Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014

($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component.  As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers. Read more

Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013

($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis.  This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones — 2012 and 2014.  A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest. Read more

Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): As expected, Billaud-Simon’s 2014 Chablis has more flint and less fruit than its 2014 Petit Chablis (also reviewed this week).  My advice is to buy a bottle of each and taste them side-by-side.  Re-corked and stored in a cold refrigerator, they will remain fresh for a few days — longer than you might think — so you can repeat the experiment nightly, at least for a while.Read more

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2012

($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Faiveley, though based in Nuits-St. Georges in the heart of the Côte d’Or, has always had a strong presence in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise.  Indeed, they own the entire Clos des Myglands, a Premier Cru vineyard, making it a monopole, a rarity in Burgundy where vineyard ownership is usually divided among many growers.Read more

Maison Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2013

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers.  And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012

($30, Wilson Daniels): Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais.  The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. Read more

Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012

($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais.  In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus.  The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. Read more

Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011

($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne.  As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all.  Read more

Maison Lou Dumont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012

($29, Langdon Shiverick Imports): A wonderful Bourgogne Rouge, this wine demonstrates the appeal of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, combining the fruitiness of the variety with the savory character that must come from the locale.  Its impact belies its delicacy.  A charming rusticity makes it an excellent choice for a roast chicken with an aromatic mushroom sauce. Read more

Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sur le Sentier du Clou 2013

($58): Domaine Marc Colin, now run by his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline, is a star producer in Burgundy, in general and in St. Aubin, in particular.  The domaine produces eight different–and distinct–premier crus from St. Aubin, a village that is slightly off the beaten track but lies adjacent to Chassagne Montrachet. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2013

($24, Louis Latour USA): Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one.  Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé.  With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. Read more

All Smiles in Burgundy

There were smiles all around Burgundy–at least before the horrific events in Paris on Friday, November 13. And with good reason: The 2014 whites are stunning. And overall, yields in 2014 were closer to normal–70 to 80 percent–after four short harvests, though, as Frédéric Barnier, winemaker at Maison Louis Jadot, noted, “We are still looking for a full [normal] crop.” Read more

Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013

($20, T. Edward Wines):  Yes, you read that correctly — white Beaujolais.  Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation.  And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy.Read more

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Malconsorts 2013

($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy.  The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. Read more

Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011

($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert.  Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2013

($32, Dreyfus, Ashby & Company): Though based in Beaune and known best as a top Burgundy négociant, Maison Joseph Drouhin consistently produces excellent Chablis from its extensive holdings there.  Its Chablis, “Réserve de Vaudon,” comes from the Vallée de Vauvillien, which is located between Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre, two of the best Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Mâcon Villages (Burgundy, France) 2014

($14, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Jadot’s 2014 Mâcon Villages offers a fabulous comparison to their very good one from 2012.  While still displaying an engaging creaminess, it’s slightly less rich than the 2012, but has more energy and vivacity.  Those whose tastes run to more voluptuous wines — though still not in the New World ripeness category — will enjoy the 2012. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot (Burgundy, France) “Domaine Louis Jadot” 2012

($159, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): At first impression, this wine announces its Grand Cru origin. And it keeps sending this signal as you continue to taste it. Part of its grandeur, no doubt, comes from its being an estate wine. (Domaine Louis Jadot in the box at the base of the label means that the grapes come from their portion of the Clos Vougeot vineyard.)Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2010

($120, Louis Latour USA): No one produces a better Corton Charlemagne consistently than Maison Louis Latour.  Latour, the largest owner of Corton Charlemagne, has ideally located plots on the hill of Corton.  The sheer extensiveness of their holdings means that even in “difficult” years Latour’s Corton Charlemagne is top-notch because they limit production by selecting only the very best grapes. Read more

Louis Latour, Pouilly-Vinzelles (Burgundy, France) “En Paradis” 2012

($22): The attention wines from small growers receive from the press, sommeliers and retailers can make us overlook wines from even the best négociants.  That’s always a mistake and this wine is just another case in point.  Maison Louis Latour, a top-notch Beaune-based négociant, owns no land in Pouilly-Vinzelles, an appellation neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé. Read more