($12): Fattoria Viticcio is best known for their lovely Chianti Classico and their Super Tuscan, Greppicaia, from Bolgheri. Add this satisfying Vermentino to the list. Fresh and lively, there’s a mouth-watering salinity to it that screams for this summer’s seafood. It has surprising — for Vermentino — density and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.… Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany
Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini. There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine. (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a.… Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($24): Wines from the Chianti Classico region, which, remember is a distinct and more prestigious subzone of the greater Chianti area, continue to thrill. This one from Viticcio, a blend of Sangiovese (90%) with equal amounts of Merlot and Syrah, is very appealing even now, though its balance suggests more complexity will evolve over the next five or so years. … Read more
Luce, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($110, Folio Wine Imports): Luce della Vite, usually referred to as “Luce,” initially was a joint venture of the Mondavi and Frescobaldi families but is now owned solely by Frescobaldi. A Super Tuscan blend of roughly equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot grown in the Montalcino area, it does not conform to Italian winemaking regulations and therefore carries the IGT designation. … Read more
Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($175, Folio Wine Imports): Axel Heinz, Ornellaia’s winemaker, described 2014 as a vintage that was “challenging for reds.” He continued, “One thing we can rely on in Bolgheri is summer — but not in 2014.” The weather in July and August was dreadful — cool and rainy — which meant that in many sites, even some of the very best ones, the grapes did not achieve full ripeness. … Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Terre di Prenzano 2015
($22, Montcalm Wine Imports): This is quintessential Chianti Classico — remember Chianti Classico is one of the prized subzones of the Chianti region — with bright fruitiness, a touch of herbal flavors and lip-smacking acidity that compels another sip. The richness of the 2015 vintage is apparent, but the team at Vignamggio avoids jamminess or overripe character. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) “Marsiliana” 2012
($30): I’m always skeptical of a Cabernet-based Super Tuscan wine, even from a top producer, such as Principe Corsini, because Cabernet can overwhelm Tuscan identity. No such problem with Marsiliana, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, despite being aged in new small French oak barrels. … Read more
Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Nera” 2015
($31, Montcalm Wine Imports): I raved about the 2014 vintage of this wine, Lunae Bosoni’s flagship white made entirely from Vermentino. The 2015 is similarly stunning. Possibly the richest Vermentino I’ve ever had, it still retains lightness and vivacity with an invigorating zippy finish. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Maremma DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Prelius” 2014
($14, Wilson Daniels): If you thought Castello di Volpaia was a great producer of Chianti Classico, you would be correct. But they also produce this bargain-priced Vermentino that shouldn’t be missed. Beautifully fresh, saline tinged, with uplifting acidity, it’s hard to find a better match for steamed clams or other simply prepared seafood. … Read more
Castello di Meleto, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($22, Vias Imports): A blend of mostly (95%) Sangiovese and Malvasia Nero, this Chianti Classico delivers a harmonious contrast of herbal earthy flavors intermingled with pure fruity ones. Hallmark Tuscan acidity and firm tannins provide structure without being aggressive or intrusion. … Read more
Fattoria di Grignano, Chianti Rufinà Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Gualtieri 2011
($20, Montcalm Wine Imports): Chianti Rufinà region sometimes is overshadowed by Chianti Classico region, which is a shame because wines from the former often deliver more savory notes. Fattoria di Grignano’s fine example marries dark cherry-like fruit, earthy qualities with uplifting freshness and energy. … Read more
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) Ornellaia 2013
($225, Folio Fine Wines): Ornellaia is truly an iconic Super Tuscan that shows that Bordeaux does not have a monopoly on making great wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The 2013 growing season in Bolgheri was cooler than usual, producing less opulent, but to my mind no less enjoyable, wines. … Read more
Castello ColleMassari, Montecucco Rosso Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($26): Montecucco is a small DOC in Tuscany bordering Brunello di Montalcino, its far more famous — and expensive — neighbor. Montecucco Rosso is analogous to Rosso di Montalcino in that in is Montecucco’s earlier drinking wine. The Riserva designation means it’s undergone additional aging and presumably is better wine. … Read more
Fattoria Ambra, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Santa Cristina in Pilli” 2013
($20): Santa Cristina in Pilli is one of two single-vineyard (“crus”) Carmignano. (Ambra also produces two Carmignano Riservas from two other single vineyards.) This is another prime example of how Carmignano is underpriced. It’s a seamless combination conveying fruitiness and savory notes. … Read more
Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($30): This stunning wine has the structure — firm without be hard or aggressive — you’d expect for an excellent young wine. With a “not just fruit” quality, it delivers a gorgeous combination of cherry-like fruit, herbal notes and earthy flavors. … Read more
Villa Artimino, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($20): If you need another example of how Carmignano over delivers, look no further than this one from Villa Artimino. Very fragrant, it has a touch more concentration without being overdone or sacrificing any elegance. It, too, has an engaging texture and a welcome firmness balanced by plenty of energy. … Read more
Piaggia, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Sasso” 2013
($26, Worldwide Cellars): Piaggia’s Il Sasso another wine that over delivers and demonstrates the value of Carmignano. A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc (20%) and Merlot, it is a sophisticated wine, delivering a bit of everything — black fruit, earthy and savory notes — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($14, Mionetti): This immediately accessible mid-weight wine combines fruit and earth with just the right amount of structure. It has extraordinary complexity for the price. Buy it by the case for this summer’s grilling season.
90 Michael Apstein May 3, 2016… Read more
Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($25): Cecchi, though one of Tuscany’s great producers, flies under the radar. A family firm run currently by brothers Andrea and Cesare Cecchi, they produce a range of wines from estates in Tuscany and Umbria. This one, a traditionally framed Chianti Classico made from a blend of Sangiovese and Colorino, exhibits the near magical combination of bright red cherry-like fruit and savory herbal qualities. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Mura” 2013
($32): Rosso di Montalcino can be an excellent introduction to the glories of Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s iconic wines. Similar to Brunello, Rosso must be made entirely from Sangiovese. This one, from Castello Banfi, a leading Brunello producer whose dedicated work in the 1980s helped catapult Brunello onto the world’s wine stage, is truly a “baby Brunello.” … Read more
Tenuta San Guido, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Guidalberto 2013
($45): Tenuta San Guido, the producer of Sassicaia, first introduced Guidalberto in 2000. Mistakenly thought by many to be a “second” wine of Sassicaia because all of the grapes come from Tenuta San Guido’s vineyards, it most certainly is not. The blend of grapes is entirely different. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2012
($28): Castello di Volpaia consistently makes wonderful Chianti Classico. This Riserva combines a good density of black cherry-like fruit and a lovely herbal earthy component. A beefy wine, they’ve imbued it with power without sacrificing finesse or a graceful signature. Despite its intensity, it’s still clearly identifiable as Chianti Classico because of the great Tuscan acidity and savory notes. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nadri, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($54): Tenute Silvio Nardi has vineyards in the northwest and southeast section of the Brunello di Montalcino zone. In addition to their two outstanding single-vineyard wines, Poggio Doria and Manachiara, that they produce from those respective zones, they blend grapes to this fine, easy-to-recommend Brunello. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Manachiara 2010
($97, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Tenute Silvio Nardi, now run by his daughter, Emilia Nardi, remains of the Brunello’s top producers. They have vineyards in both the northwest and southeast portions of the Montalcino zone, which produces grapes of different styles because of the difference in soil and climate in each of the areas. … Read more
Monte Bernardi, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Sa’Etta 2011
($41, T. Edward Wines): Some Tuscan producers refer to their wines made exclusively from Sangiovese grown in the Chianti Classico region as a Super Tuscan wine. Others, such as Monte Bernardi, prefer to label theirs as Chianti Classico Riserva. This wine shows that Chianti Classico can have all of the appeal and pizzazz of the so-called Super Tuscans. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti Rufinà Reserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2011
($19): The Rufinà subzone of Chianti, the vast area between Florence and Siena, is not as well known as the Chianti Classico subzone. Indeed, the name is often confused with Ruffino, a well-known Tuscan producer. The Rufinà zone is home to an array of top producers, including Frescobaldi, a name that is iconic in Italian wine. … Read more
Monteverro, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Verruzzo di Monteverro” 2013
($29, Opici Wines): Monteverro, whose aim is to join the top end Maremma producers, has crafted this seamless blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese as their “entry level” wine. It has the richness expected from the Bordeaux varieties grown in that region, but unexpected brightness and liveliness from Sangiovese, a grape that does not ordinarily thrive in the Maremma. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($22, Palm Bay International): I’m a sucker for well-made Rosso di Montalcino because they deliver a glimmer of the grandeur of Brunello at an affordable price without having to cellar them. Not a boisterous wine, Col d’Orcia’s 2012 Rosso di Montalcino has a great perfume, followed by seductive elegance supported by fine tannins. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio al Vento 2006
($120, Palm Bay International): It should come as no surprise that this is an outstanding wine. The producer is one of Montalcino’s best, the vineyard’s location is ideal with perfect elevation and exposure, and the vintage is outstanding. At almost a decade of age, the wine is just starting to show its grandeur. … Read more
Teruzzi & Puthod, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($12, Palm Bay International): Despite being Italy’s 1st DOC (Denominazione Origine Controllata) Vernaccia di San Gimignano remains under the radar, which is great for consumers because, as this wine shows, they can offer great value. Fresh, crisp and cutting, this bright wine is easy to recommend. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Sergio Zingarelli” 2010
($130, Palm Bay International): Gran Selezione, a category that debuted only in 2014, is intended to be for Chianti Classico of exceptional character. For a wine to receive that designation it must come from estate grapes (no purchased fruit), be aged even longer than a Chianti Classico Riserva and pass a tasting panel. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($16, Palm Bay International): Wines from the Chianti Classico region remain extremely popular. Indeed, we Americans drink more of them than the Italians. And this one from Rocca delle Macìe, a top producer, shows why. The 2013 is fresh with a food-enhancing bite and the non fruit — earthy — flavors that make Chianti Classico so appealing. … Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($40, Palm Bay International): Castello di Verrazzano’s Chianti Classico Riserva comes from grapes grown in their vineyards that are at a higher elevation on the slope than other parcels. The erosion and drainage at that part of the slope always results in concentrated grapes that produce powerful wines. … Read more
Tenuta Le Potazzine Gorelli, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($64): Potazzine Gorelli’s 2010 Brunello ranks with the best from that vintage. It has a beguiling combination of dark cherry-like flavors, firm — not hard — tannins and a paradoxical delicacy. Everything is in harmony. Flavors unfold as it sits in the glass and dance across the palate. … Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($47): It’s worth repeating: The 2010s from Brunello di Montalcino are staggeringly good. By and large, they are beautifully balanced with tannins that lend support without being astringent. Talenti’s was one of my favorites from the line up of 2010 Brunello I tasted in Montalcino this past February. … Read more
Vasco Sassetti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Vasco Sassetti made a powerful brooding Brunello in 2010 that conveys a healthy dose of dark minerality and earthiness that balances its ripeness. Despite its power, this is a fresh and lively wine. An attractive black cherry skin subtle bitterness reinforces the seriousness of this Brunello. … Read more
Col D’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($43): Col D’Orcia, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, made a stunning Rosso di Montalcino in 2010. It’s not surprising since 2010 was truly a great vintage for the region and Col D’Orcia has always embraced the second wine of the region. … Read more
Sesti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($55): The vast range of Brunello I tasted at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual event in Montalcino at which the Brunello producers show their soon-to-be-released new vintage, convinced me that 2010 is one the truly great vintages for that DOCG. In my view, Brunello lovers cannot have too many 2010s in their cellars. … Read more
La Lastra, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($15): La Lastra is one of leading producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, an often-overlooked DOCG. With its cutting edge and slightly nutty finish, La Lastra’s 2013 could be the poster child for the appellation. This bright and energetic wine is perfect for linguine and clam sauce or simple broiled fish.… Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($32, Maison Marques & Domaines): Querciabella, one of the stellar producers in the Chianti Classico region, does not rest on their laurels. They are in the process of making Chianti Classico from several of the subregions of that DOCG, which will give consumers an opportunity, at long last, to discern the differences among the areas in the Chianti Classico region since the winemaking will be constant. … Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23): A traditional producer, Verrazzano uses only Sangiovese and Canaiolo for their Chianti Classico, reserving Cabernet and Merlot, the so-called international varieties, for their Super Tuscan bottling. Their powerful style is readily apparent with this 2012 Chianti Classico. Despite its concentration, the wine is balanced with an interplay of dark cherry-like fruit and savory elements all enlivened by refreshing acidity. … Read more
Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Pian delle Vigne” 2010
($62): It should come as no surprise that Antinori, who, as much as anyone, is responsible for the quality of Tuscan wines, should produce an outstanding Brunello. They certainly have with their 2010 Pian delle Vigne. Lofty aromatics predict an exciting wine. … Read more
Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($160): Poggio di Sotto, one of the region’s traditional producers, made one of the top wines of the vintage in 2010. Though not a powerhouse, there’s plenty going on in Poggio di Sotto’s 2010 Brunello. The first whiff tells you it’s something special. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($22, Banfi): Rosso di Montalcino, often dubbed “Baby Brunello,” gives consumers a glimmer of the grandeur of the more prestigious appellation at a more affordable price. And, unlike Brunello itself, wines carrying the Rosso di Montalcino name are ready to drink upon release.… Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($14): Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2013 Chianti Classico is a riper and fleshier rendition, without going over the top. It’s a very clean and pure expression of Chianti Classico with an attractive succulence in the finish. Freshness in the finish holds it all together. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($19): Castello di Ama, a top producer of Chianti Classico, make a splendid range of wines from this one, to their Chianti Classico Riserva to their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. This 2013 is a traditionally framed Chianti Classico that conveys a mixture of dark slightly bitter cherries and a savory earthiness. … Read more
Máté, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($45): Máté, a relative newcomer to Montalcino being founded in the 1990s, made a stellar Brunello in 2010. Powerful, without being overdone, their 2010 is more fruit forward and accessible than many of the other Brunello from the 2010 vintage. A dark core of minerality balances and enhances the ripe dark cherry fruit favors. … Read more
Mocali, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($40): Mocali made it into my list of top Brunello of 2010 with its impressive aromatics and gorgeous initial impact of dried and ripe fresh cherries offset by dense dark minerality. A lovely firmness and hint of bitterness round out this beautifully balanced wine. … Read more
Mastrojanni, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Mastrojanni’s 2010 Brunello, one of the top wines of the vintage, has gorgeous power balanced by suave elegance. An engaging floral aspect suggests greatness. What follows doesn’t disappoint. Polished, almost sweet, tannins surround a core of dark earthy minerality. Succulent dark black cherry-like flavors emerge with time. … Read more
Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): No doubt I will say more than once that the 2010 vintage for Brunello is outstanding — as good as it gets. Lisini, a traditional producer who rarely falters, made one of the star wines of the vintage. With an enormous initial aromatic impact, their 2010 delivers an alluring combination of flavors — earth and cherries — wrapped in firm, but polished, tannins. … Read more