($29, Becky Wasserman Selection): There is an advantage to buying “grower” wines (as opposed to those made by a négociant) with a regional appellation, such as Bourgogne Rouge, which theoretically could come from anywhere within Burgundy.  The consumer knows the approximate locale because most growers’ vineyards are located near their winery.  Indeed, this Bourgogne Rouge comes from grapes grown in several parcels within the confines of Morey St. Denis, but, obviously, not in vineyards that carry that Morey St. Denis appellation.  (Wines labeled Morey St. Denis would be at least twice as expensive.)  Despite the down-market appellation, this wine actually conveys a bit of the dark cherry firmness characteristic of wines from Morey St. Denis.  Not an opulent New World Pinot Noir, it’s a great introduction to the marvels of Burgundy that’s easy to enjoy now.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2015