($15, Terlato Wines International): Though technically part of the Rhône, the Luberon is cool because of its elevation, with the harvest a couple of weeks later than Châteauneuf du Pape. The cooler climate likely explains the bright profile of this zippy wine. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
René Bouvier, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies Vieilles Vignes 2012
($31, Kermit Lynch): Marsannay, sitting at the northern most boundary of the Côte d’Or, is another great appellation for authentic, well-priced Burgundy. Since Marsannay is not a prestigious appellation, many of its red wines are ready to drink soon after release. … Read more
Domaine Charles Audoin, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Les Longeroies 2011
($36, Martine’s Wines): Marsannay received appellation status only in 1987. Prior to that date, the wines were sold under the broader Bourgogne appellation. Growers in Marsannay have submitted an application to the French authorities to classify some vineyards as Premier Cru. … Read more
Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012
($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna. Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. … Read more
Mercer Estates, Yakima Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($14): This is another pleasant surprise from the category of under $14 a bottle Sauvignon Blanc tasted blind at this year’s San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Nicely pungent, it delivers a nice bite without going overboard. It has a remarkable finish, especially at this price.… Read more
Steelhead Vineyards, North Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($13): One of the great things I love about judging at wine competitions is the opportunity to taste wines blind that I might not otherwise run across. And often, the surprises are extremely pleasant, as in this case, with a wine in the under $14 category of Sauvignon Blanc at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. … Read more
Wild Oats, Edna Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($15): Robert Oatley, the iconic Australian winemaker who founded the famous and widely popular Hunter Valley-based Rosemount Estate wine company, is the man behind Wild Oats. Using purchased fruit — as he did for years at Rosemount — his team has produced a value-packed California Pinot Noir.… Read more
Bellingham Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vine “The Bernard Series” 2013
($20): South Africa is home to some of the best Chenin Blanc in the world. Indeed, aside from the Loire Valley, I can think of nowhere that produces such high quality Chenin Blanc so consistently. It should be that country’s signature white grape. … Read more
Giesen, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($14): Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand now enjoy a world wide reputation for quality and for the palate electrifying zing they deliver. What’s unusual is to find one with those qualities at this price. Giesen’s 2014 has an alluring lime-like citrus character that gives it Marlborough’s hallmark cutting edginess, while not screaming or assaulting the palate. … Read more
Cantina Mesa, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi (Italy) “Buio Buio” 2010
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers): Made from the Carignano del Sulcis grape, the local name for Carignan grown in the Sulcis region of southwestern Sardinia, Buio Buio is a name to remember. For a vigorous and robust red, it has surprising finesse. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “La Grande Roche” 2012
($25, Louis Latour USA): Montagny is an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise that is home to some excellent white Burgundies, such as this one. Latour has combined the ripeness of the vintage with a steely backbone that keeps it fresh and lively throughout a meal. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2013
($16, Kobrand Wine And Spirits):
It’s no surprise that Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, makes a fine “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. A blend of Chardonnay grown in the Côte d’Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Macon, it’s not so simple and is a great value.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2012
($24, Louis Latour USA): Marsannay, now practically a suburb of Dijon, is the northern most outpost of the Côte de Nuits. With no classified vineyards — but deserving of some — the village offers the best value for red wines from the entire Côte d’Or, in my opinion. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, IGP Ardèche (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardèche” 2012
($15, Louis Latour USA): Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Burgundy négociant founded over 200 years ago, branched out into the Ardèche, a sleepy area of central France, 25 years ago to have a go with Chardonnay there. It was their first venture outside of Burgundy and continues to be a resounding success because of the outstanding value of the wines they produce there. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (California) Pinot Noir 2012
($39): With a forty year history of working with Pinot Noir, it’s no surprise that Merry Edwards is one of California’s star producers of that varietal. While her single vineyard bottlings show the diversity of sites, this one from the Sonoma Coast is a great introduction to her engaging style. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2012
($60): Merry Edwards and her husband, Ken Coopersmith, own this vineyard. Though the glossy texture is similar to the Georganne bottling, the darker, riper and denser flavors distinguish Coopersmith from the rest of her single vineyard Pinot Noir. It’s a bigger, but no less elegant, wine. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2012
($57): One of the reasons I admire Merry Edwards is because she makes Pinot Noir that reflect their origins — she is not trying to make red Burgundy. To be sure, she understands the subtlety and delicacy of Pinot Noir but also knows that grape expresses itself differently in the Russian River Valley than in the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2012
($62): Though similarly plush and polished, a thread of red fruit flavors is woven into the fabric of the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir, which sets it apart from both the Coopersmith and Georganne bottlings. At this stage, with its charming subtleties, the Olivet Lane is the most expressive of her these three single vineyard bottlings. … Read more
Bodegas Bilbainas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Pomal” 2010
($21): Befitting a Rioja Reserva, there’s healthy dose of savory non fruit flavors that adds complexity and balances the red and black fruitiness of this Tempranillo-based wine. Indeed, it’s the earthy quality in this mid-weight traditionally framed wine that is captivating. … Read more
Bodega la Bastida, Rioja (Spain) “R & G” 2010
($26, Kysela Père et Fils): Though the producer is Bodega la Bastida, make no mistake, the names to remember are Michel Rolland, the internationally renowned oenologist who advising leading Bordeaux estates, and Javier Galarreta, a Spanish wine entrepreneur — hence the “R & G” emblazoned across the label. … Read more
Bodegas Valtravieso, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “R & G” 2010
($26, Kysela Père et Fils): A blend of mostly (90%) Tempranillo and Merlot, this, like their Rioja, is a joint venture between the world-famous enologist, Michel Rolland, a Spanish wine entrepreneur, Javier Galarreta, and Bodegas Valtravieso, from whose 200 acres Rolland selected the grapes. … Read more
G. D. Vajra, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2011
($23, The Country Vintner): Vajra is a top Barolo producer, so when I spied their Barbera on a list at East 12th Osteria, an excellent, but under-the-radar restaurant with a thoughtful wine list in New York City, it was an obvious choice. … Read more
Domaine Marc Morey, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Robert Katcher Selections): This wine caught my attention at Island Creek Oyster Bar (an excellent Boston restaurant with an eclectic wine list) because I was unaware that Marc Morey, a top producer based in Chassagne-Montrachet, owned vineyards in Rully (a lesser known village in the Côte Chalonnaise). … Read more
Concha y Toro, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Don Melchor” 2010
($125, Excelsior Wine and Spirits): Don Melchor is the flagship wine of Concha y Toro, one of Chile’s leading producers. It is always ones of Chile’s best wines. And the 2010 is no exception — it is simply stunning and all the more so as it sits in the glass. … Read more
Truchard Vineyards, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2013
($30): Tony Truchard and his wife Jo Ann were early advocates of the virtues of the Carneros region of Napa Valley when they started to acquire their now 400 acres in the 1960s. It turns out the cool climate of Carneros is ideal for their Chardonnay, a consistently balanced wine. … Read more
Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($14, Carolina Wine Company): Paul Cluver, a family owned and run vineyard and winery, lies about 40 miles southeast of Cape Town in the cool Elgin Valley. They specialize in varietals that thrive in cooler climates, such as this Sauvignon Blanc, which has a seamless mixture of fruit and pungency. … Read more
Paul Cluver, Elgin (South Africa) Riesling 2012
($22, Carolina Wine Company): The location of Paul Cluver winery in the cool Elgin Valley southeast of Cape Town explains why they excel with Riesling, a variety that thrives in cooler climes. This dry one has a touch of minerality to accompany the bracing lime-like acidity. … Read more
Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “Gouverneur Saint-Auban” 2013
($25): Domaine de la Citadelle, one of the top producers in the Luberon and a name to remember, makes a range of wines. This wine, labeled Gouverneur Saint-Auban, is their top white (They also make a stunning red under the same moniker). … Read more
Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “Le Châtaignier” 2013
($17): Though the Luberon is known mostly for its red wines, notable whites are popping up in that appellation. This one, from one of the region’s top producers, is a blend of mostly (70%) Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Domaine de la Citadelle has avoided heaviness, something that plagues many Rhône whites, in this wine. … Read more
Domaine de la Citadelle, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Viognier de la Citadelle” 2013
($17): The regulations for the AOP (formerly known as AOC) Luberon require the wines be made from a blend of grapes because it’s the tradition in the region. That’s why this one, made entirely from Viognier, a white grape whose home is the northern Rhône, but thrives at Domaine de la Citadelle, carries the IGP designation instead of a more prestigious AOP. … Read more
Domaine de la Citadelle, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Artemes” 2013
($22): This wine has, not surprisingly given the blend of Grenache and Syrah, considerable muscle for a rosé. A touch of structure and spice balances the density perfectly. Alexis Rousset-Rouard, who runs the domaine, puts it nicely, “It’s a rosé for September instead of May.” … Read more
Chateau la Canorgue, Luberon (Rhône Valley, France) 2011
($17, Polaner Selections): Though located in the southern Rhône — but really in the heart of Provence — the Luberon is cooler than one would imagine because of its elevation. That explains why Syrah, a variety found more in the northern Rhone, is such an important component of the blends. … Read more
Villa Ponciago, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) La Réserve 2009
($20, Henriot, Inc): Fleurie, similar to the other nine named villages or cru of the Beaujolais region, carries its own appellation. Indeed, there’s no reference to Beaujolais on Villa Ponciago’s label. And that’s probably just as well because this wine is as far away from the typical, slightly pejorative, image of Beaujolais. … Read more
Concha y Toro, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Marques de Casa Concha” 2012
($22, Excelsior Wine and Spirits): Cabernet is king in the Maipo Valley and especially Puente Alto region, which explains why some of Chile’s finest Cabernet-based wines carry this appellation. For example, Don Melchor, the iconic — and expensive ($100+) — wine from Concha y Toro, one of the country’s leading producers, hails from Puente Alto. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Estate Grown 2012
($42): Comparing Grgich Hills Estate’s 2012 Chardonnay with their 2013 Sauvignon Blanc puts the limitation of a numerical scoring system for rating wines into sharp relief. Since I scored the Sauvignon Blanc slightly higher than their Chardonnay that must mean that I think it’s a better wine, right? … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Essence, Miljenko’s Selection” 2013
($55): Mike Grgich embarrassed the French judges in 1976 with the Montelena Chardonnay he made that took first place in the famous Judgment of Paris. If he had been making this Sauvignon Blanc at the time, I’m sure it would have done equally well. … Read more
Bonterra, Mendocino County (California) Viognier 2013
($16): Bonterra, a label established by Fetzer in 1990, prides itself on making wine exclusively from organic grapes. Indeed, according to the California Sustainable Winemaking Alliance, it’s the number one selling brand made from organic grapes. This 2013 Viognier helps explain why. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Petite Sirah Miljenko’s Vineyard 2010
($65): Opulent and generous — it is Petite Sirah, after all — Grgich Hills Estate’s 2010 has elegance, not a word usually used to describe that varietal. Its elegance really shouldn’t be surprising because if anyone can make a stylish Petite Sirah, it’s Mike Grgich’s winemaking team. … Read more
Jackson Estate, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Stich” 2013
($20): The name of the wine, Stich, pays tribute to the Stichbury family who planted the vines almost 30 years ago, almost an eternity for Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough. The distinctive, piercing Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc aroma and bite is readily apparent. … Read more
Alois Lageder, IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Alois Lageder, one of the Alto Adige’s greatest producers, makes a host of stunning single vineyard wines. They also make lower priced wines, like this one, from grapes grown in a broader area that still transmit the character of the variety and the region. … Read more
Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Comtes des Champagne” Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005
($135, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Taittinger’s top Champagne, Comtes des Champagne is a Blanc de Blancs made from Chardonnay grown exclusively in Grand Cru villages. While the Comtes des Champagne is always one of the great prestige bottlings from the region, the 2005 is particularly noteworthy because it retains incredible vivacity despite the ripeness of that vintage. … Read more
Pascal Doquet, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru 2002
($90, Robert Katcher Selections): Blanc de Blancs Champagne is rare, comprising only about five percent of all Champagne, and expensive since Chardonnay is planted only in the best sites — on the chalky soils of the small (8,000 acres) of the Côte des Blancs. … Read more
Marion-Bosser, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
($55, Loubaton Imports): This producer’s Champagne was previously unknown to me. That’s my loss and I now will try to make up for lost time. Extra Brut Champagne is an extremely tough and expensive category to produce. There can be no compromise on the quality of the grapes because the extremely low dosage means that there’s little sugar to cover up whatever flaws are present. … Read more
Pol Roger, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004
($120, Frederick Wildman): Pol Roger is one my favorite Champagne producers. Their non-vintage bottling is consistently appealing and always well priced. They are a small producer among the Grande Marque (big name) Champagne houses with only about 1.2 million bottles annually (Moët and Chandon, the largest house produces 20+ million bottles annually). … Read more
El Coto, Rioja Blanco (Spain) 2012
($12, Frederick Wildman): Rioja Blanco — yes, you read that correctly. Though 95% of wine in Spain’s famed Rioja region is red, a small — and shrinking — amount of Viura is planted as growers replace that white grape with Tempranillo. … Read more
Bodegas Muriel, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 2001
($30, Quintessential Wines): One of the great things about Rioja is their tradition of aging wine at the winery and then releasing it when it’s mature. Regulations require a Gran Reserva, which are made only in the best vintages, to be aged for a minimum of five years before release. … Read more
Domaine de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) 2011
($30, Kermit Lynch): Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a unique fortified sweet wine, has long been held in high regard, having received appellation status in 1945 and elevated to a cru, comparable to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005. Domaine de Durban, one of the appellation’s top producers, makes a consistently glorious traditionally styled wine. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2012
($95, Louis Latour USA): Despite the concentration of Latour’s whites in 2012, the wines still reflect their origins. This wine has a particularly stony edginess that screams Puligny-Montrachet and distinguishes it from the slightly creamier Meursault. Like Latour’s Meursault Premier Cru, Les Truffières has a welcome vibrancy that balances its riches, amplifies its finish and puts its refinement into sharp relief. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2012
($70, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top-notch producers, hit a bull’s eye with their 2012s. The vintage produced concentrated wines and capturing acidity, especially for the whites, was a challenge. Latour succeeded brilliantly. This Meursault has a beautiful, yet not overripe, density for a premier cru in 2012. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2012
($155, Louis Latour USA): Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, makes sensational wines year in and year out from that vineyard. Indeed, in my opinion, there is no better producer of Corton-Charlemagne. As expected from Grand Cru white Burgundy, Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne bottlings evolve gracefully and improve over a decade or two. … Read more