($52, Vineyard Brands): Girardin makes little or no wine from premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, opting to buy grapes from growers who own plots classified simply as Chambolle-Musigny, presumably because he feels they deliver better value. I hate to classify a $50 wine as a ‘value wine,’ but considering Burgundy, especially in the 2005 vintage, it probably is. … Read more
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Bruno Clair, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Les Veroilles 2005
($60, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this wine has all the style and class of one. The aromatics predict a lovely wine and in this case, the nose does not lie. Supple silky tannins surround a lush mixture of ripe black and red fruit flavors. … Read more
A tale of two Bordeaux: Aside from the top chateaus, the region’s producers struggle to be relevant
Perusing the selection at a Cannes wine shop, I noticed a group of Japanese businessmen. Among the shop’s selection of upscale wines — such as Cristal and grand cru Burgundies — one gentleman selected two bottles of 1995 Cheval Blanc, one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines (for just over $600 a bottle).… Read more
Girardin, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Emotion de Terroirs” 2005
($24, Vineyard Brands): In really great years, such as 2005, the wines from the lowliest appellations, such as this Bourgogne Rouge, are particularly attractive. Girardin has managed to craft a wine with New World intensity while retaining the earthy character of Burgundy. … Read more
Thierry & Pascale Matrot, Blagny (Burgundy, France) La Piéce Sous le Bois 2005
($52, Vineyard Brands): Red wine grown in Blagny, a village that straddles Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, is sold as Blagny, whereas the whites (made from Chardonnay) are sold under the name Meursault-Blagny. Matrot is the largest grower of Blagny and, in a way, it is the flagship wine. … Read more
Aussies Could Conquer the Riesling World…Or Blow It
One of the paradoxes of the wine world is the discrepancy between wine writers’ and consumers’ love for Riesling. Wine writers love it. Every time I have dinner with a group of my wine writing colleagues, someone invariably orders Riesling, usually with unanimous agreement from others. … Read more
2006 Red Bordeaux Reviews
The Red Wines:
L’Angelus (St. Emilion) 2006: Hubert de Boüard de Laforest, who, along with his cousin, Jean-Bernard Grenié, runs L’Angelus, told me that a gentle extraction was critical in 2006. They performed most of the extraction early, during fermentation, when the alcohol (which is a solvent) was low to minimize extracting bitter tannins.… Read more
Bordeaux 2006: Variable, with Superb Peaks
Variable is the best way to describe the 2006 vintage in Bordeaux–except for the dry whites, which are consistently excellent. That’s my assessment after tasting about 250 wines–all barrel samples–in Bordeaux last month. Some properties, such as Château Mouton and Château Lafite Rothschild, made fabulous wines.… Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine, Part 2
John Larchet, an importer of Australian wines, and Bob Harkey, a wine retailer, both expressed the same troubling idea about Australian wines–albeit in very different ways.
Larchet (whose company, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, represents small Australian producers) described a gathering ‘storm cloud’ associated with the vast volume of Australian wines being sold here.… Read more
Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Tempranillo 2005
($10, Freixenet USA): Made by the Ferrer family who owns the Spanish sparkling wine (Cava) house, Freixenet, Tapeña Tempranillo is an easy-to-drink, fruit forward, cheery kind of wine. 86 Michael Apstein May 22, 2007… Read more
Bouchaine, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir 2005
($30): The cool Carneros region spans the southern ends of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys and is well suited for Pinot Noir, a variety that thrives in cooler climes. Bouchaine’s is a delightful combination of red fruit-strawberry, raspberry-like flavors–with just enough earthiness to keep it interesting.… Read more
Marques de Riscal, Vino de la Tierra Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Riscal 1860” 2005
($8, Shaw Ross International): Marques de Riscal is one of the leading Rioja producers. They have branched out from their Rioja home to create this Tempranillo-based wine from grapes grown in Spain’s vast central plateau, an area not well known for producing quality wine. … Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($15, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): Although Allan Scott has branched out with terrific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, his signature Sauvignon Blanc has not suffered. It remains one of the best Sauvignon Blancs coming from the Marlborough region. … Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Chardonnay “Unwooded” 2006
($15, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): In my opinion, with the exception of Chablis, Chardonnay usually needs a little oak aging or other techniques, such as malolactic fermentation or lees stirring, to add complexity, so I was skeptical about this wine. … Read more
Allan Scott, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2006
($22, Baystate Wine Company in MA, Henry Wine Group in CA): Pinot Noir is finally making a name for itself in Marlborough. As producers have planted clones more suitable for still rather than sparkling wines and the vines have matured, the quality of Pinot Noir coming out of Marlborough has increased dramatically. … Read more
Glen Carlou, Paarl (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon “Gravel Quarry” 2004
($45, Hess Imports): Juicy black cherry flavors, bright vibrant acidity and mild tannins make this a good choice for a steak tonight. With more acidity than many similarly styles wines from California, it will go better with–rather than before–dinner. 90 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007… Read more
Marques de Grinon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) “Caliza” 2004
($22, Moet Hennessy USA): Marques de Grinon’s estate, Dominio de Valdepusa, is considered one of Spain’s vinous gems. It was Spain’s first Denominación de Origen (DO) Pago, or officially recognized single estate. (To date there are still only two other estates). … Read more
Regional Diversity in Australian Wine
Every wine producer I met on my recent trip to Australia wanted to discuss regional diversity of Australian wines. They know that in order to grow, they need to expand beyond what they have already mastered: delivering wines that are simple, fruity, inexpensive, and easy-to-drink, with a cute critter on the label. … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) “Grange” 2002
($250): The release of Penfolds’ Grange each year on May 1st, after 5 years of aging, is a much anticipated event in Australia. Peter Gago, the winemaker responsible for Grange, says the 2002 is like the 1990 and 1996, ‘it’s all about poise and balance.’ … Read more
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004
($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004. The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines. According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Frequently known simply as Wynns’ Black Label in Australia, this is consistently one of that country’s great Cabernets. It’s track record for aging is matched only by a few of Penfolds’ legendary wines–Grange, St. Henri and Bin 707–though all of those ring up at considerably higher prices. … Read more
Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004
($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra. It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker. She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz 2004
($17, Brown Forman): In addition to Riesling, Clare Valley is known for producing fine, ripe, powerful Shiraz because of it’s warmer location. This one is deceptive because it has leathery and peppery flavors I usually associated with Shiraz grown in cooler climes. … Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Estate Series “Paretai” 2006
($18, Foster’s Wine Estates): Matua’s Paretai–which means river bank–is another extraordinary value from this producer. Their best Sauvignon Blanc, it has unusual texture and weight without sacrificing rapier-like acidity. Minerality and creaminess are intertwined creating complexity rarely seen at this price.… Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Estate Series” 2005
($20, Foster’s Wine Estates): The Marlborough region is battling Martinborough and Central Otago for the title of Pinot Noir capital of New Zealand. If the region keeps producing wines like this and at this price, it will be declared the winner. … Read more
Wakefield, South Australia (Australia) Riesling “Jaraman” 2005
($27, Brown Forman): Two-thirds of the fruit for this wine comes from Clare Valley and one third from the Eden Valley, but US labeling requirements prohibit dual appellations, so the wine is labeled simply South Australia. The Clare Valley produces more overt Rieslings, while Eden Valley Rieslings are known for their finesse and precision. … Read more
Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005
($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa. Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more
Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006
($12, Foster’s Wine Estates): With the soaring popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, it is increasingly difficult to find good, let alone terrific, ones at this price. So don’t miss this one. Although New Zealand’s best and most vibrant Sauvignon Blancs come from the Marlborough region, located on the South Island, it was Matua who started it all when they planted Sauvignon Blanc in 1970 at their home base, just west of Auckland on the North Island. … Read more
Super Tuscan producers size up Syrah
It was the first time I’ve been stopped by customs officials going into Italy. At Rome’s Leonardo di Vinci International Airport, the uniformed official looked up from his coffee and conversation with several co-workers as I pushed my luggage chart through the green — nothing to declare — channel.… Read more
Perrin et Fils, Vacqueyras (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Christins” 2005
($22, Vineyard Brands): Vacqueyras is a village in the southern Rhône Valley, formerly under the Côtes du Rhône Villages umbrella, that has convinced authorities that it makes more distinctive wines than the southern Rhône norm and should have its own appellation. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andeol” 2005
($19, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau is one of the 18 villages in the southern Rhone Valley that are capable of making more distinctive wine than the average for the region. Hence, it and the other 17 carry the village name on the label–as well as the appellation, Côtes du Rhône Villages–as opposed to the more anonymous, ‘Côtes du Rhone’ designation. … Read more
Perrin et Fils, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Reserve 2005
($11, Vineyard Brands): In addition to owning Château Beaucastel, one of the best properties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Perrin family runs a top-notch négociant business buying grapes or wine from growers with whom they have long term relationships. The Perrin Reserve Côtes du Rhône–always reliable–is even better in the 2005 vintage. … Read more
La Vieille Ferme, Côtes de Ventoux (Rhône Valley, France) 2005
($8, Vineyard Brands): As wines from the Côtes du Rhone appellation increase in price, producers look to less acclaimed nearby areas for similarly styled wines at lower prices. This wine from Côtes de Ventoux–simple but luscious–fits the bill as a satisfying Southern Rhône wine. … Read more
Clos Pegase, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2005
($33): Clos Pegase should be complimented for restraint with this stylish Pinot Noir. With more and more Pinots tasting like Pinot Syrah, it’s encouraging to see producers strive for restrained elegance rather than over-ripe intensity. Ripe raspberry-like fruitiness is the predominant impression, but black cherry nuances appear in the finish.… Read more
Whitehaven, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2005
($30, Whitehaven Wine Co. USA): Whitehaven Wine Company): This good, solid Pinot Noir is filled with bright cherry flavors balanced by excellent acidity. It lacks complexity at this stage, but is certainly satisfying now and I suspect it will evolve nicely over the next 6 months.… Read more
Craggy Range, Martinborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc Te Muna Road Vineyard 2006
($21, Kobrand): Craggy Range makes some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand. Combine their consistency with a superior vintage, such as 2006, and you have this remarkable wine. They have achieved a lovely balance between herbaceousness, a flinty minerality, and cutting citric acidity. … Read more
Mouton Cadet, Bordeaux (France) 2004
($12, North Lake Wines): This classic Bordeaux blend of two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc delivers more substance and elegance than you would expect from a ‘popular’ brand. Its suave tannins balance the moderate fruit and tobacco flavors. … Read more
Altano, Douro (Portugal) 2004
($7, Vineyard Brands): For a couple of decades, Port producers have been investing time 
and money to produce dry red table (non-fortified) wines from grapes traditionally grown in the Douro Valley, home to Port production. Their efforts are paying off. This attractive blend of classic grapes used for Port (Tinto Roriz and Touriga Franca, 40 and 60%, respectively) has produced a succulent, yet spicy, balanced wine.… Read more
Cousino-Macul, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Finis Terrae” 2004
($17, Billington Imports): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot is the flagship 
wine of Cousino-Macul, one of Chile’s leading wineries. I am continually amazed at how this winery produces such outstanding wine at such reasonable prices. It has understated class and finesse despite the 14% alcohol.… Read more
2005 Burgundies: Don’t Miss ’em, But Bring Your Wallet
Are the 2005 Burgundies as extraordinary as first reports indicate? The Burgundians themselves are heralding the 2005 vintage–but that’s not news in and of itself, since wine producers always rave about the vintage they have to sell. However, based on multiple tastings of 2005 Burgundies (during visits to the cellars of Bouchard Père et Fils, Louis Jadot, Louis Latour and Joseph Drouhin in Beaune last September, another visit to Beaune last month, samples from 20 producers imported by Frederick Wildman, and a retasting of Jadot’s wines in New York in January), I believe this is an extraordinary vintage for the reds and excellent one for the whites.… Read more
Spice Route, Swartland (South Africa) Mourvedre 2005
($20, Vineyard Brands): This South African Mourvedre conveys lovely earthy, herbal flavors in a supple package. It’s spicy and full-bodied without being overdone. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007… Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Costal Region (South Africa) Shiraz 2006
($13, Vineyard Brands): 
Earthy flavors mix with notes of spice in this boisterous wine. The tannins–ripe and unobtrusive–help balance the intensity. This is strong Shiraz, best enjoyed in cold weather or with hearty meals. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 10, 2007… Read more
Craggy Range, Gimblett Gravels (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand) Te Kahu Vineyard 2004
($25, Kobrand): Craggy Range emphasizes the uniqueness of place–like the French–and focuses their efforts on producing wines from individual (and presumably distinctive) vineyards. They emphasize this philosophy with the labeling: the precise composition of the blend–in this case Merlot, 77%, Cabernet Sauvignon, 11%, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, 6% each–is found on the back label. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2005
($28): Despite this wine’s ripeness, the overall impression of this wonderfully balanced wine is one of restrained fruitiness because the tannins lend structure often lacking in California Pinot Noir. Subtle cherry flavors are only one of the several red fruit flavors than come though. … Read more
Perrin & Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc “Les Sinards” 2005
($35, Vineyard Brands): With only about 5% of the area’s production devoted to white wine–
and much of that heavy and unappealing–one sometimes wonders why anyone bothers with white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This wine is why. A blend of 75% Grenache Blanc and 25% Clairette, it has the hint of apricot common in many whites from the southern Rhône, and good intensity, but without a trace of heaviness. … Read more
Yatir, Negev (Israel) Sauvignon Blanc 2005
($24, Royal Wine Corp.): Yatir Winery, a joint venture between grape growers and the Carmel Winery, one of Israel’s leading producers, is located on the edge of the Negev dessert, but the vineyards are more suitably located nearby at high elevations that actually see snow. … Read more
Carmel Winery, Judean Hills (Israel) Petit Syrah “Appellation” 2004
($27, Royal Wine Corp.): The Carmel Winery, originally founded with the help of Baron Edmond de Rothschild (Lafite), has reinvented itself from a purveyor of sweet wines for sacramental use to premium wines. They have several levels, from basic varietal wines to ones made from grapes from a single region, such as this one, to single vineyard wines. … Read more
Osborne, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Merlot/Tempranillo “Solaz” 2005
($8, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): This two-thirds Merlot and one-third Tempranillo blend is a charming wine. Supple, but not soft, the acidity keeps it fresh so you can keep tasting the black-cherry flavors. If it were Italian, I’d call it a good ‘pizza’ wine, but since it’s from Spain, think of it as a wine for tapas. … Read more
Marqués de Riscal, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 1999
($37, Shaw-Ross International): One of the great things about Spanish wines is that many producers age them for years–sometimes even decades–before release so the consumer has an opportunity to taste the complexity bottle aging imparts. This 1999 Gran Reserva, the current release, still has tannins of youth, but mature leather and coffee nuances peak out from under fresh dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Michel Redde, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “Les Tuilières” 2004
($25, Kobrand): Redde has captured the chalky minerality characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc grown in Sancerre with this wine. While there’s none of the pungent herbaceousness often seen with Sauvignon Blanc grown in the New World, there’s still plenty of vibrancy. It’s spicy and cutting without being shrill.… Read more