Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “L’Empreinte” 2017

($47, Polaner Selections):   With the sky-high prices of wines from the Côte d’Or, consumers who love the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based wines from Burgundy must look elsewhere within that region.  Givry, in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good place to start, especially with the wines from Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in the appellation. Read more

Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” Meritage Red Wine 2014

($55):  This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (80%) Bordeaux-style blend (with Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc making up the remainder) is far more complex than their straight Cabernets.  Not overdone, it manages to be both elegant and powerful. Non-intrusive tannins provide support without a hint of aggressiveness. Read more

Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio al Vento” 2012

($125):   This is Brunello at its best.  Col d’Orcia, one of the leading producers of Brunello, makes fabulous Riserva…but only in the best years.  Vintage after vintage, Col d’Orcia’s Poggio al Vento consistently combines power and elegance.  The 2012, from an excellent vintage in the Montalcino region, is no exception. Read more

Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Filetta di Lamole 2016

($44):   Although this release is only the third vintage of this wine, Giovanni Manetti, owner/winemaker at Fontodi told me they have been working on the project for 15 years.  The Filetta vineyard, owned by Manetti’s cousin, is only a few miles from Fontodi’s home base near Panzano, but the wine is very different from their usual Chianti Classico because of the extreme elevation of the vineyard. Read more

El Vínculo, La Mancha DO (Spain) Airen “Alejairén” 2015

 ($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  The Fernández family, headed by patriarch Alejandro who is best known for his Tinto Pesquera, a wine that was instrumental in the formation of the Ribera del Duero DO, has expanded to the La Mancha area.   Made entirely from Airén and the only white wine in the Fernández portfolio, Alejairén is bold, expressing ripe stone fruit-like flavors.  … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016

 ($45):  Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, part of the Kendall-Jackson portfolio, prides itself on the mountainous location of its vineyards.  The conventional wisdom is that higher elevation vineyards are cooler, which allows slower ripening, better flavor development and better retention of acidity.  This Chardonnay, a blend from several vineyards, supports that idea. … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bear Point Vineyard 2016

($60):  Compared to their regular (multi-vineyard blend) Chardonnay, the one from Bear Point Vineyard has better density and is more elegant.  Although the concentration is what’s immediately noticeable, its elegance, especially in the finish, is what sticks in your mind. Judicious oak aging adds a subtle creaminess to its citrus-tinged flavors, making it a good choice for chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.  … Read more

Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard 2016

($100):  Stonestreet produces single vineyard Chardonnay, which, when tasted side-by-side, are distinctly different. Whether the differences are worth the price differential is something for you and your banker to decide.  Upper Barn Vineyard, at 1,800 ft elevation, must be an even cooler site because the wine is racier compared to the Bear Point Chardonnay.  … Read more

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2015

($82):  Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst bottling comes from a combination of their grapes that don’t make the cut for their top wine along with purchased grapes.  In that sense, it’s the Bordeaux equivalent of a “second” wine.  Second wines, whether in Bordeaux or California, are a good introduction to a producers’ style at a lower price. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Grand Reserve” 2014

($28):  This is Kendall-Jackson’s mid-tier Cabernet Sauvignon, positioned between their Vintner’s Reserve and their Alexander Valley Jackson Estate bottlings.  A balanced blend of five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon [81%], Petit Verdot [9%], Merlot [5%], Cabernet Franc [3%] and Malbec), it’s focused on dark fruit flavors. … Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Jackson Estate” 2014

($40):  Kendall-Jackson’s Jackson Estate bottling is a giant step up from their other Cabernet Sauvignon offerings, presumably because it comes from a more rigorous selection of their grapes.  With more character and complexity, it mingles olive-tinged and herbal savory elements with a dark plum or cassis-like fruitiness. … Read more

Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “10 Barrels” 2015

($45):  Since their founding, Mt. Beautiful has always focused on making high-quality Pinot Noir.  The 2015 vintage was the first time they have produced a reserve bottling, labeled 10 Barrels, presumably because they used their top 10 barrels for the blend.  It’s a wonderful Pinot Noir, showing both the fruity and savory side of that grape. … Read more

Tenuta Carretta, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2012

($65):  Tenuta Carretta owns a small piece of Cannubi, arguably Barolo’s most famous vineyard.  A youthful Barolo, it delivers a haunting combination of floral elements followed by tarriness.  Paradoxically, it’s delicate, but with a substantial presence.  Its firm tannic structure is appropriate for its age and does not perturb the wine’s harmony and balance. … Read more