($15): 
Sitting at the base of the Alpilles (little Alps) in Provence, practically adjacent to Les Baux de Provence, the vineyards of Mas de la Dame are some of the most beautifully situated ones in all of France. The near constant “mistral” wind makes organic viticulture there easier, which explains why this wine is made from organically grown grapes. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2015
($100): 
A younger, more angular version of Matanzas Creek’s splendid 2012 version, the 2015 has less complexity and fewer savory notes at this stage. The tannins are a hint more apparent and perhaps a touch aggressive, yet the balance is still wonderful. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2012
($100): 
From the minute I pulled the bottle from its carton, I wanted to dislike it. A hundred bucks for a heavy bottle. Not a good start. But that’s why you taste. Labeled simple, “Red Wine,” it’s a Merlot-heavy blend that conveys a lot of everything — dark fruit, earthy notes — and wonderful harmony. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($13, Constellation Brands): 
Kim Crawford’s Sauvignon Blanc moderates its cutting nature with riper fruitier notes. It’s a softer, gentler expression of New Zealand’s signature wine, which is a wonderful introduction to the style and a great bargain.
89 Michael Apstein May 21, 2019… Read more
Jordan Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($34): 
In a word, gorgeous. Balanced, with a touch of smoke, a touch of fruitiness and great bracing citrus acidity, which amplifies the enjoyment. The subtle fruitiness is captivating. There’s no heaviness here. The freshness keeps it intriguing throughout the meal. … Read more
Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($57): 
An early harvest and a short crop describes the 2015 vintage in Sonoma. The warmth that causes an early harvest and a reduced yield can result in concentrated, powerful wines. To Jordan’s credit, they maintained their restrained style that focuses on elegance rather than weight in this Cabernet. … Read more
Wither Hills, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($14): 
“Bottled electricity” describes this wine. Consumers will either love it or hate because of its lapel-shaking cutting verve. Mouth-cleansing, with the characteristic grapefruit or lime-like freshness, it would be a great choice for oysters, other seafood, or sushi. Frankly, its edginess will cut through even a tomato-based seafood stew. … Read more
Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière Vieilles Vignes 2017
($42, Polaner Selections): 
The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar. This Santenay falls into the first category. I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2015
($21, Wilson Daniels): 
The wines from Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG are powerful and tannic red wines that need years, if not a decade, to be ready to drink. If there were ever a need for a “rosso,” that is, a wine from a region that is ready to drink sooner (think Rosso di Montalcino) it is from this region. … Read more
Gulfi, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2017
($22): 
Regulations require that Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, be made from a blend of Nero d’Avola (50-70%) and Frappato. Gulfi, one of the island’s best producers, uses equal parts for this wine. It’s explosive, in a very delicate way. … Read more
Bisol, Prosecco (Italy) “Jeio” Brut NV
($14, Wilson Daniels): 
Prosecco has become so popular that its name has become synonymous with sparkling wine, replacing “Champagne” as that moniker. For example, on a recent flight when I requested a sparkling wine, I was offered a “Prosecco,” which turned out to be a Cava. … Read more
Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) “Le Chemin Blanc” 2017
($42, Polaner Selections): 
Though the 2017 vintage in Burgundy was stylistically inconsistent for reds, the white Burgundies were generally better and more consistent. And that’s true for the white wines from the Mâconnais. Fortunately, and luckily for consumers, Maillet recently has started bottling their wines instead of selling them to the local co-op. … Read more
Ballot Millot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2017
($31, Polaner Selections): 
Ballot Millot, a small grower based in Meursault, makes a consistently good line-up of Burgundy, both red and white. With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, consumers need to look to Burgundies with less prestigious labels, such as Bourgogne Blanc instead of Meursault. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) La Croix Blanche 2012
($70): 
Though not the current release, consumers need to be aware of this wine since it is still available. Domaine Parent, clearly one of the top growers in Pommard, opts to bottle this village wine separately because Anne Parent, who runs the domaine with her sister, Catherine, believes it is distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2016
($60): 
The vineyards of Blagny, a hamlet located high on the slope in Puligny-Montrachet, spread over both that village and the village of Meursault. So, it’s not surprising that the wines from Meursault-Blagny have a mineral-like resemblance to those from Puligny. … Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “L’Empreinte” 2017
($47, Polaner Selections): 
With the sky-high prices of wines from the Côte d’Or, consumers who love the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based wines from Burgundy must look elsewhere within that region. Givry, in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good place to start, especially with the wines from Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Trapet Père et Fils, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) “A Minima” 2017
($28, Polaner Selections): 
Trapet Père et Fils, one of the great growers based in Gevery-Chambertin, makes outstanding wines from that village and neighboring villages, such as Marsannay. They also make this under-the-radar wine with an eye-catching nearly blank label with tiny letters.… Read more
Hacienda Grimon, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2016
($20): 
This is the kind of wine that makes Rioja so popular. Nothing sticks out in this harmonious mid-weight wine. The balance of fruit and savory notes reminds you it’s not a fruit bomb. The flavors imparted by oak aging are subtle and integrated nicely. … Read more
Ca’ di Rajo, Prosecco Treviso (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($20): 
Prosecco has taken the world by storm, which means the quality varies from awful to innocuous to very good. Put Ca’ di Rajo’s in the latter category. Weighing in at only 11 percent-stated alcohol, it is, amazingly, both fruity and dry. … Read more
Cantine San Marzano, Salento (Puglia, Italy) Malvasia Nera “Talò” 2017
($17, San Marzano USA): 
Puglia, in Italy’s heel, is home to rich red wines, in part, because of the area’s warmth and sunshine. It is also home to lots of small grape growers, many of whom are interested in making wine. … Read more
E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2016
($61, Vintus): 
Condrieu is a small, 500-acre, appellation just south of Côte Rôtie on the western bank of the Rhône River that produces only white wine made from the Viognier grape. The clone, or bio-type, of Viognier in Condrieu is smaller and lower yielding than Viognier planted elsewhere, which helps explain the expense of the wine. … Read more
E. Guigal, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2017
($42, Vintus): 
Guigal, based in the northern Rhône village of Ampuis, has made Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the southern Rhône’s most famous wine, since the 1940s. But this 2017 is their first white Châteauneuf du Pape. White Châteauneuf du Pape is unusual, since about 95 percent of the appellation’s production is red. … Read more
Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2016
($35, Vineyard Roads):
This is a fabulous value. Benjamin Leroux, the former winemaker at Comte Armand, the famed Pommard property, established his own estate in 2007. Now, like many small estates, has both his own grapes and buys some from growers he’s known over the years. Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresse (Burgundy, France) 2016
($45, Vineyard Roads): 
Auxey-Duresses, a village slightly off Burgundy’s the beaten track, offers great values precisely for that reason. This white Burgundy punches far above its lowly village appellation, delivering bright and cutting minerality along with a hint of creaminess. Another bargain for what it is and another case in my cellar.… Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): 
This glossy Pinot Noir is pure, clean and fruit-focused. Its soft and fleshy texture, supple tannins and a hint of sweetness in the finish make it perfect for drinking now, even as a stand-alone aperitif.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2019… Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir
2016 ($25): 
Rodney Strong first planted Pinot Noir in Russian River Valley in 1968, so the winery has experience with this grape. While basically fruit-focused, savory nuances do emerge. Though supple and smooth, there is a subtle and welcome firmness which lends needed structure to balance the ripeness. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Knights Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($35): 
With its fruit-forward profile and apparent sweet oak flavors, this moderate weight Cabernet Sauvignon will please many consumers. Supple tannins and ripe plum-like flavors add to its ready-to-drink appeal.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2019… Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” Meritage Red Wine 2014
($55): 
This Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant (80%) Bordeaux-style blend (with Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc making up the remainder) is far more complex than their straight Cabernets. Not overdone, it manages to be both elegant and powerful. Non-intrusive tannins provide support without a hint of aggressiveness. … Read more
Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($25): 
Rosso di Montalcino, made from Sangiovese, the same grape that is required for Brunello di Montalcino, requires and undergoes less aging than Brunello, which explains why the wines are ready to drink sooner. Donatella Cinelli Colombini, one the star producers of Brunello, also makes an engaging Rosso. … Read more
Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2016
($44): 
Fontodi, one of the great names in Chianti Classico, is located in the heart of that region, in what’s known as the Conca d’Oro (golden shell) because of the amphitheater-like exposure. It’s a perfect area for bringing Sangiovese, the only grape used for this Chianti Classico, to perfect ripeness. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio al Vento” 2012
($125): 
This is Brunello at its best. Col d’Orcia, one of the leading producers of Brunello, makes fabulous Riserva…but only in the best years. Vintage after vintage, Col d’Orcia’s Poggio al Vento consistently combines power and elegance. The 2012, from an excellent vintage in the Montalcino region, is no exception. … Read more
Gulfi, Sicily DOC (Italy) Carricante “Carjcanti” 2014
($24): 
Carricante, Sicily’s best white grape, is a name to remember because can produce cutting, mineral-infused wines. Combine this grape with a top producer, Gulfi, and unsurprisingly you wind up with terrific wine. Clean and bright, you can almost taste the lava of Mt.… Read more
Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Filetta di Lamole 2016
($44): 
Although this release is only the third vintage of this wine, Giovanni Manetti, owner/winemaker at Fontodi told me they have been working on the project for 15 years. The Filetta vineyard, owned by Manetti’s cousin, is only a few miles from Fontodi’s home base near Panzano, but the wine is very different from their usual Chianti Classico because of the extreme elevation of the vineyard. … Read more
Pascal Jolivet, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2016
($23): 
Although made entirely from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, as required by regulations, Jolivet’s v never screams that grape. Sure, you sense a bite, characteristic of the varietal, but the overall impression is one of a minty minerality with an enlivening citrus finish. … Read more
Tinto Pesquera, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Crianza 2014
($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
The wine from Tinto Pesquera, the Fernandez family’s flagship estate, brought critical acclaim to Alejandro Fernandez decades ago. As much as I like the Crianza from their Condado de Haza estate, this Crianza is just, well, better. … Read more
Bruno Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2015
($28, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Bruno Giacosa was best known for his exceptional Barbaresco and Barolo, often produced from purchased grapes. It turns out that he produced excellent Barbera as well, as this 2015 shows. There’s an ongoing argument as to which is better: Barbera from Alba or from Asti? … Read more
Condado de Haza, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Crianza 2015
($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This must be one of the best wines selling for less than $25 a bottle in today’s market. The estate, Condado de Haza, is part of the Fernandez family’s holding in Ribera del Duero, the area which gained its D.O.… Read more
El Vínculo, La Mancha DO (Spain) Airen “Alejairén” 2015
($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): The Fernández family, headed by patriarch Alejandro who is best known for his Tinto Pesquera, a wine that was instrumental in the formation of the Ribera del Duero DO, has expanded to the La Mancha area. Made entirely from Airén and the only white wine in the Fernández portfolio, Alejairén is bold, expressing ripe stone fruit-like flavors. … Read more
El Vínculo, La Mancha DO (Spain) Crianza 2013
($19, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Made from Cencibel, a thicker-skinned type of Tempranillo, this Crianza comes from the Fernández family’s outpost in La Mancha. It conveys a combination of hearty dark fruit flavors mixed with the spice characteristic of aging in American oak barrels, where it spent 18 months. … Read more
Donnafugata, Vittoria Frappato DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Bell’Assai” 2017
($28): Donnafugata, one of the top producers on that island, makes a floral wine from Frappato, an indigenous Sicilian variety. Light-bodied, it exudes charm and delicacy, but finishes with an engaging touch of bitterness. It could easily take a chill in the summer. … Read more
Donnafugata, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Sul Vulcano” 2016
($35, Folio Fine Wine Partners): You can almost smell and taste the lava-infusion soil of Mount Etna in this wine. This mid-weight red packs lots of flavor for its weight. With a lovely firmness, it’s a wine that cries for food as opposed to a stand-alone aperitif.… Read more
Nicolas Maillart, Champagne (France) Grand Cru Brut Rosé NV
($50): There’s no doubt about the power emanating from this Champagne. It just needs time to reveal it. Initially, it’s hard, almost severe. But give it time in the glass, or as I did, re-stopper it and try it again the next day. … Read more
Domaine Bouzereau-Gruère, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) Blanchot Dessous 2016
($48, AP Imports): This wine exemplifies the confusion surrounding Burgundy. The vineyard, Blanchot, is divided into two parts, Blanchot Dessus (dessus means “upper”) and Blanchot Dessous (dessous means lower). Blanchot Dessus is a classified as a Premier Cru, while the lower part, is just a village wine. … Read more
Domaine Bryczek, Morey Saint Denis (Burgundy, France) Clos Salon 2016
($50, AP Imports): The 2016 vintage in Burgundy was plagued by calamitous weather causing significantly reduced yields in many locales and more than normal variability in quality throughout the region. Some producers wound up making small amounts excellent wine, while others wound up with wines that were out of balance. … Read more
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016
($45): Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, part of the Kendall-Jackson portfolio, prides itself on the mountainous location of its vineyards. The conventional wisdom is that higher elevation vineyards are cooler, which allows slower ripening, better flavor development and better retention of acidity. This Chardonnay, a blend from several vineyards, supports that idea. … Read more
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bear Point Vineyard 2016
($60): Compared to their regular (multi-vineyard blend) Chardonnay, the one from Bear Point Vineyard has better density and is more elegant. Although the concentration is what’s immediately noticeable, its elegance, especially in the finish, is what sticks in your mind. Judicious oak aging adds a subtle creaminess to its citrus-tinged flavors, making it a good choice for chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce. … Read more
Stonestreet Estate Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard 2016
($100): Stonestreet produces single vineyard Chardonnay, which, when tasted side-by-side, are distinctly different. Whether the differences are worth the price differential is something for you and your banker to decide. Upper Barn Vineyard, at 1,800 ft elevation, must be an even cooler site because the wine is racier compared to the Bear Point Chardonnay. … Read more
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2015
($82): Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst bottling comes from a combination of their grapes that don’t make the cut for their top wine along with purchased grapes. In that sense, it’s the Bordeaux equivalent of a “second” wine. Second wines, whether in Bordeaux or California, are a good introduction to a producers’ style at a lower price. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (California) Cabernet Franc 2016
($20): This wine, like most made from Cabernet Franc, is lighter and more herbal than wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon. Less fruity with more emphasis on the savory flavors, it has lovely restraint without being austere. The balance of fruitiness and earthy qualities sings. … Read more
Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien (Médoc, Bordeaux, France) 2015
($117): In a word, show-stopping. Léoville Poyferré has really upped their game beginning with the 2010 vintage. They made significant changes in the winery that year, installing smaller fermenting vats to allow them to have even more precision in fermenting grapes from the different vineyard parcels. … Read more