Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Ferret, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2016

($44, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Ferret has always been one of the top names in Pouilly-Fuissé, being one of the first to move from bulk to bottled wine after World War II to ensure quality.  Since being acquired by Beaune-based Maison Louis Jadot in 2008, Ferret’s wines have reached new heights, no doubt, in part due to Audrey Braccini, their exceptionally talented winemaker. Read more

P. Ferraud et Fils, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, France) “La Dynastie des Ferraud” 2015

($30):  Though Ferraud’s wines have been in the U.S. market in the past, they currently have no importer, which is a shame because they consistently make distinctive Beaujolais.  (The prices I quote come from a world-wide averages.)   My experience with their wines comes from decades ago when they were imported and, more recently, drinking them in Paris bistros. Read more

Louis Tête, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Chante-Loup 2018

($15):  Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus, or named villages of Beaujolais, is really a small mountain that emerges from Brouilly, another of the named villages.  It has many lieux-dits (place names) on its slope.  More and more, Beaujolais producers are identifying specific sites within the cru because they believe the wines are distinctive and reflect the site, just as in the rest of Burgundy. Read more

Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016

($30):  Capezzana is certainly among the top producers, if not the top one, in Carmignano, the DOCG that requires inclusion of Cabernet (either Sauvignon or Franc) in the blend with Sangiovese.  Think of it as the original Super Tuscan.  Capezzana is incredibly consistent, year after year, producing a beautifully balanced Carmignano that marries fruit and earth perfectly. Read more

Joseph Perrier, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Royale” Brut NV

($42):  The Champagne firm of Joseph Perrier, founded in 1825, has no relation to Perrier-Jouët or Laurent Perrier.  Joseph Perrier produces a graceful and precise non-vintage brut from roughly equal amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.  It’s a joy to sip and drink, in part, I suspect because it typically includes 20 percent of reserve wines. Read more

Mas de la Dame, Alpilles IGP (Provence, France) “La Gourmande” Rouge 2017

($15):  Sitting at the base of the Alpilles (little Alps) in Provence, practically adjacent to Les Baux de Provence, the vineyards of Mas de la Dame are some of the most beautifully situated ones in all of France.  The near constant “mistral” wind makes organic viticulture there easier, which explains why this wine is made from organically grown grapes. Read more

Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière Vieilles Vignes 2017

($42, Polaner Selections):  The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar.  This Santenay falls into the first category.  I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. Read more

Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) “Le Chemin Blanc” 2017

($42, Polaner Selections):  Though the 2017 vintage in Burgundy was stylistically inconsistent for reds, the white Burgundies were generally better and more consistent.   And that’s true for the white wines from the Mâconnais.  Fortunately, and luckily for consumers, Maillet recently has started bottling their wines instead of selling them to the local co-op. Read more