Category Archives: Reviews

André Jacquart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Brut Experience” NV

($55, Esprit du Vin): It’s unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne.  This one is stunning and not to be missed.  The creamy elegance and precision for which Chardonnay-based Champagne is renown is immediately apparent.  Of course is doesn’t hurt that all the grapes come from their vineyards located in either Premier or Grand Cru villages on the Côte des Blancs, the best area in Champagne for Chardonnay. Read more

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Malconsorts 2013

($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy.  The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. Read more

Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011

($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert.  Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. Read more

Château Bourbon La Chapelle, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012

($17): This, the second wine of Château Castera, a property classified as one of the Cru Bourgeois of Médoc, shows the value of Bordeaux.  The current owners acquired Château Castera in1986 from famed Bordeaux merchant and property owner, Alexis Lichine.  The last 30 years have seen enormous renovations in the winery and the vineyards that explain the current high level of quality, even of their second wine. Read more

Château de Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011

($21): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a category that accounts for less than 5 percent of all the properties in Bordeaux, reinforces the idea that Bordeaux is, indeed, the place for value-packed red wines.  Less weighty and fruit-focused than California Merlot, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a beguiling combination of fruitiness and earthiness supported by firm, but not aggressive, structure and uplifting acidity. Read more

Stéphane Aviron, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de la Madrière Vieilles Vignes 2013

($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): There’s no better way to learn about the differences between the cru of Beaujolais than by tasting the wines of Stéphane Aviron, one of the appellation’s top producers.  The house characteristics — precision and harmony — are apparent in all of them, but each reflects the specific terroir of the region. Read more

Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Stagecoach Vineyard 2012

($40): Those consumers looking for “a glass of Merlot” before dinner should avoid this wine.  Those, however, who want to see for themselves the complexity that the varietal can deliver should embrace it.  There’s a hint of leafiness and earthiness that, frankly, a Merlot-based wine should deliver to accompany and complement the black fruit notes. Read more

Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2012

($75): Though Dave and Emily Miner founded their eponymous winery less than 20 years ago, they must be included among any list of the top tier of Napa Valley producers, at least judging from their current releases from there.  This Cabernet Sauvignon has the captivating — and paradoxical — combination of an almost chewy yet very polished texture. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2011

($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines.  Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything.  Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style. Read more

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Villa de Corullon” 2012

($40, Rare Wine Company): Almost a decade ago, Oscar Alegre, export manager at Descendientes de J. Palacios, told me, referring to Bierzo, that “Nobody in Spain thinks quality wine comes from here.”   I do not know whether the thinking in Spain has changed, but I can assure you that very high quality, exciting wines come from Bierzo, especially those made by Descendientes de J.Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013

($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there.  Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. Read more

Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV

($19, Wilson Daniels): Crémant d’Alsace Rosé must be made entirely from Pinot Noir, which helps explains why they, as a category, are very good.  That Pierre Sparr, a top Alsace producer, made this one explains why it’s easy to recommend. Crémant (literally meaning, “creamy”), from Alsace or elsewhere, has about two-thirds the fizz as Champagne, which means they have a rounder texture. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2012

($60): The 2012 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir really sings.  The first whiff announces an exciting savory and earthy component that ultimately balances the ripe, but not jammy, California fruit component.  It’s more concentrated than her Russian River Valley bottling, but the increased power is not at the expense of elegance. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2012

($57): At this stage — and I qualify it because this wine, like Merry Edwards’ other Pinot Noir, is still evolving even though bottled — combines attributes of her Klopp Ranch and Flax Vineyard bottlings.  Engaging aromatics grab your attention immediately, while a seamless combination of bright fruit flavors and savory nuances hold it. Read more

Lunae, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2014

($40, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): Forty dollars for a Vermentino, a wine more often found in the under $20 category, is an extraordinary price.  But this one, Lunae’s Black Label and the winery’s flagship, is an extraordinary wine.  After tasting the 2014, I can understand why Gambero Rosso, the prestigious Italian wine guide, has awarded the wine Tre Bicchieri (their highest accolade) for six consecutive years. Read more

Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012

($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria.  But this is a singularly appealing wine.  Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. Read more