($28): It seems as though everything with bubbles is now called Prosecco. And not just in the U.S. I’ve ordered Prosecco in Italy, have been poured a glass from a bottle labeled sparkling Soave and have had the sommelier insist that it was “Prosecco.” … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Viticcio, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2013
($24): Wines from the Chianti Classico region, which, remember is a distinct and more prestigious subzone of the greater Chianti area, continue to thrill. This one from Viticcio, a blend of Sangiovese (90%) with equal amounts of Merlot and Syrah, is very appealing even now, though its balance suggests more complexity will evolve over the next five or so years. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Ben Rye” 2014
($30): Pantelleria, an island off the coast of Sicily that is closer to Africa than Rome, has the potential to produce wonderfully sweet wines. Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, consistently fulfills that potential with their Ben Rye, a wine made from the Muscat of Alessandria grape. … Read more
Tenuta Regaleali, Sicilia DOC (Sicily, Italy) Perricone “Guarnaccio” 2014
($17): Conte Tasca d’Almerita’s Tenuta Regaleali, one of Sicily’s leading producers, has shown the world repeatedly that Sicily can produce superb wine. To their credit, they do not rest on their laurels. This wine, only their third vintage, is a good example of their broad thinking. … Read more
Santa Maria La Palma, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Blu” 2016
($15): Vermentino, Sardinia’s most planted grape variety, has become “hot.” Even the French are starting to use the Italian name instead of the French name, Rolle. Vermentino does best in a hot climate with proximity to the sea, which makes Sardinia a perfect locale. … Read more
G.D. Vajra, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Freisa “Kyè” 2013
($41): G.D. Vajra is one of Piedmont’s top producers. Their name on a label is a guarantee of quality. Freisa, on the other hand, is not so consistent. It is a close relative of Nebbiolo and, like that grape, it has a prominent tannic structure. … Read more
Sartarelli, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy) “Tralivio” 2015
($18): It’s easy to understand why Sartarelli, one of the region’s top producers, calls the wine Tralivio, which means around the olive trees, instead of using the tongue-twisting name of the DOC. Wines made from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are undergoing a renaissance as producers realize that the focus should be on quality over quantity. … Read more
Tiberio, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP (Abruzzo, Italy) 2016
($15): There are eight varieties of Trebbiano, according to Ian D’Agata, the world’s foremost authority on Italian grapes, which results in great confusion because they are certainly not all the same. This wine is made from Trebbiano Abruzzese, not to be confused with the more pedestrian Trebbiano Toscana. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2015
($23): Cadaretta has consistently excelled with their SBS bottling, using the initials of the grapes to name this wine. A Bordeaux-like blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%) and Semillon, it’s a balanced, harmonious wine. The addition of Semillon adds a lanolin-like texture and depth without eviscerating the pleasant pungency of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($40): I had no familiarity with Stewart Cellars until I tasted this Chardonnay. The winery is clearly now on my radar screen. It should be on yours. This is a show-stopping Chardonnay — not because of its power, but because of its stylish elegance. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Founded in only 2000, Stewart Cellars buys grapes from growers they respect. This Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Stanly Ranch Vineyard in Napa Valley. A judicious use of oak imparts a hint of creaminess that balances the bite of Sauvignon Blanc without eviscerating it.… Read more
Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($25): Who knew that Freemark Abbey made excellent Sauvignon Blanc? Of course, they are an iconic producer of Cabernet Sauvignon and some incredibly lush sweet wines. It’s crisp and laser-like, with a snappy bite that is not aggressive. Plenty of body and depth balances its knife-like cutting edginess. … Read more
Shooting Star, Mendocino County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($14): Consumers looking for wines that over deliver for the price should embrace Jed Steele’s Shooting Star label. Steele, known for nuance rather than over the top opulence in his Chardonnay, maintains that style with this one. A hint of pineapple-like tropical fruit flavors are kept in check and balanced by wonderfully racy acidity. … Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Renowned California winemaker Jed Steele is behind the Shooting Star. Steele buys grapes and wines from others, blends, ages and bottles them under this label. His talents at blending shine in this well-priced Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a nicely balanced compromise combining the lively bite of Sauvignon Blanc with the barest hint of fleshiness, which tames the potentially aggressive nature of the grape. … Read more
Stewart Cellars, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Rosé 2016
($28): As regular WineReviewOnline readers know, I’d usually prefer a chilled light red wine to the vast majorities of innocuous rosé on the market. Here’s an exception — perhaps because it tastes like a light red because of a touch of tannin in finish.… Read more
Luce, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($110, Folio Wine Imports): Luce della Vite, usually referred to as “Luce,” initially was a joint venture of the Mondavi and Frescobaldi families but is now owned solely by Frescobaldi. A Super Tuscan blend of roughly equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot grown in the Montalcino area, it does not conform to Italian winemaking regulations and therefore carries the IGT designation. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2015
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): At first blush — no pun intended — you’d think this wine was a marketing genius, encompassing two very hot wine categories: Pinot Grigio and Rosé. But no, the pink — actually copper hue — of the wine comes from the light red color of the skins of the Pinot Grigio grape. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Fleurie comes from two sites within the village. (Jadot has yet to make a single vineyard wine from Fleurie.) One site is at a higher elevation and cooler, which Cyril Chirouze, Château des Jacques’ winemaker, says provides grapes that impart elegance to the wine, while the other warmer site provides power. … Read more
Ornellaia, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($175, Folio Wine Imports): Axel Heinz, Ornellaia’s winemaker, described 2014 as a vintage that was “challenging for reds.” He continued, “One thing we can rely on in Bolgheri is summer — but not in 2014.” The weather in July and August was dreadful — cool and rainy — which meant that in many sites, even some of the very best ones, the grapes did not achieve full ripeness. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2015
($21, Palm Bay International): A harmonious blend of Nero d’Avola (60%) and Frappato, Planeta consistently makes an excellent example of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s sole DOCG wine. The 2015 delivers a mixture of lovely cherry-like and mineral flavors wrapped in mild finely polished tannins. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This Moulin à Vent combines the best of Fleurie and Morgon. It’s remarkably fresh and approachable with juicy fruitiness and deep mineral-like flavors. You can almost taste the granite soil. It has less spice compared to the 2015 Château des Jacques Morgon, but silkier tannins. … Read more
Château des Jacques, Morgon (Burgundy, France) 2015
($28, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Anyone who doubts that Beaujolais can excite needs to taste Château des Jacques’ 2015 trio of Morgon, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, three of the 10 Beaujolais crus. The crus are 10 villages in the northern part of the region whose bedrock is either pink granite or a blue-black volcanic stone and whose wines are so distinctive that only the name of the village, not Beaujolais, appears on the label. … Read more
Codorníu, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Gran Reserva Brut “Jaume” 2012
($60): It should come as no surprise that Codorníu, still a leader in Cava production and the company essentially responsible for creating the category, should produce a show-stopping wine. In this Gran Reserva, one of their top bottlings, they use an unusual blend — at least for Cava — of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Xarel-lo. … Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) La Rocca 2014
($35): Soave is back. Wines from this northeastern part of Italy used to rank with Chianti as America’s favorite Italian wine. Predictably, as popularity rose, quality slipped and Soave was all too often an innocuous white wine. No longer. Producers focused on quality have returned Soave to its rightful place in the world of wine. … Read more
Zenato, Lugana (Veneto, Italy) “San Benedetto” 2016
($17, Winebow): Lugana, a tiny appellation on the southern side of Lake Garda, is having a renaissance and Zenato, one of the area’s largest and best producers, has been responsible for it. These zesty white wines are made primarily from the Turbiana grape (a.k.a.… Read more
Villa Bucci, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) 2013
($49): A tiny — just over 350 acres — DOCG, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva was carved out of the larger Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC in 2010. (They changed the name — putting the geographic name, Castelli di Jesi, before Verdicchio, the name of the grape — a year later, in 2011.)… Read more
Bérêche & Fils, Champagne (France) Brut Réserve NV
($46): So-called grower Champagnes, those made from one person’s or family’s vineyards, are all the rage. I recommend this one, not because it is a grower Champagne, which it is, but because of its suave complexity. Making Champagne from a limited number of family vineyards is a two-edged sword. … Read more
Gundlach Bundschu, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($27): This is a nicely balanced Chardonnay that expresses both a subtle fruitiness and spice. Bright acidity keeps it lively and fresh. The location of the vineyards in a cooler area — the Sonoma Coast — helps account for the refined, not overblown, style. … Read more
Jordan, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2015
($32): Jordan makes just two wines, this Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon, which may help explain why they are so consistently excellent. It also helps that they have never strayed from their style — favoring elegance and finesse over shear power. … Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “October Night” 2015
($25): J. Lohr’s October Night Chardonnay is riper compared to the Arroyo Vista bottling — but still not too ripe — with a pronounced floral component, which would allow you to drink a glass before dinner. But, similar to the Arroyo Vista, it, too, has vibrancy in the finish that makes it a good choice at the dinner table.… Read more
J. Lohr, Arroyo Seco (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2015
($25): J. Lohr was one of, if not the first, to embrace Arroyo Secco appellation of Monterey County when he planted vines there in 1972. His experience has allowed him to differentiate vineyards within the appellation. This Chardonnay from Arroyo Vista vineyard is clearly different from the one labeled October Night — it’s not just a marketing gimmick. … Read more
Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) Terre di Prenzano 2015
($22, Montcalm Wine Imports): This is quintessential Chianti Classico — remember Chianti Classico is one of the prized subzones of the Chianti region — with bright fruitiness, a touch of herbal flavors and lip-smacking acidity that compels another sip. The richness of the 2015 vintage is apparent, but the team at Vignamggio avoids jamminess or overripe character. … Read more
Sweetzer Cellars, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Presqu’ile Vineyard 2014
($40): For this zesty Chardonnay, Sweetzer purchased grapes from Presqu’ile Vineyard. They aspire — and have achieved — a Chablis styled wine that is both slightly creamy and steely. It’s a hard combination to master, but Sweetzer has. The uplifting finish belies the 14.4 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Estate Block 10 2015
($32): This wine represents a dilemma for wine critics. It’s not a style of Chardonnay that I like personally, but it is well made and will appeal to a broad range of consumers, especially those who prefer bold Chardonnay. The wine making team used the usual techniques for amping-up the profile: Ripe grapes translating to a 14.5 percent-stated alcohol, fermentation and aging in the barrel, and malolactic fermentation (which converts harsher malic acid to a creamier lactic acid). … Read more
Flying Goat Cellars, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Brut 2013
($42): Norm Yost, owner of Flying Goat Cellars, was either crazy or a visionary when he was the first to make a sparkling wine in Sta. Rita Hills in 2005. Now there are more than 30 producers who have followed him, so you can draw your own conclusions. … Read more
Flying Goat Cellars, Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard “2A” 2012
($42): Norman Yost, owner and winemaker of Flying Goat Cellars, acquired detailed knowledge of the vineyards of Santa Barbara County when he worked for Foley Estates, one of the region’s largest producers. Now, making his own wine, he knows from whom to buy grapes. … Read more
Sweetzer Cellars, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2014
($30): It’s worth keeping your eyes out for wines from this new small producer in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. Sweetzer, like many producers in the Sta. Rita Hills, buys grapes from growers as opposed to owning their own vineyards — a set-up that is similar to a small Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Illuminati, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG (Abruzzo, Italy) “Zanna” 2011
($38, Montcalm Wine Imports): The somewhat unwieldy name of Abruzzo’s sole DOCG and the reputation of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for producing only inexpensive wine might put some consumers off from ordering this one. That would be a mistake. The Colline Teramane area within Abruzzo is uniquely well suited for the Montepulciano grape because its exposure to the sea and the elevation of the vineyards act as cooling influences, which allows the grapes to maintain their acidity thus instilling liveliness to the wines. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2014
($35, Louis Latour USA): Fourchaume is a Premier Cru vineyard that lies on the right bank of the Serein River, adjacent to the string of Grand Cru vineyards. To my mind, it is typically the most opulent of the premier crus with more ripeness and less minerality than the others. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014
($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine. And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2014
($30, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines. Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Clos du Roi (Burgundy, France) 2014
($95, Louis Latour USA): In addition to using some fruit from their holdings in Clos du Roi vineyard, Latour also bottles a wine made exclusively from grapes grown there. Wines from Corton Clos du Roi often have a plushness and luxurious texture — showing it’s good to be the King — that make them especially attractive. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Grancey 2014
($117, Louis Latour USA): Latour’s Corton Grancey, a Grand Cru and their flagship wine, is a blend of four Grand Cru vineyards on the hill of Corton: Corton-Perrieres, Corton-Bressandes, Corton-Clos du Roi, and Corton-Grèves. The proportion each vineyard contributes to the finished wine varies vintage to vintage. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay “Miljenko’s Selection” 2014
($60): In a word, thrilling. “Mike” Grgich, the king of Chardonnay since it was he who made the Chardonnay that stunned the French and the world in the Judgment of Paris 1976 tasting, has done it again. Rich and explosive, this wine dances on the palate without a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Northeastern Spain) “La Casona” 2008
($30): In the hierarchy of the Spanish classification of wine growing areas, a Pago is at the top. Pago is a single estate that produces exceptional wines according to the Spanish authorities. La Casona is their mid-level wine, which seriously over delivers for the price. … Read more
Giovanna Madonia, Romagna Albana Secco DOCG (Italy) “Neblina” 2014
($19): This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine. Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification. … Read more
Paul-Etienne Saint Germain, Champagne (France) Rosé NV
($50): The blend — 90 percent Pinot Noir and the remainder Chardonnay — explains the power of this Champagne. But its appeal is not just its power. It has depth and most important, impeccable balance. Nothing seems out of place. Yes, drink it as an aperitif, but it’s sturdy enough to stand up to a salad Niçoise ladened with grilled rare tuna.… Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon 2015
($41, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils labels his Vaillon as the singular, omitting the “s” to emphasize that their grapes come from the original and heart of the vineyard, not an adjacent vineyard that is allowed to use the name Vaillons. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2015
($29, Frederick Wildman & Sons): With everyone raving about the Chablis and other white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage, those wines from 2015 may be overlooked, which would be a shame. Domaine Christian Moreau made an exceptional village Chablis in 2015, a year that produced riper whites compared to 2014. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This sensational bargain is clearly marketed to New World wine drinkers with the word Chardonnay in large type emblazoned on the label. Marketing aside, with zesty energy and a hint of seductive creaminess, its flavor profile and character shouts — in a refined way — white Burgundy. … Read more