($34): 
Jeffrey Grosset describes his 2014 Springvale Riesling as a “soft rock” compared to the Polish Hill Riesling, which he characterizes as a “hard rock.” It’s an apt comparison. The Springvale Riesling is more floral and slightly richer, but retains the wonderful cutting dry edginess characteristic of Grosset’s wines. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2014
($49): 
Jeffrey Grosset makes an array of fabulous Rieslings. Despite the impression — erroneous, as it turns out — that Australia falls into the “warm weather” category for winemaking, the Clare Valley is home to exceptional Riesling. Jeffrey Grosset told me that they have such ideal conditions there for that grape that they have not needed to acidity the wines for the last 14 vintages since they transformed the vineyard to organic farming. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($48): Merry Edwards is one of my favorite California Pinot Noir producers. One of her many virtues is that she’s not trying to make red Burgundy. Her wines express the climate and warmth of California without being overly ripe or heavy. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2013
($63): Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith Pinot Noir is proportioned similarly to her Georganne bottling. At this stage the black fruit is more apparent with the savory notes playing in the background. It has the same suave texture, with juicy acidity and well-polished tannins. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2013
($60): In addition to consistently making a fabulous array of Pinot Noir, Merry Edwards is a genius with her single vineyard bottlings. She embraces the Burgundian magic of terroir: How the same grapes grown in different vineyards express themselves differently in the respective wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2013
($65): With a different profile than her other Pinots — more red than black fruit intermingled with the hard to describe “leafy” character — Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane shows the virtue of single vineyard bottlings. Though all of the hallmarks of Merry Edwards’ wines are there: Beautiful balance, well structured but not oppressive tannins, and freshness, the wine is still unique. … Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Maison L’Envoyé brings together Evening Land founder Mark Tarlov and the very talented Burgundy guru, Becky Wasserman (according to their promotional materials, which also tell us that the grapes come from growers’ vineyards in Beaune, the Hautes-Côtes, and even premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets).… Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Two Messengers” 2013
($30): Perhaps the “Two Messengers” tag reflects the collaboration between Burgundy’s Louis-Michael Liger-Belair and the Willamette Valley. Or perhaps it’s the combination of two complementary flavors — ripe fruit and savory nuances. Whatever the origin of the name, the wine is easy to recommend because it does bring together the Janus-like essence of Pinot Noir, with bright red fruit notes harmonized with earthy complexity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): Ponzi, one of the pioneers in the Oregon wine industry, continues to show that Pinot Noir is well-suited to Willamette’s climate and soil. Whereas their Tavola bottling focuses more on bright fruit, the Willamette Valley label has the near magical combination of smoky savory nuances to complement the dark fruit notes. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Oporto (Portugal) 10 Year-Old Tawny Porto NV
($31): 
Along with winter, at least as measured by the calendar, comes the Port season. A high-quality 10-year-old Tawny, such as this one from Noval, is a perfect way to start the season and end a meal. Tawnies are unfussy: Open the bottle, pour and enjoy, then re-cork and repeat the next day. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2014
($26): 
Though not terribly complex, it’s hard to find authentic Pinot Noir at this price, which is why anyone with an interest in this varietal should embrace this bottling. It delivers light, bright red cherry-like flavors enrobed by mild tannins, making it an excellent choice for current drinking. … Read more
Prá, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2014
($13): 
Soave, an underappreciated region in Italy, is home to wonderfully satisfying white wines when made by a top producer, such as Prá. Even this one, one of Prà’s basic bottlings, delivers good intensity offset by characteristic Italian verve. Round enough to sip on its own, it has sufficient structure to pair well with sushi.… Read more
Marie-Pierre Manciat, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Petites Bruyères 2012
($25, Langdon Shiverick Imports): This is another example of why Pouilly-Fuissé is such a popular appellation, home to Chardonnay-based stylish wines at an excellent price. Marie-Pierre took the reins from her father, Claude, in 2002 and, judging from this classy wine, she is a top producer in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais. In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus. The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) La Roche 2012
($41, Vineyard Brands): 
More and more producers in Beaujolais are treating the area, especially Moulin-à-Vent, like the rest of Burgundy — as it deserves to be in my mind. That is, they are making wine from individual vineyards and labeling them as such. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2012
($35): Although this is comprised of a blend similar to that of the 2005 Les Arums, the richness in the 2012 comes across as heavy. While it may be going through an awkward stage now, I doubt it will ever deliver the pleasure the 2005 provides.… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2010
($35): A lovely firm stony quality offsets the toasty richness. At this stage, the elements are not fully integrated and it lacks the elegance of the 2005.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2005
($40): 
A rich wine, no doubt a result of the vintage and the inclusion of Muscadelle and a healthy amount of Sauvignon Gris in the blend. Creamy and glossy, it has developed nicely after a decade, retaining a surprising vigor.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2013
($34): There’s magic in this wine. Fresh and precise, it conveys citrus notes and engaging bit of spice. It maintains plenty of richness, which is buttressed by freshness and vivacity. The pungency of Sauvignon Blanc is more apparent here since the proportion of that variety has been increased at the expense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2014
($35): 
The 2014 vintage was the first that came entirely from Lagrange’s new plantings. Compared to the 2013, the 2014 is slightly more intense without losing any elegance or precision. It conveys a marvelous combination of floral notes, grapefruit rind-like punch and even a hint of white pepper. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): Let’s hope that this example of lighter, fresher and more vibrant Chardonnay from California is truly here to stay. There’s still plenty of richness, but the overall impression is lightness and vivacity. The winery attributes the character of this stylish Chardonnay to their vineyard’s location near the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. … Read more
Dominus Estate, Napa Valley (California) 2011
($150): 
Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982. The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot. Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Quinta dos Murças, Douro (Portugal) “Assobio” 2012
($14, Aidil Wines and Liquors): This wine shows precisely why blended reds from Portugal will be taking the market by storm in the coming years. A big, chunky red, with round, mild softish tannins, it’s similar in size to Malbec, but with far more complexity and interest. … Read more
Quinta dos Murças, (Portugal) Reserva 2010
($36, Aidil Wines and Liquors): 
The Assobio and Reserva are my first experience with this producer. They won’t be my last. Though more than twice the price of their Assobio, the Reserva from Quinta dos Murças is worth it. It combines ripe — but not sweet — fruit with herbal nuances and a delectable earthiness. … Read more
Babich, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2013
($18): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand, though famous for its unique and electrifying style of Sauvignon Blanc, is not a one-trick pony, as this Pinot Noir clearly shows. A lighter style of Pinot Noir, it delivers a delightful combination of red fruit, savory notes and spice. … Read more
Amisfield, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2012
($39): 
Central Otago, an area on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is making a name for itself as a place for stylish Pinot Noir. Despite its more southerly locale (which should be cooler in the Southern Hemisphere), the Pinot Noirs from Central Otago are riper and more powerful than those for other areas of New Zealand, such as Marlborough and Martinborough because the area is more inland with fewer maritime influences. … Read more
Agricola Querciabella, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Camartina” 2010
($140): 
Founded only in 1974, Querciabella has leapt to the top tier of Tuscan producers, making an exceptional range of both red and white wines. Camartina, a blend of roughly 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Sangiovese, is their flagship red. It’s always a majestic wine, but the 2010 is even more extraordinary than usual. … Read more
Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011
($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne. As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all. … Read more
Samuel Billaud, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2013
($41, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
The 2013 vintage lacks the reputation of the great ones, 2010 and 2012, in Chablis. But consumers should not overlook it. Talented producers, such as Samuel Billaud, make excellent wines even in what is often called “difficult” years. … Read more
Maison Lou Dumont, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($60, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
Koji Nakada, a former Japanese sommelier, created Maison Lou Dumont along with his wife in 2000. Though they now own a few acres of vineyards, most of their wine comes from the time-honored Burgundian tradition of being a négociant — buying grapes from growers, vinifying, aging and bottling the wine themselves. … Read more
Maison Lou Dumont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012
($29, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
A wonderful Bourgogne Rouge, this wine demonstrates the appeal of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, combining the fruitiness of the variety with the savory character that must come from the locale. Its impact belies its delicacy. A charming rusticity makes it an excellent choice for a roast chicken with an aromatic mushroom sauce. … Read more
Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006
($80): 
Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times. Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.) … Read more
Bisol, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) “Crede” NV
($25, Vias Imports): Prosecco is all the rage these days and consumers can find them at for $10 a bottle. So why pay more for Bisol’s? Because it is a cut above most of them delivering firmness combined with a flowery aspect. … Read more
Château Magdelaine, St. Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($102): Château Magdelaine, one of only two properties in St. Emilion owned by the Pomerol-focused Moueix family, has always been one of my favorites from that appellation. The 2010 is particularly appealing with a glorious and impeccably balanced mixture of floral, fruity and mineral components wrapped in fine firm tannins. … Read more
Murphy-Goode, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($26): 
This is the style of Cabernet Sauvignon that made California famous for that variety. It’s balanced and discreet, with haunting herbal influences that complement the ripe fruit flavors. Not overdone, over extracted or over oaked, the multifaceted flavors of Cabernet come through. … Read more
Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sur le Sentier du Clou 2013
($58): 
Domaine Marc Colin, now run by his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline, is a star producer in Burgundy, in general and in St. Aubin, in particular. The domaine produces eight different–and distinct–premier crus from St. Aubin, a village that is slightly off the beaten track but lies adjacent to Chassagne Montrachet. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2013
($24, Louis Latour USA): 
Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one. Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé. With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (California) “L’Ermitage” 2006
($46): 
Roederer Estate is my favorite California sparkling wine producer. Their quality can be traced to the philosophy of the Roederer Champagne house — the mother ship — and their ownership in Anderson Valley of sufficient vineyards to supply their needs. … Read more
Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “Malleous” 2011
($45, Moro Brothers): Moro’s 2011 Ribera del Duero is impressive because of its suaveness despite its size. Focusing more on mineraly or savory flavors than fruity ones, it has an attractive firmness without being hard. Some might complain about the amount of oak flavors showing at this stage, but they convey an alluring creaminess. … Read more
Bodegas Sepa 21, Castilla y León (Spain) “Hito” 2014
($16): Full disclosure: I gave this wine extra points for value, because it would be hard to do better at the price. It delivers a marvelous combination of black cherry-like fruitiness — not too much — and a slate-like minerality. The winemaking team has resisted the temptation to over extract the flavors and tannins or mask them with oak. … Read more
Frescobaldi, Chianti Rufinà Reserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano” 2011
($19): The Rufinà subzone of Chianti, the vast area between Florence and Siena, is not as well known as the Chianti Classico subzone. Indeed, the name is often confused with Ruffino, a well-known Tuscan producer. The Rufinà zone is home to an array of top producers, including Frescobaldi, a name that is iconic in Italian wine. … Read more
Le Caniette, Rosso Piceno DOC (Marche, Italy) “Morellone” 2008
($36, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): A blend of Montepulciano (70%) and Sangiovese, Le Caniette’s Morellone has weight and convey an alluring dark cherry fruit quality. Nicely polished, it retails a hint of charming rusticity in the finish, which frankly, adds to its appeal. … Read more
Concha Y Toro, Alto Maipo (Chile) Puente Alto Vineyard “Don Melchor” 2011
($125): For decades, Don Melchor has traditionally been Chile’s emblematic wine. Despite competition from other top Chilean producers with their top Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, Don Melchor remains a Chilean icon. The 2011 shows why: Enticing, hard to define aromas capture your attention immediately. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2014
($15): Although the vast majority of Sauvignon Blanc coming from New Zealand is produced in the Marlborough regions, other areas of that country make excellent examples with slightly different character. This one, for example, from North Canterbury achieves a lovely balance by being a touch broader with fractionally less grassy pungency. … Read more
Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Te Kahu” 2011
($21, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): 
New Zealand is clearly known for their electrifying Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine shows that country has vinous diversity. From a Bordeaux blend — Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec — Craggy Range has produced a gorgeous wine. … Read more
Pierre Gonon, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($53, Kermit Lynch): 
Wow. You don’t normally expect this kind of power and finesse from a wine from St. Joseph. But some producers are now demonstrating that St. Joseph can be a locale for great wines. Though it’s a long narrow appellation on the west bank of the Rhône, a portion of it at its southern end sits directly across from Hermitage and indeed, the granite rock in which the vines are planted is identical to the soil across the river. … Read more
Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines. This is one them. Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins.… Read more
Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($24, Vintus Wines): Guigal is one of, if not the, star producer in the Rhône Valley. Their wines, especially their single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turgue, which now command hundreds of dollars upon release, have shown the world the grandeur and finesse of Rhône wines. … Read more
Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013
($20, T. Edward Wines): Yes, you read that correctly — white Beaujolais. Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation. And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy.… Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Grand Cru La Grande Rue (Burgundy, France) 2011
($387, Jeanne Marie de Champs Selection): 
La Grande Rue, squeezed between La Tache on one side and La Romanée, Romanée Conti and Romanée St Vivant on the other, is the least renown (and hence, the least expensive) of the famed Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanée. … Read more