Category Archives: Reviews

MacRostie Winery, Sonoma Coast (California) Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2013

($40): One of the reasons I admire MacRostie’s Chardonnays is that their single vineyard offerings are sufficiently different from each other to make separate bottlings actually meaningful. They are unique wines.  Contrast that approach with wineries whose “single vineyard” bottlings reflect a marketing strategy, not a difference in site.Read more

Villa Cerna, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013

($25): Cecchi, though one of Tuscany’s great producers, flies under the radar.  A family firm run currently by brothers Andrea and Cesare Cecchi, they produce a range of wines from estates in Tuscany and Umbria.  This one, a traditionally framed Chianti Classico made from a blend of Sangiovese and Colorino, exhibits the near magical combination of bright red cherry-like fruit and savory herbal qualities. Read more

Domaine Humbert Frères, Fixin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2014

($50, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s a sad commentary of wine pricing when a bottle of Burgundy from Fixin, one of the least prestigious villages in the Côtes de Nuits, costs fifty bucks.  But that’s life, and compared to many of the Pinot Noir coming out of California, it’s still a reasonable price for a wine made from that grape–especially this one. Read more

Castello Banfi, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio alle Mura” 2013

($32): Rosso di Montalcino can be an excellent introduction to the glories of Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy’s iconic wines.  Similar to Brunello, Rosso must be made entirely from Sangiovese.  This one, from Castello Banfi, a leading Brunello producer whose dedicated work in the 1980s helped catapult Brunello onto the world’s wine stage, is truly a “baby Brunello.” Read more

Domaine Faiveley, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2014

($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that — like so many domaines today — also has a négociant business.  This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards. Read more

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2014

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Need more evidence that the 2014 white Burgundies are terrific?  Here, at the bottom of the Burgundy prestige ladder — Bourgogne Blanc — is a great bargain.  Wines labeled Bourgogne Blanc can come from grapes — always Chardonnay — grown anywhere in Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. Read more

Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2012

($100): Hanzell, one of the pioneers in California with Pinot Noir, sometimes gets lost among the hoopla of the bolder wines made from that grape.  Hanzell’s Pinot Noir is a study in how a delicate wine can convey extraordinary excitement.  Savory elements are a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant fruitiness and by contrast, actually accentuate it. Read more

Tenuta di Salviano, Lago di Corbara DOV (Umbria, Italy) Turlo 2012

($14):  What a bargain!  This blend of Sangiovese (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Merlot has a charming rusticity amplified by uplifting Italian acidity.  The blend works since the Cabernet adds herbal qualities without  dominating.  The wine’s impressive density–without being heavy–makes it a perfect choice for hearty pasta dishes this winter.Read more

Castello di Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2012

($28): Castello di Volpaia consistently makes wonderful Chianti Classico.  This Riserva combines a good density of black cherry-like fruit and a lovely herbal earthy component.  A beefy wine, they’ve imbued it with power without sacrificing finesse or a graceful signature.  Despite its intensity, it’s still clearly identifiable as Chianti Classico because of the great Tuscan acidity and savory notes. Read more

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2013

($47): Anne-Claude Leflaive, the late famed Burgundy producer, and Christian Jacques, her husband, acquired Clau de Nell in 2008.  Similar to Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, the vineyards at Clau de Nell are farmed biodynamically.  People can — and do — argue whether biodynamic philosophy is hocus pocus or whether it is responsible for superior wines. Read more

Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2014

($20, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Craggy Range remains one of New Zealand’s top producers, producing a consistently stellar range of wines, including this Sauvignon Blanc.  The winery has always focused on single vineyard bottlings.  It produces two Sauvignon Blanc, this one and one from Avery vineyard in Marlborough on the country’s South Island. Read more