($25): 
Growers in Moulin-à-Vent, the most robust of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, have embraced the concept of making wines from specific sites, just as in the Côte d’Or, their more famous neighbor in Burgundy to the north. En Mortperay is one such site, situated on the edge of the appellation, bordering Fleurie. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Dominique Piron, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Côte du Py 2017
($30): 
The Côte du Py is arguably the most famous climat or vineyard in Morgon and possibly all of Beaujolais. Composed of back stone, it can be home to power and dense wines that need considerable age before revealing their charms. … Read more
P. Ferraud & Fils, Morgon (Beaujolais, France) Les Charmes 2018
($20): 
Ferraud, though lacking a U.S. importer now, had been in this market for decades and is a well-established name with a proven track record. Yves-Dominique Ferraud told me he thought the 2018 vintage in Beaujolais was a combination of the ripeness of 2015 and the raciness of 2016.… Read more
Domaine Ruet, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) 2017
($23, Schatzi Wines): 
I recently tasted six Beaujolais from this producer, one made without added sulfur, from three different vintages, 2016, 2017 and 2018. They were stunning across the board and demonstrated the enormous talent at the domaine. They have just under 3 acres on the slopes of Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais. … Read more
Piron & Lameloise, Chénas (Beaujolais, France) “Quartz” 2016
($23): 
The Lameloise family, whose name is synonymous with fine dining because of their Michelin 3-star restaurant in nearby Chagny, owns the vineyard in Chénas, the smallest of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, while Dominique Piron makes the wines. Floral and elegant, it’s a graceful wine that dances on the palate. … Read more
Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (California) Syrah Steinbeck Vineyard 2017
($30): 
Syrah is a Janus-like wine, showing a plummy side when the grape is grown in warmer climes and peppery notes when those same grapes are planted in a cooler location. Gary Eberle, who must be a magician, has managed to combine both in this splendid Syrah. … Read more
Lievland Vineyards, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
($20, Vineyard Brands): 
This Cabernet over-delivers for the price. Perhaps it’s the inclusion of a little Cinsault (8%) and Shiraz (6%), but whatever it is, there is a fabulous combination of savory — black and green olive notes — intertwined with black fruit flavors. … Read more
Domaine du Landreau, Crémant de Loire (France) “Volage” Rosé Brut Sauvage NV
($28): 
This wonderful sparkler is not your typical Crémant de Loire Rosé. Made entirely from Cabernet Franc, it has all of the allure of the grape with power and depth. It’s been aged on the lees for 36 months, which imparts a lovely texture. … Read more
M. Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (France) “Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2017
($14): 
It should come as no surprise that Michel Chapoutier, one of the star producers in the Rhône Valley, can make lip-smacking, good wine elsewhere. In this case, the elsewhere is across the Rhône, further west in the south of France in Roussillon. … Read more
Louis Tête, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, France) Chante-Loup 2018
($15): 
Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus, or named villages of Beaujolais, is really a small mountain that emerges from Brouilly, another of the named villages. It has many lieux-dits (place names) on its slope. More and more, Beaujolais producers are identifying specific sites within the cru because they believe the wines are distinctive and reflect the site, just as in the rest of Burgundy. … Read more
Ruffino, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Riserva Ducale Oro” 2014
($41): 
Gran Selezione is a new category of Chianti Classico that is supposed to represent the pinnacle of a producer’s bottling. Whether it does is a matter of debate because some producers’ top wine from Chianti Classico region is not a Gran Selezione. … Read more
Tenuta di Capezzana, Carmignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa di Capezzana” 2016
($30): 
Capezzana is certainly among the top producers, if not the top one, in Carmignano, the DOCG that requires inclusion of Cabernet (either Sauvignon or Franc) in the blend with Sangiovese. Think of it as the original Super Tuscan. Capezzana is incredibly consistent, year after year, producing a beautifully balanced Carmignano that marries fruit and earth perfectly. … Read more
Château Lalande-Borie, Saint Julien, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($37): 
It’s not often you see Cru Classé Bordeaux that’s ready to drink for under $40. Although you won’t see Cru Classé on the label, Château Lalande-Borie was formerly a part of Château Lagrange, which was classified as a Cru Classé in 1855, which means that technically, it still is. … Read more
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint Julien, Médoc (Burgundy, France) “Croix de Beaucaillou” 2011
($50): 
In 1995, as part of his upgrading of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, Jean-Eugène Borie introduced a “second” wine, Croix de Beaucaillou, which since 2005 has been a separate wine made from a separate vineyard that lies half-way between Lalande-Borie and Ducru-Beaucaillou itself. … Read more
Château Ducluzeau, Listrac – Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2015
($27): 
Château Ducluzeau is a sleeper, in part, because the production is small, about 5,000 bottles annually. The 2015 is an extraordinary value, well worth the search. Owned by Bruno Borie’s mother (he’s the managing director of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou), it is uncommonly suave for a wine from Listrac. … Read more
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2015
($60): 
Rocche dei Manzoni’s regular Barolo suffers only by comparison to their exquisite single vineyard bottlings. Indeed, it does this wine a disservice to taste it next to the others. This Barolo shows both the elegant, floral side characteristic of the DOCG as well as the power hidden under the surface. … Read more
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Bricco San Pietro, Vigna d’la Roul 2015
($90): 
Rocche dei Manzoni’s Bricco San Pietro is slightly denser than their Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano, but displays the same elegance and power. Glorious smoky and savory nuances accent and complement its gorgeous fruitiness. There’s not a hint of over-ripeness. … Read more
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Perno, Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano 2015
($105): 
As my colleague Michael Franz points out, you need to select your 2015 Barolo carefully. The warmth of the growing season resulted in some spectacular wines, while others might be a little over the top and lacking acidity if growers waited too long to harvest. … Read more
Domaine de Montredon, Picpoul de Pinet AOC (Languedoc, France) 2018
($15): 
Picpoul de Pinet is a name to remember for lively and taut white wines. Made exclusively from the Picpoul grape, which literally means “stings the lip” because of its high acidity, it’s a perfect choice for the heat and humidity of summer. … Read more
Virgile Joly, Languedoc (France) “Le Joly Blanc!” 2017
($20): 
Though the Languedoc may be best known for its red wines, the whites have gotten better. Take this one, for example. Surprisingly fresh and lively for its southern origins, it delivers lovely weight and texture. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne that conveys a hint of stone fruit flavors with a lovely citrus tang. … Read more
Joseph Perrier, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Royale” Brut NV
($42): 
The Champagne firm of Joseph Perrier, founded in 1825, has no relation to Perrier-Jouët or Laurent Perrier. Joseph Perrier produces a graceful and precise non-vintage brut from roughly equal amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It’s a joy to sip and drink, in part, I suspect because it typically includes 20 percent of reserve wines. … Read more
Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée des Moines” Rosé NV
($61): 
Grace and power is what comes to mind while sipping this Rosé Champagne. The power comes from the red grape-dominant (70 percent), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, blend. Chardonnay provides the elegance. Full-bodied, but not flamboyant, it delivers hints of strawberries and other red fruit flavors. … Read more
Fortress, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($20): 
The name describes the wine. Big and bold, the tannins are suave, which makes it fine to drink now. Its ripeness imparts a hint of sweetness in the finish. It would be a good choice for highly flavored grilled beef or lamb, even in barbeque sauce.… Read more
Lievland Vineyards, Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Old Vines 2017
($16, Vineyard Brands): 
Chenin Blanc can be one of the great white wines of the world. Its problem, similar to Riesling, another spectacular white wine, is that the wines range from dry to sweet and that the style is often not apparent from looking at the label, confusing the consumer. … Read more
Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence (France) 2016
($17): 
A blend of the usual Mediterranean grapes, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan, and Mourvèdre, this charming wine has more finesse than you might expect from wines from this sun-soaked part of France. It delivers a winning combination of bright red fruit-like notes, herbal nuances and spice. … Read more
Mas de la Dame, Alpilles IGP (Provence, France) “La Gourmande” Rouge 2017
($15): 
Sitting at the base of the Alpilles (little Alps) in Provence, practically adjacent to Les Baux de Provence, the vineyards of Mas de la Dame are some of the most beautifully situated ones in all of France. The near constant “mistral” wind makes organic viticulture there easier, which explains why this wine is made from organically grown grapes. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2015
($100): 
A younger, more angular version of Matanzas Creek’s splendid 2012 version, the 2015 has less complexity and fewer savory notes at this stage. The tannins are a hint more apparent and perhaps a touch aggressive, yet the balance is still wonderful. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) “Journey” Red Wine 2012
($100): 
From the minute I pulled the bottle from its carton, I wanted to dislike it. A hundred bucks for a heavy bottle. Not a good start. But that’s why you taste. Labeled simple, “Red Wine,” it’s a Merlot-heavy blend that conveys a lot of everything — dark fruit, earthy notes — and wonderful harmony. … Read more
Kim Crawford, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($13, Constellation Brands): 
Kim Crawford’s Sauvignon Blanc moderates its cutting nature with riper fruitier notes. It’s a softer, gentler expression of New Zealand’s signature wine, which is a wonderful introduction to the style and a great bargain.
89 Michael Apstein May 21, 2019… Read more
Jordan Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($34): 
In a word, gorgeous. Balanced, with a touch of smoke, a touch of fruitiness and great bracing citrus acidity, which amplifies the enjoyment. The subtle fruitiness is captivating. There’s no heaviness here. The freshness keeps it intriguing throughout the meal. … Read more
Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
($57): 
An early harvest and a short crop describes the 2015 vintage in Sonoma. The warmth that causes an early harvest and a reduced yield can result in concentrated, powerful wines. To Jordan’s credit, they maintained their restrained style that focuses on elegance rather than weight in this Cabernet. … Read more
Wither Hills, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($14): 
“Bottled electricity” describes this wine. Consumers will either love it or hate because of its lapel-shaking cutting verve. Mouth-cleansing, with the characteristic grapefruit or lime-like freshness, it would be a great choice for oysters, other seafood, or sushi. Frankly, its edginess will cut through even a tomato-based seafood stew. … Read more
Lucien Muzard et Fils, Santenay Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Maladière Vieilles Vignes 2017
($42, Polaner Selections): 
The 2017 red Burgundies fall into two categories: forward and charming ready-to-drink wines and more structured ones suitable for the cellar. This Santenay falls into the first category. I attribute its amazing gracefulness, especially for Santenay, to the old vines in the hands of a talented producer. … Read more
Arnaldo-Caprai, Montefalco Rosso (Umbria, Italy) 2015
($21, Wilson Daniels): 
The wines from Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG are powerful and tannic red wines that need years, if not a decade, to be ready to drink. If there were ever a need for a “rosso,” that is, a wine from a region that is ready to drink sooner (think Rosso di Montalcino) it is from this region. … Read more
Gulfi, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily, Italy) 2017
($22): 
Regulations require that Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only DOCG wine, be made from a blend of Nero d’Avola (50-70%) and Frappato. Gulfi, one of the island’s best producers, uses equal parts for this wine. It’s explosive, in a very delicate way. … Read more
Bisol, Prosecco (Italy) “Jeio” Brut NV
($14, Wilson Daniels): 
Prosecco has become so popular that its name has become synonymous with sparkling wine, replacing “Champagne” as that moniker. For example, on a recent flight when I requested a sparkling wine, I was offered a “Prosecco,” which turned out to be a Cava. … Read more
Nicholas Maillet, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) “Le Chemin Blanc” 2017
($42, Polaner Selections): 
Though the 2017 vintage in Burgundy was stylistically inconsistent for reds, the white Burgundies were generally better and more consistent. And that’s true for the white wines from the Mâconnais. Fortunately, and luckily for consumers, Maillet recently has started bottling their wines instead of selling them to the local co-op. … Read more
Ballot Millot, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2017
($31, Polaner Selections): 
Ballot Millot, a small grower based in Meursault, makes a consistently good line-up of Burgundy, both red and white. With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, consumers need to look to Burgundies with less prestigious labels, such as Bourgogne Blanc instead of Meursault. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) La Croix Blanche 2012
($70): 
Though not the current release, consumers need to be aware of this wine since it is still available. Domaine Parent, clearly one of the top growers in Pommard, opts to bottle this village wine separately because Anne Parent, who runs the domaine with her sister, Catherine, believes it is distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Langoureau, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Piece Sous le Bois 2016
($60): 
The vineyards of Blagny, a hamlet located high on the slope in Puligny-Montrachet, spread over both that village and the village of Meursault. So, it’s not surprising that the wines from Meursault-Blagny have a mineral-like resemblance to those from Puligny. … Read more
Domaine Joblot, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) “L’Empreinte” 2017
($47, Polaner Selections): 
With the sky-high prices of wines from the Côte d’Or, consumers who love the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based wines from Burgundy must look elsewhere within that region. Givry, in the Côte Chalonnaise, is a good place to start, especially with the wines from Domaine Joblot, one of the top producers in the appellation. … Read more
Trapet Père et Fils, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) “A Minima” 2017
($28, Polaner Selections): 
Trapet Père et Fils, one of the great growers based in Gevery-Chambertin, makes outstanding wines from that village and neighboring villages, such as Marsannay. They also make this under-the-radar wine with an eye-catching nearly blank label with tiny letters.… Read more
Hacienda Grimon, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2016
($20): 
This is the kind of wine that makes Rioja so popular. Nothing sticks out in this harmonious mid-weight wine. The balance of fruit and savory notes reminds you it’s not a fruit bomb. The flavors imparted by oak aging are subtle and integrated nicely. … Read more
Ca’ di Rajo, Prosecco Treviso (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($20): 
Prosecco has taken the world by storm, which means the quality varies from awful to innocuous to very good. Put Ca’ di Rajo’s in the latter category. Weighing in at only 11 percent-stated alcohol, it is, amazingly, both fruity and dry. … Read more
Cantine San Marzano, Salento (Puglia, Italy) Malvasia Nera “Talò” 2017
($17, San Marzano USA): 
Puglia, in Italy’s heel, is home to rich red wines, in part, because of the area’s warmth and sunshine. It is also home to lots of small grape growers, many of whom are interested in making wine. … Read more
E. Guigal, Condrieu (Rhône Valley, France) 2016
($61, Vintus): 
Condrieu is a small, 500-acre, appellation just south of Côte Rôtie on the western bank of the Rhône River that produces only white wine made from the Viognier grape. The clone, or bio-type, of Viognier in Condrieu is smaller and lower yielding than Viognier planted elsewhere, which helps explain the expense of the wine. … Read more
E. Guigal, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône Valley, France) 2017
($42, Vintus): 
Guigal, based in the northern Rhône village of Ampuis, has made Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the southern Rhône’s most famous wine, since the 1940s. But this 2017 is their first white Châteauneuf du Pape. White Châteauneuf du Pape is unusual, since about 95 percent of the appellation’s production is red. … Read more
Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2016
($35, Vineyard Roads):
This is a fabulous value. Benjamin Leroux, the former winemaker at Comte Armand, the famed Pommard property, established his own estate in 2007. Now, like many small estates, has both his own grapes and buys some from growers he’s known over the years. Benjamin Leroux, Auxey-Duresse (Burgundy, France) 2016
($45, Vineyard Roads): 
Auxey-Duresses, a village slightly off Burgundy’s the beaten track, offers great values precisely for that reason. This white Burgundy punches far above its lowly village appellation, delivering bright and cutting minerality along with a hint of creaminess. Another bargain for what it is and another case in my cellar.… Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): 
This glossy Pinot Noir is pure, clean and fruit-focused. Its soft and fleshy texture, supple tannins and a hint of sweetness in the finish make it perfect for drinking now, even as a stand-alone aperitif.
88 Michael Apstein Mar 26, 2019… Read more