($35): What a great village Chablis! It demonstrates the importance of the producer and old vines. With this wine, Jean-Marc Brocard, one of the region’s top growers, delivers more character and clarity than many producers’ premier cru. Flinty and precise, it cuts a gorgeous profile.… Read more
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Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Couvent des Jacobins” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Jadot is justly proud of their “simple” Bourgogne Blanc. The grapes — all Chardonnay — come from throughout Burgundy, allowing them to alter the blend as the vintage demands. With a slightly warmer vintage, they can include grapes from cooler continue to keep the wine fresh. … Read more
Dr. Apstein’s Case for Quarantine
I’ll leave the medical advice concerning the need to quarantine to your personal physician and public health experts. My advice is for a case of wine you’ll need for those two weeks. Of course, depending on how many other adults are with you in quarantine, you may need more than a case.… Read more
What is the new Bourgogne Côte d’Or ‘appellation’?
Brunello 2015: Less is More
The 2015 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is being heralded as a 5-star vintage (the top rating) by the notoriously easy-grading Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the trade group that represents producers in Montalcino. Retailers around the country have jumped onto the bandwagon with enthusiastic praise for the 2015 vintage. … Read more
Castiglion del Bosco, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Gauggiole” 2016
($37, Maisons Marques & Domaines): Castiglion del Bosco, a top producer in Montalcino, consistently produces excellent Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. They have recently added this specially selected Rosso, labeled Gauggiole after the area in which the vineyards are planted. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($54, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Silvio Nardi is one of my favorite Brunello producers, in part because they are consistent and in part because they make single vineyard bottlings from different sections of Montalcino that highlight the exciting diversity of that appellation. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Manachiara 2015
($110, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Silvio Nardi refers to the wine from their Manachiara vineyard as a wine of the East, because the vineyard is located in the eastern part of Montalcino and the vines face southeast. The 2015 shows the ripeness of the vintage without being over the top.… Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($46): The warm and dry 2015 growing season in Brunello was the opposite of the cool and rainy weather of 2014. That weather explains the potential pitfalls for the wines — ripe and alcoholic with low acidity. Talenti avoided those problems with their 2015 Brunello. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Doria 2015
($110, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Nardi’s Poggio Doria vineyard lies in the cooler northwest sector of Montalcino and consistently produces elegant, tightly wound wines. More closed and less powerful than the Manachiara, the Poggio Doria reflects its cooler environment. Volcanic soil here amplifies the wine’s dark mineral component. … Read more
Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) 2014
($40): In 2010, Italian wine regulators created a new DOCG by adding a Riserva designation to the Verdicchio dei Castelli Jesi DOC for wines that have been aged slightly longer and have been made from riper grapes. To emphasize the importance of place instead of the grape, the official name became Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG. … Read more
Castello di Semivicoli, Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Pecorino 2018
($20): Pecorino, in addition to being a cheese, is also a grape, which, in the right hands, makes a captivating wine. Moreover, I predict Pecorino will become the go-to white wine for Italian fare because its lively edginess cuts through most any dish and refreshes the palate. … Read more
Villa Sandi, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2018
($22, Folio Fine Wine Partners): There’s Prosecco and then there’s Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene, which comes from sloped sites at the heart of the Prosecco production area. The 2018 from Villa Sandi, one the region’s leading producers, is graceful and lacey. Though labeled Brut, there is a pleasing softness to it without being sweet. … Read more
Apollonio, Salento IGP (Puglia, Italy) Negroamaro “Elfo” 2014
($16, Montcalm Wine Importers): Negroamaro, which literally means black and bitter, is a marketing nightmare. But don’t let that deter your buying this bargain red that delivers more than its price suggests. With both black cherry-like fruitiness and delicate herbal notes, it’s more savory than fruity. … Read more
Bricco dei Guazzi, Piemonte DOC (Italy) Chardonnay 2017
($13, Montcalm Wine Importers): When you think of white wines from Piedmont, Chardonnay does not spring to mind. But it is grown there and made into wine and actually has its own DOC. Bricco dei Guazzi’s 2017 delivers lush creamy fruitiness without being heavy. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) “Spiano” 2015
($12, Montcalm Wine Importers): Though I reviewed this wine a couple of years ago, it’s worth revisiting because it is still available at virtually the same price. Still a bargain, it shows that non-prestigious wines are not necessarily a flash in the pan.… Read more
J. de Villebois, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) 2018
($26, Vineyard Brands): Joost de Willebois, a Dutch financier, knows a business opportunity when he sees it. In 2004, he found a small Loire winery owned by someone who had no successor and he bought it with the idea of transforming it into something larger. … Read more
J. de Villebois, Pouilly Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2018
($26, Vineyard Brands): People often ask what is the difference between Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Regulations require that both wines are made exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc. Sancerre is on the west bank of the Loire while Pouilly sur Loire, the town that gives the wine its name, is about 10 miles away on the east bank of the river. … Read more
Vignobles Gunther-Chéreau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Les Vergers” Sur Lie 2016
($20): This wine shows that Muscadet, especially those from the subregion Sèvre et Maine, can develop with bottle age. Most often, consumers think Muscadet should be consumed young with shellfish or other seafood. And that’s correct. Muscadet is a delightful — and affordable — wine for seafood. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Tempranillo 2016
($30): Tempranillo in Oregon? Who knew? Not I. But now I do and I will look for more after tasting this one from Naumes Family Vineyards. Tempranillo, Spain’s signature variety grown in Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro, is an early ripening one that does well in southern Oregon, according to producers there. … Read more
Volcanic Hills, Okanagan Valley (British Columbia, Canada) Pinot Gris 2018
($15): The vineyards of this property lie on a slope of an old volcano, hence the name of the winery. The same grape, Pinot Gris, is used to produce wines labeled Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, which are very different. Pinot Grigio is usually far lighter, whereas Pinot Gris has a weight and texture. … Read more
Nichol Vineyard, Naramata Bench (Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada) Pinot Gris 2018
($21): Sometimes it’s good to order blindly from a wine list without seeing the bottle or knowing anything about the wine. The label indicated this “white” wine had undergone 36-hours of skin contact and oak aging, techniques that I usually find off-putting in Pinot Gris. … Read more
50th Parallel Estate, Okanagan Valley (British Columbia, Canada) Pinot Noir 2016
($30): The 50th Parallel Estate consistently makes outstanding Pinot Noir. Their 2016 is the real thing: a balance of ripe, but not too ripe, fruit flavors intertwined with savory ones. Fine tannins provide support and allow for immediate consumption. Both delicate and expressive, it delivers the what I consider the quintessential quality of Pinot Noir, flavor without weight. … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017
($50): The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Rued Vineyard 2017
($55): Warren Dutton, the renowned Sonoma County grape-growing farmer who tragically died in 2001, planted this Chardonnay in this vineyard in the late 1960s. Steve Dutton, his son, is now responsible for the farming, while Dan Goldfield takes care of the winemaking. … Read more
I Clivi, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Venezia Giulia, Italy ) Bianco 2016
($35): Ferdinando e Mario Zanusso of I Clivi (which means the slopes) make superb wines. Their Clivi Galea is a single vineyard with 70-yesr old vines (according to their website) located on the southern tip of the appellation, near the Slovenian border.… Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Poggiale 2016
($35, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of Chianti’s traditional and best producers, hits the bullseye again with this Riserva. The grapes come from a single vineyard that they think produces superior fruit. After tasting it, I certainly agree there’s something special going on. … Read more
Domaine Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi IGT (Macedonia, Greece) White Wine 2019
($20): Gerovassiliou, who is credited with saving the Malagouzia grape from extinction, blends it with Assyrtiko to create this charming wine. It is more floral than his monovarietal Malagouzia, which is surprising since one might assume that the Assyrtiko would add more structure and minerality. … Read more
Domaine Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi IGT (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Single Vineyard 2019
($27): Vangelis Gerovassiliou, the man credited with rescuing this grape from extinction, makes a superb example of it at his estate near Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and the country’s most important port. The captivating combination of subtle tropical fruits and bracing acidity is, of course, present. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2017
($32): Sequoia Grove is an “old-timer” in terms of Napa Valley wineries, having been founded 40 years ago, in 1979. Their 2017 Napa Valley Chardonnay delivers richness, opulence and a healthy dose of oakiness. Good acidity keeps it fresh. Those looking for subtlety in their Chardonnay should look elsewhere, but those who embrace sumptuousness in their Chardonnay will love it.… Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Barbera 2017
($15): Barbera is a workhorse grape from Piedmont that has been grown in California for at least a century. Unlike Piedmont versions, which often have a briary character with invigorating acidity, this one delivers juicy red fruit flavors and finishes slightly sweet. … Read more
Steele Stymie, Lake County (California) Merlot Founder’s Reserve, Limited Production 2016
($42): Jed Steele, who has made wine in California for almost 50 years, is no stranger to the endeavor. He has purchased fruit from Stymie Vineyard for 15 years before buying it in 2005. A big wine, it is not overblown (though the bottle is). … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (North Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2016
($21, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Though not the current release, this wine is still on the retail market broadly across the country and shows how nicely New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can develop. A welcome mineral-like complexity has appeared a top an ever so slightly decreased hallmark vibrancy of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
I Clivi, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Venezia Giulia, Italy ) Bianco 2016
($35): Ferdinando e Mario Zanusso of I Clivi (which means the slopes) make superb wines. Their Clivi Galea is a single vineyard with 70-yesr old vines (according to their website) located on the southern tip of the appellation, near the Slovenian border.… Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Poggiale 2016
($35, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of Chianti’s traditional and best producers, hits the bullseye again with this Riserva. The grapes come from a single vineyard that they think produces superior fruit. After tasting it, I certainly agree there’s something special going on. … Read more
Boutari, Santorini PDO (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018
($64, Terlato Wines International): Boutari, founded in Naoussa in Macedonia in 1879 and is one of the best-known producers of Greek wines, started making Assyrtiko on Santorini about 30 years ago. They wisely put the phonetic pronunciation of the grape name, which may be unfamiliar to Americans, on the back label. … Read more
Tselepos, Santorini PDO (Greece) Assyrtiko “Canava Chrissou” Vieilles Vignes 2016
($35): Prices of Assyrtiko from Santorini, rapidly becoming the signature white wine from Greece, have always been higher than other Greek white wines because of the labor-intensive farming involved. Farmers plant the basket-like vines in holes to protect them from the winds. … Read more
Alpha Estate, Florina IGT (Amyndeon, Greece) Malagouzia Turtles Vineyard 2019
($19): Malagouzia, sometimes spelled Malagousia, an aromatic indigenous northern Greek grape, was nearly extinct until the 1970s when an enology professor encouraged Vangelis Gerovassiliou (one of his students and now one of the best producers of it), to explore its possibilities. … Read more
Domaine Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi IGT (Macedonia, Greece) White Wine 2019
($20): Gerovassiliou, who is credited with saving the Malagouzia grape from extinction, blends it with Assyrtiko to create this charming wine. It is more floral than his monovarietal Malagouzia, which is surprising since one might assume that the Assyrtiko would add more structure and minerality. … Read more
Domaine Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi IGT (Macedonia, Greece) Malagouzia Single Vineyard 2019
($27): Vangelis Gerovassiliou, the man credited with rescuing this grape from extinction, makes a superb example of it at his estate near Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and the country’s most important port. The captivating combination of subtle tropical fruits and bracing acidity is, of course, present. … Read more
Tsantalis Vineyards and Wineries, Mount Athos PGI (Macedonia, Greece) Xinomavro-Grenache-Limnio “Agioritiko Abaton” 2015
($25): A little label interpretation is order for this terrific red wine. Mount Athos, which means Holy Mountain, sits on one of finger-like peninsulas just east of Thessaloniki and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tsantalis is considered to be a superb producer in this region. … Read more
Burgundy’s 2018 Vintage: The Importance of Harvest Date
During the annual press conference in November, 2018 at which various Burgundy luminaries discussed the recent vintage, Françoise Labet, President of the organization that represents Burgundy wine, proclaimed that the recently completed vintage was, “Close to 1947,” which was a legendary year. … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Rued Vineyard 2017
($55): Warren Dutton, the renowned Sonoma County grape-growing farmer who tragically died in 2001, planted this Chardonnay in this vineyard in the late 1960s. Steve Dutton, his son, is now responsible for the farming, while Dan Goldfield takes care of the winemaking. … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017
($50): The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. … Read more
Piper Sonoma, Sonoma County (California) Blanc de Blancs NV
($22): Piper Sonoma, a subsidiary of Piper Heidsieck, the French Champagne company, has been producing sparkling wines in California since 1980. Their wines have taken a quantum leap in quality recently. Take this Blanc de Blancs for example. Made primarily from Chardonnay (75%), with Pinot Blanc rounding out the blend, it is focused, with touches of green apple-like flavors.… Read more
Scharffenberger Cellars, Mendocino County (California) “Brut Excellence” NV
($20): Scharffenberger Cellars was, and now is again, judging from this wine, a leader in California sparkling wine. Founded in 1981, at a time when the subsidiaries of French Champagne companies were establishing outposts in California, Scharffenberger showed that domestically-owned producers could make top-flight sparkling wines. … Read more
Mandrarossa, Sicilia IGT (Sicily, Italy) Frappato “Costadune” 2018
($18, Palm Bay International): Frappato, an indigenous Sicilian grape, is best known as a component of Cerasuolo di Sicilia, Sicily’s only wine awarded DOCG status. By itself, it’s a mid-weight wine that has a beguiling spiciness. The lack of wood aging allows the cherry-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more
Gai’a Wines, Santorini DOP (Greece) Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2018
($38): Gai’a, a leading producer of Greek wines, makes several wines from the Assyrtiko grape grown on Santorini. They are probably best known for their Assyrtiko labeled Thalassitis, which is blended from several vineyards on the island. This one, however, labeled Wild Ferment, comes exclusively from a single vineyard, Pyrgos, according to their website.… Read more
Artemis Karamolegos Winery, Santorini DOP (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018
($28): Assyrtiko is Greece’s flagship white grape. Though its best expression is when it’s grown on the island of Santorini, it has become so popular that growers are planting it throughout Greece. This stellar example delivers the quintessential saline minerality for which the Santorini version is known. … Read more
Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2018
($22): Although the best expression of Assyrtiko is from Santorini, not all Santorini Assyrtiko express the saline minerality similarly. Though grape and site is important, producer remains the critical element when selecting a wine, here and elsewhere. This Assyrtiko, one of four, from Santo Wines, a 1,200-member cooperative established on the island in 1947, is perfectly fine, crisp and clean, with citrus-y rather than saline notes. … Read more