($32): Migration, initially the second label of Decoy, Duckhorn’s Pinot Noir-focused outpost in Anderson Valley, now has its own home in Sonoma County.  It’s a first wine in its own right.  And though the focus was — and is — on Pinot Noir, it turns out, at least judging from this wine, they do a fine job with Chardonnay. … Read more

($31): When it comes to winemaking, Grgich Hills Estate can do no wrong.  Of course it excels with Chardonnay.  Miljenko “Mike” Grgich made the Chardonnay when he was at Chateau Montelena that instantly put California wine on the map when judges — French no less — placed it first, besting prestigious white Burgundies in a blind tasting, the so-called Judgment of Paris, forty years ago. … Read more

($28): Le Cigare Blanc, the white counterpart of Bonny Doon’s Cigare Volant, which emulates the red wine of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is a typical Rhône blend: Roussanne (55%), Grenache Blanc (26%), and Picpoul Blanc.  It’s a lovely interpretation of a white Rhône with stone fruit richness and sufficient balancing acidity to keep it interesting, but not so much as to make your mouth pucker. … Read more

($69): This wine shows the beauty of Napa Valley Cabernet.  Not bigger, but just a more muscular style of Cabernet Sauvignon than is the norm, the 2013 Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon has extraordinary finesse.  It’s truly an iron fist in a velvet glove. … Read more

($55): Jordan consistently makes a beautifully graceful Cabernet Sauvignon.  The 2012 is even more so, full-flavored, yet elegant with a suave texture.  Although a mouth-filling wine, it is not heavy.  It impresses with its elegance and complexity, not brute force.  Layers of red and black fruit flavors intermingle with herbal earthy notes. … Read more

($68): One of the things I love about Migration’s Pinot Noirs is that their vineyard designation is not a marketing tool, but rather reflects where the grapes are grown.  Take this one from the Bien Nacido Vineyard.  Riper fruit flavors dominate with fewer savory elements compared to their 2013 Dutton Ranch bottling (previously reviewed). … Read more

($60): One of the things I love about Patz & Hall is that they specialize in making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from individual vineyards, highlighting the differences among them.  With this approach, they’ve shown that the French don’t have a monopoly on terroir. … Read more

($120): In 1997 when Duckhorn, a top Napa Valley producer that focuses on Merlot, embarked on producing Pinot Noir, they wisely sought vineyards in an area more conducive to that variety.  Broadly speaking, Merlot does best in a warm climate, whereas Pinot Noir thrives in cooler climes. … Read more

($27): Sangiacomo Vineyard is one of the most acclaimed growing sites in California.  Located in the Carneros region, where cooling air from the Pacific Ocean flows in via the San Francisco and San Pablo Bays, it is an ideal locale for edgy Chardonnay. … Read more

($18): Dry Creek Vineyard consistently makes an array of easy-to-recommend fine wines.  This Sauvignon Blanc is one of them.  The winemaking team incorporated a touch of Sauvignon Gris and Sauvignon Musqué, two “relatives” of Sauvignon Blanc, into the blend.  Those varieties add a bit of depth and weight that balances the grassiness and edginess of Sauvignon Blanc.  … Read more

($25): This could be the best-value California Pinot Noir on the market.  Full disclosure:  I’ve not tasted them all, but I’m waiting to find a better one at the price.  It has the alluring ying-yang-like savory-fruity combination.  The emphasis is on the savory earthy nuances that Pinot Noir can transmit when it’s not overdone. … Read more

($40): A hint of savory notes offset the bright cherry-like flavors in this generous wine.  A lush suave texture is engaging and makes it ideal for current consumption.  Those who prefer a hint of ripe fruit bordering on sweetness in the finish will embrace this Pinot Noir. … Read more

($23): Though a fruit-focused Pinot Noir, it delivers a hint of leafy flavors that keeps it in balance.  Mild tannins lend support without intruding on its plush texture so it would be a good choice for drinking this summer.  It finishes bright, not sweet, which is another plus. … Read more

($55): Albatross Ridge, a producer that has, sadly, been under my radar, hit the bull’s eye with this Pinot Noir.  It’s a near magical combination of smoky savory notes with ripe black fruit nuances.  Its “not just fruit” character makes it seductive and charming — and keeps you coming back for more. … Read more

($55): Goldeneye, the Pinot Noir-focused winery in Anderson Valley, was founded in 1997 by the Napa-based Duckhorn winery.  Their 15+ years of experience there with Pinot Noir shows in their wines, even this one, which is a blend from more than one site in the Anderson Valley. … Read more

($13): Even though the grape variety is Chenin Blanc, Dry Creek Vineyard labels it as Dry Chenin Blanc for emphasis, which is appropriate.  Fresh and vibrant, it’s a blissful harmony of fruit and zing.  Think sushi or poolside.  Buy it by the case for the summer.… Read more

($50): This big and bold Napa Cabernet is surprisingly harmonious and not over the top.  Full-bodied and robust, it remains balanced with a texture that alternates between chewy and suave.  There’s a captivating savoriness and a lush, but not sweet, finish. … Read more

($32): With more creaminess than bite, Merry Edwards’s expression of Sauvignon Blanc is reminiscent of white Bordeaux rather than Sancerre.  Long and refined, it’s a seductive wine with a glossy texture accented by a touch of electricity that reminds you it is, in fact, Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more

($29): Who knew that Duckhorn, well known for their brilliant red wines, made such an invigorating Sauvignon Blanc.  Tension filled, it combines a pleasing bite with a hint of creaminess.  A great ying and yang wine.
92 Michael Apstein May 17, 2016… Read more

($43): Grgich Hills Estate consistently produces superb Chardonnay.  And even the release of their super-duper Commemorative bottling has not detracted from their “regular” bottling.  The team at Grgich Hills has managed to combine ripeness with enormous energy in this Chardonnay.  It’s balanced, long and refined, with a hint of spice in the finish. … Read more

($42): This straightforward Pinot Noir is bright and full of cherry-like fruit.  A hint of savory herbal notes adds complexity.  Mild tannins allow for immediate consumption.  It would be a good choice for grilled salmon.
88 Michael Apstein May 17, 2016… Read more