($100, Cru Artisan): I can see the rolling eyes. A hundred bucks for an unknown wine from, where? Sicily? Yes. I can’t pretend to know how people should spend their money on wine. But what I can tell you is that this is a special wine, delivering the ethereal Burgundian combination of flavor without weight. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Olivier Leflaive, Rully Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cloux 2014
($30, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage are stunning — the best since the grand 2010 vintage. Here’s just another example. The white wines from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise can be very appealing because they convey an underlying stoniness. … Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2014
($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that — like so many domaines today — also has a négociant business. This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Need more evidence that the 2014 white Burgundies are terrific? Here, at the bottom of the Burgundy prestige ladder — Bourgogne Blanc — is a great bargain. Wines labeled Bourgogne Blanc can come from grapes — always Chardonnay — grown anywhere in Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) “La Croix Blanche” 2014
($71, Jeanne Marie des Champs Selection): There could be a more reliable producer of Pommard than Domaine Parent, but I doubt it. If you want to experience the wines of this famed Burgundian village, Parent is the place to start. Their 2014s are stunning — a term reserved more for the whites of that vintage than for the reds. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Grandes Vignes” 2013
($30, Jeanne Maris de Champs Selection): Marsannay, an obscure appellation among the rarified sites in Côte de Nuits, is home to incredible values for Burgundy. I know “incredible value for Burgundy” is an oxymoron, which is why consumers should remember the name Marsannay, a tiny village, which is practically a suburb of Dijon. … Read more
Emiliana, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Signos de Origen “La Vinilla” 2014
($30): Emiliana is Chile’s leading producer employing organic and biodynamic methods. The wine is so appealing, it’s worth unraveling the label. Signos de Origen is one of Emiliana’s lines of wines that highlight the origin of the grapes — in this case from a sector of the Casablanca Valley known as La Vinilla. … Read more
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cuvee 20 NV
($35): Ever since J Vineyards produced its first sparkling wine, it was clear that it was serious about the category. Extremely impressive, this cuvée is as distinctive as the label — J Vineyards’ stylish yellow J. The overall impression is that you are drinking a creamy green apple-like custard. … Read more
Hanzell Vineyards, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County) Pinot Noir 2012
($100): Hanzell, one of the pioneers in California with Pinot Noir, sometimes gets lost among the hoopla of the bolder wines made from that grape. Hanzell’s Pinot Noir is a study in how a delicate wine can convey extraordinary excitement. Savory elements are a wonderful counterpoint to the elegant fruitiness and by contrast, actually accentuate it. … Read more
Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Italy) Palazzo della Torre 2011
($18): Allegrini, a leading Veneto producer, has adapted Amarone-like vinification to this wine, a blend of mostly Corvina and Rondinella, the grapes commonly used for Valpolicella. A small proportion of grapes are dried and added to the fresh wine the following fall, which starts another fermentation, which adds extra oomph to the wine. … Read more
Tenuta di Salviano, Lago di Corbara DOV (Umbria, Italy) Turlo 2012
($14): What a bargain! This blend of Sangiovese (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Merlot has a charming rusticity amplified by uplifting Italian acidity. The blend works since the Cabernet adds herbal qualities without dominating. The wine’s impressive density–without being heavy–makes it a perfect choice for hearty pasta dishes this winter.… Read more
Tenuta San Guido, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Guidalberto 2013
($45): Tenuta San Guido, the producer of Sassicaia, first introduced Guidalberto in 2000. Mistakenly thought by many to be a “second” wine of Sassicaia because all of the grapes come from Tenuta San Guido’s vineyards, it most certainly is not. The blend of grapes is entirely different. … Read more
Castello di Volpaia, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2012
($28): Castello di Volpaia consistently makes wonderful Chianti Classico. This Riserva combines a good density of black cherry-like fruit and a lovely herbal earthy component. A beefy wine, they’ve imbued it with power without sacrificing finesse or a graceful signature. Despite its intensity, it’s still clearly identifiable as Chianti Classico because of the great Tuscan acidity and savory notes. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nadri, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($54): Tenute Silvio Nardi has vineyards in the northwest and southeast section of the Brunello di Montalcino zone. In addition to their two outstanding single-vineyard wines, Poggio Doria and Manachiara, that they produce from those respective zones, they blend grapes to this fine, easy-to-recommend Brunello. … Read more
Masseria San Magno, Castel del Monte (Puglia, Italy) Nero di Troia 2011
($27): Puglia’s Nero di Troia grape is a hidden gem. Another ancient export from Greece, Nero di Troia (Black from Troy) delivers a winsome combination of fruit and earth when handled correctly, as in this case. Masseria San Magno’s has an enticing, gamey nuance and a vivacity that balances its black-fruit footprint. … Read more
Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2013
($47): Anne-Claude Leflaive, the late famed Burgundy producer, and Christian Jacques, her husband, acquired Clau de Nell in 2008. Similar to Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, the vineyards at Clau de Nell are farmed biodynamically. People can — and do — argue whether biodynamic philosophy is hocus pocus or whether it is responsible for superior wines. … Read more
Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2013
($28): It gets more and more difficult to find affordable Burgundy. One needs to venture outside of the major villages of the Côte d’Or, or as in this case, to Mercury, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. Here the fruity side of Pinot Noir takes on a lovely stony austerity — a complete contrast to New World wine made from the variety. … Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2014
($20, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Craggy Range remains one of New Zealand’s top producers, producing a consistently stellar range of wines, including this Sauvignon Blanc. The winery has always focused on single vineyard bottlings. It produces two Sauvignon Blanc, this one and one from Avery vineyard in Marlborough on the country’s South Island. … Read more
Nobilo, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc “Icon” 2014
($18): New Zealand continues to be the go-to country for outstanding Sauvignon Blanc at reasonable prices, such as this one from Nobilo. Nobilo’s 2014 Icon provides pungency without screaming. It’s deep with hints of tropical fruit flavors and long with acidity that electrifies without overwhelming, which means it’s balanced. … Read more
COS, DOC Sicilia (Italy) “Pithos” 2013
($34): COS, one of the top producers in Sicily, works magic with Nero d’Avola and Frappato, two of the island’s indigenous red grapes. Their Pithos, a equal blend of the two grapes, is a firm, but not hard, wine that delivers lovely combination of dark cherry notes and savory earthy ones. … Read more
COS, Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico (Sicily, Italy) “Delle Fontane” 2010
($60): COS (the name comes from the initials of the three founders’ last names: Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano) is one of Sicily’s best and most innovative producers. Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a red wine made from Frappato and Nero d’Avola, two grapes unique to Sicily, is that island’s only wine awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest ranking, by the Italian government. … Read more
Gardet, Champagne (France) Blanc de Noirs Brut Premier Cru NV
($45): Those who prefer powerful Champagnes should search for Gardet’s Blanc de Noirs. Made from a blend of red grapes — Pinot Noir (60%) and Pinot Meunier — grown in the premier cru village of Hautvillers, this is a powerhouse coupled with uncommon elegance. … Read more
Rolland & Galarreta, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2014
($22): Michel Rolland, owner of Château Bon Pasteur in Pomerol and consulting wine maker to scores of properties around the world, has had an enormous impact changing the style of wine. His stylistic imprint is most apparent in the reds, making them riper and bolder. … Read more
Rolland & Galarreta, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2011
($24): This masterful blend of Merlot and Tempranillo should walk off the shelves. It’s a big muscular and meaty combination but with glossy tannins usually associated with far more expensive wines. Powerful and simultaneously elegant, it marries dark fruit and savory elements.… Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Manachiara 2010
($97, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): Tenute Silvio Nardi, now run by his daughter, Emilia Nardi, remains of the Brunello’s top producers. They have vineyards in both the northwest and southeast portions of the Montalcino zone, which produces grapes of different styles because of the difference in soil and climate in each of the areas. … Read more
Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Moines” Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($62): There are only a hand full of Champagne houses that produce a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs, that revered category of Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay. I, for one, am glad that Besserat de Bellefon makes one — it is stunning. … Read more
Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component. As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013
($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis. This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones — 2012 and 2014. A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest. … Read more
Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): As expected, Billaud-Simon’s 2014 Chablis has more flint and less fruit than its 2014 Petit Chablis (also reviewed this week). My advice is to buy a bottle of each and taste them side-by-side. Re-corked and stored in a cold refrigerator, they will remain fresh for a few days — longer than you might think — so you can repeat the experiment nightly, at least for a while.… Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2012
($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Faiveley, though based in Nuits-St. Georges in the heart of the Côte d’Or, has always had a strong presence in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise. Indeed, they own the entire Clos des Myglands, a Premier Cru vineyard, making it a monopole, a rarity in Burgundy where vineyard ownership is usually divided among many growers.… Read more
Maison Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2013
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers. And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. … Read more
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Vivens” 2009
($38): I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us. Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. … Read more
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) “Number 1” 2013
($27): Macari, a top winery on Long Island, doesn’t rest on its laurels. It, like many cutting edge wineries, is using large oval tanks made of concrete (“concrete eggs”) for fermentation. The idea is that the porosity of these concrete eggs lies somewhere between stainless steel and wood and imparts finesse to the wine without wood flavors. … Read more
Ryan William Vineyard, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2012
($22, T. Edward Wines): This Riesling shows why the Finger Lakes region is rapidly becoming known as THE place for Riesling in America. Ryan William Vineyard’s 2012 delivers a zesty cutting edge seasoned with the barest hint of spice. All the components come together seamlessly, adding to its appeal. … Read more
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Cabernet Franc 2010
($34): Long Island wines do not command the respect they deserve. Though many producers there believe Merlot to be the island’s signature grape, my vote goes to Cabernet Franc and Macari’s 2010 shows why. To use a highly technical word, it’s yummy. … Read more
Monte Bernardi, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Sa’Etta 2011
($41, T. Edward Wines): Some Tuscan producers refer to their wines made exclusively from Sangiovese grown in the Chianti Classico region as a Super Tuscan wine. Others, such as Monte Bernardi, prefer to label theirs as Chianti Classico Riserva. This wine shows that Chianti Classico can have all of the appeal and pizzazz of the so-called Super Tuscans. … Read more
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Fossati 2008
($68, T. Edward Wines): As of 2008 Borgogno decided to bottle wines from specific vineyards separately. Prior to that time, they blended the wines and labeled them as Barolo or Barolo Riserva. Fossati, a cru or vineyard (as opposed to a proprietary name), is located in the village of Barolo itself. … Read more
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2008
($134, T. Edward Wines): Wines from Cannubi, one of the very best vineyards in the Barolo zone, are capable of an amazing combination of grace and power. While some growers may attempt to capitalize on the name Cannubi to sell their wines, others aim to express the grandeur the vineyard has to offer. … Read more
Rio Maggio, Offida Pecorino DO (Marche, Italy) Pecorino “Colle Monteverde” 2014
($18, T. Edward Wines): Pecorino is also a grape, not only a cheese. And one that is capable of producing lively white wines with refreshing vibrancy, such as this one. This light wine delivers a precise cutting edge without being aggressive. … Read more
Chene Bleu, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Héloise” 2009
($110, Wilson Daniels): Nicole Rolet and her team at Chene Bleu are shooting for the stars with their wines, aiming to be one of the Rhone’s top producers. And they are well on their way. This is a property to watch. … Read more
Domaine Sainte Croix, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Le Fournas” 2012
($16, T. Edward Wines): Corbières, one of the many appellations in the Languedoc, offers sturdy reds, such as this one, ideal for wintery fare. Dark fruit flavors dominate in this blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, but do not overpower, and harmonize nicely with herbal notes. … Read more
Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($46, Wilson Daniels): Domaine Leflaive, arguably Burgundy’s finest white wine estate, made a foray into the Mâconnais in 2004, buying 23 acres of Chardonnay vineyards and producing an eye-popping white wine from that region. They have been extremely happy with the project, have expanded it and currently have about 75 acres there. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2010
($19, San Francisco Wine Exchange): I continue to be amazed — year after year — by the value Rioja delivers. It’s hard to imagine a more delightful wine selling for less than $20. It’s a balance of sweet, yet not heavy, fruit coupled with savory elements. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2006
($29, San Francisco Wine Exchange): Full disclosure, this wine gets additional points for value. I would run to buy it because wines of this quality at this price will disappear rapidly. Another fabulous bargain from Beronia, a Rioja producer whose well-priced wines rarely fail to thrill, it’s a traditional blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano and Mazuelo.… Read more
Viña Altamar, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2013
($14, Hammeken Cellars): It is rare to find a wine from Ribera de Duero, one of Spain’s top wine areas, at this price. Especially one of this quality. Stony elements buttress the lovely rich, but not jammy, dark fruit flavors. Far more sophisticated than the price suggests, it has polished tannins and wonderful structure. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013
($40): Louis Baisinbert is a name to watch. He is a small négociant — some would call him a “micro-negociant” — buying no more than a half dozen barrels of an individual wine from a single producer. He supplies the barrels, never new oak, and performs the elevage, which is literally raising (finishing) the wine. … Read more
Domaine Vocoret, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Blanchot 2012
($71): Chablis remains an underappreciated, and hence, under priced source of unique white Burgundy. While not inexpensive, it is practically impossible to fine Côte d’Or Grand Cru at this price. And this wine is truly worthy of the Grand Cru moniker. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2013
($40): Baisinbert made just two barrels of this charming red. Wonderfully fragrant, it delivers bright raspberry-like fruitiness without a trace of heaviness or jamminess. He has delivered a wine with good body and concentration, avoiding the leanness often found in wines from Givry. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2013
($66, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most recognizable and prestigious villages in Burgundy, are always pricey. Négociants tell me that it is increasingly difficult for them to find good sources as more and more growers bottle their own production instead of selling it in bulk to négociants.… Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012
($30, Wilson Daniels): Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. … Read more