($15, Palm Bay International): Rocca delle Maciè consistently makes lovely Chianti Classico, so it’s no surprise that they succeed with the Sangiovese grape further south in Scansano. Their Morellino di Scansano 2015 focuses more on ripe cherry-like fruit than earthiness, but a hint of savory notes and bright acidity keeps it in balance. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Feudi di San Gregorio, Falanghina del Sannio DOC (Campania, Italy) 2015
($15, Palm Bay International): Falanghina, the grape was named after falengae, the Latin word for the stakes the Romans used to support the vine, is my “go to” wine in Italian restaurants with modest wine lists because it almost always represents good value.… Read more
Vazart-Coquart et Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($52): 
Not many producers make a non-vintage Blanc de Blanc Champagne. Fortunately, this small grower does. Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru village of Chouilly, it’s enticingly creamy and elegant. A delicate toasty, yeasty element just adds to its allure. … Read more
Domaine Louis Michel, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($66): My advice to Chablis-lovers is to snap up this wine. It’s really no surprise since it’s a trifecta: Louis Michel is a great producer of pure distinctive Chablis, Vaudésir along with Les Clos are the two top Grand Cru vineyard sites in Chablis, and 2014 was a stellar vintage for white Burgundy in general. … Read more
Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Coteau de Fontanay” 2016
($29, David Bowler Wine): Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation. Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess. … Read more
Patrick Piuze, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Terroir de Fyé” 2016
($29, David Bowler Wine): 
There is a longstanding tradition of identifying vineyards when making Chablis Premier and Grand Cru. Fewer producers do that with village wines, preferring to simply label the wine Chablis. Piuze, who like many relatively new small négociants owns no vineyards, opting instead to buy grapes from local growers, is able to take an intermediate approach. … Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “San Michele” 2016
($16): 
Not a single-vineyard wine, San Michele is the name. Cà Rugate’s San Michele bottling is a blend from several of their vineyards located in the Soave Classico subregion, the best area for Soave production. More fruity than mineraly, it blossoms with air, befitting a young wine. … Read more
Nardello, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2016
($14): Nardello is one of the producers changing the image of Soave. A key to finding top quality Soave is to look for those, such as this one, that comes from the Classico subregion. Fortunately for consumers the price of Soave from these top producers has not caught up to the quality.… Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Fiorentine 2015
($20): Both the 2015 and 2016 are in some markets simultaneously. They offer a superb example of the differences between the vintages, with 2015 being riper and 2016 being racier. Hence, something for everyone. Cà Rugate opts to use Garganaga exclusively from this 15-acre vineyard that sits about 600 feet above sea level. … Read more
Cà Rugate, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) Monte Fiorentine 2016
($20): 
This wine ticks all the right boxes. Cà Rugate is a top Soave producer. Monte Fiorentine, a single-vineyard bottling from their old vineyards with vines that are approximately 50 years old, according to Francesco Ganci, their Italian commercial direction, is their top Soave. … Read more
Ottella, Lugana Riserva (Veneto, Italy) “Molceo” 2014
($30): Wines like this one will make Lugana a common name. That Ottella could make a wine this polished in 2014, a “challenging” year, to say the least, shows the dedication of this producer. It’s floral and elegant, with just the right understated hints of tropical fruit.… Read more
Le Morette, Lugana DOC (Veneto, Italy) Mandolara 2016
($22): Lugana, a small DOC just south of Lake Garda, is a treasure trove of well-priced white wines. Le Morette’s single-vineyard Mandolara is just one example. The grape, formerly thought to be Trebbiano di Soave (and sometimes still referred to that on labels), is Turbiano, a distinctly different variety as determined by DNA analysis. … Read more
Cavalchina, Custoza Superiore (Veneto, Italy) “Amedeo” 2015
($18): The Custoza DOC, formerly known as Bianco di Custoza, has suffered in the past from watered-down versions made by co-ops and other industrial-sized producers. Cavalchina is trying to change the reputation and certainly will do so as more consumers taste their wines. … Read more
Guyot Choppin, Champagne (France) NV
($30): 
Real Champagne at 30 bucks a bottle these days makes you stop and look. One taste makes you buy a case. Fresh and delicately fruity, this lighter styled Champagne has the elegance and length you’d expect. Those looking for a toasty bigger style of Champagne will be disappointed, but others who favor the more delicate style will embrace this bargain-priced bubbly.… Read more
Domaine des Gandines, Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) NV
($17): 
Domaine des Gandines, a family run winery located in the Mâconnais, produces a variety of still white wines from that region, Viré-Clessé, and Macon-Peronne, that are available in the U.S. This Crémant, as good as it is — and well priced to boot — is not available yet, but hopefully that will change.… Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Volnay (Burgundy, France) 2015
($50): 
As the 2015 red Burgundies begin to hit retailers’ shelves, they confirm my initial enthusiasm for this vintage. Take, for example, this Volnay, a village wine from one of Burgundy’s top négociants. Floral and lacey, it conveys the quintessential Burgundy characteristic that I call “flavor without weight.” … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Colli Martani DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Grecante” 2016
($18, Wilson Daniels): 
Historically, white wines from Umbria, made from the Grechetto grape, were called Greco, Grechetto or Grecante. Arnaldo-Caprai, one of the region’s leading producers, opted from Grecante, but the grape name still appears on the label as well. This white combines freshness with an intriguing subtle nuttiness. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso DOC (Umbria, Italy) 2014
($20, Wilson Daniels): 
The major problem facing growers of Sagrantino di Montefalco, a prestigious DOCG in Umbria, is how to make the wine more approachable when young — Sagrantino has ferocious tannins — without eviscerating it. Enter the Montefalco Rosso DOC, which gives the consumer a chance get a hint of what the region has to offer. … Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) “Apanage” Rosé Brut NV
($72): 
This is a show-stopper of a Rosé. With eyes closed, it has the power and a hint of tannin — like the texture of peach-skin — that would make you think you’re drinking red wine. Full-bodied, but elegant and suave, it’s a great as an aperitif, but also marvelous with food. … Read more
Pommery, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Louise” Brut 2004
($100): 
Cuvée Louise is Pommery’s top of the line Champagne. Made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three Grand Cru villages, the 2004 is stunning, combining power and elegance. The elegance comes from the Chardonnay and persists throughout the extraordinary finish. … Read more
Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma County (California) “Anniversary Cuvée” 2010
($40): This is a gorgeous sparkling wine from one of California leading sparkling wine producers. A blend of roughly 2/3rds Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, it delivers a delicately fruity and creamy mixture that enlivens the palate. An attractive hint of yeastiness, from 5 and 1/2 years on the lees adds complexity without weightiness. … Read more
Tenuta Sette Cieli, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Scipio” 2010
($92, Wilson Daniels): It’s not surprising to see more estates popping up in Bolgheri, the area of the Tuscan coast that’s home to super star such as, Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Moreover, it stands to reason that there’s potential for other producers to find the correct microclimates for their interpretation of wines made from the Bordeaux varieties. … Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2012
($60, Kobrand): Tenute Silvio Nardi produces classically framed Brunello that reveal their substantial charms slowly. They have vineyards both in the northwest and southeast section of the DOCG zone, which allows them to capture the virtues of each of those zones by using grapes from both of them for this wine. … Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) 2007
($81, Palm Bay Imports): A blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (40%) and Pinot Meunier, Boizel’s 2007 Champagne combines power and elegance. The wonderful spine of acidity, reflective of the vintage, balances the wine’s power perfectly. The impeccable balance of concentration and grace allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif or with food.… Read more
Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
($66, Palm Bay Imports): Blanc de Blancs on a Champagne label, unlike on the label of a still wine, actually means something very specific — the wine was made using only Chardonnay. All Blanc de Blancs are expensive because Chardonnay is in great demand in the Champagne region and most are vintage dated, which adds to the price. … Read more
Migration, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2014
($68): The orientation of the Santa Maria Valley is unusual in California because in runs East-West rather than the usual North-South. As such, the vineyards there are exposed directly to the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. That climatic difference explains the difference in character between Santa Maria-grown Pinot Noir and those from the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch 2015
($40): The most striking aspect of this Pinot Noir is its difference from Sonoma Loeb’s Bateman Ranch bottling. Why extol the differences? Because Pinot Noir is the best red grape for expressing the vineyard and these two wines — Dutton Ranch and Bateman Ranch — do just that. … Read more
Sonoma-Loeb, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bateman Ranch 2015
($60): Sonoma-Loeb’s Bateman Ranch Pinot Noir emphasizes the mineral-like flavors as opposed to the fruit flavors of their Dutton Ranch bottling. It’s firmer than the Dutton Ranch bottling, but like its brother, it has impeccable balance and suave tannins. Is one “better” than the other? … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
($16, Vintus): 
If there is a more enjoyable red wine at this price, I’d like to know about it. Guigal’s Côtes du Rhône is always an excellent value and the 2012 is no exception. It’s riper and a touch fruitier than the racier 2013, which is also on the market. … Read more
Guigal, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) 2013
($16, Vintus): 
Collectors and conoisseurs know of Guigla’s “La La’s”, as they are called — his tiny production, single vineyard wines from the Côte Rôtie, La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque — that sell for hundreds of dollars upon release. … Read more
Kendall Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate, Camelot Highlands 2015
($35): 
This is an easy wine to recommend for its creamy seductive texture. Some will complain it’s heavy or overdone, but those who like a rich Chardonnay with a hint of butter will embrace it. It does double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany a roast chicken with a creamy mushroom sauce.… Read more
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Reserva (Spain) “Viña Ardanza” 2008
($32): 
Where else but Spain, and specifically Rioja, do you find a nine year old wine as the current release? And look at the price. Not to mention that La Rioja Alta is one of the best producers in Rioja. Here’s a chance for consumers to taste the magical transformation of youthful fruitiness in a wine to intriguing and hard to define non-fruit flavors of leather and earth.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2016
($14): Although the Marlborough region of New Zealand put Sauvignon Blanc on the map, other regions fashion distinctive and equally enjoyable versions. Take this one from North Canterbury, a region on New Zealand’s east coast in the mid-portion of the South Island. … Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Chardonnay 2015
($14): The name of the winery aptly describes the wine: Beautiful. Crisp and lemony, it carries its 14.5 percent stated alcohol effortlessly. This stylish edgy Chardonnay has a green apple-like vivacity to support its mid-weight body. It works as a stand-alone aperitif or a fitting accompaniment to simply grilled fish.… Read more
Grignano, Chianti Rùfina (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
Chianti Rùfina, the smallest of the eight subzones of Chianti, a vast area in the middle of Tuscany, accounts for only about three percent of the region’s production. By comparison, Chianti Classico, the best known of the subzones and the area located in the hills between Florence and Siena, produces ten times the amount of wine. … Read more
Ruffino, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva Ducale” 2012
($25): 
Ruffino is one of the leading names in Chianti Classico, producing a range of traditionally styled wines at reasonable prices. Their top one, Riserva Ducale Oro (with a gold label), made only in the best vintages has an extraordinary ability to develop amazing complexity with bottle age.… Read more
Viticcio, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2014
($18): 
This is a masterful Chianti Classico that walks the line between the so-called “modern” and “traditional” styles. A hint of Merlot (2%) in the blend with Sangiovese (98%) adds fleshiness without being overt. The engaging herbal earthy notes still dominate. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay Estate 2015
($32): 
Balance. That’s why this wine is so enjoyable. And enjoyable, not just for a sip, but also throughout the meal. There’s the lush ripeness and power you’d expect from Napa Valley Chardonnay, but the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay on the Carneros region brings out a lovely lemony counterpoint and vivacity.… Read more
Mount Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2015
($18): 
The winery’s name describes its 2015 Pinot Gris — beautiful. It delivers a hint of pear-like spice and textural sensation buttressed by an enlivening structure. It has real depth and length. Not a watery Pinot Grigio or a heavy Pinot Gris, it delivers freshness and body. … Read more
Vietti, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Tre Vigne” 2015
($17, Dalla Terra Direct): 
Spoiler alert. This wine is a fantastic bargain for current consumption, even in the summer. For starters, Vietti is one of the superstar producers in Piedmont. Their Barolos are legendary, with comparable pricing. Vietti’s Barberas are equally enjoyable, albeit in an entirely different manner. … Read more
Koenig Vineyards, Snake River Valley (Idaho) Late Harvest Riesling , Botrytis — Single Berry Select 2014
($30): 
First, a little geography for those, like myself, who are unfamiliar with Idaho viticulture. Koenig Vineyards, founded in 1995 by Greg Koenig and his family, is located just west of Boise in central Idaho near the Oregon border. Their website informs us that they are in the Sunny Slope District of the Snake River Valley. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay 2015
($26): 
Matanzas Creek has always been a star producer of Chardonnay. They continue their reputation with this one. They manage to deliver satisfying concentration without wandering into the “in your face” character. Restrained, but not silent, this Chardonnay speaks to you without shouting. … Read more
Cambria Estate, Santa Maria Valley (California) Chardonnay “Clone 4” 2015
($30): Santa Maria Valley, though located in Southern California, actually has some very cool areas because the valley runs East-West instead of the more usual North-South orientation. As such, it draws cool air from the Pacific Ocean. Indeed, growers determine what to plant where by assessing how much heat is needed to ripen a particular variety — Chardonnay and Pinot Noir favor western sites while Cabernet Sauvignon needs the heat of more inland — eastern — plots. … Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2015
($20): Whitehaven has fashioned a slightly more restrained style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It’s still clean and fresh, with an attractively pungent bite, but, thankfully, does not shake you with electrifying verve. In a word, they’ve achieved a lovely combination of fresh herbal notes and lime-like acidity. … Read more
Fattoria Viticcio, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Greppico” 2015
($12): Fattoria Viticcio is best known for their lovely Chianti Classico and their Super Tuscan, Greppicaia, from Bolgheri. Add this satisfying Vermentino to the list. Fresh and lively, there’s a mouth-watering salinity to it that screams for this summer’s seafood. It has surprising — for Vermentino — density and alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.… Read more
Bricco dei Guazzi, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Gavi di Gavi 2015
($14, Montcalm Wine Importers): Although consumers mostly identify Piedmont with its noble red wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco, the region produces a superb array of whites, such as Gavi, which are opened with far less of a drum roll. For the Gavi di Gavi designation, all of the grapes must come exclusively from the town of Gavi, one of the 14 communes — and certainly one of the two or three best — that comprise the DOCG zone.… Read more
Cantine Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Luni DOC (Liguria/Tuscany, Italy) Vermentino “Etichetta Grigia” 2016
($25, Montcalm Wine Importers): 
I have extolled the virtues of Cantine Lunae Bosoni in the past, particularly their Vermentini. There’s no reason to stop now: Their 2016 “Etichetta Grigia” (or Gray Label) Vermentino is an exciting wine. (They also produce a more expensive one, Etichetta Nero, a.k.a.… Read more
Medici Ermete, Colli Scandiano e Canossa DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Vino Frizzante Secco “Daphne” 2016
($18, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): This is labeled Vino Frizzante Secco, which means slightly bubbly and dry. But it’s not really dry. It is aromatic, reminiscent of Moscato, but with more weight. Great acidity keeps it fresh and lively, so it doesn’t come across as cloying despite the light sweetness. … Read more
Donnafugata, Passito di Pantelleria DOC (Italy) “Ben Ryè” 2015
($35): Baldo Palermo, a representative of Donnafugata, described the island of Pantelleria as, “A volcanic rock jutting from the sea,” where the major activity is “listening to the wind.” Hence it’s appropriate that this wine is called Ben Ryè, which means son of the wind. … Read more
Medici Ermete, Reggiano Lambrusco DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) “i Quercioli” NV
($12, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lambrusco is making a dramatic comeback, judging from restaurants in New York City and elsewhere. Diligence and persistence by producers such as Medici Ermete has shown the world the joys of Lambrusco. An equal blend of Lambrusco Marani and Lambrusco Salamino, i Quercioli is a faintly fizzy, dark, almost purple, red wine with a delicate sweetness and gripping acidity. … Read more