Category Archives: Reviews

Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2014

($58): Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.”  In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse.  But it’s always a majestic wine.  The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch 2014

($66): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling highlights bright red fruit flavors with less emphasis on the savory component.  A succulent wine, it is balanced and pure with an alluring suppleness.  It strikes a gorgeous mid ground in terms of intensity.  I’m not sure that anyone, even Edwards herself, can explain precisely what it is about the vineyards that results in the different expressions of her wines. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Flax Vineyard 2014

($60): The Flax Vineyard bottling bombards the palette — in a very nice way — with lovely aromatics and juicy dark red fruit.  It speaks directly to you.  Savory elements appear, almost reluctantly, but then persist through a long finish.  Similar to her other Pinot Noirs, the tannins are suave giving the wine a velvety texture.Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2015

($34): Few people get excited about Sauvignon Blanc as they do about other varietal wines.  For those skeptics, it’s time to taste Merry Edwards’ version.  This is an exciting wine that defies easy categorization.  There’s the bite of Sauvignon Blanc, to be sure, but there’s a creaminess and suaveness that suggests a Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Read more

Drappier, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV

($55): Drappier, a small family-run house, has been making Champagne since the early 19th century.  They are one of the few houses that make a rosé Champagne entirely from Pinot Noir by the saignée method.  That is, they press the Pinot Noir grapes, let the juice and skins remain in contact for a few days, just enough time to extract a touch of color, and then perform the secondary fermentation on the resulting pink-colored wine. Read more

Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2014

($96): Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a grower, owning over 300-acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, including 30-acres of Grand Cru and about 180-acres of Premier Cru.  They consistently excel in their Meursault.  This magnificent Meursault Genevrières is a blend of two plots, totaling over 6-acres, that they own. Read more

Bodegas Franco Españolas, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Rioja Bordón” 2011

($18, Vision Wine & Spirits): A more serious wine than their Crianza, Bodegas Franco Españolas’ Rioja Reserva is yet another example of how Spanish wines over-deliver.  It’s more refined and polished, delivering more complexity compared to the Crianza.  The Crianza’s vivacity is apparent here as well, which means you will not tire of it throughout a meal. Read more

Domaine J. Chamonard, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) “Le Clos de Lys” 2014

($32, Savio Soares Selections): It’s hard to determine from the importer’s website whether Le Clos de Lys is actually a single vineyard or a proprietary name for a wine that comes from several parcels in Morgon.  No matter, the wine is excellent and reinforces my opinion that the cru of Beaujolais will be the next hot area for French wine. Read more

Frédéric Berne, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Corcelette 2014

($20): I only became acquainted with Frédéric Berne’s Beaujolais during my annual trip to Burgundy last November.  Based on my tasting of his 2014s, I would try anything he makes.  He, like many of the top producers in Beaujolais, is raising the bar in that region by identifying vineyards within the cru (the 10 towns that produce the most distinctive wines) that have unique terroir and are capable of making superior wines. Read more

Stony Hill Vineyard, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2011

($46): Though the current drumbeat in California is for restrained Chardonnay, it was Stony Hill, decades ago, in the 1950s, that basically invented the drum.  They’ve always made restrained, yet flavorful, cutting Chardonnays, the kind you savor.  The 2011, not their recent release, but still available at the retail level, shows how beautifully their wines develop. Read more

Cellars Uinó, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha “Perlat” 2014

($12, Monsieur Touton): Montsant is sometimes referred to as a “little brother” appellation to its more famous and expensive neighbor, Priorat.  There’s nothing little brother about this wine.  Waves of aromas pour from the glass predicting pleasure on the palate.  It’s wonderfully dense, dark and ripe, yet does not go overboard and finishes with a subtle and paradoxical succulent bitterness. Read more