Valle de Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontés 2013
($11, Foley Family Wines): Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, is gaining in popularity as consumers realize the zingy wine, such as this one, it can produce and, at a bargain price. Fresh, clean and zippy, Nieto Senetiner’s curiously has a whiff of mintiness that lends roundness, which actually allows consumer to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Nieto Senetiner, Mendoza (Argentina) Pinot Noir 2013
($13, Foley Family Wines): Pinot Noir is not likely to replace Malbec as Argentina’s signature red grape, but this wine will still get your attention. Thankfully, not overworked, this Pinot Noir is fruity and fresh. To their credit, Nieto Senetiner is keeping it simple with this bright Pinot Noir, not trying to make a bargain-priced wine into something “important.” … Read more
Bolla, Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso (Veneto, Italy) “La Poiane” 2011
($15, Banfi): Valpolicella is often considered a not terribly substantial light red wine. This wine erases that image. Think of Bolla’s La Poiane as a Valpolicella on steroids. The grapes come from the best area of Valpolicella (Classico) and have attained better ripeness (Superiore). … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($22, Banfi): Rosso di Montalcino, often dubbed “Baby Brunello,” gives consumers a glimmer of the grandeur of the more prestigious appellation at a more affordable price. And, unlike Brunello itself, wines carrying the Rosso di Montalcino name are ready to drink upon release.… Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($14): Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2013 Chianti Classico is a riper and fleshier rendition, without going over the top. It’s a very clean and pure expression of Chianti Classico with an attractive succulence in the finish. Freshness in the finish holds it all together. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($19): Castello di Ama, a top producer of Chianti Classico, make a splendid range of wines from this one, to their Chianti Classico Riserva to their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. This 2013 is a traditionally framed Chianti Classico that conveys a mixture of dark slightly bitter cherries and a savory earthiness. … Read more
Máté, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($45): Máté, a relative newcomer to Montalcino being founded in the 1990s, made a stellar Brunello in 2010. Powerful, without being overdone, their 2010 is more fruit forward and accessible than many of the other Brunello from the 2010 vintage. A dark core of minerality balances and enhances the ripe dark cherry fruit favors. … Read more
Mocali, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($40): Mocali made it into my list of top Brunello of 2010 with its impressive aromatics and gorgeous initial impact of dried and ripe fresh cherries offset by dense dark minerality. A lovely firmness and hint of bitterness round out this beautifully balanced wine. … Read more
Mastrojanni, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Mastrojanni’s 2010 Brunello, one of the top wines of the vintage, has gorgeous power balanced by suave elegance. An engaging floral aspect suggests greatness. What follows doesn’t disappoint. Polished, almost sweet, tannins surround a core of dark earthy minerality. Succulent dark black cherry-like flavors emerge with time. … Read more
Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): No doubt I will say more than once that the 2010 vintage for Brunello is outstanding — as good as it gets. Lisini, a traditional producer who rarely falters, made one of the star wines of the vintage. With an enormous initial aromatic impact, their 2010 delivers an alluring combination of flavors — earth and cherries — wrapped in firm, but polished, tannins. … Read more
Simonnet Febrve, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Clos 2012
($80, Louis Latour USA): Chablis was more successful than the Côte d’Or for white wines in 2012. Indeed, the 2012 vintage produced excellent Chablis. The Simonnet Febrve style of tightly wound, mineraly-infused, bracing wines is ideally suited to this vintage, which produced ripe grapes.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Laforêt” 2012
($14, Dreyfus Ashby & Co.): The firm of Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best, is still family owned and operated. Though they own vineyards extensively throughout the region, they also have a talent for buying grapes and wines from other growers, blending them as needed, and bottling them under the Drouhin name. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Angel Wing” 2011
($90): A tribute to her son, Warren, who died in 2006, this is a monumental Pinot Noir, in the best sense of the word. One whiff predicts its grandeur. What follows is a glorious explosion of flavors — smoky, fruity, earthy — that flow seamlessly one into another.… Read more
Caiarossa, IGP Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($85): The 2010 Caiarossa, an extraordinary wine and the best from this estate since its commercial debut with the 2004 vintage, shows how far this producer has come in a very short time. Owned by same Dutch family who own the Margaux classified growths Château Giscours and Château du Tertre, and whose general manager, Alexander Van Beek, runs those two Bordeaux properties, Caiarossa uses a seeming mishmash of grapes — Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even Alicante — to make this impressive Super Tuscan. … Read more
Castello di Uzzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($18): The wines from Castello di Uzzano always show well at the comprehensive tasting of Chianti Classico held in Florence every year. They use only Sangiovese — Cabernet need not apply — for their Chianti Classico and avoid small oak barrels to allow the flavors of the region to shine. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($20, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of my favorite Tuscan producers, succeeded again with their 2013 Chianti Classico. Not gussied up with new oak or Cabernet Sauvignon, Castellare di Castellina sticks with traditional techniques to produce an easy-to-recommend wine replete with herbal and earthy flavors that offset and complement its bright cherry signature. … Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($25): Paolo de Marchi, who, along with his family, owns Isole e Olena, and is responsible for the wines, is a thoughtful, ever-questioning man who makes exceptional wines. Rare, perhaps unique, in the region, he makes no Chianti Classico Riserva — only this one and his Super Tuscan, Cepparello, which is made entirely from Sangiovese and which is truly super. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Ravera 2010
($68): Vajra’s Ravera comes from the Barolo commune (subzone) where the two different soil types of the Barolo DOCG meet. Hence, experts say that wines from this area are the most complete Barolo because, reflecting both soils, they exhibit both power and grace. … Read more
Luigi Baudana, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cerretta 2010
($80): The Baudana family owns a small, 10-acre estate comprised of prized vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba, a subzone of the Barolo DOCG known for powerful wines. Since 2009, G. D. Vajra, small but one of Barolo’s top producers, has been responsible for tending the vineyards and making the wines. … Read more
Carussin, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Asinoi” 2013
($17, The Vine Collective): Carussin, a family run estate founded in 1927, focuses on Barbera. This one — Asinoi, an illusion to donkeys, which they also raise — is a blend from four of their vineyards. Despite its fruit-filled profile and its concentration, it’s neither sweet nor jammy. … Read more
Carussin, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) Lie Vi 2013
($20, The Vine Collective): Carussin’s Barbera labeled Lie Vi shows the importance of old vines. From a single vineyard whose vines average about 40 years, it delivers more purity, complexity and depth without losing any of the energy of their regular — Asinoi — bottling. … Read more
Drappier, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs NV
($51, Dreyfus Ashby): Few houses make a non-vintage blanc de blancs because Chardonnay, the only grape allowed for that moniker, is not widely planted in Champagne and most producers need it to balance their blends. Fortunately, Drappier does. Creamy with a firm backbone, it delivers a paradoxical combination of richness and austerity that’s hard to explain. … Read more
Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Carato” 2009
($32, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Carato, another Vernaccia di San Gimignano from the exemplary producer Montenidoli, is fermented and aged for a year in barrel before bottling. The winemaking here is so precise that you don’t taste woodiness. Rather, you feel the effect of wood on the wine — it’s a fuller, richer version of Vernaccia di San Gimignano that retains finesse and vigor. … Read more
Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Fiore” 2012
($25, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Montenidoli is one of the very best producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Anyone who has been disappointed by this category of Italian white should taste their wines to see how grand this DOCG can be. Montenidoli makes three Vernaccia di San Gimignano; this one, made from free-run juice and labeled Fiore (flower) is, indeed, floral, fresh and clean. … Read more
Montenidoli, Toscana Rosso IGT (Italy) “Sono Montenidoli” 2007
($55, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Since Montenidoli is one of the star producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, their red wines, such as this IGT Toscana, are often overlooked. That’s a mistake, since this one, labeled redundantly Sono Montenidoli for emphasis, is a sleeper of a Super Tuscan. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($34, Dalla Terra Direct): Since the 2010 vintage was superb in Chianti Classico and Badia a Coltibuono is one of the star producers in that region, it is not surprising that this wine is stellar. Not boisterous, this is a classically proportioned Chianti Classico Riserva with great elegance and a seamless combination of bright red fruit flavors and earthy notes. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($14, Dalla Terra Direct): This Chianti Classico reminds us that Badia a Coltibuono consistently makes attractive wines. The vintage was difficult in the Chianti Classico region because of less-than-perfect weather. Nonetheless, Badia a Coltibuono has fashioned a traditionally framed — that is, not overdone — Chianti Classico. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Dolcetto d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) “Coste e Fossati” 2013
($26): G. D. Vajra, one of my favorite Barolo producers, also makes excellent wines from other traditional Piedmont grapes, such as this Dolcetto. This is an unusual Dolcetto because the vines are over 100 years old and they are planted in a two vineyards — Coste and Fossati — that actually lie in the Barolo DOCG and could be planted with Nebbiolo and sold at a far higher price. … Read more
Mirafiore, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Paiagallo” 2010
($80, Domaine Select Wine Estates): Here’s another example of the stature of the 2010 vintage in Barolo. Serralunga, the village within the Barolo DOCG zone where the Paiagallo vineyard is located, is known for powerful wines. Mirafiore’s certainly fits that description.… Read more
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2010
($85): Cannubi is one of the truly great vineyards in the Barolo zone. If there were a Burgundy-like classification system of vineyards in Barolo, Cannubi would clearly be awarded the equivalent of Grand Cru status. Combine grapes from this vineyard, the stunning 2010 vintage, and an excellent producer and… bingo, you have a stellar wine. … Read more
Damilano, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) 2013
($17): I admit it. I love good Barbera. Along with Dolcetto, another workhorse grape and wine from Piedmont, Barbera is often my go-to choice at Italian restaurants because it meshes so nicely with food and almost always offers good value. Damilano (an estate that also made excellent Barolo in 2010) made a 2013 Barbera d’Asti that’s easy to embrace. … Read more
Viña Carmen, Colchagua Valley (Rapel Valley, Chile) Carmenere Gran Reserva 2011
($15, Trinchero): Is it just a coincidence that a producer named Carmen should excel with Carmenere, which is arguably Chile’s national grape? Coincidence or not, they’ve excelled with this 2011. The Apalta area, one of the most famous ones in the Colchagua Valley, supplied the raw materials and the winemaking team at Viña Carmen turned them into excellent wine. … Read more
Marques de Caceres, Rioja (Spain) Blanco 2009
($9, Vineyard Brands): To most consumers, Rioja means red. And to be fair, the vast amount of it is. Until the last decade or so, the white wine produced in Rioja was not popularity here because it was often oxidized and tired. … Read more
Sartori, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brà 2008
($55, Banfi): This is a beautifully balanced young Amarone showing the potential of this great DOCG. Not particularly tannic, but youthful because of its tightly wound structure, a hint of its grandeur still peeks out. This is a serious Amarone with an enticing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Tascante, Sicilia IGT (Italy) “Ghiaia Nera” 2012
($22, Dalla Terra Direct): Tascante is the name of the Mount Etna project of Tasca d’Almerita, one of the locomotives that have brought Sicilian wines to the world’s attention. (The name is an amalgamation of Tasca appended to Etna, spelled backwards.) … Read more
Agricole Vallone, Salice Salentino Riserva (Puglia, Italy) “Vereto” 2008
($15, Quintessential Wines): Puglia, the “heel” of Italy’s “boot,” is home to some amazing and well-priced wines. This one, and Vallone’s Vigna Flamino, are two that should not be missed because they offer incredible enjoyment at an affordable price. The Salice Salentino Riserva, made entirely from Negroamaro, is a hefty wine, but not overdone, with an alluring subtle bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Agricole Vallone, Brindisi Riserva (Puglia, Italy) Vigna Flaminio 2008
($15, Quintessential Wines): Similar to Vallone’s Salice Salentino Riserva, this wine is also a wonderfully expressive gem from Puglia. A blend of Negroamaro (80%) and Montepulciano, it’s slightly less dense and a touch brighter and more energetic than its stable mate. … Read more
Elvio Cogno, Nascetta di Novello Langhe (Piedmont, Italy) Novello “Anas-Cëtta” 2013
($28, Wilson Daniels): It takes a bit of work to sort out the label, but it’s worth it. Starting at the top, Elvio Cogno is a red-hot producer in Piedmont best known for their Barolo and Barbaresco. Nascetta is an obscure variety from the Langhe thought by some to be related to Vermentino, which they’ve had in their Novello vineyard for a couple of decades. … Read more
Damilano, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Lecinquevigne” 2010
($35): Rarely have I read as much unanimity regarding the stature of a vintage as I have concerning the 2010 Barolo. And now, having tasted a fair number of them myself, I agree — it’s a consistently great vintage. Damilano is a well-known producer who bottles several single vineyard Barolos, which are captivating in 2010. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “La Ciboise” 2013
($15, Terlato Wines International): Though technically part of the Rhône, the Luberon is cool because of its elevation, with the harvest a couple of weeks later than Châteauneuf du Pape. The cooler climate likely explains the bright profile of this zippy wine. … Read more
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2012
($31, Kermit Lynch): Marsannay, sitting at the northern most boundary of the Côte d’Or, is another great appellation for authentic, well-priced Burgundy. Since Marsannay is not a prestigious appellation, many of its red wines are ready to drink soon after release. … Read more
Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2011
($36, Martine’s Wines): Marsannay received appellation status only in 1987. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broader Bourgogne appellation. Growers in Marsannay have submitted an application to the French authorities to classify some vineyards as Premier Cru. … Read more
Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012
($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna. Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. … Read more
Mercer Estates, Yakima Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($14): This is another pleasant surprise from the category of under $14 a bottle Sauvignon Blanc tasted blind at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Nicely pungent, it delivers a nice bite without going overboard. It has a remarkable finish, especially at this price.… Read more
Steelhead Vineyards, North Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($13): One of the great things I love about judging at wine competitions is the opportunity to taste wines blind that I might not otherwise run across. And often, the surprises are extremely pleasant, as in this case, with a wine in the under $14 category of Sauvignon Blanc at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. … Read more
Wild Oats, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($15): Robert Oatley, the iconic Australian winemaker who founded the famous and widely popular Hunter Valley-based Rosemount Estate wine company, is the man behind Wild Oats. Using purchased fruit — as he did for years at Rosemount — his team has produced a value-packed California Pinot Noir.… Read more
Bellingham Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine “The Bernard Series” 2013
($20): South Africa is home to some of the best Chenin Blanc in the world. Indeed, aside from the Loire Valley, I can think of nowhere that produces such high quality Chenin Blanc so consistently. It should be that country’s signature white grape. … Read more