($20, Cru Artisan): The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers. Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home. … Read more
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Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014
($102, Esprit du Vin): Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014
($104, Esprit du Vin): Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($64, Esprit du Vin): The Domaine Coffinet, established in 1860 in Chassagne-Montrachet, has been passed from one generation of the Coffinet family to the next. In 1989, Fernand and Cécile Coffinet split their 30-acre domaine between their two daughters, giving rise to Domaine Coffinet-Duverney, now run by Laura Coffinet and Philippe Duvernay.… Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Patzimaro Vineyard 2012
($95): Duckhorn Vineyards, which was the first to show us the potential of Merlot from Napa with their Three Palms bottling of it, now shows us the diversity of sites in Napa Valley with a series of single vineyard bottlings. Patzimaro Vineyard, located at the base of Spring Mountain in the St.… Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center. But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight. Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine. Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2015
($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lovely wine, dreadful label. I rarely comment about a wine’s label. After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that counts. And in that category, this wine is easy to recommend. The problem is that the script on the label makes it almost impossible to figure out the name of the producer, so buying it is likely to be difficult. … Read more
Sartori di Verona, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007
($50, Cru Artisan): Sartori, a top producer based in the Veneto, bottles several Amarone. This one, Corte Brá, comes from a single vineyard and is, in my experience, always outstanding. The 2007 is particularly noteworthy because it is still widely available in the retail market and now, at a decade of age, is luscious and captivating. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2013
($20): Arnaldo-Caprai, certainly one of the top producers in Montefalco, has done an excellent job with this Montefalco Rosso, the baby brother of Sagrantino di Montefalco, which as DOCG status. Similar to other Rosso, such as Rosso di Montalcino, the Montefalco Rosso category gives the consumer an idea of what the Sagrantino di Montefalco, a wine that demands extended bottle aging to tame the tannins, might taste like since it is far more approachable at a young age. … Read more
Coppo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) “Camp du Rouss” 2012
($21, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Barbera is a grape made for the cool and yes, wintery, weather ahead of us. And this one from Coppo is easy to recommend. It’s a pleasantly gutsy wine with briary fruit, good grip and uplifting acidity. … Read more
Pighin, Grave (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Buying Pinot Grigio, one of America’s most popular white wines, is like walking through a mind field. With so many vapid examples on retailers’ shelves, it’s hard for a consumer to know how to choose. Well, you can start with this one by Pighin. … Read more
Pighin, Collio (Friuli, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2015
($25, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Pighin’s Pinot Grigio, made from grapes grown in the Collio region of Friuli, is even more impressive that there Grave bottling. It has more of everything — concentration and finesse — without becoming overblown or blowsy. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chouacheux Domaine Gagey 2013
($57, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2013 vintage in Burgundy was difficult because rain during the harvest had the potential to swell the grapes, diluting them and the wine. Plus, dampness during harvest is a set up for rot. But talented producer, such as Louis Jadot, makes excellent wines even in “difficult” years. … Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2015
($13): Malbec has achieved popularity in this country because it can produce a big juicy red wine with mild or little tannic structure. The 2015 Malbec from Alamos fits that profile perfectly. Soft and fruity, it’s ideal for people searching for an inexpensive big red to have either before dinner or with hearty fare.… Read more
Wine Fraud: More Common Than You’d Think
The mother of all wine frauds belongs to Rudi Kurniawan, who was convicted in federal court in 2013 and sentenced to 10 years in prison for essentially selling millions of dollars of counterfeit wine. In a separate, but related matter, Kurniawan agreed to pay billionaire wine collector Bill Koch $3 million in damages to settle a lawsuit in which Koch claimed Kurniawan sold him fake wine. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($40): This lovely young Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a balanced, palate-pleasing combination of dark fruit, herbs and other savory notes. Its suave tannins make this wine quite approachable and enjoyable now. A pleasant contrast to big, overblown Cabernets, Cadaretta’s emphasizes elegance over power.… Read more
La Crema, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): La Crema’s Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir emphasizes the red cherry fruit nature of the variety. To their credit, the fruit flavors are fresh, not jammy, and not overdone. A whiff of savory notes appears in the background. Appealing tart cherry notes are apparent in the finish in keeping with the wine’s fruity profile. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Prelius” 2014
($14, Wilson Daniels): If you thought Castello di Volpaia was a great producer of Chianti Classico, you would be correct. But they also produce this bargain-priced Vermentino that shouldn’t be missed. Beautifully fresh, saline tinged, with uplifting acidity, it’s hard to find a better match for steamed clams or other simply prepared seafood. … Read more
Stemmari, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Grillo 2014
($11, Prestige Wine Imports): Stemmari works wonders with indigenous Sicilian varieties, such as Grillo. This one delivers an emblematic, ever so slightly bitter, saline component that makes it a delightful match for hearty seafood, perhaps in a tomato-based sauce, but less useful as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil. A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests. … Read more
Nativ, Fiano di Avellino DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014
($28, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Fiano is a bit more floral than their Greco di Tufo. Instead of transmitting a sense of volcanic ash, it conveys a delicate white flowery sensation. It’s also a touch weightier and more tropical than their Greco. … Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Les Cadrans de Lassègue” 2012
($29, Jackson Family Wines): This, the second wine of Château Lassègue, a property in the Jackson Family portfolio, is a marvelous buy. More polished than many second wines, it conveys a savory, almost funky — in a nice way — complement to its bright fruity flavors. … Read more
Bodegas Septima, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Obra” 2014
($25, Aveníu Brands): Obra, the reserve wine of Bodegas Septima, is a cut above the usual Malbec both in taste and in price. Good acidity and vibrancy balances its thick and juicy profile without being aggressive or harsh. This big red wine would be a good choice for robust grilled meats this fall.… Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($22): I have been impressed by the Chardonnay coming from Presqu’ile and now see that they do equally well with Sauvignon Blanc. This one, from their vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, is, in a word, balanced. Pleasantly herbal, as opposed to grassy, there’s an ever so slight roundness to its texture, as though the coarse edges of Sauvignon Blanc have been sanded. … Read more
Route Stock, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($17): Route Stock has managed to achieve harmonious balance in this Sauvignon Blanc. Without losing its distinctive cutting edginess, a subtle creaminess offsets the potential shrillness characteristic of the varietal. Nicely aggressive, delivering just the right about of pungency, it has a finish and delivers a complexity often lacking in Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($30): Duckhorn Vineyards continues to impress despite their long and stellar track record. Perhaps best known for their powerful, yet elegant, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, they also make noteworthy Chardonnay and, judging from this example, Sauvignon Blanc. They also know what they can — and cannot — do in Napa. … Read more
J. Lohr, St. Helena (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Carol’s Vineyard 2013
($60): One of the joys of tasting Cabernet Sauvignon from J. Lohr is that they show the diversity of California terroir. Tasted side-by-side, this one from a single vineyard in St. Helena in Napa Valley and their “Hilltop” Cabernet Sauvignon ($35, 89 points) from their vineyards in Paso Robles make a fascinating comparison. … Read more
Martin Ray, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Synthesis” 2013
($50): The big, heavy, oversized bottle makes me not want to like this wine. But the first whiff — a combination of red fruits and earthiness — wins you over easily. It delivers cherry-like fruit and minerals woven into a fine texture. … Read more
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima, Vinho Regional Tejo (Portugal) Arinto/Chardonnay Reserva 2015
($15): Tejo, formerly known as Ribatejo, is a region just across the Tagus River from Lisbon, which is now starting to focus on higher quality wines rather than their traditional bulk production. This blend of Arinto, a grape indigenous to the Iberian Peninsula, and Chardonnay works well.… Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): Vento di Mare continues their streak of bargain-priced wines with this Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s iconic red grape. Similar to its Grillo and Pinot Grigio made from organic grapes, this Nero d’Avola delivers surprising complexity, both fruity and savory notes, for such a modest price. … Read more
Kir-Yianni, Amyndeon (Greece) “Akakies” Sparkling Dry Rosé 2014
($21, Diamond Wine Importers): The rising prices of Champagne coupled with the increasing popularity of all kinds of bubbly wine has necessitated thinking outside of the box. Outside the box for many might be Crémant de Bourgogne or even a sparkling Vouvray. … Read more
Paumanok, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chenin Blanc 2014
($28): Chenin Blanc is a tough grape to transform into a balanced wine in North America because a little extra ripeness from the warmth of the growing season translates into an overly fruity and flabby wine. But when a winery hits it just right, as the team at Paumanok does on a regular basis, Chenin Blanc is an ideal summertime choice. … Read more
Paumanok, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Dry Rosé 2015
($18): As regular WineReviewOnline readers know well, I am not swept away by the tsunami of enthusiasm for rosé, often preferring to chill a light red wine, which makes my reaction to this one all the more startling. Made from Cabernet Franc, this rosé is dry and crisp with lots of character. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($22, Vias Imports): A blend of mostly (95%) Sangiovese and Malvasia Nero, this Chianti Classico delivers a harmonious contrast of herbal earthy flavors intermingled with pure fruity ones. Hallmark Tuscan acidity and firm tannins provide structure without being aggressive or intrusion. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Grillo 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): As with their Pinot Grigio, Vento di Mare produces two wines, one from organic and one from conventional grapes, from Grillo, an indigenous Sicilian grape. This Grillo, from organic grapes, is slightly richer with a better texture and complexity compared to the one made from conventionally grown grapes. … Read more
Vento di Mare, Terre Siciliane IGT (Sicily, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2014
($12, Middleton Family Wines): Vento di Mare produces two Pinot Grigios in Sicily — this one made from organically grown grapes, and one made from conventionally grown grapes. They’re very different wines. This one, from organically grown grapes, is slightly less floral, less fruity, leaner and more angular. … Read more
Stemmari, Sicilia DOC (Italy) Nero d’Avola 2014
($10, Prestige Wine Imports): Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s “red grape,” has the ability to deliver both fruity and savory notes simultaneously even when young, as it does in this wine. Stemmari’s delivers savory nuances of herbs and olives, which make a lovely counterpoint to the bright red fruit elements. … Read more
Fontana Candida, Frascati Superiore DOCG Riserva (Lazio, Italy) “Luna Mater” 2012
($23, Banfi Vintners): Fontana Candida’s Luna Mater will transform your image of Frascati, typically a light refreshing, but otherwise undistinguished, white wine. Well, Luna Mater is certainly distinguished. It’s not just more concentrated than the usual Frascati — though it is. … Read more
Cerulli Spinozzi, Pecorino Colli Aprutini IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) “Cortalto” 2014
($15): Cortalto’s a wine to buy by the case. The pleasing bite of Pecorino, the grape, could remind consumers of the cheese. Cerulli Spinozzi, one of the top producers in Abruzzo, manages to combine the attractive bite with good concentration and uplifting acidity in this fresh and lively wine. … Read more
Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2014
($21, Michael Corso Selection): I love Vouvray. My frustration with the wines is that it’s often difficult to tell the level of sweetness before pulling the cork. Thankfully, this one, labeled Sec, accurately describes the wine. It captures the tension — the steely dryness combined with a delicate fruitiness — that makes Vouvray so invigorating. … Read more
Jo Landron, Muscadet Serve-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) “La Louvetrie” 2014
($13, Martin Scott): Muscadet remains one of the great bargains for white wines because it still has a down-market image despite the work and talents of producers, such as Jo Landron who, along with this wife, owns the Domaine de la Louvetrie. … Read more
Robert Mondavi: The Father of California Wine
No one is more responsible for the success of the California wine industry than Robert Mondavi. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the winery that bears his name and is an appropriate time to look back on his extraordinary accomplishments.… Read more
Migration, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2014
($32): Migration, initially the second label of Decoy, Duckhorn’s Pinot Noir-focused outpost in Anderson Valley, now has its own home in Sonoma County. It’s a first wine in its own right. And though the focus was — and is — on Pinot Noir, it turns out, at least judging from this wine, they do a fine job with Chardonnay. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Dry Fumé Blanc 2014
($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong. Of course it excels with Chardonnay. Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. … Read more
Bonny Doon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Beeswax Vineyard “Le Cigare Blanc” Reserve 2013
($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc. It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2013
($69): This wine shows the beauty of Napa Valley Cabernet. Not bigger, but just a more muscular style of Cabernet Sauvignon than is the norm, the 2013 Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon has extraordinary finesse. It’s truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. … Read more
Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($55): Jordan consistently makes a beautifully graceful Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2012 is even more so, full-flavored, yet elegant with a suave texture. Although a mouth-filling wine, it is not heavy. It impresses with its elegance and complexity, not brute force. Layers of red and black fruit flavors intermingle with herbal earthy notes. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Mormoreto” 2011
($62): So-called international blends in Tuscany can be fabulous or a heavy-handed disaster. Put Frescobaldi’s Mormoreto into the former category. The winemaking team there clearly knows what it’s doing. The 2011 Mormoreto, a typical Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (30%), Merlot (20%), and Petit Verdot, brings together a marvelous mixture of fruity elements, savory nuances and a firm minerality. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) “Pieluni” Riserva 2010
($70, Montcalm Wine Imports): This wine dispels any notion that truly great wines are not made in Abruzzo from the Montepulciano grape. Yes, the nomenclature is confusing: Montepulciano, the grape, has nothing to do with Montepulciano the village in Tuscany known for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which uses the Sangiovese grape. … Read more
Domaine du Poujol, Pays D’Hérault IGP (Languedoc, France) Carignan Blanc Vieilles Vignes 2014
($16, Ideal Wines & Spirits): Phil Minervino, one of the owners of a Newton Lower Falls Wines, a jewel of a wine shop outside of Boston, and a superb taster, recommended this somewhat obscure wine to me. As he said, “No one comes in asking for Carignan Blanc.” … Read more