($14): Unbelievable. My first and second — and third — reaction to this wine. Wine with real Pinot Noir character at $14 a bottle. Fresh and clean, it’s a delicate, but flavorful wine that finishes ever so slightly sweet. But fresh acidity keeps it balanced. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Signature Reserve 2017
($25): Kim Crawford, a leading producer of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, has introduced what they call a “luxury tier.” A clear cut above their usual bottling, it has a long finish and better mid-palate. Their Signature Reserve conveys a delightful and balanced mixture of tropical fruit and citrus flavors, finishing with a zesty pleasant bite characteristic of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Icon” 2015
($17, Constellation Imports): The Marlborough region on the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island is rapidly becoming known for Pinot Noir. This one imparts a pure, clean fruitiness that is, paradoxically, both intense and delicate. There’s not a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Château de Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Le Clos 2015
($69, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Pouilly-Fuissé doesn’t get any better than this. Le Clos, sure to be classified as a premier cru vineyard when the classification system for Pouilly-Fuissé goes into effect in the next year or so, is owned solely — a monopole — by Château de Fuissé, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Mâcon-Chaintré (Burgundy, France) “Réserve des Rochers” 2015
($12): Chaintré is one of the communes that comprise the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. If a wine comes exclusively from vineyards in the village, but lie outside of that famous appellation, they can carry the name of village instead of the more generic appellation of Mâcon-Villages. … Read more
Domaine Vaudon, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Montmains 2015
($35, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The 2015 vintage in Burgundy was outstanding for both reds and whites. Reds belong in the cellar, while the whites are delicious for earlier drinking as this one demonstrates. Domaine Vaudon is the Drouhin estate in Chablis where they make sensational wines. … Read more
Pieropan, Calvarino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2015

I Stefanini, Il Selese, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016

Bolla, Tufaie, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016

Prà, Otto, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016

Inama, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016

Pieropan, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2017

Coffele, Castel Cerino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016

Ca’Rugate, Monte Fiorentine, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016

I Stefanini, Monte di Fice, Soave, Classico, Soave, 2016

Inama, Vigneto du Lot, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016

Gini, La Froscà, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2014

Buena Vista, Sonoma County (California) “The Count” Red Wine 2015
($20): If you haven’t visited Buena Vista since the new regime came to town, you should definitely stop in and see what Jean Charles Boisset is up to with the restoration, and you can meet the Count while you’re there. Make sure you ask him to taste you on his namesake’s wine — it’s a fitting tribute to the original Count Agoston Haraszthy, with a sassy spice profile joining bright red fruit. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2015
($23): After tasting this lovely Rully, a word Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson once used to describe a wine sprang to mind: “Delish!” Fresh and juicy, there’s not a hint of over-ripeness in mid-weight red. A hint of earthiness adds intrigue to this well-proportioned ready-to-drink village wine. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2016
($30): Mercurey, an often-overlooked village in the Côte Chalonnaise, is home to well-priced authentic Burgundy, both red and white. In this era of stratospheric prices for Burgundies, consumers should search for wines from this village. Château de Chamirey, one of the finest producers in the Côte Chalonnaise, made a superb array of Mercurey wines in 2016. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Maladière 2015
($35): This is the first vintage that Château de Chamirey decided to bottle wine from this 3.5-acre vineyard separately. Half went into this bottling, while the other half went into their village Mercurey blend. Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this 2015 tastes like a premier cru wine. … Read more
Domaine de Clos Salomon, Givrey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos Salomon 2016
($35): Domaine Salomon is a — perhaps the — star in Givrey, yet another under-rated village in the Côte Chalonnaise. (Don’t confuse this village with Gevrey, as in Chambertin, in the Côte d’Or.) This wine, their flagship, hails from a 17.5-acre that they own exclusively. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay DVC Estate Block 10 2016
($32): Chardonnay lovers, listen up. And those who think they don’t care for Chardonnay should also lend an ear. There’s a delicacy to this wine that makes it very appealing. Its fruitiness is enhanced by a hint of seductive oakiness. It delivers richness without being overt, overdone or heavy handed. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Zinfandel “Heritage Vines” 2016
($24): Full disclosure, I’m not a fan of Zinfandel. So, it’s a dilemma when I come across one like this. I don’t personally like it, but that’s beside the point. It’s really good wine — a fine expression of Zinfandel. Sure, it’s bold — it is Zinfandel, after all — but tips the stated-alcohol scales at under 15%, which some would say makes it a bantam-weight for that varietal. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Hilltop” 2015
($35): A touch (5%) of Petit Verdot and Malbec enhance this delightful Cabernet Sauvignon. Filled with dark fruit and olive-like savory notes, it’s ready to enjoy now because of its fine, polished tannins. Juicy acidity in the finish keeps it lively throughout the meal. … Read more
Cuvaison, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): Although lovely herbal notes appear in this Pinot Noir, the focus is firmly footed on fruitiness. Suave mild tannins support the juicy red fruit nuances. The finish has a touch of sweetness, which makes the wine useful as a stand-alone glass before a meal.… Read more
La Crema, Arroyo Seco (Monterey, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2014
($40): Another fruit-focused Pinot Noir with good weight and a suave texture. Not overdone in the “Pinot Syrah” mode, it finishes a touch sweet, which I suspect is due in part to its 14.5% stated alcohol. Ready to drink now. I’d be sure to served it ever so slightly chilled to minimize the effect of the alcohol.… Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Confluence Vineyard 2015
($84): Though Goldeneye’s Pinot Noir from the Confluence Vineyard conveys more fruity elements than earthy ones, savory nuances appear and add complexity. Supple tannins lend support without intruding and bright acidity keeps it fresh. A touch of heat in the finish compared to their other single vineyard bottlings tempers my enthusiasm. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir The Narrows Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye, one of Duckhorn’s many labels, has captured the delicacy and charm of Pinot Noir with this single vineyard bottling. Delicate, red fruit flavors dance on the palate. Beautifully balanced, subtle bitter notes in the finish complement the sense of sweetness from its fruitiness. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Split Rail Vineyard 2015
($84): Goldeneye’s single vineyard bottlings actually reflect the difference in sites. Theirs is not a marketing ploy. This one, for example, is denser and more concentrated, conveying more black rather than red fruit, compared to one from The Narrows Vineyard. Yet it still conveys the delicacy that makes Pinot Noir so alluring. … Read more
Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Gowan Creek Vineyard 2015
($84): Showing that you can never judge a wine by the numbers, Goldeneye’s Gowan Creek Vineyard bottling weighs in at a hefty 14.9% stated alcohol yet does not finish hot. Nor is it overdone. Indeed, it’s a balanced mixture of black fruit flavors and earthy savory ones. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014
($45): Unlike a Riserva in Italy, Reserve on a label on a California wine has no legal meaning. A winery can, and sometimes does, label their entire production, all several million bottles, as “reserve.” Not so with Rodney Strong. In this case, the winemaker selects the best barrels in the cellar and blends them to create a Reserve bottling. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2016
($118, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaudésir, along with Le Clos, sit atop most critics’ lists — certainly mine — of top Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. To me, the wines from Vaudésir, in the hands of the best producers, combine power with elegance and epitomize the stature of Grand Cru classification. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2016
($48, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Vaillon is a large well-known 1er cru vineyard on the Left Bank in Chablis that is composed of many plots. Christian Moreau’s plot, where the average age of the vines is 56 years, according to their website, is in the heart of the vineyard. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2016
($75, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Fabien Moreau, the current winemaker, says that this portion of their plot in the Vaillon vineyard was planted by his grandfather, Guy, 83 years ago and contain the oldest vines of their estate. Located on the steepest part of the slope, the vines have excellent exposure and drainage. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2016
($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Aviron’s Moulin-à-Vent dazzles with a paradoxical firmness and fleshiness. The tannins are fine, not hard or astringent. You can almost taste the granitic soil of this cru in this tightly wound wine. Uplifting brightness in the finish amplifies its appeal.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Morgon (Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2016
($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Morgon, along with Moulin-à-Vent, are the two cru that produce the sturdiest wines that often need several years of bottle age to show their true beauty. The Côte de Py is an area within Morgon made of black volcanic soil that imparts an austere mineral-like quality to the wines. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Juliénas (Burgundy, France) 2016
($21, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): While not as ripe and fleshy as the 2015 wines from Beaujolais, the 2016s are racier while maintaining charm for which the region is known. Aviron’s Juliénas borrows a bit of the density of his Chénas and combines it with an alluring spice. … Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Chénas (Burgundy, France) 2016
($22, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd): Stéphane Aviron makes wines from many of the crus of Beaujolais, the ten villages that have the potential to produce distinctive wines that stand apart from those labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. (Indeed, wines from these villages rarely put Beaujolais on the label.) … Read more
Steele, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Blanc 2016
($19): Consumers often avoid Pinot Blanc because they are disappointed by the light weight, often innocuous wine made from that grape. Well, if you’ve been one of those, you’ll want to grab this one to know what real Pinot Blanc tastes like. … Read more
Murrieta’s Well, Livermore Valley (California) “The Whip” 2015
($24): The unusual blend here, roughly 30 percent each of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Chardonnay, with Viognier and Muscat Canelli contributing the rest, works well. Subtle aromatics are intriguing and lead you into a wine with hints of stone fruits and a glossy texture. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (North Coast, California) Viognier 2016
($19): Viognier is a tough grape to turn into wine. It needs adequate ripeness to express its floral character, which often is accompanied by high alcohol from higher sugar levels. Its traditional home is in Condrieu in the Rhône Valley. Jed Steele has mastered it in Lake County. … Read more
Cuvaison, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Adda” 2015
($50): Cuvaison was one of the early wineries to discover the virtues of Carneros, one of the coolest areas of Napa Valley. They planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir there 40 years ago and have enormous experience with how those varieties fare there. … Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey, California) Chardonnay “Riverstone” 2016
($14): This well-priced Chardonnay is another excellent value from J. Lohr. Overt, but not oily or overdone, it weighs in at a modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol, which helps explain its balance. Fruity and toasty flavors predominate and make it a crowd-pleasing choice for broiled fish.… Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Sauvignon Blanc “Flume Crossing” 2016
($14): J. Lohr has managed to combine a pleasing pungency tempered by a subtle sweetness in this Sauvignon Blanc. Nicely priced, it could do double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or as an accompaniment to a roast chicken. A fine value.… Read more
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2014
($85): I suppose you could call Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst their second wine. The grapes used to make it come from their vineyards, presumably those that don’t make the cut for their flagship Spottswoode Cabernet, along with purchased fruit. The incredible quality of this wine shows just how fabulous a producer Spottswoode is. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($28): This Cabernet shows the diversity of wines coming from Dry Creek Vineyard. Compared to their 2013 Meritage (also reviewed this week), this Cabernet Sauvignon has more of everything — more alcohol (14.5% stated), more power, more concentration and more fruit dominant flavors. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Meritage 2013
($30): This is classic example of how less is often more. Weighing in at a modest 13.5% stated alcohol, this blend of Bordeaux grapes displays a panoply of black fruit and savory flavors. There’s a hint of cassis-like notes and an olive-like nuance among others. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Zinfandel “Vintner’s Reserve” 2015
($17): Those looking for “killer” Zinfandel should look elsewhere, which probably explains why I like this wine. It’s a balance of black fruit flavors, spice and a touch of herbal notes wrapped in soft plush tannins. Not flamboyant, it’s a good choice for burgers, barbeque or a pepperoni pizza.… Read more
Archery Summit, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris “Vireton” 2015
($22): Archery Summit, a top Oregon Pinot Noir producer, also makes distinctive Pinot Gris, judging from this one. It strikes the balance of subtle stone fruit flavors buttressed by vibrant acidity. They have captured the essence of Pinot Gris without falling into the trap of over ripeness. … Read more