($25): The 2014 vintage for whites in Burgundy across appellations is exceptional, ranking with 2010 and 2008. The across-the-board quality is a boon for consumers because even wines from the lowliest appellations from top producers, such as Alex Gambal’s Bourgogne Blanc, shine. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Château Coutet, Barsac (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($44): Sweet wines, such as this one, need to be judged on their verve and acidity, not just their luxurious richness. On that count, the 2014 Château Coutet is a winner. It has plenty of energy to balance its honeyed character so it’s not cloying at all, but rather refreshing. … Read more
Château Phélan Ségur, St. Estèphe (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($40): Under Véronique Dausse’s management Château Phélan Ségur has catapulted into the top ranks. Her team produced a positively gorgeous wine in 2014. Though refined and polished, it retained the attractive gritty earthiness that makes the wines of St. Estèphe so engaging. … Read more
Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($58): Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.” In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse. But it’s always a majestic wine. The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste. … Read more
Château Coufran, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($18): Château Coufran, an oddity on the Left Bank because of its high proportion of Merlot, combines a leafy earthy component with fine tannins in their 2014. It’s a steal. And just because Coufran is not a “classified growth” (that is, it was not classified as Grand Cru Classé in 1855) do not dismiss its ability to develop with age. … Read more
Château La Lagune, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2014
($40): A wine from a Chateau listed in famous 1855 Classification of Bordeaux — a so-called Classified Bordeaux — for $40 is a rarity. Especially when it’s not the Chateau’s “second” wine, but actually their “grand vin.” Château La Lagune has always been under-rated, delivering more than its price suggested. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($48): Also reflecting its origins, the Russian River Valley bottling delivers more black fruit-like flavors rather than the red fruit of the Sonoma Coast. In contrast to the cooler Sonoma Coast bottling, this one is fleshier with a hint of savory notes.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2014
($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component. A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness. It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity. I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne 2014
($63): Merry Edwards’ Georganne bottling has more apparent tannic structure compared to her others from 2014. It’s more brooding at this stage without the same velvety glossiness. That said, there is an appealing earthy, savory aspect that grows on you as the wine sits in the glass. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Cuvée August” 2014
($98): The grapes for Merry Edwards’ Cuvée August, named after her first grandchild and her most expensive Pinot Noir, come from the top part of the slope of the Meredith Estate. A dazzling and explosive wine, its concentration almost borders on a “Pinot Syrah” style, but does not cross the line. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2014
($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit. It speaks directly to you. Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish. Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2014
($68): There are fewer savory elements in Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane compared to the Coopersmith and Meredith, but the crystalline purity of the red fruit flavors is astounding. The savory slightly mushroom-y nuances appear with time, with reinforces an important point when drinking (or tasting) her wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith 2014
($66): Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling, similar to the Meredith Estate, delivers refined black fruit flavors enrobed in suave tannins. There’s also an alluring smoky or slightly toasted aspect to it. It’s long and captivating. Part of this wine’s excitement is that it is, indeed, different from the Meredith.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2014
($63): The pick of an exceptional litter at this stage, Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir says wow! It’s a wonderfully complex mixture of dark fruit and savory flavors. Both glossy and chewy (in a nice way) its contrasts continue to captivate throughout a meal. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines. For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version. This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization. There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. … Read more
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Rosé Brut NV
($45): A graceful blend of basically Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this salmon-hued rosé is both steely and fruity — and perfectly balanced. It’s remarkably versatile, working deliciously as an after-work, “I’m glad to be home,” aperitif and equally well with simply grilled salmon. … Read more
Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Abadía de San Campio” 2015
($18, Baron Francois): This 100% Albariño could be the poster child for Rias Baixas. Riveting without being aggressive, it awakens and refreshes the palate. It will slice through whatever flavors you put in front of it. A white pepperiness adds to its appeal. … Read more
Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 2015
($18, Baron Francois): The so-called “flagship” of the winery, this Rias Baixas is a blend of primarily Albariño (70%) and other indigenous varieties, Loureira and Caiño, which add subtle complexity. O Rosal refers to the valley in Rias Baixas where the vineyards are located. … Read more
Drappier, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV
($55): Drappier, a small family-run house, has been making Champagne since the early 19th century. They are one of the few houses that make a rosé Champagne entirely from Pinot Noir by the saignée method. That is, they press the Pinot Noir grapes, let the juice and skins remain in contact for a few days, just enough time to extract a touch of color, and then perform the secondary fermentation on the resulting pink-colored wine. … Read more
Auvigue, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2014
($18): Consumers should snap up as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can. It’s a great vintage across appellations, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. And it’s in the south of Burgundy where you really find bargains in 2014. … Read more
Auvigue, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Crays 2014
($32): Auvigue is one of the very top producers in the Mâconnais. Their name on a label is an assurance of quality. They make a range of wines from area including several from Pouilly-Fuissé that express the enormous — and wonderful — diversity of that appellation. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2014
($96): Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a grower, owning over 300-acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, including 30-acres of Grand Cru and about 180-acres of Premier Cru. They consistently excel in their Meursault. This magnificent Meursault Genevrières is a blend of two plots, totaling over 6-acres, that they own. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($300): Bouchard Père et Fils, owns over 1/3 of this Grand Cru vineyard that sits just above Le Montrachet, making them its largest owner. Their roughly 6.5-acres are located in all four terraces of the vineyard, which helps explain why their Chevalier-Montrachet is so complex. … Read more
Chateau du Basty, Régnié (Burgundy, France) 2015
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Chateau du Basty, situated a stone’s throw from Régnié and Morgon, two of the Beaujolais cru, has been in the same family since 1482 so it’s safe to assume they know something about the area. When I tasted there last November, there was no electricity because of a wind storm. … Read more
Patton Valley Vineyard, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate 2013
($34): At a trade tasting, I was impressed by the dramatic differences in Patton Valley Vineyard’s Pinot Noirs expressed depending on the location of the vineyard. Equally impressive is this one, blended from a variety of vineyard sites. Restrained, with more of a fruit than herbal focus, it is nicely balanced. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2011
($18, Vision Wine & Spirits): A more serious wine than their Crianza, Bodegas Franco Españolas’ Rioja Reserva is yet another example of how Spanish wines over-deliver. It’s more refined and polished, delivering more complexity compared to the Crianza. The Crianza’s vivacity is apparent here as well, which means you will not tire of it throughout a meal. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2005
($25, Vision Wine & Spirits): Astounding to find beautifully matured wine at retail at this price. This Gran Reserva demonstrates the virtue of cellaring wine…only in this case, Bodegas Franco Españolas did the work and absorbed the expense involved in aging. … Read more
Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Crianza (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2013
($13, Vision Wine & Spirits): The wines from Franco Españolas are just another example of the excellent bargains available from Spain. Take this Crianza for example. A blend of Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha, it is a lively mixture of red fruit flavors, spice and herbs. … Read more
Bodegas Ochoa, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2009
($22, Frontier Imports): Big and powerful, this blend of Tempranillo (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Merlot has a glossy texture. Even at seven years of age, a hint of seductive, almost sweet, oakiness remains. Its ripeness is felt in the finish as a touch of heat. … Read more
Pago de Larrainzar, Navarra (Spain) Reserva Especial 2009
($28): The international blend of Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) dwarfs the contribution of Tempranillo (15%) and Garnacha. With ripe flavors, a bit of sweet oak and a velvety texture, it’s a showy wine. Uplifting acidity keeps it lively and fresh, making it a good choice at a steakhouse.… Read more
Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo Reserva 2011
($17, Classical Wines of Spain): Navarra, a wine region in northern Spain, is best known for its Garnacha-based rosado. With its proximity to Rioja (indeed, a part of Rioja DOCa lies within the geographic area of Navarra) it is not surprising that Tempranillo, the major grape of its neighbor, does well too. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Wild Grace” 2014
($26): Love the wine, hate the marketing. Kim Crawford’s Wild Grace Chardonnay is one of their wines in a category that they refer to as “small parcels.” In short, they cull the best grapes from their best vineyards to make a reserve-style wine. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($20): Pieropan, one of the leading producers in Soave, makes at least two stunning single-vineyard wines. I remember having a 2005 from their La Rocca vineyard last year that was simply stunning — fresh and mature at once. So, it’s no surprise to me that their “regular” Soave Classico is delectable. … Read more
Domaine J. Chamonard, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) “Le Clos de Lys” 2014
($32, Savio Soares Selections): It’s hard to determine from the importer’s website whether Le Clos de Lys is actually a single vineyard or a proprietary name for a wine that comes from several parcels in Morgon. No matter, the wine is excellent and reinforces my opinion that the cru of Beaujolais will be the next hot area for French wine. … Read more
Ouled Thaleb, Morocco () “Ait Souala” 2012
($23, Nomadic Distribution): Named after Ait Souala, once the largest winemaking estate in Africa, this is a ripe blend of Arinarnoa (50%) and equal amounts of Tannat and Malbec. A big, muscular wine, which still has surprising freshness, it finishes smooth and round. … Read more
Ouled Thaleb, Morocco () “Signature” 2013
($23, Nomadic Distribution): You would be forgiven if you were unaware that Morocco produces wine — and good ones at that. After all, the Sahara Desert lies within the country and 99% of the population belongs to a religion that prohibits alcohol consumption. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (La Rochelle) 2014
($33, Wilson Daniels): Château du Moulin-à-Vent sits virtually adjacent to the iconic wind-mill that gives the name to the village that many consider the top cru of Beaujolais. They, along with other top producers in Moulin-à-Vent, are intent on highlighting the differences among the vineyards. … Read more
Frédéric Berne, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Corcelette 2014
($20): I only became acquainted with Frédéric Berne’s Beaujolais during my annual trip to Burgundy last November. Based on my tasting of his 2014s, I would try anything he makes. He, like many of the top producers in Beaujolais, is raising the bar in that region by identifying vineyards within the cru (the 10 towns that produce the most distinctive wines) that have unique terroir and are capable of making superior wines. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine des Hospices de Belleville 2015
($25, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Beaujolais is clearly a hot area. Major Beaune-based Burgundy négociants are investing there, either by buying properties, such as Jadot with Château des Jacques, or, as with Drouhin, collaborating with the Domaine des Hospices de Belleville to produce and market their wines. … Read more
Frédéric Berne, Chiroubles (Beaujolais, France) Les Terrasses 2015
($20): Wines from Chiroubles, another one of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are typically fruitier and less firm than those from Morgon. Berne’s 2015 Chiroubles from Les Terrasses, one of the top spots in that village, is exuberant without being over the top. … Read more
Carmel Road, Monterey (California) Pinot Noir 2014
($25): A delightful, well-priced Pinot Noir is hard to find, so I was especially pleased to sample this one. Light-bodied with intriguing herbal earthy flavors and mild tannins, it’s perfect for current consumption with a veal chop or roast chicken with mushrooms. … Read more
Carmel Road, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Pinot Noir Panorama Vineyard 2013
($35): A bigger and riper version of their delightful — and easy to recommend — straight Monterey Pinot Noir, Carmel Road’s Panorama Vineyard bottling focuses more on the sweet fruity aspect of the grape. In the process, they lose delicacy and complexity than Pinot Noir offers. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Oporto (Portugal) 10 Year-Old Tawny Porto NV
($31): Along with winter, at least as measured by the calendar, comes the Port season. A high-quality 10-year-old Tawny, such as this one from Noval, is a perfect way to start the season and end a meal. Tawnies are unfussy: Open the bottle, pour and enjoy, then re-cork and repeat the next day. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Rivera Liguria di Ponente DOC (Liguria, Italy) Pigato 2015
($24, Montcalm Wine Imports): Though Pigato is the same as the Vermentino grape, according to DNA analysis, it has a different flavor profile when transformed into wine, presumably because of where it’s planted. Indeed, Lunae’s 2015 Pigato, though equally enjoyable as their Vermentino, is different. … Read more
Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010
($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.” But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling St. Andrews Vineyard 2014
($20): It could be the screw cap closure, but whatever, this wine benefits enormously from 15 minutes of aeration before consumption. Then it sings. Dry and cutting, it has the enamel-cleansing quality of first-rate Riesling. A firm racy edge makes it better with food, such as spiced Asian or Indian fare, as opposed to a stand along aperitif.… Read more
Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2011
($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum. They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor. The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) “Marsiliana” 2012
($30): I’m always skeptical of a Cabernet-based Super Tuscan wine, even from a top producer, such as Principe Corsini, because Cabernet can overwhelm Tuscan identity. No such problem with Marsiliana, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, despite being aged in new small French oak barrels. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Cuvée POM” 2013
($48): J. Lohr makes three Bordeaux-like Cuvées, “PAU,” “St. E” and “POM” inspired by the blend typical for those appellations, Pauillac, St. Estephe and Pomerol. The 2013 Cuvée POM is a successful blend of primarily Merlot (84%) filled out by Malbec (8%) and equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Cellars Uinó, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha “Perlat” 2014
($12, Monsieur Touton): Montsant is sometimes referred to as a “little brother” appellation to its more famous and expensive neighbor, Priorat. There’s nothing little brother about this wine. Waves of aromas pour from the glass predicting pleasure on the palate. It’s wonderfully dense, dark and ripe, yet does not go overboard and finishes with a subtle and paradoxical succulent bitterness. … Read more