($65): John and Linda Carter, both successful in their respective careers — he in business and she in music — had the good sense to hired Lynn Penner-Ash to make their wine. She was the one who put the Rex Hill Vineyards’ Pinot Noir on the map in the late 1980s and 1990s before establishing Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2016
($44, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Ferret has always been one of the top names in Pouilly-Fuissé, being one of the first to move from bulk to bottled wine after World War II to ensure quality. Since being acquired by Beaune-based Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, Ferret’s wines have reached new heights, no doubt, in part due to Audrey Braccini, their exceptionally talented winemaker. … Read more
P. Ferraud et Fils, Saint-Amour (Beaujolais, France) 2017
($17): Saint-Amour is the most northern Beaujolais cru and the second smallest, after Chénas. Clay in the granitic soil here adds an oomph to the wines, according to growers to whom I spoke. Ferraud’s is wonderfully fragrant and immediately enticing. After its floral allure, its power comes as a surprise, but a welcome one because it is not overdone. … Read more
P. Ferraud et Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “La Dynastie des Ferraud” 2015
($30): Though Ferraud’s wines have been in the U.S. market in the past, they currently have no importer, which is a shame because they consistently make distinctive Beaujolais. (The prices I quote come from a world-wide averages.) My experience with their wines comes from decades ago when they were imported and, more recently, drinking them in Paris bistros. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($20): Those who maintain that California Chardonnay has moved away from the rich buttery style to a more elegant, refined approach will find support for that generality with this wine. Lemony tones in the finish keeps it fresh, while delicate creamy notes remind why Chardonnay that has seen a judicious use of oak is so popular. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Grey Label” 2018
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): Lunae Bosoni, the largest winery in Liguria, shows that big can be beautiful. They make an exquisitely consistent line-up of Vermentino. Scents of wild herbs and spice leap from the glass of this one, their so-called entry level wine. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Numero Chiuso” 2015
($60, Montcalm Wine Importers): This, Bosoni’s “number one,” is a limited production of 2,600 bottles from a single 20-hl barrel, where the wine rested on the lees for 14 months. The lees aging adds richness and roundness, which results in a different expression of Vermentino. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Cavagino” 2017
($45, Montcalm Wine Importers): Though this Vermentino comes from three vineyards in the more highly regarded Cavagino area of the DOC, I suspect that the major difference in the wine’s character compared to Lunae Bosoni’s other Vermentinos is in the winemaking, because they have been experimenting with barrique fermentation. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria, Italy) Vermentino “Black Label” 2018
($40, Montcalm Wine Importers): I know my editor, and others, are wondering how I could possibly could give 95 points to a Vermentino. Taste it and you’ll see. As much as I like Lunae Bosoni’s “Grey Label” Vermentino, this, their so-called “Black Label,” is just better. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige – Südtirol DOC (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2018
($15, HB Wine Merchants): Pinot Grigio spans the spectrum from innocuous or insipid to charming and noteworthy. Peter Zemmer’s is definitely in the latter group. An immediately captivating floral sensation predicts enjoyment. It has remarkable depth and persistence for a category that is all too often fleeting and bland. … Read more
P. Ferraud & Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “L’Éolienne” 2016
($25): Ferraud has had presence on the U.S. market for decades, but currently lacks an importer. That’s a shame because their wines are distinctive and unique. Take this one — a classic Moulin-à-Vent with fruit-infused charm, minerality, and a lovely fleshiness. … Read more
Domaine Ruet, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Douby 2017
($25, Schatzi Wines): Consumers can select anything that Domaine Ruet makes and be happy with it. This Morgon, from the climat (or vineyard) Douby, is sensational. It has the firmness for which Morgon is known, but with a charming fruitiness and haunting minerality. … Read more
Louis Tête, Beaujolais-Villages (France) 2017
($14): Beaujolais-Villages is a wine that comes from any one or a combination of 38 specified villages, and the category is thought to have the potential for more interesting wines compared to those labeled Beaujolais. This one is juicy, with good weight and concentration, yet not heavy or overly fruity. … Read more
Domaine Bel Avenir, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) En Mortperay 2017
($25): Growers in Moulin-à-Vent, the most robust of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, have embraced the concept of making wines from specific sites, just as in the Côte d’Or, their more famous neighbor in Burgundy to the north. En Mortperay is one such site, situated on the edge of the appellation, bordering Fleurie. … Read more
Dominique Piron, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2017
($30): The Côte du Py is arguably the most famous climat or vineyard in Morgon and possibly all of Beaujolais. Composed of back stone, it can be home to power and dense wines that need considerable age before revealing their charms. … Read more
P. Ferraud & Fils, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Les Charmes 2018
($20): Ferraud, though lacking a U.S. importer now, had been in this market for decades and is a well-established name with a proven track record. Yves-Dominique Ferraud told me he thought the 2018 vintage in Beaujolais was a combination of the ripeness of 2015 and the raciness of 2016.… Read more
Domaine Ruet, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2017
($23, Schatzi Wines): I recently tasted six Beaujolais from this producer, one made without added sulfur, from three different vintages, 2016, 2017 and 2018. They were stunning across the board and demonstrated the enormous talent at the domaine. They have just under 3 acres on the slopes of Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais. … Read more
Piron & Lameloise, Chénas (Beaujolais, France) “Quartz” 2016
($23): The Lameloise family, whose name is synonymous with fine dining because of their Michelin 3-star restaurant in nearby Chagny, owns the vineyard in Chénas, the smallest of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, while Dominique Piron makes the wines. Floral and elegant, it’s a graceful wine that dances on the palate. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard 2017
($30): Syrah is a Janus-like wine, showing a plummy side when the grape is grown in warmer climes and peppery notes when those same grapes are planted in a cooler location. Gary Eberle, who must be a magician, has managed to combine both in this splendid Syrah. … Read more
Lievland Vineyards, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
($20, Vineyard Brands): This Cabernet over-delivers for the price. Perhaps it’s the inclusion of a little Cinsault (8%) and Shiraz (6%), but whatever it is, there is a fabulous combination of savory — black and green olive notes — intertwined with black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine du Landreau, Crémant de Loire (France) “Volage” Rosé Brut Sauvage NV
($28): This wonderful sparkler is not your typical Crémant de Loire Rosé. Made entirely from Cabernet Franc, it has all of the allure of the grape with power and depth. It’s been aged on the lees for 36 months, which imparts a lovely texture. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2017
($14): It should come as no surprise that Michel Chapoutier, one of the star producers in the Rhône Valley, can make lip-smacking, good wine elsewhere. In this case, the elsewhere is across the Rhône, further west in the south of France in Roussillon. … Read more
Louis Tête, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Chante-Loup 2018
($15): Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus, or named villages of Beaujolais, is really a small mountain that emerges from Brouilly, another of the named villages. It has many lieux-dits (place names) on its slope. More and more, Beaujolais producers are identifying specific sites within the cru because they believe the wines are distinctive and reflect the site, just as in the rest of Burgundy. … Read more
Ruffino, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva Ducale Oro” 2014
($41): Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that is supposed to represent the pinnacle of a producer’s bottling. Whether it does is a matter of debate because some producers’ top wine from Chianti Classico region is not a Gran Selezione. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($30): Capezzana is certainly among the top producers, if not the top one, in Carmignano, the DOCG that requires inclusion of Cabernet (either Sauvignon or Franc) in the blend with Sangiovese. Think of it as the original Super Tuscan. Capezzana is incredibly consistent, year after year, producing a beautifully balanced Carmignano that marries fruit and earth perfectly. … Read more
Château Lalande-Borie, Saint Julien, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($37): It’s not often you see Cru Classé Bordeaux that’s ready to drink for under $40. Although you won’t see Cru Classé on the label, Château Lalande-Borie was formerly a part of Château Lagrange, which was classified as a Cru Classé in 1855, which means that technically, it still is. … Read more
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien, Médoc (Burgundy, France) “Croix de Beaucaillou” 2011
($50): In 1995, as part of his upgrading of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Jean-Eugène Borie introduced a “second” wine, Croix de Beaucaillou, which since 2005 has been a separate wine made from a separate vineyard that lies half-way between Lalande-Borie and Ducru-Beaucaillou itself. … Read more
Château Ducluzeau, Listrac – Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015
($27): Château Ducluzeau is a sleeper, in part, because the production is small, about 5,000 bottles annually. The 2015 is an extraordinary value, well worth the search. Owned by Bruno Borie’s mother (he’s the managing director of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou), it is uncommonly suave for a wine from Listrac. … Read more
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2015
($60): Rocche dei Manzoni’s regular Barolo suffers only by comparison to their exquisite single vineyard bottlings. Indeed, it does this wine a disservice to taste it next to the others. This Barolo shows both the elegant, floral side characteristic of the DOCG as well as the power hidden under the surface. … Read more
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Bricco San Pietro, Vigna d’la Roul 2015
($90): Rocche dei Manzoni’s Bricco San Pietro is slightly denser than their Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano, but displays the same elegance and power. Glorious smoky and savory nuances accent and complement its gorgeous fruitiness. There’s not a hint of over-ripeness. … Read more
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Perno, Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano 2015
($105): As my colleague Michael Franz points out, you need to select your 2015 Barolo carefully. The warmth of the growing season resulted in some spectacular wines, while others might be a little over the top and lacking acidity if growers waited too long to harvest. … Read more
Domaine de Montredon, Picpoul de Pinet AOC (Languedoc, France) 2018
($15): Picpoul de Pinet is a name to remember for lively and taut white wines. Made exclusively from the Picpoul grape, which literally means “stings the lip” because of its high acidity, it’s a perfect choice for the heat and humidity of summer. … Read more
Virgile Joly, Languedoc (France) “Le Joly Blanc!” 2017
($20): Though the Languedoc may be best known for its red wines, the whites have gotten better. Take this one, for example. Surprisingly fresh and lively for its southern origins, it delivers lovely weight and texture. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne that conveys a hint of stone fruit flavors with a lovely citrus tang. … Read more
Joseph Perrier, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Royale” Brut NV
($42): The Champagne firm of Joseph Perrier, founded in 1825, has no relation to Perrier-Jouët or Laurent Perrier. Joseph Perrier produces a graceful and precise non-vintage brut from roughly equal amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It’s a joy to sip and drink, in part, I suspect because it typically includes 20 percent of reserve wines. … Read more
Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Moines” Rosé NV
($61): Grace and power is what comes to mind while sipping this Rosé Champagne. The power comes from the red grape-dominant (70 percent), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, blend. Chardonnay provides the elegance. Full-bodied, but not flamboyant, it delivers hints of strawberries and other red fruit flavors. … Read more
Fortress, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($20): The name describes the wine. Big and bold, the tannins are suave, which makes it fine to drink now. Its ripeness imparts a hint of sweetness in the finish. It would be a good choice for highly flavored grilled beef or lamb, even in barbeque sauce.… Read more
Lievland Vineyards, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vines 2017
($16, Vineyard Brands): Chenin Blanc can be one of the great white wines of the world. Its problem, similar to Riesling, another spectacular white wine, is that the wines range from dry to sweet and that the style is often not apparent from looking at the label, confusing the consumer. … Read more
Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016
($17): A blend of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, this charming wine has more finesse than you might expect from wines from this sun-soaked part of France. It delivers a winning combination of bright red fruit-like notes, herbal nuances and spice. … Read more
Mas de la Dame, Alpilles IGP (Provence, France) “La Gourmande” Rouge 2017
($15): Sitting at the base of the Alpilles (little Alps) in Provence, practically adjacent to Les Baux de Provence, the vineyards of Mas de la Dame are some of the most beautifully situated ones in all of France. The near constant “mistral” wind makes organic viticulture there easier, which explains why this wine is made from organically grown grapes. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2015
($100): A younger, more angular version of Matanzas Creek’s splendid 2012 version, the 2015 has less complexity and fewer savory notes at this stage. The tannins are a hint more apparent and perhaps a touch aggressive, yet the balance is still wonderful. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2012
($100): From the minute I pulled the bottle from its carton, I wanted to dislike it. A hundred bucks for a heavy bottle. Not a good start. But that’s why you taste. Labeled simple, “Red Wine,” it’s a Merlot-heavy blend that conveys a lot of everything — dark fruit, earthy notes — and wonderful harmony. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($13, Constellation Brands): Kim Crawford’s Sauvignon Blanc moderates its cutting nature with riper fruitier notes. It’s a softer, gentler expression of New Zealand’s signature wine, which is a wonderful introduction to the style and a great bargain.
89 Michael Apstein May 21, 2019… Read more
Jordan Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($34): In a word, gorgeous. Balanced, with a touch of smoke, a touch of fruitiness and great bracing citrus acidity, which amplifies the enjoyment. The subtle fruitiness is captivating. There’s no heaviness here. The freshness keeps it intriguing throughout the meal. … Read more
Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($57): An early harvest and a short crop describes the 2015 vintage in Sonoma. The warmth that causes an early harvest and a reduced yield can result in concentrated, powerful wines. To Jordan’s credit, they maintained their restrained style that focuses on elegance rather than weight in this Cabernet. … Read more
Wither Hills, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($14): “Bottled electricity” describes this wine. Consumers will either love it or hate because of its lapel-shaking cutting verve. Mouth-cleansing, with the characteristic grapefruit or lime-like freshness, it would be a great choice for oysters, other seafood, or sushi. Frankly, its edginess will cut through even a tomato-based seafood stew. … Read more
Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière Vieilles Vignes 2017
($42, Polaner Selections): The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar. This Santenay falls into the first category. I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2015
($21, Wilson Daniels): The wines from Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG are powerful and tannic red wines that need years, if not a decade, to be ready to drink. If there were ever a need for a “rosso,” that is, a wine from a region that is ready to drink sooner (think Rosso di Montalcino) it is from this region. … Read more
Gulfi, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2017
($22): Regulations require that Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, be made from a blend of Nero d’Avola (50-70%) and Frappato. Gulfi, one of the island’s best producers, uses equal parts for this wine. It’s explosive, in a very delicate way. … Read more
Bisol, Prosecco (Italy) “Jeio” Brut NV
($14, Wilson Daniels): Prosecco has become so popular that its name has become synonymous with sparkling wine, replacing “Champagne” as that moniker. For example, on a recent flight when I requested a sparkling wine, I was offered a “Prosecco,” which turned out to be a Cava. … Read more
Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) “Le Chemin Blanc” 2017
($42, Polaner Selections): Though the 2017 vintage in Burgundy was stylistically inconsistent for reds, the white Burgundies were generally better and more consistent. And that’s true for the white wines from the Mâconnais. Fortunately, and luckily for consumers, Maillet recently has started bottling their wines instead of selling them to the local co-op. … Read more