($12, Palm Bay International): Despite being Italy’s 1st DOC (Denominazione Origine Controllata) Vernaccia di San Gimignano remains under the radar, which is great for consumers because, as this wine shows, they can offer great value. Fresh, crisp and cutting, this bright wine is easy to recommend. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Tuscany
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Sergio Zingarelli” 2010
($130, Palm Bay International): Gran Selezione, a category that debuted only in 2014, is intended to be for Chianti Classico of exceptional character. For a wine to receive that designation it must come from estate grapes (no purchased fruit), be aged even longer than a Chianti Classico Riserva and pass a tasting panel. … Read more
Rocca delle Macìe, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($16, Palm Bay International): Wines from the Chianti Classico region remain extremely popular. Indeed, we Americans drink more of them than the Italians. And this one from Rocca delle Macìe, a top producer, shows why. The 2013 is fresh with a food-enhancing bite and the non fruit — earthy — flavors that make Chianti Classico so appealing. … Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($40, Palm Bay International): Castello di Verrazzano’s Chianti Classico Riserva comes from grapes grown in their vineyards that are at a higher elevation on the slope than other parcels. The erosion and drainage at that part of the slope always results in concentrated grapes that produce powerful wines. … Read more
Tenuta Le Potazzine Gorelli, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($64): Potazzine Gorelli’s 2010 Brunello ranks with the best from that vintage. It has a beguiling combination of dark cherry-like flavors, firm — not hard — tannins and a paradoxical delicacy. Everything is in harmony. Flavors unfold as it sits in the glass and dance across the palate. … Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($47): It’s worth repeating: The 2010s from Brunello di Montalcino are staggeringly good. By and large, they are beautifully balanced with tannins that lend support without being astringent. Talenti’s was one of my favorites from the line up of 2010 Brunello I tasted in Montalcino this past February. … Read more
Vasco Sassetti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Vasco Sassetti made a powerful brooding Brunello in 2010 that conveys a healthy dose of dark minerality and earthiness that balances its ripeness. Despite its power, this is a fresh and lively wine. An attractive black cherry skin subtle bitterness reinforces the seriousness of this Brunello. … Read more
Col D’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($43): Col D’Orcia, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, made a stunning Rosso di Montalcino in 2010. It’s not surprising since 2010 was truly a great vintage for the region and Col D’Orcia has always embraced the second wine of the region. … Read more
Sesti, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($55): The vast range of Brunello I tasted at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual event in Montalcino at which the Brunello producers show their soon-to-be-released new vintage, convinced me that 2010 is one the truly great vintages for that DOCG. In my view, Brunello lovers cannot have too many 2010s in their cellars. … Read more
La Lastra, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($15): La Lastra is one of leading producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, an often-overlooked DOCG. With its cutting edge and slightly nutty finish, La Lastra’s 2013 could be the poster child for the appellation. This bright and energetic wine is perfect for linguine and clam sauce or simple broiled fish.… Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($32, Maison Marques & Domaines): Querciabella, one of the stellar producers in the Chianti Classico region, does not rest on their laurels. They are in the process of making Chianti Classico from several of the subregions of that DOCG, which will give consumers an opportunity, at long last, to discern the differences among the areas in the Chianti Classico region since the winemaking will be constant. … Read more
Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23): A traditional producer, Verrazzano uses only Sangiovese and Canaiolo for their Chianti Classico, reserving Cabernet and Merlot, the so-called international varieties, for their Super Tuscan bottling. Their powerful style is readily apparent with this 2012 Chianti Classico. Despite its concentration, the wine is balanced with an interplay of dark cherry-like fruit and savory elements all enlivened by refreshing acidity. … Read more
Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Pian delle Vigne” 2010
($62): It should come as no surprise that Antinori, who, as much as anyone, is responsible for the quality of Tuscan wines, should produce an outstanding Brunello. They certainly have with their 2010 Pian delle Vigne. Lofty aromatics predict an exciting wine. … Read more
Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($160): Poggio di Sotto, one of the region’s traditional producers, made one of the top wines of the vintage in 2010. Though not a powerhouse, there’s plenty going on in Poggio di Sotto’s 2010 Brunello. The first whiff tells you it’s something special. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($22, Banfi): Rosso di Montalcino, often dubbed “Baby Brunello,” gives consumers a glimmer of the grandeur of the more prestigious appellation at a more affordable price. And, unlike Brunello itself, wines carrying the Rosso di Montalcino name are ready to drink upon release.… Read more
Castello di Fonterutoli, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($14): Castello di Fonterutoli’s 2013 Chianti Classico is a riper and fleshier rendition, without going over the top. It’s a very clean and pure expression of Chianti Classico with an attractive succulence in the finish. Freshness in the finish holds it all together. … Read more
Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($19): Castello di Ama, a top producer of Chianti Classico, make a splendid range of wines from this one, to their Chianti Classico Riserva to their Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. This 2013 is a traditionally framed Chianti Classico that conveys a mixture of dark slightly bitter cherries and a savory earthiness. … Read more
Máté, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($45): Máté, a relative newcomer to Montalcino being founded in the 1990s, made a stellar Brunello in 2010. Powerful, without being overdone, their 2010 is more fruit forward and accessible than many of the other Brunello from the 2010 vintage. A dark core of minerality balances and enhances the ripe dark cherry fruit favors. … Read more
Mocali, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($40): Mocali made it into my list of top Brunello of 2010 with its impressive aromatics and gorgeous initial impact of dried and ripe fresh cherries offset by dense dark minerality. A lovely firmness and hint of bitterness round out this beautifully balanced wine. … Read more
Mastrojanni, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): Mastrojanni’s 2010 Brunello, one of the top wines of the vintage, has gorgeous power balanced by suave elegance. An engaging floral aspect suggests greatness. What follows doesn’t disappoint. Polished, almost sweet, tannins surround a core of dark earthy minerality. Succulent dark black cherry-like flavors emerge with time. … Read more
Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($60): No doubt I will say more than once that the 2010 vintage for Brunello is outstanding — as good as it gets. Lisini, a traditional producer who rarely falters, made one of the star wines of the vintage. With an enormous initial aromatic impact, their 2010 delivers an alluring combination of flavors — earth and cherries — wrapped in firm, but polished, tannins. … Read more
Caiarossa, IGP Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($85): The 2010 Caiarossa, an extraordinary wine and the best from this estate since its commercial debut with the 2004 vintage, shows how far this producer has come in a very short time. Owned by same Dutch family who own the Margaux classified growths Château Giscours and Château du Tertre, and whose general manager, Alexander Van Beek, runs those two Bordeaux properties, Caiarossa uses a seeming mishmash of grapes — Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even Alicante — to make this impressive Super Tuscan. … Read more
Castello di Uzzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($18): The wines from Castello di Uzzano always show well at the comprehensive tasting of Chianti Classico held in Florence every year. They use only Sangiovese — Cabernet need not apply — for their Chianti Classico and avoid small oak barrels to allow the flavors of the region to shine. … Read more
Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($20, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of my favorite Tuscan producers, succeeded again with their 2013 Chianti Classico. Not gussied up with new oak or Cabernet Sauvignon, Castellare di Castellina sticks with traditional techniques to produce an easy-to-recommend wine replete with herbal and earthy flavors that offset and complement its bright cherry signature. … Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($25): Paolo de Marchi, who, along with his family, owns Isole e Olena, and is responsible for the wines, is a thoughtful, ever-questioning man who makes exceptional wines. Rare, perhaps unique, in the region, he makes no Chianti Classico Riserva — only this one and his Super Tuscan, Cepparello, which is made entirely from Sangiovese and which is truly super. … Read more
Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Carato” 2009
($32, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Carato, another Vernaccia di San Gimignano from the exemplary producer Montenidoli, is fermented and aged for a year in barrel before bottling. The winemaking here is so precise that you don’t taste woodiness. Rather, you feel the effect of wood on the wine — it’s a fuller, richer version of Vernaccia di San Gimignano that retains finesse and vigor. … Read more
Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Fiore” 2012
($25, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Montenidoli is one of the very best producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Anyone who has been disappointed by this category of Italian white should taste their wines to see how grand this DOCG can be. Montenidoli makes three Vernaccia di San Gimignano; this one, made from free-run juice and labeled Fiore (flower) is, indeed, floral, fresh and clean. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($34, Dalla Terra Direct): Since the 2010 vintage was superb in Chianti Classico and Badia a Coltibuono is one of the star producers in that region, it is not surprising that this wine is stellar. Not boisterous, this is a classically proportioned Chianti Classico Riserva with great elegance and a seamless combination of bright red fruit flavors and earthy notes. … Read more
Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($14, Dalla Terra Direct): This Chianti Classico reminds us that Badia a Coltibuono consistently makes attractive wines. The vintage was difficult in the Chianti Classico region because of less-than-perfect weather. Nonetheless, Badia a Coltibuono has fashioned a traditionally framed — that is, not overdone — Chianti Classico. … Read more
Marchese Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano Vecchie Viti” 2011
($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s finest producers, owns estates throughout Tuscany. Their Nipozzano estate is home to their splendid line of Chianti from the often-overlooked Rùfina subzone of that region. This bottling is from the oldest vines (Vecchie Viti) on the property. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Alle Mura Riserva 2007
($80): Castello Banfi has been — and remains — a leader in Montalcino, specifically refining and raising the profile of one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. They are one of the largest and best producers in the region and have devoted tons of money and done decades of research to determine which clones of Sangiovese do best in the region. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio all’Oro 2007
($140, Cru Artisan Wines): When Castello Banfi purchased land and established a winery in Montalcino in the late 1970s, the locals nervously joked that they would ruin Brunello’s reputation by bottling it under screw top — they were (and still are) the USA importer of Riunite.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio alle Mura 2011
($32, Cru Artisan Wines): The best Rosso di Montalcino, such as this one, can truly be considered “baby” Brunello. Though they lack the complexity of Brunello, they are ready to drink sooner, provide a hint of the grandeur of the bigger brother, and are far easier on the wallet.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio alle Mura 2008
($72, Cru Artisan Wines): As much as I like Banfi’s Rosso from the Poggio alle Mura vineyard, their Brunello from that vineyard shows why Brunello is one of Italy’s great wine. The 2008 vintage, an excellent one for Brunello, was cooler producing structured racy wines.… Read more
Rocca delle Macie, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009
($23, Palm Bay International): Reflective of the warmer vintage in Tuscany, Rocca delle Macie’s 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva conveys a juicier and riper cherry-like fruitiness than usual. Still, it has plenty of that mouth tingling acidity that makes matching Chianti with pasta with a hearty meat sauce such a pleasure. … Read more
Col d’Orcia, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($23, Palm Bay International): Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of Col d’Orcia, is very pleased with their 2012 Rosso–and they should be, because they hit the mark with this wine in a difficult year. Poor weather reduced the vines’ ability to ripe a full load of grapes, according to Cinzano. … Read more
Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($33, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Querciabella is always on my short list of top Chianti Classico producers. Their 2011 reinforces my opinion. True to their style of Chianti Classico, their charming 2011 is filled with ripe, dark cherry-like flavors and spice, yet avoids being heavy or overdone because of its vivacity. … Read more
Isole e Olena, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2011
($25, Grape Expectations): Paolo de Marchi, owner, viticulturist and winemaker at Isole e Olena, makes only two Sangiovese-based wines. This one and his super stellar Cepparello. Since he stopped making a Chianti Classico Riserva more than 25 years ago, the Sangiovese that doesn’t go into Cepparello goes into his anything but normal, Chianti Classico.… Read more
Castello Montauto, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($13, Banfi Imports): Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a light white wine, was the first to be awarded DOC status in 1966. Despite that accolade, it seems to have lost panache, which is too bad because it’s a great choice for a multitude of lighter styled seafood dishes. … Read more
Val delle Rose, Morellino di Scansano Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009
($22, Banfi Imports): Though Tuscan and made from Sangiovese, the wines from Morellino di Scansano are far different from those of the Chianti region. The 2009 Val delle Rose Riserva is an excellent example, focusing more on dark, Bing cherry-like flavors more than the earthy spicy ones found in Chianti. … Read more
Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($25, MW Imports): Monsanto, a Tuscan producer that consistently turns out stellar wines, eschews the use of “international” varieties in their Chianti Classico. Monsanto’s 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, a traditional blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, delivers a wonderful combination of cherry-like fruitiness and spicy earthiness. … Read more
Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Poggio” 2009
($55, MW Imports): Il Poggio, a 13-acre single-vineyard that sits about 1,000 feet above sea level, is the source of Monsanto’s flagship wine. The 2009, from a ripe vintage, is positively explosive with a captivating smoky and mineraly quality. Racy acidity balances the ripeness so there’s no mistaking it for anything but great Chianti Classico. … Read more
Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($35, Vinifera Imports): Combine a top vintage, 2010 in Tuscany, and a top Chianti Classico producer, Fontodi, and you get, not surprisingly, a top wine. There is plenty of deep red, almost black fruit flavors here and enough earthy spice and acidity to remind you this is still Chianti Classico — a very complex one at that. … Read more
Abruzzo, The New Tuscany, Part II
Although I’ve said it before, it’s worth repeating: wines from Abruzzo deliver more bang for the buck than you’d expect. The region is starting to realize its enormous potential for making high-quality, well-priced wines. Part one of this two-part series was an overview of the region.… Read more