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Diebolt-Vallois, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV

($40):  It is unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne, especially at this price, since most of the single Chardonnay cépage wine goes into vintage or super premium bottlings.  The Diebolt-Vallois delivers all the grace and precision you would expect from a Blanc de Blancs coupled with substantial body, making a good choice to bring to the table after you have a glass — or two — as an aperitif.Read more

Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Charmelottes Vieilles Vignes “1939” 2020

($80):  Unlike the rest of Burgundy, the 1er Cru classification in Montagny has little significance since a whopping 58 percent of vineyards are classified as such.  In any case, this Montagny is outstanding, perhaps the best I have ever had.  It shows what old vines in the hands of a detailed-oriented and talented producer can achieve. Read more

Domaine Louis Michel et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2020

($56, Vineyard Brands):  Louis Michel’s floral Vaillons couldn’t be more different from their weightier Butteaux.  Yet, they are both superb.  That’s the beauty of Burgundy in general and Chablis in particular.  The same grape, Chardonnay in this case, grown on neighboring hills, produces vastly different, but equally enjoyable, wines. Read more

From Decanter Magazine: Capezzana’s Trefiano: Quintessential Carmignano

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of Trefiano – Tenuta di Capezzana’s stunning take on Carmignano Riserva – a vertical tasting of a handful of vintages ranging from 1988 to 2019 (the current release) was held in Florence this February.

In preparation for the tasting, I opened a bottle of the 2015 from my own cellar, so I have included my impression of that below, along with the wines from the tasting.… Read more

Hark Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) “Spark” 2019

($48):  This Cabernet Franc-dominate Bordeaux blend confirms what Thomas Jefferson knew centuries ago: Virginia’s Monticello AVA, located in the middle of state, is good place to grow grapes and make wine.  Hark’s mid-weight Spark does actually light up the palate.  A “just right” amount of structure provides a backbone to this plummy red without being intrusive. Read more

Argentiera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio al Ginepri” 2022 

($25, Volio Imports):  This ripe, 14.5 percent stated alcohol, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend delivers up-front fruitiness wrapped in plush tannins and supported by a touch of firmness that prevents it from being flabby.  Good acidity and a hint of bitterness in the finish keep it in balance though the overt fruitiness still predominates at this stage. Read more

Afton Mountain Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) “T” 2019

($55):  This Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend was one of the top 12 wines in the recently completed Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition.  Firm, yet mild and unobtrusive tannins, presumably from the Cabernet Sauvignon, provide needed structure for the plummy fruit notes.  The suave texture speaks to talented winemaking and what must have come from selecting only the best fruit. Read more

Chianti Classico: A Perennial Favorite

Tasting through hundreds of Chianti Classico wines from the 2020, 2021, and 2022 vintages over two days reminded me why Chianti Classico is, justifiably, so popular around the world.  The setting for the tastings was the venerable — and quite enormous — train station in Florence where every year the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (the organization that represents producers) presents some 700-plus samples of Chianti Classico spanning several recent vintages and all quality levels. 
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Restaurant & Wine Review: An Evening at Eleven Madison Park with the Wines of Tenuta Sette Ponti, Featuring Oreno: A Dramatic Change for the Better

It seemed ill-conceived. Matching upscale vegetarian cuisine with muscular Italian red wines. But, as is sometimes the case, the unconventional teaches a lesson—and this one taught two. Michelin three-star Eleven Madison Park with their plant-based food was the setting. Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Oreno, their flagship Bordeaux blend, was the wine.… Read more

Maison Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) “Chênes” 2022

($35):  Saint-Véran, which lies adjacent to Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais, lies between single village Mâcon wines, like Mâcon-Azé, and Pouilly-Fuissé in the appellation hierarchy.  That is not to say you can’t find a Mâcon-Azé that is more stylish and enjoyable than a Saint-Véran, nor does it mean that every Pouilly-Fuissé is superior to every Saint-Véran. Read more

Domaine Merlin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) Le Grand Bussière 2022

($33):  Despite the location of the vineyard, Le Grand Bussière, in the village of Fuissé, the appellation is Saint-Véran because Fuissé (the village) spans two appellations, Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran.  (Who ever said that Burgundy was simple to understand?)  This edgy Saint-Véran, with its cutting stone-y quality, shows why that appellation ranks above Mâcon in prestige. Read more

Domaine Merlin, Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chevrières 2022

($72):  The French wine authorities have finally identified and codified Premier Cru vineyards for Pouilly-Fuissé so that moniker along with the vineyard name is now appearing on the label, just as in the rest of Burgundy.  Unsurprisingly, the elevation of some vineyards to Premier Cru classification has brought with it an elevation of price. Read more