($26, Artemis Wines International): The usual–for Margaret River–delightful combination of ripe fruit and herbs buttressed by excellent structure marks this very nice wine. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
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Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Mangan” 2004
($42, Young’s Market): A fascinating blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Petit Verdot, this purple, inky wine looks huge, but actually is more like an intense, juicy Dolcetto with fine tannins and great character. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Adams Road” 2003
($15, Negociants USA): Rich and supple, with some herbal elements, this wine reflects the interplay of sweet ripe fruit and slightly savory elements. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Howard Park, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Leston Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): Lovely cassis fruit, hints of chocolate and fine tannins combine to make this a juicy, fleshy wine. A great $20 value! 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($25, Outback Red Imports): The relatively warm location of this estate probably explains the wine’s abundant cassis character and its more subtle herbal elements. Length and supple, ripe tannins make it an engaging wine even at this young age. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Deep Woods Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2004
($35, Outback Red Imports): Owner Peter Fogarty says that this is his best wine. Made entirely from their estate-grown fruit, the Merlot component imparts an attractive herbal character that complements the overall juicy impression. It has an impressive, silky texture. 91 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 1999
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): This succulent wine offers not just fruit flavors but also hints of chocolate. Despite a slightly hot finish, it’s a classy, complex wine. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2006
Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Etched Label” 2003
($55, Artemis Wines International): This is a resounding success for the first vintage of what is sure to be this producer’s flagship wine. The quality and complexity comes from 35-year old vines, low yields (two to three tons per acre), and the talent of winemaker Nigel Kinsman.… Read more
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
($27, Negociants USA): Some Margaret River wineries had trouble ripening Cabernet in 2002 because it was an unusually cool growing season. Vasse Felix succeeded admirably because they used more grapes from the warmer–northern–part of the region. They fashioned a silky, ripe cassis-infused wine that still retains attractively herbal, but not unripe, elements.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2000
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): I tasted this at a seminar on Australian and New Zealand wines that I led for a group of undergraduate students at Harvard after my return from Western Australia. It was the wine of the night and a perfect accompaniment to roasted lamb.… Read more
Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Diana Madeline” 2004
($70, Young’s Market): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cullen’s flagship wine is named in honor of Vanya’s mother. Intense but balanced and layered, it has great complexity and finesse. Floral notes and aromatic hints of herbs and spice get this wine off to a great start, and nicely interwoven ripe fruit flavors finish with supple tannins.… Read more
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Art Series” 2001
($45, Old Bridge Cellars): A harmonious combination of subtle chocolate, herbs, and yes, plenty of fruit, makes you want to drink this now. But resist. Drink the 2000 now and cellar this one for a few years because it will improve as the tannins soften and the flavors continue to unfold.… Read more
Howard Park, Great Southern (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Scotsdale Vineyard 2003
($20, Commonwealth Wine & Spirits): This wine’s ripe fruit flavors balance the herbal and floral notes, which are more pronounced here than in the Margaret River bottling because the Great Southern region is notably cooler. This is an elegant, layered wine, and another great value!… Read more
Refined Reds from the Wild West
The labels say “product of Australia,” but red wines from Western Australia are about as un-Australian as you can get. Those expecting super ripe flavors and 15 percent alcohol so common in Australian wines are in for a major–and pleasant–surprise. These wines, whether made from Cabernet or Shiraz, have elegance, finesse and complexity.… Read more
Starved Dog Lane, Adelaide Hills (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz/Viognier 2003
($15, Pacific Wine Partners): The Aussies, following what the French often do in Côte Rôtie, have blended a little white wine, Viognier, with Shiraz. The delicate floral elements, undoubtedly from the Viognier, tame the Shiraz without stripping it of spice. The cooler Adelaide Hills climate imparts a refreshing lift.… Read more
Lindemans, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($10): Reserve 2002 ($10): A big step above their Bin 50 Southeastern Australian Shiraz, the Reserve bottling, drawn exclusively from sources in South Australia, is a great buy. Its gamey, earthy complexity is an unexpected surprise for a wine at this price.… Read more
Fox Creek, McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz/Grenache 2001
($19, Vineyard Brands): This is yet another intense Australian wine that carries its 14.5+ percent alcohol effortlessly. A juicy combination of spice from Grenache and rich plumminess from Shiraz makes this wine a joy to drink. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2006… Read more
Craggy Range Winery, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2002
($60, Kobrand): Craggy Range Winery, an outstanding producer specializing in wines from single vineyards, has entered the upscale Syrah sweepstakes with their Le Sol offering. Their philosophy is that unique wines arise from unique growing conditions; hence their single vineyard focus.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more
Bodegas Vinedos de Murcia, Jumilla (Spain) Shiraz/Cabernet/Monastrell “Mad Dogs and Englishmen” 2003
($10, Click Imports): At least some Spaniards have learned quickly how to market Old World wines to us geographically-challenged New World wines drinkers. They put the seemingly incomprehensible, but of course, essential, geographic material on the back label. The consumer is captured by the far more memorable name, Mad Dogs and Englishmen, followed by the varietal blend, on the front label.… Read more
Red Bicyclette, Vin de Pays d’Oc (France) Syrah 2004
($10, Red Bicyclette, USA): I was prepared not to like this wine because of its cutesy name and label, but in fact, it is a pleasant, high value, southern French red wine. Plummy and quite supple, it is easy to drink before a meal and then take it to the table with burgers.… Read more
Vintage New York
The current fashion in wine, certainly in New World wines, is for ripe, fruity flavors and the massive alcohol that invariably accompanies them. Consumers looking for alternatives need to look outside the mainstream. Wines from New York State, which certainly qualify as “outside the mainstream,” offer an extra touch of ripeness that is the New World’s signature, while retaining vibrancy that a cool climate imparts.… Read more
Palmer Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chardonnay 2004
($15): Tired of heavy, out of balance New World Chardonnay? Try this delicious wine, not lean and green as some East Coast whites can be, but lush without being overdone. Its bright acidity keeps it lively during a meal. A great value.… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2002
($16, Hess Collection Imports): Peter Lehmann makes a range of excellent wines. This boisterous Barossa Valley wine delivers smoky, earthy elements in the nose that follow on the palate. Remarkable suppleness makes it easy to drink. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Clancy’s Red Wine 2003
($16, Hess Collection Imports): An intriguing blend of about 40% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, Clancy’s Red Wine is perfect for those who prefer strong structure in their red wines. The blend works because the firmness of Cabernet supports the ripe fruit of the Shiraz and Merlot without dominating either.… Read more
Jacob’s Creek, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($13, Pernod Ricard): Upfront ripe berry fruit, along with a touch of spice and mint, make this an engaging, easy to like Shiraz. It is full-bodied but remarkably harmonious for a wine touching 15 percent alcohol 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Montes, Apalta Valley (Colchagua, Chile) Syrah “Folly” 2003
($70, TGIC Importers): Made entirely from Syrah grown on the upper slopes of Montes’Apalta Valley Vineyard, this is an unabashedly big and extracted wine with flavors that emerge over time in the glass. Oak notes are apparent, but not overwhelming, and the ripe supple tannins provide structure that keeps you coming back for more.… Read more
Selecting Wine in a Restaurant
It is the part of restaurant dining that most people dread. You are with a group of colleagues or friends, or perhaps on a special date. The conversation is flowing, everyone is relaxed and having a good time. Then, the waiter gives you the wine list.… Read more
Yarden, Galilee (Israel) Chardonnay Odem Vineyard 2002
($20): The wines that the Golan Heights Winery produces under their Yarden label just get better and better. This 2002 Chardonnay, from an organic vineyard, is certainly a member of the buttery school of Chardonnay. Rich and intense, it has enough balancing acidity because of the elevation of the vineyards in Galilee to hold it all together.… Read more
California Syrah Adds Warm Shine to Winter
Syrah is the new merlot. The explosion in plantings of this grape shows how hot the wine is. In 1985, there were about 100 acres of syrah vines in the United States. Now, there are about 20,000 acres.
The controversy over the origin of the grape explains its two names.… Read more
Dow’s, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($20, Premium Port Wines): Another winner from this outstanding vintage, Dow’s rendition is mellow, sweet and refined, coupled with an engaging earthiness. A charming choice to sip slowly after dinner. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Fonseca, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000 ($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port or LBV, is a reasonable alternative to vintage Port. Bottled after five or six years of barrel aginginstead of two for vintage Portit needs no further aging upon release nor decanting since its sediment remains behind in the barrel.… Read more
Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997
($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs.… Read more
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut “Grande Année” 1997
($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2005
($11, WJ Deutsch): Full, fresh and fruity, just as Beaujolais Nouveau should be. The concentration and extract make this year’s version very appealing and, hopefully, bodes well for 2005 Burgundy in general. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Author’s Expertise Makes Book an Intoxicating Read
Paul Lukacs, author of “American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine” (Houghton Mifflin, 2000), has written another great book about American wines that every wine lover, especially Francophiles, should own. The beauty of his new book, “The Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards, and Vintages” (W.W.… Read more
This poor man’s Barolo is surprisingly rich
Barolo is the king of Italian wines. Made from the nebbiolo grape grown in a small, sharply delimited area surrounding the village of Barolo, near Alba in Piedmont, it requires a king’s ransom to put some in your cellar. Even after paying $50 to $100 a bottle and often more, you need plenty of patience because it’s a wine that needs many years of bottle aging before its complex glories emerge.… Read more
Reserve Wines Score, But at What Price?
Bait and switch, an unsavory tactic in the used-car business, is finding its way into the wine industry. Think of the bait as a New World reserve wine that is produced simply to generate a 90-point-plus score from a top wine critic.… Read more
Enjoy a vintage Port without the waiting
Vintage Port, though one of the world’s great wines, is made the same way as all Port. The grapes are harvested, crushed, and fermented for only three days, instead of the usual 7-10 days for red table wine. At that point, the winemaker adds brandy, which raises the alcohol to 20 percent and kills the yeast, stopping fermentation before all the grape sugar has been converted to alcohol.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($20, Ex Cellars): Anyone who believes that Chenin Blanc makes only insipid dry wine has never tasted Baumard’s Savennières. The 2002 has a magical combination of honey-like ripeness (without being sweet) intertwined with an alluring minerality. A versatile wine with food, it is ideal with flavorful Asian fare.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($60, Ex Cellars): A glorious wine, this is rich with ripe pear and honey flavors, but it also shows a captivating delicacy. The sweetness is balanced perfectly by focused acidity, providing a striking combination of richness and elegance. This is a must for your cellar.… Read more
Rancho Zabaco, California (United States) Zinfandel “Dancing Bull” 2003
($12): Even allowing for the fact that the Gallo empire can draw upon vast vineyard resources strewn across California, it still amazes me that they can pull together a Zin this fine for twelve bucks. This wine is actually more interesting and useful than many counterparts now selling for upwards of $20 in the current Zin-crazed era, and though its balanced, integrated profile won’t jerk you to attention like many other bottlings, it will win your admiration with its impressive combination of bold flavor and seamless integration.… Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 1999
($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot’s rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin.… Read more
2001 Io has plumlike and peppery contrast
Back in the ’80s, when syrah, grenache, and mourvèdre were hardly known outside their traditional home in France’s Rhône Valley, a group of winemakers advocated growing them in California.
One of these Rhône Rangers was Byron ”Ken” Brown, who introduced Rhône varieties into the Santa Ynez Valley of Santa Barbara County while working at Zaca Mesa Winery.… Read more
A French Connection Lifts Oregon Vineyard
Although the film “Sideways” highlighted Southern California as pinot noir country, Oregon is also a leading source of superb wine made from that grape. Many comparative tastings have shown that Oregon’s pinot noirs rank with the world’s best, and to many consumers it has become that state’s signature wine.… Read more
Who Says New World Wines Don’t Develop?
The major criticisms of wines from the New World are that they have too much fruit and alcohol and too little subtlety and elegance. Critics go on to say that these wines are unbalanced and fail to develop complexity and layers of non-fruit flavors as they age.… Read more
Ktima Kir Yianni, Amyndeo (Greece) “Akakies” 2004
($14, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Rosé season is about spent in my neck of the woods, but this wine is certainly not spent, and it is worth a search for those living in warm climates. Admirably dry and restrained, it features very tasty fruit with red cherries and a bright, almost citrus edge.… Read more
A cabernet sauvignon for an occasion
Frank Altamura, the winemaker at his eponymous property in California, is a farmer at heart. ”The big fun is in the vineyards,” he says.
With no formal winemaking training, he learned by doing, first at Sterling Vineyards and then at other notable Napa Valley properties: Trefethen, Caymus, and Dunn.… Read more
A $10 Spanish Red That’s Easily Sipped
Although Spain has been producing wines since the Phoenicians settled there, they have become fashionable only recently. The modernization of Spain’s wine industry and leap in quality come from an influx of investment after it joined the European Community in 1988.… Read more