($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Though the producer according to the label is Dominio del Plata, the important name is that of Susana Balbo, one of Argentina’s top producers. In this wine, she has fashioned an attractive blend of Malbec (75%) and Cabernet Franc.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Susana Balbo, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) “Brioso” Single Vineyard Red Wine 2016
($45, Folio Fine Wine Partners): A plummy and polished Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Malbec (16%), and Petit Verdot, Balbo’s Brioso is fruit-focused, yet balanced by enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively. A suave texture adds to its appeal. … Read more
Spottswoode, California (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2017
($42): Don’t let the lack of an upscale appellation deter you from this sensational Sauvignon Blanc. Although legally it must be labeled as California because less than 85 percent of the grapes came from a more particular AVA, the grapes have excellent provenance — one-third come from Napa County while two-thirds come from Sonoma County. … Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Cuvée 20” NV
($38): Cuvée 20 was originally inaugurated to celebrate 20 years of sparkling wine production by J, founded in 1986. A blend of almost equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (with a drop of Pinot Meunier), it is now one of their beloved bottlings. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Reserve” 2014
($28): This is Kendall-Jackson’s mid-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, positioned between their Vintner’s Reserve and their Alexander Valley Jackson Estate bottlings. A balanced blend of five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon [81%], Petit Verdot [9%], Merlot [5%], Cabernet Franc [3%] and Malbec), it’s focused on dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Jackson Estate” 2014
($40): Kendall-Jackson’s Jackson Estate bottling is a giant step up from their other Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, presumably because it comes from a more rigorous selection of their grapes. With more character and complexity, it mingles olive-tinged and herbal savory elements with a dark plum or cassis-like fruitiness. … Read more
Viña Eguía, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2014
($19, Quintessential Wines): Here’s yet another example of why Rioja can be such a treasure trove of value-paced wines. Viña Eguía’s Reserva, made entirely from Tempranillo, provides a lovely balance of vibrant red fruit-like flavors and savory nuances. The modest 13.5 percent-stated alcohol belies the weight and depth of the wine. … Read more
Teece Family Vineyards, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Sisters Ridge” 2018
($13): The Teece family, the owners of Mt. Beautiful, a top New Zealand Pinot Noir producer, have produced a lighter and more delicate style of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It still conveys the characteristic pleasant zingy bite you’d expect from New Zealand’s signature grape, but it doesn’t shake you by the lapels. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “10 Barrels” 2015
($45): Since their founding, Mt. Beautiful has always focused on making high-quality Pinot Noir. The 2015 vintage was the first time they have produced a reserve bottling, labeled 10 Barrels, presumably because they used their top 10 barrels for the blend. It’s a wonderful Pinot Noir, showing both the fruity and savory side of that grape. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2012
($65): Tenuta Carretta owns a small piece of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard. A youthful Barolo, it delivers a haunting combination of floral elements followed by tarriness. Paradoxically, it’s delicate, but with a substantial presence. Its firm tannic structure is appropriate for its age and does not perturb the wine’s harmony and balance. … Read more
Lanson, Champagne (France) Brut “Black Label” NV
($45): In my opinion, Lanson does not receive the credit it’s due. Their non-vintage Brut combines a welcome steeliness and vibrancy with richness. Geek alert — the vibrancy is, in part, due to their blocking the malolactic fermentation, action of bacteria that normally changes firm green apple-like (malic) acidity to softer (creamy) lactic acidity. … Read more
Susana Balbo, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Signature “Brioso” White Blend 2017
($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Susana Balbo has fashioned a captivating ying-yang of a white wine. Floral and seductively aromatic, it delivers a hint of sweetness that is balanced perfectly with bracing acidity. The overall impression is that of a clean, fresh and lively wine. … Read more
Warre’s, Porto (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage 2001
($30, Vineyard Brands): Late Bottled Vintage Port, or LBV as it is commonly known, is an ideal way to savor some of the glories of Vintage Port without waiting the requisite two or three decades for the latter to mature in the bottle. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Costa Toscana Rosso (Tuscany, Italy) “Marsiliana” 2013
($55): Tenuta Marsiliana is Principe Corsini’s estate in the Maremma area of Tuscany. They refer to this wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, as the estate’s “grand vin,” as the French would, presumably because of the Bordeaux blend of grapes. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Cortevecchia” 2015
($30): As much as I liked Principe Corsini’s 2015 annata (standard or regular one) Chianti Classico, their 2015 Riserva is just better. Riserva should be better than the regular bottling, but that isn’t always the case. They can be overdone or over-extracted and out of balance. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Don Tommaso” 2015
($43): With the introduction of Gran Selezione several years ago, Chianti Classico has a quality pyramid with annata (regular or standard bottling) at the bottom, followed by Riserva and then Gran Selezione at the pinnacle. With Don Tommaso, Principe Corsini shows they can produce a stunning more “modern” style of Chianti Classico that contrasts beautifully with their Riserva. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Corti” 2015
($24): Principe Corsini’s 2015 Chianti Classico exemplifies why Chianti Classico in general is so popular. Bright and fresh, it delivers the ideal combination of red cherry-like fruitiness with haunting earthy, “not just fruit” flavors that give it complexity and character. Lively acidity and smooth tannins make it the “go-to” red wine now. … Read more
Tenuta Carretta, Barbaresco Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Cascina Bordino 2012
($60): People who think Barbaresco is a lighter version of Barolo will change their opinion after trying this wine. A burly and broad-shouldered Barbaresco from the relatively obscure Cascina Bordino vineyard in the southern edge of Treiso, this one combines firm minerality with weight and appropriately prominent tannins. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Eberle Estate Vineyard 2017
($24): Gary Eberle has been making wine for decades, having founded his eponymous estate in 1982. His experience shows in his wines, both this charm-filled Chardonnay and in his equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon. With his 2017 Chardonnay he walks the line beautifully between delivering too little and too much. … Read more
Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Meritage 2014
($34): While Jason-Stephens’ Cabernet and Merlot bottlings exhibit savory elements that complement their dark fruitiness, this bottling embraces bold fruitiness. A ripe blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (30%), with equal parts of Malbec, Carmenere, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it weighs in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Merlot 2014
($24): Intriguing and welcome leafy and herbal nuances, a hallmark of real Merlot, complements the dark fruitiness that otherwise dominates. A hint of chocolate, presumably from oak aging, either enhances or detracts, depending on your point of view. The silky tannins in this blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and Malbec make it ideal for current consumption. … Read more
Jason-Stephens Winery, Santa Clara Valley (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($28): Though the focus is firmly on dark fruit flavors, lovely olive-tinged savory notes come through in this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (76%) Bordeaux-blend. Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc round out the blend. The oak influence is better integrated at this stage compared to their Merlot. … Read more
Freemark Abbey, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($70): Freemark Abbey, one of the iconic Napa Valley Cabernet producers, continues their streak with this concentrated and deep 2013 rendition. Under its hulking frame lies elegance and refinement. The tannins have a lovely dusty quality, appropriate for a youthful Rutherford Cabernet. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vineyard Selection” 2016
($25): Lovely herbal elements balance and enhance the dark fruit flavors in this Cabernet. Lip-smacking acidity imparts life and energy. Although a generous Cabernet, it is not out-sized. The “not just fruit” savory notes add complexity and supple tannins allow current consumption. … Read more
Arrowood Vineyards and Winery, Knights Valley, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($35): Knights Valley of Sonoma County has long been known as an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon. With good depth and length, this wine supports that region’s reputation. Subtle herbal notes accent its ripe dark fruit focus. Polished tannins mean it’s fine to drink this winter. … Read more
French Bar, California (United States) Petite Sirah Rock Creek Family Vineyards 2016
($20): Petite Sirah is a difficult variety to tackle, with producers often overdoing everything. French Bar manages to contain themselves with this one. Weighing in at a modest — at least by Petite Sirah standards — stated 14.2 percent alcohol, this one is still robust, but with an enhancing spiciness that actually modulates its power. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Costa Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Birillo” 2016
($19): Principe Corsini, a great Chianti Classico producer, has an estate in Maremma where the grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for this wine are grown. With dark succulent fruit flavors and bright Tuscan acidity, the blend works. It’s a bold wine, but not over the top because of the energy the acidity provides. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2017
($36): Merry Edwards is clearly a very talented winemaker because not only does she produce stunning Pinot Noirs, she also makes incredible Sauvignon Blanc. Her 2017 seamlessly balances a subtle and welcome bite characteristic of the variety with a creamy, mineral-infused elegance to produce a dazzling array of flavors. … Read more
Kendall-Jackson, California (United States) Chardonnay “Vintner’s Reserve” 2017
($17): Some would say that Kendall-Jackson (or “KJ” as it is sometimes called) created or at least stimulated America’s love-affair with Chardonnay with their “Vintner’s Reserve” decades ago. It has since become this country’s best-selling Chardonnay for 25 years, according to their website. … Read more
Banfi, Toscano IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Stilnovo” Governo all’Uso Toscano 2017
($15): The label notes, “Governo all’Uso Toscano,” which means the wine was made using the centuries-old governo method. With this technique, the winemaker held back some slightly over-ripe or even dried grapes to increase the body of the wine or to re-start a “stuck” fermentation — one that had stopped prematurely. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Vino Spumante (Italy) Brut Rosé NV
($23): It seems that everyone wants to get in on the rosé craze. Here we have a top Tuscan producer, well-known for their stunning Chianti Classico, making a bubbly from Sangiovese. It works. This bright and fresh rosé bubbly delivers delicate hints of strawberries. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Grand Cras 2017
($32): Realizing the diversity of soils within Morgon, the wine producers there divided that appellation into six fairly large (averaging about 450 acres) climats, one of which is Grand Cras. This one, from Mee Godard, one of the rising stars in Morgon, comes from a single 1-acre plot of 20-year-old vines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($48): The line-up of five 2016 Pinot Noirs from Merry Edwards is her best ever, in my opinion. The five include this one from the Sonoma Coast, three single vineyard ones, Klopp Ranch, Flax Vineyard and Meredith Estate, from the Russian River Valley, and one labeled just “Vintage 20,” a blend of her top barrels from those and other vineyards she created to celebrate her 20th vintage. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2016
($63): In terms of density, Merry Edwards 2016 Pinot Noir from the Flax Vineyard falls in between that of the one from the Sonoma Coast and the Klopp Ranch. It delivers a wonderfully complex combination of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2016
($66): Merry Edwards’ Pinot Noir from the Klopp Ranch is spectacular, delivering black fruit-like power seasoned beautifully with spice and minerals. With all its density, it’s still fresh and thankfully does not venture into the “Pinot-Syrah” category. Despite its power, it’s paradoxically still restrained and amazingly complex. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2016
($68): Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir is always one of my favorites in her line-up. Is it a stand out because it’s one of her own vineyards, purchased and planted about 20 years ago? Whatever the reason, the 2016 is particularly magnificent. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “20th Vintage” 2016
($120): This special bottling, a blend of the best barrels from selected vineyards, celebrates Merry Edwards’ 20th vintage under her name. Aside from the sheer deliciousness of the wine, it makes an important point — single vineyard wines are not always superior to those made from a blend of several vineyards. … Read more
Banfi, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “L’Altra Anima” 2017
($17, Banfi Vintners): The name, L’Altra Anima, translates literally as “other soul,” presumably in reference to Barbera being the “other” major grape of Piedmont. It has the engaging spiciness and verve of Barbera with an unusual — and welcome — polished patina. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2017
($18, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The wines from Saint-Véran, a small appellation surrounding its more famous cousin, Pouilly-Fuissé, can offer exceptional value, especially when produced by someone like Drouhin. Made entirely from Chardonnay, Drouhin’s Saint-Véran combines a lovely stoniness characteristic of the appellation and a hint of creamy seductiveness with the elegant and lacy Drouhin style. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Crays 2017
($16, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Véronique Drouhin explained that they have always purchased grapes from a variety of growers who have holdings in Les Crays, but this is the first year they decided to put the name of that lieu-dit (vineyard) on the label. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Michelons 2017
($27): Godard just acquired a vineyard in Moulin-à-Vent, expanding her holdings to about 16 acres in total. Au Michelon, located in the northern part of Moulin-à-Vent, has dark stones and dark sandy soil, according to Godard, which she says gives the wine a combination of power and elegance. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Corcelette 2017
($29): Mee Godard, a young woman originally from Korea, is one of the rising shining stars of Beaujolais. Her wines are not to be missed because of their precision and distinctiveness, not to mention their sheer deliciousness. Located in Morgan, she bottled three different wines in 2017 from various climats (vineyards) in that cru, Corcelette, Côte de Py and Grand Cras. … Read more
Domaine Mee Godard, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2017
($37): The union of Morgon producers divided Morgon into six climats according to soil type about 50 years ago, according to Godard. Now, more and more producers there — and in Moulin-à-Vent as well — are putting these sites on labels. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2016
($50): Tongue Dancer, the project of experienced winemaker James MacPhail and Kerry MacPhail, is an odd name for a wine but is supposed to evoke the image of wines that dance on your tongue. If the name sounds odd, the label is even weirder. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2016
($37, Louis Latour USA): Latour’s En Caradeux, which always over delivers for the price, is true to form in 2016. Pure and delicate, the wine is nonetheless rich and long. It has the classic focus and harmony of Latour’s wines. This exhilarating wine shows there are still well-priced Burgundies. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Preuses 2016
($55, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre’s 2016 Preuses is an exceptional wine at an exceptional price. Full-bodied with exotic undertones, it nonetheless conveys the firm minerality of great Chablis. Zesty, not shrill, the flavors jump from the glass and persist. A seemingly endless finish just adds to the appeal of this energetic wine.… Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2016
($35, Louis Latour USA): The Fourchaume vineyard, which sits adjacent to the strip of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis, is considered to be among the top 1er Cru vineyards. This wine has the added richness and depth characteristic of Fourchaume without scarifying any verve or energy. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bouzeron (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Gagey” 2016
($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Bouzeron is the only white wine appellation in Burgundy that prohibits Chardonnay in favor of another grape, Bourgogne Aligoté, because the soil is particularly well-suited to it. Although wines labeled Bourgogne Aligoté can been thin and harsh, the wines from Bouzeron generally are not. … Read more
Domaine Paul Pernot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2017
($26): Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the leaders in Puligny-Montrachet, seemingly can do no wrong with their white wines. Year in and year out, my notes indicate you can buy any of his white wines and be happy. Take this Bourgogne Blanc, which comes exclusively from Chardonnay grown in plots located just outside the delineated area of Puligny-Montrachet. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2016
($75, Louis Latour USA): Les Chaillots is one of the many vineyards where Louis Latour owns vines. Hence the labeling, Domaine Louis Latour. The 2016 vintage received a bad rap because of the horrible weather that reduced yields dramatically. The weather may have been bad, but many of the 2016s, such as this one, are excellent. … Read more