Category Archives: Reviews

Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005

($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region.  Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more

Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002

($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World.  But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance.  … Read more

Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Eight Songs” 2004

($55, Hess Imports): A deep, dark Shiraz with plenty of power, Lehmann’s Eight Songs bottling has supple tannins.  The 14.5% alcohol is not out of place here because of the ripe, concentrated black fruit elements.  Emphasizing the juicy plummy side of Shiraz rather than the spice, this wine has remarkable smoothness and will appeal to those who value intensity over elegance.… Read more

Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Gewurztraminer 2006

($28): The problem for consumers with Gewurztraminer, like Riesling, is the unknown and unpredictable level of sweetness.  Dr. Frank’s is a gorgeous example of dry Gewurztraminer that highlights the spice of the varietal.  Its prominent perfume suggests sweetness, but instead the wine delivers nuances of lychee nuts and spiced pears and finishes clean and dry. … Read more

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

($55, Bluewater Wine Company): Howard Park’s most upscale bottling of Cabernet comes from a broad geographic area–Western Australia–as opposed to the smaller Margaret River or Great Southern appellation.  It reflects a desire to blend the best batches regardless of origin.  The combine the multifaceted character of Cabernet–cassis-like fruit and herbal, non-fruit flavors–harmoniously in this elegant and silky wine. … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial 1978

($60, Maisons, Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta retains a small portion of their Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva for extended barrel aging.  Bottled in 1998, this wine spent roughly 18 years–give or take a few months–in barrel.  But since the interior of the barrel develops a thick layer of rock hard tartrate crystals over the years, it’s more like aging in a giant bottle. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2005

($28): The comparison of this Cabernet with its stablemate–the Canoe Ridge Merlot–supports my prejudice that Cabernet usually makes more interesting wines.  Layered and complex, the tannins support ripe cassis and black cherry-like fruit.  Thankfully, not an ‘over-the-top’ blockbuster wine, it has exquisite balance while conveying plenty of flavor.… Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Dalmau Reserva” 2004

($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja.  Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva. … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2004

($26, Maison Marques and Domaines): Although mostly Tempranillo, this traditional–American oak aged–Rioja, has a little Garnacha and Manzuelo included in the blend, which I think helps account for the wine’s alluring complexity.  The producer purposely avoids the new trend in Rioja of more ripeness and new oak aging in this bottling (they have introduced another bottling to satisfy that side of the market), focusing in this case on harmony. … Read more

Marqués de Murrieta, Rioja (Spain) “Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva Especial” 2000

($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes.  A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years. … Read more

Alain Soutiran, Champagne (France) Brut NV

($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members.  Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. … Read more