All posts by admin

Are Stags Leap District Wines Unique?

Everyone seems to agree that the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley is unique because of its topography, climate and soil.  The question remains whether that uniqueness translates into distinctive wines that reflect the site.

To test the theory, I spent two days in the Stags Leap District comparing the same vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon made from grapes grown in the Stags Leap District to those made from grapes grown in other California locales. … Read more

Ken Forrester, Stellenbosch (South Africa) Shiraz Grenache 2005

($20, Boutique Wine Collection): Forrester says his Grenache vineyard, almost 50 years old, is the only one in Stellenbosch because the remaining ones were pulled up during apartheid by the government-run wine monopoly.  That seems very unfortunate, judging from this wine, which manages to combine fresh fruit with slightly spiced gamey elements into a harmonious package. … Read more

American Viticultural Areas (AVAs): Do They Make Sense?

Americans have never been particularly adept at geography. Since most would fail to locate Kansas on an unlabeled map of the United States, how would they fare with finding Chambolle-Musigny? This is why the American practice of naming wines by grape name is so successful for marketing

However, winemakers everywhere–from California to France–insist that wine is ‘made in the vineyard,’ and that location matters.… Read more

Chateau St. Jean, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard 2006

($25): Certainly compared to the Robert Young Chardonnay (reviewed this week and previously), this is a full-blown–yet not ‘over the top’–Chardonnay.  A buttery, toasty quality seems to magnify the ripe tropical fruit flavors. Adequate citric-like acidity holds it all together and despite the richness and power, it’s not over done. … Read more

Howard Park, Western Australia (Australia) Chardonnay 2006

($30, Bluewater Wine Company): Wines from Western Australia, including their Chardonnays, do not fit the conventional mold for Australian wines.  The Chardonnays in general, like this one, are leaner–yet still flavor packed–and racier compared to their South Australian counterparts.  Howard Park, one of Western Australia’s top producers, has fashioned this wine with an almost Riesling-like vibrancy that complements the green appley flavors.… Read more

Age Matters

Everyone refers to “old vines” reverentially. The precise definition of ‘old’ varies enormously–legitimately depending on the varietal (Zinfandel and Pinot Noir do not have the same lifespan)–and more subjectively depending on whether you are speaking to a winemaker/viticulturist or someone in the marketing department.… Read more

Matua Valley, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2008

($13, Fosters Wine Estates): It’s ironic that New Zealand’s signature wine, Sauvignon Blanc, usually associated with the Marlborough region on the South Island, was actually introduced into the country by Matua Valley Winery on the North Island in the 1970s.  Matua has subsequently purchased vineyards in Marlborough and makes a terrific Sauvignon Blanc from grapes grown there. … Read more

Georges Descombes, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2006

($30): I know, 30 bucks for Beaujolais is a lot of money.  But, this is not your father’s grapey rendition.  Louis Dressner manages to find Beaujolais producers who make distinctive wines.  Those of you skeptical of the genre–that includes Michael Franz, my colleague and editor at WRO–really ought to try wines like this one. … Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Grancey” 2006

($120, Louis Latour Inc.): Corton, the only grand cru vineyard for red wine in the Cote de Beaune, is large and produces wines of variable quality.  Latour, the largest owner of the vineyard, makes one of the best.  Corton Grancey, a proprietary–not a plot–name, is a blend of wine from Latour’s best grand cru plots within the Corton vineyard. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005

($17): A blend of Merlot (83%), Syrah (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is easy to recommend.  The Syrah adds dark fruit character and a roasted quality, while even the seemingly trivial amount of Cabernet lends extra structure and support.  Despite the presence of those two varietals, the inherent lovely leafy or herbal qualities characteristic of Merlot are apparent. … Read more

Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine 2005

($75): Col Solare is a Cabernet Sauvignon based joint venture between the Tuscan producer, Antinori, and Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle.  The 2005, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc, is a gorgeous wine.  It’s an impeccably balanced seamless mixture of ripe black fruit and minerality supported by fine tannins and a perfect kick of black cherry acidity. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Colchagua Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2005

($17): This well-proportioned beautifully balanced Cabernet is a fabulous buy.  In addition to its succulent black fruit flavors, herbal, almost tobacco, notes delight the senses.  Not overly fruity or heavy, these non-fruit flavors persist into the long finish.  Supple fine tannins add to the polish and elegance of the wine.… Read more