Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine Faiveley, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2014

($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that — like so many domaines today — also has a négociant business.  This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards. Read more

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2014

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Need more evidence that the 2014 white Burgundies are terrific?  Here, at the bottom of the Burgundy prestige ladder — Bourgogne Blanc — is a great bargain.  Wines labeled Bourgogne Blanc can come from grapes — always Chardonnay — grown anywhere in Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. Read more

Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2012

($100): Hanzell, one of the pioneers in California with Pinot Noir, sometimes gets lost among the hoopla of the bolder wines made from that grape.  Hanzell’s Pinot Noir is a study in how a delicate wine can convey extraordinary excitement.  Savory elements are a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant fruitiness and by contrast, actually accentuate it. Read more

Tenuta di Salviano, Lago di Corbara DOV (Umbria, Italy) Turlo 2012

($14):  What a bargain!  This blend of Sangiovese (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Merlot has a charming rusticity amplified by uplifting Italian acidity.  The blend works since the Cabernet adds herbal qualities without  dominating.  The wine’s impressive density–without being heavy–makes it a perfect choice for hearty pasta dishes this winter.Read more

Castello di Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2012

($28): Castello di Volpaia consistently makes wonderful Chianti Classico.  This Riserva combines a good density of black cherry-like fruit and a lovely herbal earthy component.  A beefy wine, they’ve imbued it with power without sacrificing finesse or a graceful signature.  Despite its intensity, it’s still clearly identifiable as Chianti Classico because of the great Tuscan acidity and savory notes. Read more

Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2013

($47): Anne-Claude Leflaive, the late famed Burgundy producer, and Christian Jacques, her husband, acquired Clau de Nell in 2008.  Similar to Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, the vineyards at Clau de Nell are farmed biodynamically.  People can — and do — argue whether biodynamic philosophy is hocus pocus or whether it is responsible for superior wines. Read more

Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2014

($20, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Craggy Range remains one of New Zealand’s top producers, producing a consistently stellar range of wines, including this Sauvignon Blanc.  The winery has always focused on single vineyard bottlings.  It produces two Sauvignon Blanc, this one and one from Avery vineyard in Marlborough on the country’s South Island. Read more

COS, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico (Sicily, Italy) “Delle Fontane” 2010

($60): COS (the name comes from the initials of the three founders’ last names: Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano) is one of Sicily’s best and most innovative producers.  Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red wine made from Frappato and Nero d’Avola, two grapes unique to Sicily, is that island’s only wine awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest ranking, by the Italian government. Read more

Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014

($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component.  As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers. Read more

Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013

($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis.  This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones — 2012 and 2014.  A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest. Read more

Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): As expected, Billaud-Simon’s 2014 Chablis has more flint and less fruit than its 2014 Petit Chablis (also reviewed this week).  My advice is to buy a bottle of each and taste them side-by-side.  Re-corked and stored in a cold refrigerator, they will remain fresh for a few days — longer than you might think — so you can repeat the experiment nightly, at least for a while.Read more

Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2012

($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Faiveley, though based in Nuits-St. Georges in the heart of the Côte d’Or, has always had a strong presence in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise.  Indeed, they own the entire Clos des Myglands, a Premier Cru vineyard, making it a monopole, a rarity in Burgundy where vineyard ownership is usually divided among many growers.Read more

Maison Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2013

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers.  And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. Read more

Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Vivens” 2009

($38): I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us.  Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. Read more

Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) “Number 1” 2013

($27): Macari, a top winery on Long Island, doesn’t rest on its laurels.  It, like many cutting edge wineries, is using large oval tanks made of concrete (“concrete eggs”) for fermentation.  The idea is that the porosity of these concrete eggs lies somewhere between stainless steel and wood and imparts finesse to the wine without wood flavors. Read more

Monte Bernardi, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Sa’Etta 2011

($41, T. Edward Wines): Some Tuscan producers refer to their wines made exclusively from Sangiovese grown in the Chianti Classico region as a Super Tuscan wine.  Others, such as Monte Bernardi, prefer to label theirs as Chianti Classico Riserva.  This wine shows that Chianti Classico can have all of the appeal and pizzazz of the so-called Super Tuscans. Read more

Beronia, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2006

($29, San Francisco Wine Exchange): Full disclosure, this wine gets additional points for value. I would run to buy it because wines of this quality at this price will disappear rapidly.  Another fabulous bargain from Beronia, a Rioja producer whose well-priced wines rarely fail to thrill, it’s a traditional blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano and Mazuelo.Read more

Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012

($30, Wilson Daniels): Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais.  The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. Read more