($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines. This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced. It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Sarmassa 2012
($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba. … Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Spain) “Hacienda di Arínzano” 2011
($19, Stoli Group USA): The Vinos de Pago category sits at the pinnacle of Spain’s official wine hierarchy. A Pago is basically a single estate that has its on Denominacion Oregin. Arínzano was northern Spain’s first estate to be awarded Vinos de Pago status. … Read more
Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano 2016
($26): Prosecco has become ubiquitous, which, of course, has made it a marketing challenge for the top producers, such as Nino Franco. Why should a consumer pay $26 for Prosecco when plenty sell for less than half that? For this one, the answer is easy: It’s a far, far superior wine. … Read more
Gulfi, Sicilia Rosso IGT (Sicily, Italy) “Nero Bufaleffj” 2011
($45): Gulfi, the first estate in Sicily to give focus on site specificity to Nero d’Avola, continues to making stunning examples of wine from that grape. This one, from their Bufaleffj vineyard, is eye-opening for its balance and complexity, delivering a ying/yang of black fruit and savory flavors offset perfectly by a hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Cantina Mascarello Bartolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012
($140, The Rare Wine Company): Although single vineyard bottlings are all the rage in Barolo and elsewhere, Maria Teresa Mascarello continues her father’s time-honored philosophy that Barolo is best when it’s a blend of vineyards. Mascarello’s Barolo is a blend of grapes from four vineyards they own, three in the village of Barolo itself, Rué, Cannubi, St.… Read more
Tiberio, Colline Pescaresi IGP (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2016
($21, The Sorting Table): Pecorino, the wine, not the cheese, is currently “hot,” which is surprising considering it was practically extinct as a grape variety as recently as two decades ago. Now there are probably 60 producers on the bandwagon. Although I’ve not sampled them all, it’s hard to imagine finding one better than Tiberio’s. … Read more
Cadaretta, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Southwind Vineyard 2014
($75): This single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon — which does contain 5 percent each of Malbec and Petit Verdot — is considerably more powerful and youthful than Cadaretta’s “Springboard” bottling. At this stage, it’s quite closed with a combination of deep black fruit and mineral-like flavors peeking out. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Springboard” 2014
($50): Cadaretta’s website describes Springboard as their “reserve-quality Bordeaux-varietal blend made from the top barrels of the vintage.” Despite the large proportion of heavy hitting Bordeaux varieties — Malbec and Petit Verdot comprise almost 1/5th of the blend — the wine does not hit you over the head. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2014
($110): Distinctly different from Nickel & Nickel’s other single vineyard Cabernet bottlings, the one from State Ranch appears far more youthful at this stage with its tannic structure showing immediately. It has similar black fruit mixed with nuances of black olives and other savory notes, finishing with a beautiful bit of bitterness in the finish. … Read more
Decoy, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($25): After extolling the virtues of a bevy of $100+ Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s time to return to earth. Ironically, under Duckhorn’s Decoy label, this wine is the real thing. It clearly demonstrates that you needn’t spend triple digits to find satisfying wine with real character. … Read more
MacRostie Winery and Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Wildcat Mountain” 2014
($56): The Sonoma Coast is the latest “hot” — more accurate to say, cool — place for Pinot Noir because of the dramatically cooler climate that its proximity to the Pacific Ocean offers. Less bold than many, MacRostie’s Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir still delivers ripe red fruit-like flavors accented with spice. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Stelling Vineyard 2014
($160): Nickel & Nickel’s Cabernet from the Martin Stelling vineyard is fascinatingly different from the one from the John C. Sullenger Vineyard. It conveys dark fruit with more minerals, bordering on a tarry element, rather than the floweriness of the Sullenger. … Read more
Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2014
($110): Nickel & Nickel and Far Niente overlap in ownership and philosophy, so it’s not surprising that they overlap in making spectacular wines. Nickel & Nickel focuses on making distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines from different vineyards in Napa Valley. Although their entire line-up is excellent, what is really impressive is how different the wines are despite similar wine making. … Read more
Far Niente, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($160): In a word, gorgeous. Ok, two words: Gorgeous and stunning. Sure it’s powerful. But for all its power, it has amazing elegance and gracefulness, which is why it’s so stunning and gorgeous. It has everything you’d want in Napa Valley Cabernet — dark fruit flavors, a hint of savory notes, plush tannins and a seemingly never ending finish. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
($40): This wonderfully refined mineraly Cabernet Sauvignon is a pleasure to drink now. I’m certain it will gain complexity — though it has plenty now — and nuance with age, but the winemaking team at Sequoia Grove has polished the tannins so they provide necessary structure without a trace of astringency or roughness. … Read more
Finca San Blas, Utiel-Requena DO (Valencia, Spain) “Lomalta” 2014
($14): The Denominación de Origen (DO) of Utiel-Requena in eastern Spain has traditionally been known for bulk wine from the prolific Bobal grape. Slowly, producers are changing the image. This robust red, a blend of Merlot, Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Syrah, has remarkably mild tannins, which makes it a good choice for hearty fare, even barbeque. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($26): Presqu’ile takes advantage of their location in the Santa Maria Valley, which is cooled by the influences of the Pacific Ocean, to focus on grapes that show their best in that kind of climate: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($35): As I said in my review of Presqu’ile’s Pinot Noir, you can’t go wrong with their wines. It’s worth repeating. The first sip of this Chardonnay awakens your palate with restrained richness balanced by an enlivening citrus character. With air, more flavors emerge, but it still retains its vibrating soul. … Read more
Patz & Hall, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch 2014
($44): Dutton Ranch, which consists of 1,100 acres of vineyards spread over the Russian River Valley that are owned or leased by the Dutton family, is a famous name in California wine. Lots of top name California producers buy grapes from Dutton, including Patz & Hall who has hit the mark with this 2014 Chardonnay.… Read more
Patz & Hall, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard 2014
($55): Patz & Hall have long been known for making single vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir by contracting with top growers for grapes from those vineyards. This one, from the Hudson Vineyard, which is wholly within the Napa Valley portion of Carneros, has lush generosity without being over the top or heavy. … Read more
Laurel Glen Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013
($75): Laurel Glen, a true pioneering producer in Sonoma County, currently flies under most everyone’s radar. Under Bettina Sichel’s leadership, that’s slowly changing. Planted in 1968 by Carmen Taylor, Chateau St. Jean purchased grapes for their famed Lauren Glen Cabernet in the 1970s. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Rice-Spivak Vineyard 2014
($75): Cobb’s Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir (13.3 percent) is more floral and opulent compared to their Emmaline Ann bottling at this stage, but still impeccably balanced. Again, the flavors dance across the palate, leaving you wondering how such intensity can be so light. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Emmaline Ann Vineyard 2014
($75): Ross Cobb has as much experience with Sonoma Coast vineyards as anybody, having worked at Williams Selyem, Flowers, and Hirsch, all notable Sonoma Coast producers. Ross, like Jadot’s legendary winemaker, Jacques Lardière who is currently making Jadot’s Oregon Pinot Noir, favors picking that grape earlier in the New World’s warmer vineyards (at least compared to Burgundy) to preserve secondary aromas and flavors that are essential to the character of the wine. … Read more
Cobb Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block Pommard 2014
($80): Cobb’s Coastlands Vineyard, “1906 Block Pommard” Pinot Noir is the “heavyweight” of this trio despite being the lowest in alcohol (12.5 percent), reminding us, yet again, that sometimes less is more with regard to ripeness, especially with this variety. The juicy Coastlands Vineyard displays more black fruit compared to the red fruit character of the Rice Spivak bottling. … Read more
Presqu’ile, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2015
($42): If you see a wine from Presqu’ile (pronounced “press-keel”) on a wine list or in your retailer’s shop, buy it. You’ll likely be very happy. Take this Pinot Noir, for example. The Santa Maria Valley is a superb locale for the so-called “cool climate” grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay because the valley runs East-West. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
($72): As usual and as expected, Grgich Hills’ current release Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding. I guess the question really is whether this producer can ever do anything wrong. Year after year, the team at Grgich Hills produces stunning, balanced wines from a slew of different varieties of grapes, even Zinfandel. … Read more
Raeburn, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($20): This is a wine that presents a problem for a wine critic. I personally do not care for the in-your-face character, which favors power over elegance. But it is well made and an excellent example of that style of Chardonnay, which I know many people adore. … Read more
Prà, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2016
($18): Prà, one of Soave’s top producers and one of those responsible for the region’s renaissance, makes several Soave. Their top wine is from a single vineyard, Montegrande and is a blend of Garganega (70%) and Trebbiano di Soave. This one, Otto, named after a border collie, is their basic Soave made entirely from Garganega and aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks. … Read more
Ruggeri, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Giustino B Extra Dry” 2015
($28): It seems as though everything with bubbles is now called Prosecco. And not just in the U.S. I’ve ordered Prosecco in Italy, have been poured a glass from a bottle labeled sparkling Soave and have had the sommelier insist that it was “Prosecco.” … Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($24): Wines from the Chianti Classico region, which, remember is a distinct and more prestigious subzone of the greater Chianti area, continue to thrill. This one from Viticcio, a blend of Sangiovese (90%) with equal amounts of Merlot and Syrah, is very appealing even now, though its balance suggests more complexity will evolve over the next five or so years. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Ben Rye” 2014
($30): Pantelleria, an island off the coast of Sicily that is closer to Africa than Rome, has the potential to produce wonderfully sweet wines. Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, consistently fulfills that potential with their Ben Rye, a wine made from the Muscat of Alessandria grape. … Read more
Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Perricone “Guarnaccio” 2014
($17): Conte Tasca d’Almerita’s Tenuta Regaleali, one of Sicily’s leading producers, has shown the world repeatedly that Sicily can produce superb wine. To their credit, they do not rest on their laurels. This wine, only their third vintage, is a good example of their broad thinking. … Read more
Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Blu” 2016
($15): Vermentino, Sardinia’s most planted grape variety, has become “hot.” Even the French are starting to use the Italian name instead of the French name, Rolle. Vermentino does best in a hot climate with proximity to the sea, which makes Sardinia a perfect locale. … Read more
G.D. Vajra, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Freisa “Kyè” 2013
($41): G.D. Vajra is one of Piedmont’s top producers. Their name on a label is a guarantee of quality. Freisa, on the other hand, is not so consistent. It is a close relative of Nebbiolo and, like that grape, it has a prominent tannic structure. … Read more
Sartarelli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) “Tralivio” 2015
($18): It’s easy to understand why Sartarelli, one of the region’s top producers, calls the wine Tralivio, which means around the olive trees, instead of using the tongue-twisting name of the DOC. Wines made from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are undergoing a renaissance as producers realize that the focus should be on quality over quantity. … Read more
Tiberio, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP (Abruzzo, Italy) 2016
($15): There are eight varieties of Trebbiano, according to Ian D’Agata, the world’s foremost authority on Italian grapes, which results in great confusion because they are certainly not all the same. This wine is made from Trebbiano Abruzzese, not to be confused with the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2015
($23): Cadaretta has consistently excelled with their SBS bottling, using the initials of the grapes to name this wine. A Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) and Semillon, it’s a balanced, harmonious wine. The addition of Semillon adds a lanolin-like texture and depth without eviscerating the pleasant pungency of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($40): I had no familiarity with Stewart Cellars until I tasted this Chardonnay. The winery is clearly now on my radar screen. It should be on yours. This is a show-stopping Chardonnay — not because of its power, but because of its stylish elegance. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Founded in only 2000, Stewart Cellars buys grapes from growers they respect. This Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Stanly Ranch Vineyard in Napa Valley. A judicious use of oak imparts a hint of creaminess that balances the bite of Sauvignon Blanc without eviscerating it.… Read more
Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Who knew that Freemark Abbey made excellent Sauvignon Blanc? Of course, they are an iconic producer of Cabernet Sauvignon and some incredibly lush sweet wines. It’s crisp and laser-like, with a snappy bite that is not aggressive. Plenty of body and depth balances its knife-like cutting edginess. … Read more
Shooting Star, Mendocino County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($14): Consumers looking for wines that over deliver for the price should embrace Jed Steele’s Shooting Star label. Steele, known for nuance rather than over the top opulence in his Chardonnay, maintains that style with this one. A hint of pineapple-like tropical fruit flavors are kept in check and balanced by wonderfully racy acidity. … Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Renowned California winemaker Jed Steele is behind the Shooting Star. Steele buys grapes and wines from others, blends, ages and bottles them under this label. His talents at blending shine in this well-priced Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a nicely balanced compromise combining the lively bite of Sauvignon Blanc with the barest hint of fleshiness, which tames the potentially aggressive nature of the grape. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Rosé 2016
($28): As regular WineReviewOnline readers know, I’d usually prefer a chilled light red wine to the vast majorities of innocuous rosé on the market. Here’s an exception — perhaps because it tastes like a light red because of a touch of tannin in finish.… Read more
Luce, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($110, Folio Wine Imports): Luce della Vite, usually referred to as “Luce,” initially was a joint venture of the Mondavi and Frescobaldi families but is now owned solely by Frescobaldi. A Super Tuscan blend of roughly equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot grown in the Montalcino area, it does not conform to Italian winemaking regulations and therefore carries the IGT designation. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2015
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): At first blush — no pun intended — you’d think this wine was a marketing genius, encompassing two very hot wine categories: Pinot Grigio and Rosé. But no, the pink — actually copper hue — of the wine comes from the light red color of the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Fleurie comes from two sites within the village. (Jadot has yet to make a single vineyard wine from Fleurie.) One site is at a higher elevation and cooler, which Cyril Chirouze, Château des Jacques’ winemaker, says provides grapes that impart elegance to the wine, while the other warmer site provides power. … Read more
Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($175, Folio Wine Imports): Axel Heinz, Ornellaia’s winemaker, described 2014 as a vintage that was “challenging for reds.” He continued, “One thing we can rely on in Bolgheri is summer — but not in 2014.” The weather in July and August was dreadful — cool and rainy — which meant that in many sites, even some of the very best ones, the grapes did not achieve full ripeness. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2015
($21, Palm Bay International): A harmonious blend of Nero d’Avola (60%) and Frappato, Planeta consistently makes an excellent example of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s sole DOCG wine. The 2015 delivers a mixture of lovely cherry-like and mineral flavors wrapped in mild finely polished tannins. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Moulin à Vent combines the best of Fleurie and Morgon. It’s remarkably fresh and approachable with juicy fruitiness and deep mineral-like flavors. You can almost taste the granite soil. It has less spice compared to the 2015 Château des Jacques Morgon, but silkier tannins. … Read more