($49, Frederick Wildman):  Baron de Ley, whose first vintage was 1990, has already shown its talent at combining the “traditional” and the “modern” in Rioja.  Instead of the common practice of purchasing grapes from neighbors to supplement their supply, they adopted the Bordeaux chateau model of using only their own fruit.  Most Rioja is aged exclusively in American oak barrels, but they have opted to age this one, their current release, for two and a half years in a combination of French and American oak.  It aged for an additional five years in bottle before release.  A bolder style of Rioja, it is not overdone and retains elegance.  Made entirely from Tempranillo, it combines ripe fruit flavors with an alluring earthiness. There’s a fabulous interplay of freshness and mature leathery or coffee-like elements.  It’s a great opportunity for the consumer to experience the grandeur of a well-developed mature wine without breaking the bank. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 10, 2010