All posts by admin

L’Ecole No. 41, Walla Walla (Washington) Pepper Bridge Vineyard Red Blend “Apogee” 2003

($45): Marty Clubb makes two wines, Apogee and Perigee, meant to mirror each other as expressions of two of the best known vineyards in Walla Walla, Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills. The latter tends toward a feminine, floral brightness underlined by an earth core; the former is usually has much deeper structure and a darker fruit profile.… Read more

Australia’s western frontier: Maverick vintners make sophisticated, well-priced wines on the other side of the Outback

Everyone knows about Australia’s inexpensive, fruit-driven, mass-produced wines — think Yellow Tail, the largest-selling wine brand in U.S. food stores by dollar volume, according to ACNielsen.

But there is a wine-producing part of the country that shatters just about every aspect of that image.… Read more

Prosecco: Sparkling Summer Sipping

Prosecco, Italy’s unique and stellar contribution to the world of sparkling wine, must have been invented for summertime.  Although the Italians drink it year round as an aperitif (consuming over two-thirds of the region’s 3 million case annual production), summer is the perfect discovery time for those unfamiliar with the joys of this light and “friendly” wine. … Read more

It Takes a Noble Grape to Make a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano exemplifies the confusion surrounding Italian wine labels.  This wine’s meteoric increase in quality over the past decade has yet to be matched by its price, so it’s definitely worth unraveling the name.

The Italians name their wines by place name, such as Chianti, or grape name — think Pinot Grigio — or both, Dolcetto d’Alba. … Read more

Special Report: Bordeaux 2005, A Vintage to Cellar

After a week in Bordeaux, where I tasted more than 400 wines from the 2005 vintage, there is no question that this is a great vintage for red, dry white and sweet white wines. Although nature was equally benevolent across the regions, winemaking techniques (how long to macerate, how much new wood) and decisions (when to pick) resulted in dramatically different styles of wine, especially in Saint-Emilion.… Read more

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

($27, Negociants USA): Some Margaret River wineries had trouble ripening Cabernet in 2002 because it was an unusually cool growing season. Vasse Felix succeeded admirably because they used more grapes from the warmer–northern–part of the region. They fashioned a silky, ripe cassis-infused wine that still retains attractively herbal, but not unripe, elements.… Read more

Cullen, Margaret River (Western Australia, Australia) “Diana Madeline” 2004

($70, Young’s Market): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Cullen’s flagship wine is named in honor of Vanya’s mother. Intense but balanced and layered, it has great complexity and finesse. Floral notes and aromatic hints of herbs and spice get this wine off to a great start, and nicely interwoven ripe fruit flavors finish with supple tannins.… Read more

Refined Reds from the Wild West

The labels say “product of Australia,” but red wines from Western Australia are about as un-Australian as you can get. Those expecting super ripe flavors and 15 percent alcohol so common in Australian wines are in for a major–and pleasant–surprise. These wines, whether made from Cabernet or Shiraz, have elegance, finesse and complexity.… Read more