Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Bertagna, Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) “Les Dames Huguettes” 2012

($29): One way to find well-priced Burgundy (no, that’s not an oxymoron) is to choose a down-market appellation from a top-notch producer, such as Domaine Bertagna.  Although Les Dames Huguettes lies in the appellation of Hautes Côtes de Nuits, just west (up and behind) the escarpment of the Côte d’Or, the vineyard itself still lies within the boundaries of the village of Nuits St Georges. Read more

Giesen, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014

($14): Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of New Zealand now enjoy a world wide reputation for quality and for the palate electrifying zing they deliver.  What’s unusual is to find one with those qualities at this price.  Giesen’s 2014 has an alluring lime-like citrus character that gives it Marlborough’s hallmark cutting edginess, while not screaming or assaulting the palate. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, IGP Ardèche (France) Chardonnay “Grand Ardèche” 2012

($15, Louis Latour USA): Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Burgundy négociant founded over 200 years ago, branched out into the Ardèche, a sleepy area of central France, 25 years ago to have a go with Chardonnay there.  It was their first venture outside of Burgundy and continues to be a resounding success because of the outstanding value of the wines they produce there. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2012

($57): One of the reasons I admire Merry Edwards is because she makes Pinot Noir that reflect their origins — she is not trying to make red Burgundy.  To be sure, she understands the subtlety and delicacy of Pinot Noir but also knows that grape expresses itself differently in the Russian River Valley than in the Côte d’Or. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2012

($62): Though similarly plush and polished, a thread of red fruit flavors is woven into the fabric of the Merry Edwards Olivet Lane Pinot Noir, which sets it apart from both the Coopersmith and Georganne bottlings. At this stage, with its charming subtleties, the Olivet Lane is the most expressive of her these three single vineyard bottlings.  Read more

Domaine de la Citadelle, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Viognier de la Citadelle” 2013

($17): The regulations for the AOP (formerly known as AOC) Luberon require the wines be made from a blend of grapes because it’s the tradition in the region. That’s why this one, made entirely from Viognier, a white grape whose home is the northern Rhône, but thrives at Domaine de la Citadelle, carries the IGP designation instead of a more prestigious AOP. Read more

Concha y Toro, Puente Alto (Maipo Valley, Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Marques de Casa Concha” 2012

($22, Excelsior Wine and Spirits): Cabernet is king in the Maipo Valley and especially Puente Alto region, which explains why some of Chile’s finest Cabernet-based wines carry this appellation. For example, Don Melchor, the iconic — and expensive ($100+) — wine from Concha y Toro, one of the country’s leading producers, hails from Puente Alto. Read more

Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Comtes des Champagne” Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005

($135, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Taittinger’s top Champagne, Comtes des Champagne is a Blanc de Blancs made from Chardonnay grown exclusively in Grand Cru villages.   While the Comtes des Champagne is always one of the great prestige bottlings from the region, the 2005 is particularly noteworthy because it retains incredible vivacity despite the ripeness of that vintage. Read more

Marion-Bosser, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV

($55, Loubaton Imports): This producer’s Champagne was previously unknown to me.  That’s my loss and I now will try to make up for lost time.  Extra Brut Champagne is an extremely tough and expensive category to produce.  There can be no compromise on the quality of the grapes because the extremely low dosage means that there’s little sugar to cover up whatever flaws are present. Read more

Domaine de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) 2011

($30, Kermit Lynch): Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a unique fortified sweet wine, has long been held in high regard, having received appellation status in 1945 and elevated to a cru, comparable to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in 2005.  Domaine de Durban, one of the appellation’s top producers, makes a consistently glorious traditionally styled wine. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Truffières 2012

($95, Louis Latour USA): Despite the concentration of Latour’s whites in 2012, the wines still reflect their origins.  This wine has a particularly stony edginess that screams Puligny-Montrachet and distinguishes it from the slightly creamier Meursault.  Like Latour’s Meursault Premier Cru, Les Truffières has a welcome vibrancy that balances its riches, amplifies its finish and puts its refinement into sharp relief. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Meursault Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Château de Blagny 2012

($70, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top-notch producers, hit a bull’s eye with their 2012s.  The vintage produced concentrated wines and capturing acidity, especially for the whites, was a challenge.  Latour succeeded brilliantly.  This Meursault has a beautiful, yet not overripe, density for a premier cru in 2012. Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2012

($155, Louis Latour USA): Latour, the largest owner of Corton-Charlemagne, makes sensational wines year in and year out from that vineyard. Indeed, in my opinion, there is no better producer of Corton-Charlemagne.  As expected from Grand Cru white Burgundy, Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne bottlings evolve gracefully and improve over a decade or two. Read more