Category Archives: Reviews

Goldeneye, Anderson Valley (Mendocino, California) Pinot Noir Split Rail Vineyard 2015

($84):  Goldeneye’s single vineyard bottlings actually reflect the difference in sites.  Theirs is not a marketing ploy.  This one, for example, is denser and more concentrated, conveying more black rather than red fruit, compared to one from The Narrows Vineyard.  Yet it still conveys the delicacy that makes Pinot Noir so alluring. Read more

Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2014

($45):  Unlike a Riserva in Italy, Reserve on a label on a California wine has no legal meaning.  A winery can, and sometimes does, label their entire production, all several million bottles, as “reserve.”  Not so with Rodney Strong.  In this case, the winemaker selects the best barrels in the cellar and blends them to create a Reserve bottling. Read more

Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillon “Cuvée Guy Moreau” 2016

($75, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):  Fabien Moreau, the current winemaker, says that this portion of their plot in the Vaillon vineyard was planted by his grandfather, Guy, 83 years ago and contain the oldest vines of their estate.  Located on the steepest part of the slope, the vines have excellent exposure and drainage. Read more

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Lyndenhurst” 2014

($85):  I suppose you could call Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst their second wine.  The grapes used to make it come from their vineyards, presumably those that don’t make the cut for their flagship Spottswoode Cabernet, along with purchased fruit.  The incredible quality of this wine shows just how fabulous a producer Spottswoode is. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Yountville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon State Ranch 2015

($100):  Nickel & Nickel’s State Ranch Cabernet, from a vineyard just down the road from Oakville in Yountville, is similarly ripe and intense as their Sullenger.  But it’s rounder and more supple than the its brother from Oakville.   A combination of dark black fruit and mineral-like nuances makes for an appealing ying and yang of sweet and savory flavors. Read more

Rodney Strong, Sonoma County (California) “Upshot” Red Wine Blend 2015

($28):  The winery’s press release describes this wine as “a non-traditional blend.”  That’s an understatement.  With Zinfandel (44%), Merlot (29%), Malbec (15%), Petit Verdot (7%), rounded out with Riesling, it is like no blend I’ve encountered.  But that’s one of the things that great about New World wine — people are not afraid to experiment. Read more

Nickel & Nickel, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon John C. Sullenger Vineyard 2015

($100):  What I love about the Nickel & Nickel Cabernets is how they are all different.  Despite the same winemaking team using the same grape variety, the wines offer different flavor profiles, which supports the concept of terroir — that somehow the soil, climate, and exposure in the vineyard determines the character of the wine. Read more

Château de Fleurie, Fleurie (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015

($21, David Bowler Wine):  Sensational is the word that comes to mind when describing the 2015 vintage in Beaujolais.  Of course, we are talking about the cru of Beaujolais, the ten villages within that region whose wines stand apart from the remainder of the region, which explains why the name of the cru alone — without the word Beaujolais — appears on the label. Read more

Spottswoode, California (United States) Sauvignon Blanc 2016

($36):  It’s no secret that Spottswoode makes sensational Cabernet Sauvignon.  This excellent and stylish Sauvignon Blanc shows they are not a one-horse show.  The wine also reminds us to trust the producer rather than relying solely on the AVA (appellation).  Since 85 percent of the grapes did not come from one area (Sonoma County 60 percent with the remainder from Napa County), they were obligated to use the broader — and less prestigious — appellation, California. Read more

Simonsig Wine Estate, Western Cape (South Africa) “Kaapse Vonkel” Brut Rosé 2015

($25, Quintessential):  Winemakers can have difficulty taming Pinotage, a grape created by a genetic crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, when transforming it into red wine.  Simonsig has done a fabulous job using the grape in this rosé sparkling wine.  A blend Pinot Noir (63%), Pinotage (35%) and Pinot Meunier, this bubbly delivers subtle red fruit notes with exotic accents — which seem attributable to Pinotage’s contributions. Read more