($60): Power and grace.  That sums it up.  Mike Grgich is the undisputed master of Chardonnay.  He proved that almost 40 years ago at the “Judgment of Paris” tasting when the Chardonnay he made for Chateau Montelena beat out top white Burgundies for first place.  And it’s worth repeating that the judges at this blind tasting were French.  He’s been making stylish Chardonnay — plus stunning reds as well — at Grgich Hills Estate ever since.  The Miljenko’s Selection bottling is made from a selection of grapes from within blocks in their vineyard located in the Carneros region of Napa Valley.  Carneros has long been revered for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir because both varieties thrive in cooler climates, precisely what Carneros delivers because of the maritime influences of the adjoining San Pablo Bay, an outcropping of the San Francisco Bay, which itself empties into the Pacific Ocean.  Grgich happily marries a subtle but distinct fruitiness with bracing citrus acidity.  A toasty nuance enhances without dominating.  And like all great wines, its flavors change and emerge as it sits in the glass.  So savor it with a relaxed dinner.
96 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015