Christian Moueix, perhaps the most influential wine figure in Pomerol and St. Émilion where he oversees his family’s ten properties, also owns Dominus Estate in the Napa Valley. During a recent trip to California to supervise activities at Dominus, he stopped in Boston and we met and tasted for three illuminating hours in my kitchen.… Read more
All posts by admin
New Zealand Bubbly Deserves A Toast
Champagne, without doubt the world’s best bubbly, is a good but pricey way to alleviate end-of-summer blues. Often, we must make do with a less-expensive alternative, sparkling wine.
Notwithstanding the label of some California sparkling wines, true champagne comes only from a specified method using chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier grown in the Champagne region of France, about 100 miles east of Paris.… Read more
Torrontes offers sweet taste of summer
One sip of torrontes, made from Argentina’s most widely planted white grape of the same name, will keep you in the summer spirit; it is the perfect summertime wine.
It is likely the grape arrived in Argentina from Northern Spain, but its precise lineage and origin remain obscure, so don’t bother looking for a European counterpart.… Read more
Budini, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2003
($11, Vine Connections): Here’s what I refer to as a “pizza wine,” an inexpensive, flavor-packed bottle that can hold up to pepperoni. It is a fresh, ripe Malbec that, thankfully, is neither overoaked nor over extracted. Budini is the name of an Argentine cat that can appear larger than it is by puffing its fur when threatened.… Read more
La Posta del Viñatero, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2004
($17, Vine Connections): Argentine wine producers rarely make a wine from a single vineyard because they fear any particular locale might be wiped out by an isolated hailstorm. This Malbec was worth the risk. Rich, without being heavy, it has unexpected complexity and polish.… Read more
Luca, Altos de Mendoza (Argentina) Syrah 2003
($30, Vine Connections): Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolas, who runs one of Argentina’s best wineries, aims to make small quantities of very high quality wines from particular sites. Although she started in 1997, her first commercial wine was from 1999 because rain effectively washed out the 1998 vintage for her.… Read more
La Posta’s 2003 bonarda is a lively dinner partner
By now, many wine drinkers are accustomed to ordering malbec, currently Argentina’s signature wine. But how many know or have even heard of bonarda, Argentina’s second most important red wine grape? As recently as 25 years ago, it was Argentina’s most popular red grape, as growers planted it after they ripped out malbec.… Read more
A Conversation with Christian Moueix
Perhaps people who spend their entire life with Merlot become like the wine: easy-going and charming, without hard edges. That describes Christian Moueix, a man who is remarkably straightforward, especially for someone so important and influential in the world of wine.… Read more
2001 Napanook a ‘second’ with first-class traits
Christian Moueix was born with merlot in his blood, which makes what he has done in Napa Valley all the more amazing. His family owns or controls the most prestigious properties in Pomerol, including Chateau Petrus, one of Bordeaux’s finest wines.… Read more
N.Y. Riesling lacks cloying sweetness
New York wines lack the cachet of those from California, which is too bad since some, like Riesling, are stellar and more exciting than their West Coast counterparts.
The Finger Lakes region, with almost 100 wineries, accounts for 90 percent of the state’s wine.… Read more
Bring on the Lo Mein, but Hold the Corkscrew
WINE NEW ZEALAND SAUVIGNON BLANC
Carry-out Chinese food has been one way to get through the worst heat spells this summer. That begs the question of what to drink with it.
Some prefer beer, while others complain that it’s too heavy.… Read more
Critic’s success story is an intoxicating read
Elin McCoy’s ”Emperor of Wine, The Rise of Robert M. Parker Jr. and the Reign of American Taste” ($25.95; Ecco) is an essential book for anyone interested in wine, but it would also be enjoyed by general readers, especially those interested in a uniquely American accomplishment.… Read more
Casa da Vila Verde, Vinho Verde (Portugal) 2003
($10, Signature): Casa de Vila Verde has overcome the problem that plagues all too many bottlings of Vinho Verde-cutting acidity without the ripe fruit flavors to balance it. The scorching heat of 2003 ripened grapes nicely in this northwestern part of Portugal, which explains the better fruit flavors-green apples-to complement that refreshing zing.… Read more
2002 Red Burgundies: Catch Them While You Can
Although they may lack the cachet of wines from small growers, such as Lafarge or Mongeard-Mugneret, the Burgundies made by négociants, especially in 2002, are not to be missed. Négociants are companies, either large or small, that buy grapes or newly made wines in bulk from growers.… Read more
Let Your Palate Pick What’s Fit to Savor
It’s important to trust your palate when it comes to wine. Recommendations from so-called experts and friends are helpful, of course, but should never be the final word because sometimes reviewers disagree. Take, for example, Grgich’s 2002 Chardonnay. A national specialized wine magazine gave it an average score, 76, earlier in the year, but I’ve tasted it twice recently and thought it was terrific.… Read more
Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Maison Dieu 2002
($19, Frederick Wildman): Potel owns just one small, four-acre, vineyard called Maison Dieu between the towns of Beaune and Pommard, on the “wrong side of the tracks.” The wine doesn’t even qualify for a town name, but must be sold under Burgundy’s least prestigious appellation, Bourgogne.… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($200, Dreyfus Ashby): A domaine bottling, this Bonnes Mares is staggeringly good, plush and balanced, with a seemingly endless finish. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($125, Kobrand): Always my favorite, Jadot’s Bonnes Mares, a domaine wine, is suave, long, layered, and luxurious. The tannins and structure are there, but unobtrusive, and bode well for development. 97 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($175, Dreyfus Ashby): Sometimes wines from Grand Cru vineyards are disappointing. Not this domaine bottling. It has a magical combination of power and elegance and the extra umph that should characterize a Grand Cru. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Petit Chapelle 2002
($55, Kobrand): From purchased grapes, Jacques Lardière, Jadot’s exceptionally talented winemaker, has produced a very good, earthy, surprisingly big wine from a lesser known premier cru. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2002
($25, Dreyfus Ashby): The Côte de Beaune appellation, less well known in the US than Côte de Beaune Villages, ranks between Beaune and the Beaune 1er Cru in stature, acording to Véronique Drouhin. Primarily made from wines from the young vines of Drouhin’s flagship property, Beaune Clos des Mouches, it has forward, pure ripe fruit flavors, little tannin, and good acid.… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Chorey lès Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2002
($25, Dreyfus Ashby): Wines from Chorey les Beaune, the only village in the Côte d’Or without a premier cru vineyard, offer great value when they are crafted by a talented producer like Drouhin. With pure fresh red fruit flavors, this one is uncomplicated and charming now.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($100, Kobrand): Also from purchased grapes, this Charmes Chambertin attests to the validity of the appellation contrôllée system. It has more of everything–complexity, length, and power–than the Petite Chapelle. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chambolle Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2002
($48, Louis Latour, Inc.): Here is a great village wine, fleshy and plump, with unexpected length. Delicious now. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Nicolas Potel, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Vignes Franches 2002
($36, Frederick Wildman): The pure cherry-like fruit is packaged here in Potel’s signature silky suaveness. Tightly wound at this stage, I expect it will blossom beautifully over the next five years. I also put this one in my cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Beaune du Châteaux 2002
($40, Clicquot, Inc.): This wine, which has been sold widely in France, made its first US appearance in 2002. A blend made exclusively from up to 16 of Bouchard’s 1er Cru vineyards in Beaune which are not bottled separately, such as Beaune Marconnets or Beaune Grèves, it’s a great buy.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2002
($36, Kobrand): This more muscular wine, also from a family owned vineyard on the border with Pommard, has great color and concentration without being overdone. Exceptionally long, it’s even bigger, but not necessarily better, than the Theurons. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Theurons 2002
($36, Kobrand): A bottling from a vineyard owned by the heirs of the Jadot family–Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot–this is a concentrated wine, rather big for a Beaune, with great texture and length. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2002
($46, Louis Latour, Inc.): Latour owns about a third–over 7 acres–in this prized vineyard from which he makes consistently excellent wine. The 2002 is glorious, concentrated and well structured. I would drink his Volnay En Chevrets while waiting for this one to evolve.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules 2002
($48, Kobrand): Jadot’s flagship Beaune from a portion of the Vignes Franches vineyard, the Clos des Ursules is always a winner. The 2002 is no exception. With more structure than their other Beaune 1er Cru, it should turn out very well.… Read more
A Match for Either Burgers or Lobsters
Chenin blanc gets no respect, and there’s a reason: Most wines made from this grape are insipidly sweet and characterless.
There are exceptions. The Loire village of Vouvray is home to fruity but racy wines made from chenin blanc that are definitely not insipid and go down quite nicely in the summer heat.… Read more
’02 Quincy could be a local favorite
If there was ever a wine that should fly off the shelves based on the name alone, especially south of Boston, it is Domaine Henri Bourgeois’s 2002 Quincy. Fortunately, the wine doesn’t have to rest solely on labeling; it’s delicious and well priced, too.… Read more
Paraduxx an exuberant blend from California
Duckhorn Vineyards made a name for itself in the late 1970s by producing an exceptional wine from merlot, a grape considered at that time best suited for blending. … Read more
A carmenere that’s complex without the cost
Some grapes are unique to a locale. Carmenere is one that used to be. Along with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot, it was used in 19th-century France to make red Bordeaux. But it was exported to Chile at that time, when the modern Chilean wine industry was getting started, and now it is found throughout that nation and rarely elsewhere.… Read more
A wine blend from quality grapes
In 1395, Phillip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, banned what he called the ”très mauvais” (very bad) gamay grape from Burgundy, relegating it to Beaujolais, a less prestigious area further south. But as with many royal decrees, not everybody listened. So there is still plenty of gamay planted in Burgundy, even though pinot noir is considered the red grape of that region.… Read more
A Sancerre substitute is more than suitable
White wines from Sancerre and its neighboring Loire River town of Pouilly, which gives us Pouilly Fume, have grown so popular that it is unusual to find a bottle from either for less than $20. Their appeal comes from a lively combination of minerality and zestiness derived from the sauvignon blanc grape grown on the region’s limestone soil.… Read more
Collaboration creates a fine pinot noir
Many of the world’s greatest wines, which can be labeled ”estate bottled” according to US regulations, come from vineyards the winery owns. Vineyard ownership gives the winemaker control over two critical components that determine quality: grape yield and harvest time.… Read more
A cheaper option to chic Brunello
Montalcino, a tiny town perched upon a mountain just south of the Chianti region in Tuscany, is home to one of Italy’s greatest red wines, Brunello di Montalcino.
Brunello is the local name for sangiovese grosso, a variety of sangiovese, Tuscany’s most important red grape; it ripens well on the surrounding hillsides to produce a wine with power, complexity, and suaveness.… Read more
Spanish wines are life of the party
Although Spain is firmly entrenched in the Old World viticulturally — they label the wines by where the grapes grow rather than by grape name — talented young winemakers are experimenting as though they are working in California, and no region exemplifies the dynamism of Spanish wines better than Ribera del Duero.… Read more
Suddenly, pinot noir is the star attraction
Red Burgundies, the vast majority of which are made from pinot noir, have tempted wine connoisseurs for decades. And even though excellent pinot noir from Oregon, California, and, most recently, New Zealand has been increasingly available, it has remained a bit of a cult wine.… Read more
Don’t overlook village Burgundies
In all of Burgundy there are only six white wine vineyards called grand cru, the French government’s highest ranking. Two of them lie solely within Puligny-Montrachet and two, Le Montrachet and Batard Montrachet (literally, the bastard Montrachet), are shared with Chassagne-Montrachet, the neighboring town.… Read more
A pink champagne that whispers ‘I love you’
Although some occasions call for inexpensive bubbly, Valentine’s Day is the time to splurge on the good stuff, rosé champagne, the most romantic drink in the world. With gorgeous pale pink color and strawberry or raspberry overtones, it is a sensual drink that goes well with a wide variety of foods, including chocolate.… Read more
’03 Summer Heat Spurs Ripe, Varied Selections
The blistering heat in Europe during the summer of 2003 explains the character and the enormous variability of the wines made that year. Most parts of France recorded the earliest harvest on record as searing temperatures ripened grapes rapidly. Winemakers in Burgundy, Beaujolais, and the Rhone Valley all told me that they had never experienced conditions like those in 2003.… Read more
Rich, potent vintage or tawny port will take the chill away
In wine, freezing temperatures mean it’s time for port, a fortified wine made from grapes grown in Portugal’s Duoro River Valley. Port starts life like any red wine: Up to five kinds of red grapes are harvested and crushed, sometimes still by foot, which allows the sugar-laden juice to come in contact with yeast so fermentation can begin.… Read more
2002 Vintage Burgundy is the Best in Years
The 2002 vintage was terrific for both white and red Burgundy, the best since 1990. Consumers should snap up those remaining on retailers’ shelves because few are available from the wineries. And those that are will be purchased using dollars that are far weaker than when the 2002s were bought initially.… Read more
White Marsannay is subtle and satisfying
White Burgundy, made almost exclusively from chardonnay, is one of the most sought-after wines in the world.
Despite tremendous advances in California and other New World locales with chardonnay, white Burgundy remains the benchmark for wines made from that grape. But buying Burgundy is not easy.… Read more
French connection lifts Chilean wine
Although Chile is located in the New World, its wine industry is rooted in France. During the prosperity of the mid-19th century, Chilean families who had acquired great wealth, often from mining, imported vines and sometimes winemakers from Bordeaux.
Over 100 years later, in the late-20th century, another emigration of Bordeaux wine talent has reinvigorated the Chilean wine industry.… Read more
Sauvignon blanc lightens the atmosphere
The combination of August’s heat and humidity with even mildly spicy fare, like chicken fajitas, is an impediment to enjoying the rich white Burgundies or California Chardonnays. Lighter and zestier wine, such as sauvignon blanc, is the order of the day.… Read more
Bouchard chardonnay refined and refreshing
Chardonnay, America’s favorite white wine, is an especially good choice in the summer to accompany our abundance of local seafood. Its traditional home – and the place where the world’s best chardonnay is made – is Burgundy. The 2002 vintage there, the best since 1990, is a compelling reason to discover – or rediscover – these wines.… Read more
2000 deemed a good year for red Bordeaux — at all price levels
Robert M. Parker Jr., the world’s most influential wine critic, declared 2000 “a phenomenal year that might turn out to be one of the greatest vintages Bordeaux has ever produced.” The Wine Spectator magazine called it the best vintage for red Bordeaux since 1961.… Read more