($48, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Domaines Ott, perhaps the leading producer of Provence wines, acquired Château Romassan in the 1950s. In Bandol, as in the Rhone Valley, 2002 was a disaster for wines. Nonetheless, Château Romassan made an admirable Bandol that year, reminding us that vintage reputation alone never tells the entire story. … Read more
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Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006
($63, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Maume, a family run property, owns about 10 acres of vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. When young, Maume wines, like this one, emphasize power rather than finesse. In this case, there’s enormous concentration, more than you’d expect for a village wine, but at this stage the oak flavor and tannin is a little too prominent, which means it’s a good candidate for the cellar. … Read more
Domaine Catherine le Goeuil, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) “Cuvée Lea Felsch” 2006
($23, Kermit Lynch): This cuvée, the only one the producer makes, honors the current owner’s grandmother. She would be pleased. Made from a typical Mediterranean blend–mostly (55%) Grenache, with Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault comprising the remainder–it is a charmingly robust wine. Layers of black fruit flavors, spice, and herbal nuances are supported by moderate tannins. … Read more
Domaine de Gros Noré, Bandol (Provence, France) 2006
($44, Kermit Lynch): Bandol, a small appellation in the south of France where the Mourvedre grape is king, is known for ripe intense red wines, such as this one. This robust wine, with deep black fruit character and herbal touches, is nicely balanced except for the noticeable heat–that’s the 15% stated alcohol speaking–in the finish.… Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée La Migoua” 2006
($75, Kermit Lynch): This bottling comes from a separate, horseshoe-shaped hillside parcel separate from the Domaine that they acquired recently. Riper, with more punch, it is quite closed at this stage and seemingly lacks the complexity of their Cuvée Classique. It needs considerable time to unfold, as I’m sure it will given Domaine Tempier’s track record. … Read more
Domaine Tempier, Bandol (Provence, France) “Cuvée Classique” 2006
($50, Kermit Lynch): Domaine Tempier, arguably the best property in Bandol, is certainly responsible for introducing that appellation to American consumers. They produce this cuvée from several parcels spread around the appellation. Their Cuvée Classique has everything you’d want in Bandol, including layers of robust flavors tempered by fine tannins. … Read more
Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) 2006
($17, Kermit Lynch): In the local dialect, lascaux means limestone and refers to the local terrain. Unusual for the Languedoc, there is no Carignan in this blend, only Syrah and Grenache, which helps to explain the weight of this fragrant, polished wine. … Read more
Domaine d’Aupilhac, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) “Les Cocalieres” 2006
($39, Kermit Lynch): This, the domaine’s top-of the-line wine, comes from a separate parcel just outside the well-regarded Mont Peyroux area as opposed to a cellar selection of their ‘best’ wines. The higher altitude location of the vineyard means a cooler climate in this normally hot part of the south of France and explains the wine’s elegance and polish. … Read more
Château de Lascaux, Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc, France) Pic St.-Loup 2006
($18, Kermit Lynch): This wine is a poster boy for the French concept of terroir since the winemaking and blend is the same–60% Syrah and 40% Grenache–as in their regular Coteaux du Languedoc (also reviewed this week), but the flavors are markedly different. … Read more
North Star, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($41): One whiff tells you this is serious wine. The taste confirms it. This serious Merlot, a blend from14 vineyard sites around the Columbia Valley, is powerful, but not overdone. You barely notice its 14.7% stated alcohol, even in the finish.… Read more
An Early Overview of 2007 Burgundies
Even though it’s hard to recommend specific wines from the 2007 vintage at this stage because most are unfinished and still developing in barrel, an early assessment of the 2007 vintage in Burgundy is important because it helps determine a buying strategy now.… Read more
Domaine Maume, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2006
($32): Bourgogne Rouge is a category often overlooked (and rightly so) by consumers. But from good producers, such as Maume, these wines represent a good introduction to Burgundy and its Pinot Noir. Quite forward, this one is full of ripe good black cherry flavors and acidity and balanced by a hint of earthiness. … Read more
Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (Burgundy, France) 2006
($25, Kermit Lynch): More Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (a blend of at least one-third Pinot Noir and the remainder Gamay) is made than Bourgogne Rouge, but very little reaches our shores. It’s too bad because when well-made, like this one, it is a bright and juicy wine with refreshing rusticity perfect for current drinking with simple fare like a roast chicken.… Read more
Neil Ellis Wines, Western Cape (South Africa) “The Left Bank” 2007
($15, Vineyard Brands): The name, The Left Bank, presumably alludes to Bordeaux, but the blend there never includes Shiraz, which comprises a third of this wine–the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon (57%) and Merlot. (Chateau Palmer started producing a wine in 2004–called Historical XIX Century–that includes Shiraz in the blend, but can not be labeled Bordeaux, only Vin de Table). … Read more
North Star, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($60): In contrast to this brand’s Columbia Valley Merlot, this one from selected vineyards solely within the Walla Walla Valley emphasizes the minerality and succulent black fruit flavors of Merlot. The engaging herbal elements are still present, but more in the background in this dense, plush wine. … Read more
Erez, Galilee (Israel) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($15, Royal Wine Company): Every year we see more high-quality wines, such as this one, coming out of Israel, a place that seems ill suited for premium wine because of its climate. But, in fact, the Galilee plateau’s elevation accounts for its more moderate climate and explains why it’s a prime location for growing quality grapes. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Mudgee (New South Wales, Australia) Shiraz 2007
($20): Oatley is a huge name in the Australian wine industry, having founded Rosemount, a company whose wines helped spread the popularity of Australian wines in general. So when he starts a new label and chooses Mudgee, not the most well-known area in Australia for premium grapes, everyone takes notice. … Read more
Domaine Pierre Morey, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2006
($27, Wilson Daniels): The French are finally caving in to the idea of putting the grape name on the label — at least for their lower-level appellation controllée wines, such as this Bourgogne Rouge. Pierre Morey is one of the most talented and rigorous winemakers in Burgundy and this, his lowest level wine, speaks to his ability. … Read more
Juno Wine Co., Western Cape (South Africa) Shiraz “Cape Maidens” 2008
($10, Confluence Wine Importers): 
This is the showiest of Juno’s ‘Cape Maidens’ line of wines, which feature label art by well known South African artist Tertia du Toit. In the case of this wine, her rendering of a voluptuous maiden is matched by a pretty voluptuous wine, as this shows fleshy, ripe berry fruit. … Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “Estate” 2006
($35): Domaine Carneros, the California outpost of the Champagne firm Taittinger, makes excellent sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, so it comes as no surprise that they should also try their hand at still wines from those varietals. Their Estate Pinot Noir, the lower of two tiers of Pinot, emphasizes the pure, cherry-like fruit aspect characteristic of many California renditions of this grape variety. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “8 Songs” 2004
($38, The Hess Group): Although this very ripe Shiraz highlights the plummy aspect of the varietal, it conveys a subtle pepperiness in the finish. Despite the 14.5% alcohol, it is balanced, not ‘over the top.’ This big, bold, juicy Shiraz should have widespread appeal.… Read more
Domaine Carneros, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir “The Famous Gate” 2006
($68): This wine, Domaine Carneros’s super-duper cuvee, undoubtedly a blend of their best barrels, has the graceful marriage of fruit and earth flavors you’d expect from a top-end Pinot Noir. It shows more complexity and haunting non-fruit nuances, but less of the direct sweet cherry-like flavors than their regular ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir (also reviewed this week). … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($16, Pasternak Wine Imports): Albrecht has fashioned a lovely dry Riesling that finds a mid-ground between the enamel-cleansing character of some and the soupy sweetness of others. Plump apple flavors allow you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif, but the hallmark acidity of Riesling means it will hold up nicely through a meal. … Read more
What Does a Medal Mean?
With the recent completion of the Olympics, we are reminded of the incredible skill, precision and commitment it takes to win a medal, competing against the best in the world. An Olympic bronze medal–recognizing one the third best in the world at one’s sport–is high praise indeed.… Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2005
($60): Often times Cabernet-blended wines show more complexity than wines made from any of the single Bordeaux varieties. The flavor profile of Merlot or Cabernet Franc, in particular, seems to be an especially well-suited foil to Cabernet. But in this case, Rodney Strong’s Symmetry–a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Malbec (3%)–takes a back seat to their excellent Alexander Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Syrah 2007
($13, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s leading producers, is a consistent source of good wine at an excellent price. This Syrah has a dollop of gamey flavors and a touch of bacon fat as counterweight to its overall ripeness. … Read more
Louis Latour, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2006
($75, Louis Latour Inc.): Wines from Les Caillerets, one of Chassagne-Montrachet’s most refined 1er cru, often have more finesse than most of the wines from that village, which tend to be a bit earthier. Latour’s fits that mold, delivering elegance more associated with Puligny- than Chassagne-Montrachet. … Read more
Campania’s world-class white wines
Taurasi, Campania’s best wine, has a powerful allure. Years ago, I spotted one on the shelf of a simple seafood trattoria outside of Naples, where instead of a wine list the choices were arrayed on a shelf. I asked for this sturdy red even though we had ordered grilled langoustine.… Read more
Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005
($22): Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain’s Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region. Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra–analogous to a French Vin de Pays–can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor. … Read more
Conde de la Salceda, Rioja (Spain) Reserva 2000
($43, Kobrand): Originally founded in 1647 in Navarra, Bodegas Julián Chivite expanded into Rioja in 1998 when they purchased the Conde de la Salceda estate. This, their top wine, is aged in small French barriques for 18 months and even at 7years of age, the oak influence is still quite prominent. … Read more
Roda, Rioja (Spain) 2002
($42, Kobrand): Roda–the name comes from the first initials of the two owners’ names, Mario Rottlant and Carmen Daurella–is another new-wave winery in the Old World. But this ‘modern’ style of Rioja, a blend of Tempranillo (94%), Garnacha (4%) and Graciano, has its feet firmly planted in tradition with impeccable balance. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht’s combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. … Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Reserve 2006
($18, Pasternak Wine Imports): Alsace Riesling usually highlights the mineral aspect of the varietal compared with the more floral expression of German Riesling. Albrecht’s combines the best of both. Less floral than many, the minerality extends onto the palate and intermingles with attractive spice. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006
($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is. And that’s a shame because it’s a wine whose name is worth remembering. Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal. … Read more
Wine Cellar 101
With the current economic downturn forcing people to cut back at all levels, perhaps it’s foolhardy to suggest that now is the time to start a wine cellar. But paradoxically, now is a perfect time.
I’m not suggesting investing $10,000 or more in beautifully stained wooden racks, recessed lighting and an insulated, temperature-controlled room.… Read more
Wolf Trap, Western Cape (South Africa) Syrah, Mourvedre, Viognier 2007
($10): Boekenhoutskloof, one of South Africa’s star producers, acts as a négociant–they buy young wine from others and then blend and age it–for this bargain-priced delight. Aromatic from Viognier, it conveys fresh fruit, a hint of bacon fat and gamey flavors–Syrah and Mourvédre speaking–that give it remarkable complexity for the price.… Read more
Matariki, Hawke’s Bay (New Zealand) “Quintology” 2004
($30, Pasternak Wine Imports): Hawke’s Bay, a relatively warmer area on New Zealand’s North 
Island, is making a name for itself as a place for high quality red grapes. This hodge-podge blend of Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (12%) and Malbec (10%) actually works. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11, Vineyard Brands): The Porcupine Ridge label from Boekenhoutskloof, a consistently good South African producer, is a reliable source of inexpensive wines. This tightly-wound Sauvignon Blanc has a distinctly grassy nose and more flavor in the mid-palate than most comparably priced wines made from this grape. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005
($50): Although this concentrated style of Cabernet emphasizes ripe primary fruit, it is not overdone or over-extracted. Mellow tannins complement the sweet succulent fruit. At this stage, it lacks complexity, but since it is balanced, additional flavors will likely emerge over time, so there’s rush. … Read more
Porcupine Ridge, Coastal Region (South Africa) Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
($10, Vineyard Brands): 
Boekenhoutskloof opts–for obvious reasons–for easier to pronounce names, such as Porcupine Ridge, for its more popularly-priced wines. This Cabernet has ripeness and weight that borders on over-ripeness, but freshness imparted by lively acid in the finish holds the wine together. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Mentor” 2004
($38, Hess Imports): Although best known for Shiraz, the Barossa is an excellent site for Cabernet Sauvignon as well. The very ripe fruit notes border on pruney, but the overall flavor profile is quite broad, with hints of cedar and smoke. … Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) “Eight Songs” 2004
($55, Hess Imports): A deep, dark Shiraz with plenty of power, Lehmann’s Eight Songs bottling has supple tannins. The 14.5% alcohol is not out of place here because of the ripe, concentrated black fruit elements. Emphasizing the juicy plummy side of Shiraz rather than the spice, this wine has remarkable smoothness and will appeal to those who value intensity over elegance.… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Stonewell” 2004
($75, Hess Imports): 
This, Peter Lehmann’s top end Shiraz, is a remarkable example of Barossa Shiraz at its best. Concentrated and intense as expected given the origin, it’s the vibrancy and layers of flavors–black cherry, mint and other herbs–that make it notable. … Read more
A Wine Lover’s Guide to Boston and Western Massachusetts
“You have a finite number of meals in your life, so don’t waste one.” This is a guiding principle for me, as I take food very seriously. However, finding satisfying restaurants when traveling to unfamiliar cities can be a challenge, especially if the wine list plays an important role in your choice. … Read more
Hospices de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Charlotte Dumay” 2005
($135, Brown Forman): All wines from the Hospices de Beaune are made by the Hospices’ winemaker and then sold to a firm, such as Michel Picard in this case, which finishes the aging, known as élevage. (The name of the firm performing the élevage appears at the bottom of the label). … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2007
($22): Cadaretta, founded only in 2005 (they’re just planting their first vineyards this year) is, judging from this wine, a welcome addition to the Washington wine industry. Taking a cue from the Australians who name the wine and describe the blend by using initials, Cadaretta combines Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Semillon to make this bright and zesty wine. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) “Semi-Dry” Riesling 2006
($18): Dr. Frank succeeds with Riesling that retains a dollop of residual sugar because sufficient acidity keeps it fresh, not cloying. It may lack the engaging minerality and length of Frank’s Dry Riesling, but it is an excellent choice for spicy Asian fare, where a touch of sweetness is welcome to cut the bite of the food. … Read more
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Pinot Gris 2006
($23): Although the Finger Lakes region of New York is known for stunning Riesling, this Pinot Gris shows the potential for that varietal in the region as well. Bone dry, with nuances of spiced pear and good density, it is clearly a Pinot Gris–not a Pinot Grigio–style of wine and a very good one at that. … Read more