($135, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Taittinger’s top Champagne, Comtes des Champagne is a Blanc de Blancs made from Chardonnay grown exclusively in Grand Cru villages.   While the Comtes des Champagne is always one of the great prestige bottlings from the region, the 2005 is particularly noteworthy because it retains incredible vivacity despite the ripeness of that vintage. … Read more

($90, Robert Katcher Selections): Blanc de Blancs Champagne is rare, comprising only about five percent of all Champagne, and expensive since Chardonnay is planted only in the best sites — on the chalky soils of the small (8,000 acres) of the Côte des Blancs. … Read more

($55, Loubaton Imports): This producer’s Champagne was previously unknown to me.  That’s my loss and I now will try to make up for lost time.  Extra Brut Champagne is an extremely tough and expensive category to produce.  There can be no compromise on the quality of the grapes because the extremely low dosage means that there’s little sugar to cover up whatever flaws are present. … Read more

($120, Frederick Wildman): Pol Roger is one my favorite Champagne producers.  Their non-vintage bottling is consistently appealing and always well priced.  They are a small producer among the Grande Marque (big name) Champagne houses with only about 1.2 million bottles annually (Moët and Chandon, the largest house produces 20+ million bottles annually). … Read more

($100, Kobrand): Les Folies de la Marquetterie bottle is not meant to replace or compete with Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, which remains their Tête du Cuvée, or super-premium, Champagne.  Indeed, the blend of grapes in Les Folies de la Marquetterie leans heavily on Pinot Noir, whereas their Comtes de Champagne is made entirely from Chardonnay. … Read more

($59, Henriot, Inc): Henriot is one of the few producers to make a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne.  I, for one, am glad they do because it’s a real treat that doesn’t break the bank, like the super premium bottlings do. … Read more

($63): Suenen is a small family run “grower” Champagne producer based in Cramant, one of the top villages in the Champagne region for Chardonnay.  The so-called “grower” Champagnes are produced from the family’s own vineyards without relying on purchased grapes as most of the big name houses do. … Read more

($85, Transatlantic Bubbles): Georges Laval makes, what’s known in the industry, as “grower” Champagne.  That is, he makes Champagne from grapes grown in his own vineyards.  That’s in contrast to the big houses that own relatively little land and buy grapes from growers throughout the Champagne region. … Read more

($36, JAD Imports): Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne.  This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance.  Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink–and a very fine one at that — but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. … Read more

($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance.  This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more

($70, Laurent-Perrier USA): Relying on a substantial amount of Chardonnay in their blends, Laurent-Perrier consistently makes elegant and suave Champagne. The 2004, a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, continues that tradition. Creamy and delicate, it caresses the palate. There’s just the right amount of acidity in its very fine bubbles to keep it fresh and lively.… Read more

($82, Moët Hennessey): Founded in 1729, Ruinart is Champagne’s oldest house.  They focus on Chardonnay, which explains why their stylish and elegant rosé contains such a large proportion of it in the blend, typically 45%.  The remainder of the blend is Pinot Noir, which contributes bright red berry fruit notes. … Read more

($70, Polaner): Gatinois, a family run firm located in the village of Äy, focuses on Pinot Noir-based Champagne because Äy is a Grand Cru village that is one of the top places for that varietal.  As such, all their Champagnes have the power associated with that grape. … Read more

($53, Polaner): Agrapart & Fils, a small producer who farms about 25 acres of vineyards in the Côtes des Blancs, focuses, not surprisingly given their location, on Chardonnay.  The 7 Crus Brut takes its name from the 7 villages, four of which are Grand Cru, from which the grapes come. … Read more

($70): Pommery has succeeded brilliantly with their 2004. A blend of wines made from grapes grown only in Grand Cru villages, this mid-weight Champagne conveys extraordinary persistence and polish. Layers of subtle toastiness and creaminess make each sip a new discovery.… Read more

($60, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): A delicate salmon pink color catches your eye and then the captivating wild strawberry-like flavors grab your attention. This is a serious Rosé, dry, with layers of flavors and great length. It’s a great choice as a stand-alone aperitif and vigorous enough to bring to the table to accompany delicately smoked salmon.… Read more

($50, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): Founded in 1834, this family firm is, as seems to be the tradition in Champagne, run currently by a woman, Evelyne Roques-Boizel. A Pinot Noir dominant (55%) blend, Boizel’s non-vintage bottling offers a ying/yang combination of earthy intensity and freshness.… Read more

($135, Pernod-Ricard): The “flower bottle,” as this Champagne is affectionately called, is Perrier Jouët’s prestige bottling. Don’t be fooled by its lighter style. The gorgeous nose predicts greatness and you’re not disappointed. Refined and persistent, its class and stature sneaks up on you.… Read more

($78, Henriot, USA): Henriot is one of the most under-rated of the major Champagne producers. Their prestige bottling, Les Enchanteleurs, is consistently a stunning wine. And their vintage bottling never disappoints. This 2005 has the ripeness of the vintage offset by uplifting, not aggressive, acidity.… Read more

($80, Vineyard Brands): It’s no wonder that Delamotte makes a fabulous Blanc de Blancs Champagne since they are located in — and own vineyards in — Mesnil sur Oger, a village in the Côtes des Blancs that has grand cru status because of its exceptional Chardonnay.… Read more

($70, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors):  2002 is a great year for Champagne.  And fortunately for us consumers, a few, like this one, are still on the market.  It’s earthy and intense, in a very good way, with cutting acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. … Read more

($96, Vintage ’59 Imports):  I don’t know how I have managed to overlook Lilbert’s Champagnes over the years.  I tasted their whole range at a tasting sponsored by the CIVC, the trade group that represents Champagne producers, that included hundreds of Champagnes from scores of producers. … Read more

($99, Terlato):  I don’t know how Bollinger manages to combine power and grace so successfully in all their Champagnes.  The 2002 is especially noteworthy for this combination of intensity and elegance without being overdone.  The biscuit-like flavors seem to persist forever. … Read more

($65, David Boller Wines):  Lacy and precise, the suaveness of a Blanc de Blancs is apparent.  Its cutting crispness makes a lovely counterpoint to its creaminess.  Its grandeur is manifest by elegance, not power, and great length. 93 Michael Apstein Nov 20, 2012… Read more

($50, Laurent-Perrier USA): The 2002 Champagnes are simply gorgeous and fortunately, there are a few, like this one, still in market. Laurent -Perrier is partial to Chardonnay in their blends and it shows in this gorgeous wine. All elegance and lightness, it has a gentle, but long, persistence.… Read more

($70, Winesellers, Ltd):  Bruno Paillard recently acquired Besserat de Bellefon and his hand is apparent is the quality of this wine.  A blend of Chardonnay (54%), Pinot Noir (15%) and Pinot Meunier, it combines a mouth filling creaminess, elegance and power. … Read more

($50, Laurent-Perrier USA): I was pleasantly surprised to find this Champagne still selling at the retail level at Garnet Wines and Liquors in Manhattan because most Champagnes from the excellent 2002 vintage have disappeared. It has the hallmark elegance of Laurent Perrier, a suave creaminess and lovely freshness despite 10 years of age.… Read more

($100, Vintus):  The grapes for this bottling come exclusively from four grand cru villages in the Côte des Blancs, the area within the Champagne region known for Chardonnay.  One taste explains why many people swoon over a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. … Read more

($60, Moët Hennessy USA):  Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, some how fails to garner the attention it deserves.  That’s a shame because their Champagne is flat out classy.  Made entirely from Chardonnay (the definition of blanc de blancs), this one conveys an elegance and luxurious creaminess usually found only in the so-called “prestige” bottlings. … Read more

($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):  Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm.  They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country.  Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal. … Read more

($93, Ideal Wines):

Ninety-plus bucks for a non-vintage Champagne is asking a lot.  But Egly-Ouriet delivers with their VP (Vieillissement Prolongé or long aging) bottling.  Entirely from Grand Cru villages, this Champagne is a seamless blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. … Read more

($75, Kobrand): I’m always skeptical when a producer labels a wine “prestige.”  But this one deserves that moniker.  It’s one of the best non-vintage Rosé Champagnes I have tasted in a long time.  A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it captures the power of the former and the elegance of the latter. … Read more

($40, Cognac One): Ayala takes its name from the family of Spanish aristocrats, one of whom founded the firm, and not the town, Aÿ, in which it is based.  What it does take from that town, renowned for its Pinot Noir, is a healthy amount of that variety–45%–in the blend. … Read more

($66, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Roederer has achieved great success with its 2002 vintage Brut.  Quite toasty and powerful, it nonetheless retains grace and finesse.  Beautifully balanced, the biscuity, creamy elements extend into the lengthy finish.  Although luscious to drink now, the supporting acidity suggests this Champagne will age and improve.… Read more

($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members.  Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. … Read more

($165, Moet Hennessy USA): More forward than the fabulous 1996 Grande Dame, this is one of the rare times I would recommend drinking Grande Dame upon release, instead of cellaring it for a few years.  Its opulence and softer-than-usual profile makes it ideal for enjoying now. … Read more

($69, Moet Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house in the world and dating from 1729, is making a welcome reappearance on these shores.  The Chardonnay grapes for this Blanc de Blancs come exclusively from premier cru villages.  A small amount of the Chardonnay comes from the Montagne de Reims, an area traditionally known for Pinot Noir, not Chardonnay. … Read more

($70, Wildman): Fuller and more forward than the 1996 Pol Roger–which still could use a few more years of bottle age–the 1998 is very appealing now.  It’s suave and charming despite its considerable power derived in part, no doubt, from the predominance of Pinot Noir in the blend.… Read more

($100, Moet Hennessy USA): This has to be the Champagne deal of decade.  Veuve Clicquot, like many Champagne houses, opted to re-release older vintages into the market so customers can discover the glorious taste of mature Champagne.  Aged on the lees–the dead yeast–for almost a decade and then aged for an equal time in the bottle, this wine delivers a complex array of nutty, toasty and yeasty flavors balanced beautifully by an uplifting freshness–acidity imparted by the bubbles. … Read more

($825, Moet Hennessy USA): This is described as the ‘granddaddy’ of the Krug line by a representative of its importing company, but that’s an understatement.  Krug, one of the few Champagne houses that still ferments its still wine in oak barrels, makes an extraordinary line of Champagne. … Read more

($120, Ex-Cellars): Although Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is from a single vineyard, the vineyard’s exposure is varied, which allows blending of wines from different plots to achieve an extraordinary balance of power, elegance and freshness. The vineyard, almost 14 acres planted roughly two-thirds to Pinot Noir and one-third to Chardonnay, comprises a steep due-south-facing slope where grapes achieve full ripeness, and an east-facing portion where grapes become less ripe but have higher acidity.… Read more

($250, Moet Hennessy USA): Krug ages their vintage Champagne and waits to release it until they feel it is ready to drink. Hence, the 1995 is their current release. (They released their awesome 1990 vintage Champagne only a few years ago).… Read more

($80, Frederick Wildman): Moderately powerful and rich, this rosé is perfectly balanced and a delight to drink now. Flavors of strawberries and other red fruits fill the glass while sparkling acidity keeps the wine fresh. Its wonderfully soft and creamy texture brings you back for more.… Read more

($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs.… Read more

($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more

($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot’s rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin.… Read more

($50, Partner’s Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers’ shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish.… Read more