Wines from Alsace are labeled by grape, not place, which makes them unique among top quality AOC (appellation origine controllée) French wines. The French label all other top-quality AOC wines by place name—where the grapes grown—Chablis, Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fuissé—to name just four of the hundreds of names. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Alsace
Domaine Barmès-Buecher, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Rosenberg” 2022
($36, Petit Pois Corporation / Fleet Street Wine Merchants): Pinot Blanc can often be light and innocuous. Not in the hands of Barmès-Buecher. Biodynamic since 2001, family owned and run Barmès-Buecher shows how captivating Pinot Blanc can be. Vibrant acidity balances and amplifies its density and pear-like nuances. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Les Jardins” 2021
($42, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): Pinot Noir is Alsace’s overlooked variety. It accounts for only about 12 percent of the region’s planting and much of it goes into Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, which must be made exclusively from that variety. So, it is not surprising there’s not a lot of it on retailers’ shelves. … Read more
Jean-Baptiste Adam, Alsace (France) Riesling “Les Natures” 2021
($25, The Sorting Table): Consumers tell me they avoid Riesling because they don’t know if it will be sweet or dry. It is an understandable concern that mandates knowing the producer’s style or trusting a review. For those of you unfamiliar with Adam’s style, trust me, their riveting 2021 Les Natures cuts like a scalpel without a trace of sweetness. … Read more
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Muscat 2021
($29, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Although Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, one of Alsace’s great producers, was founded in 1959, the family traces its winemaking origins to 1620. Still family owned and run, they own about 100 acres, which they farm organically and biodynamically. … Read more
Domaine Trapet, Alsace (France) Riesling “R.Q.W.R.” 2018
($27): My first introduction to Trapet, years ago, was with their stunning Burgundies. Then I discovered they also make wines in Alsace. Unsurprisingly, given their finesse-filled Burgundies, their wines from Alsace, made from organic and biodynamically farmed grapes, show grace and elegant as well. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Classic” 2017
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd.): Hugel, one of the brightest lights in Alsace, excels with their Rieslings, late harvest wines, and just about everything. This “classic” Pinot Gris delivers a touch of sweetness balanced by acidity that leaves the mouth clean and fresh. … Read more
Caves de Beblenheim, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Heimberger Blanc de Noirs NV
($18, Votto Vines Importing): A Crémant d’Alsace Rosé is as safe a bet as you can get for a well-priced pink bubbly because regulations require it be made entirely from Pinot Noir. Moreover, believe it or not, Pinot Noir does well in Alsace, especially now with the enhanced ripening due to climate change. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine. Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers. Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): All Crémant d’Alsace is made by the traditional Champagne method, that is, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. What’s unique about Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, unlike other Crémant Rosé, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is that it must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): Founded in 1836, Gustave Lorentz’s roots go back to the mid 17th century when the family was involved in barrel making and brokering wine. Today, they are recognized as one of Alsace’s top producers. Their Riesling from the Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim vineyard — they own a third of the vineyard — is always a sensational wine. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut Rosé NV
($30, Quintessential Wines): All Crémant d’Alsace is made by the traditional Champagne method, that is, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. What’s unique about Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, unlike other Crémant Rosé, such as Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is that it must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Famille Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer “Classic” 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons): Gewürztraminer, with its overtly spicy and floral components, is a wine people either love or hate. Although I’m in the “love” category, I still find it frustrating because of the unknown level of sweetness it conveys, from steely dry to rather sweet. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Reserve 2016
($22, Foley Family Artisan Imports & Spirits): Gewürztraminer, a wine that consumers either love or hate, can be challenging to order because its level of sweetness varies. Fortunately, Albrecht has placed a sweetness scale used by many Riesling producers on the back label to guide consumers. … Read more
Léon Beyer, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2015
($28, Banville Wine Merchants): Léon Beyer is a good name to remember when buying Alsace wines because theirs are always precise and excellent. This Gewürztraminer, for example, his bone dry, almost steely, accented by the spiciness for which the grape is known. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Noir “Le Rosé” 2017
($18, Quintessential): Although most people, with good reason, associated Alsace with white wines, such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, or Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir actually accounts for roughly 10 percent of plantings in that region. This rosé of Pinot Noir comes from grapes planted at the foot and just outside of the Grand Cru vineyard, Altenberg de Bergheim. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2016
($25, Quintessential): Gewurztraminer is an idiosyncratic wine — people seem either to love or hate it. Complicating its popularity is an undisclosed level of sweetness, not unlike an impediment to enjoying Riesling. Gustave Lorentz, a classic name in Alsace, makes impeccable wines. … Read more
Joseph Cattin, Crémant d’Alsace (France) “Brut Cattin” NV
($15, T. Edward Wines): Crémant d’Alsace continues to gain in popularity, accounting for a quarter of the region’s production. The real gem in that category for me is the Crémant Rosé, which, by law, must be made entirely from Pinot Noir. … Read more
Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Reserve NV
($19, Wilson Daniels): Sparr’s Crémant d’Alsace Brut has a completely different, yet equally attractive, profile compared to their Brut Rosé. Linear and cutting, it delivers an appealing creaminess that balances its firmness. It reminds us of the bargains that non-Champagne sparkling wines can provide. … Read more
Pierre Sparr, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV
($19, Wilson Daniels): Crémant d’Alsace Rosé must be made entirely from Pinot Noir, which helps explains why they, as a category, are very good. That Pierre Sparr, a top Alsace producer, made this one explains why it’s easy to recommend. Crémant (literally meaning, “creamy”), from Alsace or elsewhere, has about two-thirds the fizz as Champagne, which means they have a rounder texture. … Read more
Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim Vendage Tardive 2011
($33, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Though labeled, late harvest (“vendage tardive”), which would imply sweetness, this Gewürztraminer is not any sweeter than Zind-Humbrecht’s regular bottling. It’s just more concentrated, with a dash of botrytis-like richness and a racy vibrancy in the finish. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace Vendange Tardive (France) Gewürztraminer 2007
($40, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Hugel is the giant among producers of Vendange Tardive (literally, late harvest) wine. The best ones, such as this 2007 (sold in a 375 ml bottle), impress with their concentration, elegance and acidity rather than their sweetness.… Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Gewürztraminer 2012
($29, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Hugel is one of Alsace’s best and most consistent producers. Their wines always accurately reflect the varietal and the origin of the grapes. This one, a blend from a variety of vineyards, is a classic example of Alsace Gewürztraminer. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling 2012
($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, this house’s brand manager for the United States, summed up this Riesling, “It may not be perfect, but it is how we want it.” I would disagree slightly–it is perfect for the price. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée des Amours” 2010
($18, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Jean-Frédéric Hugel, Etienne’s enthusiastic son, loves the 2010 vintage because it gave them great ripeness without losing acidity. This Pinot Blanc, one of Hugel’s best ever, reflects that assessment. It has unusual depth for Pinot Blanc, and invigorating acidity keeps in fresh and lively. … Read more
Domaine Paul Blanck, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2011
($16, Michael Skurnik): Blanck’s 2011 Pinot Blanc is a wonderfully versatile wine. The barest hint of sweetness, which comes across as a pleasing roundness, makes it a perfect stand-alone aperitif. A paradoxical bitter grapefruit rind nuance in the finish and excellent balancing acidity adds backbone and verve, making it a great choice to accompany spicy food.… Read more
Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Les Princes Abbés” 2011
($24, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This ripe, yet not sweet, Pinot Gris delivers subtle peach and pear notes buttressed by good acidity. It’s depth and texture tells you it’s definitely in the Pinot Gris, as opposed to the lighter, more flowery Pinot Grigio, style.… Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) NV
($22, Quintessential Wines): Crémant d’Alsace, especially from a top producer like Lorentz, is a under-appreciated category. Less “serious” than Champagne, this is a creamy, soothing bubbly that is perfect for summer sipping. Dry and invigorating, without being astringent or aggressive, it works equally well with grilled fish or other main courses as it does as an aperitif.… Read more
Kuentz-Bas, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2008
($16, Kermit Lynch): Pinot Blanc from Kuentz-Bas shows individuality with its slightly creamier profile. A clean citrus finish brings it all into focus. It can do double duty as a before dinner drink and an accompaniment to simple seafood. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 26, 2012
Sipp, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc 2009
($12, Classic Wines): Never an “important” wine, Pinot Blanc ranges from insipid very satisfying. Put Sipp’s into the very satisfying–and bargain-priced–category. Unlike many Pinot Blanc on the market, Sipp’s has real character, with a firm edge and lively austerity. Steamed clams, anyone?… Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc Réserve 2010
($14, Quintessential Wines): In Alsace, a wine labeled Pinot Blanc can be a blend of that grape and Auxerrois. The latter is often used to lend fatness to the wine. Lorentz’s, a blend of Auxerrois (90%) and Pinot Blanc, has the telltale richness of Auxerrois while maintaining great green apple-like freshness. … Read more
Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann “Clos St. Urbain” 2008
($70, The Sorting Table): Zind-Humbrecht is arguably the most renowned name in Alsace. The Clos St. Urbain is a particular plot within the Grand Cru Rangen vineyard (Thann is the town). This rich and lush Pinot Gris delivers ripe pear-like flavors coupled with subtle pineappley undertones. … Read more
Willm, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2009
($20, Touton): What a buy! With a whiff of cherries–I can see why the vineyard’s called Kirchberg–and bracing minerality, this is truly grand cru Riesling. Long and precise, it awakens the palate without assaulting it. A glass on a hot summer’s day is refreshingly clean and bright, but a couple of glasses with grilled swordfish and a caper butter sauce is even better.… Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2005
($51, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, one of Alsace’s top producers, eschews the Alsace’s Grand Cru classification system. They believe politics trumped terroir when vineyards were awarded Grand Cru status. Hence, the Grand Cru designation will never appear on Hugel’s labels even though the wines come from Grand Cru sites. … Read more
Schoenheitz, Crémant d’Alsace (France) Brut NV
($20, Oz Wine Company): Looking for a bright and zesty sparkling wine for summertime sipping? Here’s one suggestion from Alsace, a place well-known for its Riesling, Gewurztraminer and other still white wines, but somehow under the radar for bubbly. Its creamy suaveness is nicely balanced by an invigorating crisp edginess. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Crémant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV
($25, Quintessential): Sadly, the wine drinking public often overlooks Crémant d’Alsace. By definition, a Crémant–be it from Alsace or Burgundy–is a sparkling wine that has fewer bubbles than Champagne. As such, Crémants are, as the name implies, creamier. Lorentz, one of the top Alsace producers, uses Pinot Noir exclusively for this Crémant Rosé.… Read more
Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling 2008
($20, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, a family run firm established in picturesque town of Riquewihr in 1639, is one of Alsace’s best producers. This, their “basic” Riesling, is made from grapes grown in the surrounding area, which is a part of Alsace well known for the varietal. … Read more
Hugel & Fils, Alsace (France) Riesling “Jubilee” 2007
($55, Frederick Wildman): Hugel, along with Trimbach and Beyer, other stellar Alsace producers, vigorously oppose the Grand Cru categorization of Alsace vineyards despite their ownership in many vineyards that received Grand Cru status. They believe the classification system is flawed because it includes inferior sites that dilute quality. … Read more
Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling “Cuvée R” 2008
($18, Diageo Chateau & Estates): Trimbach is one of the greatest producers in Alsace. Their range of Riesling–from their basic one that’s a blend from many vineyards to their sensational single vineyard Clos Ste Hune–is superb. The Cuvee R represents the best batches from their basic bottling and lies between it and their one labeled Frederic Emile, which comes their grand cru vineyards adjacent to the winery. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Heissenberg 2007
($40, Kermit Lynch): This wine truly deserves it Grand Cru designation. It has an alluring, almost lacey, combination of clean minerality and delicate white floral notes. The interplay between the two along with subtle peach-like nuances means you never tire of tasting–drinking–it. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace Grand Cru (Alsace, France) Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 2005
($50, Quintessential): The Grand Cru classification of vineyards occurred in Alsace roughly 50 years later than it did in Burgundy. But similar to Burgundy, Grand Cru in Alsace doesn’t automatically mean the wine will be great. The producer is still the most important element in determining quality. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) 2009
($20, Quintessential): The appealing aromatic spice of Gewurztraminer tickles your nostrils and palate the instant you sample this wine. Paradoxically, a bare hint of sweetness actually amplifies the wine’s spiciness. Not overdone, it would be fine with roast pork or chili-laden fare.… Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace Grand Cru (France) Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 2005
($50, Quintessential): The Grand Cru classification of vineyards occurred in Alsace roughly 50 years later than it did in Burgundy. But similar to Burgundy, Grand Cru in Alsace doesn’t automatically mean the wine will be great. The producer is still the most important element in determining quality, and Lorentz is a great producer. … Read more
Gustave Lorentz, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer 2009
($20, Quintessential): The appealing aromatic spice of Gewurztraminer tickles your nostrils and palate the instant you sample this wine. Paradoxically, a bare hint of sweetness actually amplifies the wine’s spiciness. Not overdone, it would be fine with roast pork or chili-laden fare.… Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Cremant d’Alsace (Alsace, France) Brut Rosé NV
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Crémant d’Alsace, which is made by the traditional (Champagne) method from any of the Alsace grapes except Gewurztraminer and Chasselas, is an under-appreciated category of sparkling wine. As a category they are lighter and less complex than Champagne, but when talented producers, such as Albrecht, make them, they deliver considerable pleasure. … Read more
Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling 2007
($17, Diageo Chateau & Estates): There’s no better Alsace producer than Trimbach. Founded in 1626 and still family owned, Trimbach makes Rieslings that remain among the benchmarks for Alsace. Based in Ribeauvillé, an especially good area for Riesling, they produce this wine from a combination of their grapes and ones purchased from growers in the surrounding villages. … Read more
Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling ‘Cuvee Frederic Emile’ 2002
($60, Diageo Chateau & Estates): Trimbach, like other leading Alsace producers, Hugel and Beyer, eschews the Alsace Grand Cru classification system of vineyards, insisting that when the boundaries were drawn they included inferior sites. Hence, even though the grapes for this wine come exclusively from the core of the Grand Cru sites of Geisberg and Osterberg, on the steep slope directly behind their winery, Grand Cru does not appear on the label. … Read more
Trimbach, Alsace (France) Riesling Clos Ste Hune 2001
($150, Diageo Chateau & Estates): The Clos Sainte Hune is a small parcel within the Grand Cru Rosacker vineyard in the village of Hunawihr that has been owned exclusively by the Trimbach family for more than 200 years. In the Trimbach tradition, the label will never carry its Grand Cru designation despite the grandeur of the wine, which many authorities believe is Alsace’s finest. … Read more
Domaine Ostertag, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Barriques” 2008
($20, Kermit Lynch): The word “barriques” (small, 225-liter French oak barrels) on a label of Pinot Blanc, a fairly delicate grape, is bound to dissuade many from tasting this wine. It certainly put me off and I had every intention of not liking the wine. … Read more
Hugel, Alsace (France) Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours” 2006
($16, Frederick Wildman): Hugel is one of the undisputed leaders in Alsace so it’s not surprising that their Pinot Blanc–a wine that can be innocuous–is so full of character. Delicate notes of white flowers grab your attention, but it’s the bracing character of this unoaked wine that keeps it. … Read more