All posts by admin

Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Torre Migliori” 2011

($20, Cru Artisan):  The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers.  Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home. Read more

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014

($102, Esprit du Vin):  Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. Read more

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014

($104, Esprit du Vin):  Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Howell Mountain (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($95): The expected power befitting a “mountain wine” is front and center.  But the surprise is its incredible elegance for its size and weight.  Alluring mineral-y earthy flavors balance the dark black fruit notes in this very polished wine.  Succulent and long, it’s paradoxically powerful, yet subtle — quite an amazing combination. Read more

Sartori di Verona, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007

($50, Cru Artisan): Sartori, a top producer based in the Veneto, bottles several Amarone.  This one, Corte Brá, comes from a single vineyard and is, in my experience, always outstanding.  The 2007 is particularly noteworthy because it is still widely available in the retail market and now, at a decade of age, is luscious and captivating. Read more

Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2013

($20): Arnaldo-Caprai, certainly one of the top producers in Montefalco, has done an excellent job with this Montefalco Rosso, the baby brother of Sagrantino di Montefalco, which as DOCG status.  Similar to other Rosso, such as Rosso di Montalcino, the Montefalco Rosso category gives the consumer an idea of what the Sagrantino di Montefalco, a wine that demands extended bottle aging to tame the tannins, might taste like since it is far more approachable at a young age. Read more

Wine Fraud: More Common Than You’d Think

The mother of all wine frauds belongs to Rudi Kurniawan, who was convicted in federal court in 2013 and sentenced to 10 years in prison for essentially selling millions of dollars of counterfeit wine.  In a separate, but related matter, Kurniawan agreed to pay billionaire wine collector Bill Koch $3 million in damages to settle a lawsuit in which Koch claimed Kurniawan sold him fake wine. Read more

Castello di Volpaia, Maremma DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Prelius” 2014

($14, Wilson Daniels): If you thought Castello di Volpaia was a great producer of Chianti Classico, you would be correct.  But they also produce this bargain-priced Vermentino that shouldn’t be missed.  Beautifully fresh, saline tinged, with uplifting acidity, it’s hard to find a better match for steamed clams or other simply prepared seafood. Read more

Nativ, Greco di Tufo DOCG (Campania, Italy) 2014

($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Nativ’s Greco di Tufo, one of Campania’s signature white wines, conveys a stony, almost volcanic essence, which is not surprising since this grape grows well on Vesuvius’s soil.  A tinge of bitterness in the finish buttressed by bracing acidity catapults this wine into the “easy-to-recommend” category because it’s a serious wine that delivers more than the price suggests. Read more

Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($22): I have been impressed by the Chardonnay coming from Presqu’ile and now see that they do equally well with Sauvignon Blanc.  This one, from their vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, is, in a word, balanced. Pleasantly herbal, as opposed to grassy, there’s an ever so slight roundness to its texture, as though the coarse edges of Sauvignon Blanc have been sanded. Read more

Vigneau-Chevreau, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Silex” 2014

($21, Michael Corso Selection): I love Vouvray.  My frustration with the wines is that it’s often difficult to tell the level of sweetness before pulling the cork.  Thankfully, this one, labeled Sec, accurately describes the wine.  It captures the tension — the steely dryness combined with a delicate fruitiness — that makes Vouvray so invigorating. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Dry Fumé Blanc 2014

($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong.  Of course it excels with Chardonnay.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. Read more

Bonny Doon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Beeswax Vineyard “Le Cigare Blanc” Reserve 2013

($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc.  It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. Read more

Jordan, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

($55): Jordan consistently makes a beautifully graceful Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2012 is even more so, full-flavored, yet elegant with a suave texture.  Although a mouth-filling wine, it is not heavy.  It impresses with its elegance and complexity, not brute force.  Layers of red and black fruit flavors intermingle with herbal earthy notes. Read more

Frescobaldi, Toscana IGT (Italy) “Mormoreto” 2011

($62): So-called international blends in Tuscany can be fabulous or a heavy-handed disaster.  Put Frescobaldi’s Mormoreto into the former category.  The winemaking team there clearly knows what it’s doing.  The 2011 Mormoreto, a typical Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Cabernet Franc (30%), Merlot (20%), and Petit Verdot, brings together a marvelous mixture of fruity elements, savory nuances and a firm minerality. Read more