($13, Banfi Imports): Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a light white wine, was the first to be awarded DOC status in 1966. Despite that accolade, it seems to have lost panache, which is too bad because it’s a great choice for a multitude of lighter styled seafood dishes. … Read more
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Val delle Rose, Morellino di Scansano Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009
($22, Banfi Imports): Though Tuscan and made from Sangiovese, the wines from Morellino di Scansano are far different from those of the Chianti region. The 2009 Val delle Rose Riserva is an excellent example, focusing more on dark, Bing cherry-like flavors more than the earthy spicy ones found in Chianti. … Read more
Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010
($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region. This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes. Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010
($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone. This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more
Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($25, MW Imports): Monsanto, a Tuscan producer that consistently turns out stellar wines, eschews the use of “international” varieties in their Chianti Classico. Monsanto’s 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, a traditional blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino, delivers a wonderful combination of cherry-like fruitiness and spicy earthiness. … Read more
Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Poggio” 2009
($55, MW Imports): Il Poggio, a 13-acre single-vineyard that sits about 1,000 feet above sea level, is the source of Monsanto’s flagship wine. The 2009, from a ripe vintage, is positively explosive with a captivating smoky and mineraly quality. Racy acidity balances the ripeness so there’s no mistaking it for anything but great Chianti Classico. … Read more
Fontodi, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2010
($35, Vinifera Imports): Combine a top vintage, 2010 in Tuscany, and a top Chianti Classico producer, Fontodi, and you get, not surprisingly, a top wine. There is plenty of deep red, almost black fruit flavors here and enough earthy spice and acidity to remind you this is still Chianti Classico — a very complex one at that. … Read more
Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) 2011
($23, Palm Bay International): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only wine to be awarded the DOCG status, is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Planeta’s 2011 begs for springtime with its fresh cherry-like aromas and taste. The paucity of tannins in this charming red makes it perfect for chilling and a more substantial alternative to rosé when the weather and the food call for one.… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011
($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up. This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2012
($20, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Olivier Leflaive, a talented négociant based in Puligny-Montrachet, consistently produces top-notch white Burgundies at all levels. This east-to-enjoy Bourgogne Blanc, though coming from the low end of the prestige ladder, delivers far more than you’d expect from the price.… Read more
Stéphane Aviron, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Frederick Wildman & Sons): The yields in Beaujolais in 2012, were, like everywhere else in Burgundy, down dramatically. Stéphane estimates that the average yield in 2012 for Beaujolais in general was about 27 hl/ha, or half normal, which is both good and bad. … Read more
Frankland Estate, Frankland River Region (Western Australia) “Olmo’s Reward” 2009
($55, Quintessential Wines): A Bordeaux-styled blend of 70% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot, and 7% each of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a tightly wound wine, full of flavor now but brimming with yet unrealized potential. Definitely a candidate for long (seven to ten years) cellaring, it’s a keeper.… Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “La Framboisière” 2012
($31, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Domaine Faiveley, a leading Burgundy estate and négociant, owns a substantial amount of choice vineyards in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. This village wine from their vineyards, dubbed La Framboisière, is always one of their successes. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2011
($20): This Pouilly Fuissé from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producer, is a “go-to” bottling when looking for a Chardonnay-based wine. Crisp, and clean with a hint of creaminess, it shows the elegance and allure of white Burgundy. Unlike many New World Chardonnays, it’s not opulent. … Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard “Block 6” 2012
($60): Jake Fetzer, who along with his brother, Ben, run Masút Vineyard and Winery, explains that each year they select a wine from one of the blocks in their estate vineyard that they think has done very well and bottle a portion of it separately. … Read more
Masút Vineyard and Winery, Mendocino County (California) Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard 2012
($40): Jacob and Ben Fetzer have their work cut for them. As grandchildren of the famed Barney Fetzer, who founded Fetzer Winery and put Mendocino County on the world’s wine map, they have big shoes to fill. Judging by this Pinot Noir, they are up to the challenge and will succeed. … Read more
Château Lestage Simon, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($20, Advantage International): A Cru Bourgeois, which is a classification level just under the Cru Classé, Château Lestage Simon is an excellent example of what Bordeaux does very well. It balances plenty lush fruit flavors (a predominance of Merlot speaking) with hints of savory notes and a lovely austerity. … Read more
Why Wine Prices Are Rising
I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more
Rutherford Grove, Rutherford (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($45): Practically a single vineyard wine — the two vineyards that provide fruit are less that 250 yards apart in the Rutherford Bench and are composed of the same gravelly loam soil — this bottling speaks with precision and focus. It delivers ripe, but not jammy, black fruit enrobed in silky tannins. … Read more
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Misterra” 2012
($50): You’d expect that J Vineyards, one of California leading sparkling wine producers, would know about Pinot Noir since they use that grape in their bubbly. And judging from Misterra, a blend of Pinot Noir (90%), Pinot Meunier and Pinotage, they do. … Read more
Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($60): Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of California’s great producers of Cabernet Sauvignon, seems to fly under the radar for reasons I don’t understand. Except for a tiny amount of rosé, Laurel Glen makes only Cabernet Sauvignon — and superb Cabernet at that — and they sell them at reasonable prices. … Read more
Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($35): This lush Cabernet has plenty of concentration, a whiff of vanilla from oak aging and mild tannins, making it lovely for current consumption. Herbal notes add complexity. Its depth and polish make it a good choice for a steak this winter.… Read more
Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Counterpoint” 2011
($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker. Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success. Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Fumé Blanc 2012
($30): I’ve always considered Grgich Hills Estate one of California’s top producers. I expect their wines to be distinctive. Despite their fantastic track record, successive bottlings continue to thrill. Take this 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. It’s fabulous — creamy, mineraly, with just the perfect hint of pungency. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Essence” 2012
($50): As impressive as Grgich’s Fumé Blanc-labeled Sauvignon Blanc is, this one, labeled Essence, a selection of their best lots, is even better. What’s amazing is that Grgich has amplified all the components of their regular (though it’s not at all a “regular” wine) Sauvignon Blanc bottling while maintaining its impeccable balance. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($13): The price belies the quality of this Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Horse Heaven Hills bottling delivers the expected grapefruit-like pungency of Sauvignon Blanc, but with a dividend of richness and depth often lacking in wines made from that grape.… Read more
Cuatro Rayas, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo “Viñedo Centenarios” 2012
($13): The sensory paradox of an impression of sweetness from the nose and the mouth-cleansing acidity is one of the charms of this Rueda. The floral nature — honeysuckle and other white flowers — makes you think it’s a sweet wine. … Read more
Are Barrel Tastings Worthwhile?
Every spring, as predictably as the blooming of daffodils, journalists and merchants attend the en primeur tastings in Bordeaux and bombard us with reams of tasting notes. These tastings, organized by the Bordeaux producers, show the new vintage, while it is still aging in barrel. … Read more
St. Supéry, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($20): St. Supéry has fashioned a bright and zippy Sauvignon Blanc that has enough creaminess and body to offset the inherent pungency that grape delivers. This nicely balanced wine would be a good choice for sushi.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014… Read more
Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state. The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay. … Read more
Redbank, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay “The Long Paddock” 2011
($15, Negociants USA): The conventional wisdom is that Australia Chardonnays are ripe, big and in your face. Well, it turns out that conventional wisdom is wrong in this case (and in many others when it comes to Australian wine). Victoria’s relatively cool climate compared to most of Australian grape growing areas is readily apparent in this Chardonnay and explains the wine’s alluring and captivating delicacy and enticing creaminess. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($15, Allan Scott USA): I have been — and still am — an admirer and fan of Alan Scott’s wines, having followed them over the years. He was one who showed the world the uniqueness and potential of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Ata Rangi, Martinborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Crimson” 2012
($30, Epic Wines): Martinborough on New Zealand’s Northern Island and Central Otago on the Southern Island are the places for Pinot Noir in that, although you’d get an argument from the growers in Marlborough for failing to include that region. But no one would disagree that Ata Rangi is one of the country’s star producers. … Read more
Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2011
($18, Allan Scott Wines USA): Allan Scott was among the early pioneers in Marlborough showing how that region could excel with Sauvignon Blanc. He is now showing what the region can do with Pinot Noir. His 2011, perhaps his best ever, is an impeccably balanced combination of pristine fruitiness and savory earthy nuances. … Read more
Jacquart, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Mosaïque” Brut NV
($36, JAD Imports): Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne. This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance. Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink–and a very fine one at that — but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. … Read more
Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV
($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance. This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more
Apstein’s Winery of the Year 2013: Mastroberardino
Mastroberardino is my Winery of the Year for 2013 because it excels, not only by consistently making a fine range of wine, but also by preserving history. … Read more
Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Blanc 2012
($23): It’s a pleasure to find a California Pinot Blanc that strikes the right balance. There can be a temptation to beef up this delicate wine either by using super ripe grapes or overwhelming it with barrel aging. Valley of the Moon has avoided both. … Read more
Foley Johnson, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($75): The Foley Johnson interpretation of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon focuses more on fruit than on earthy notes. Ripe sweet red, almost strawberry-like, fruit buttressed by fine suave tannins makes it easy to love. There’s a lovely purity and focus in this wine that makes it very appealing for current consumption.… Read more
Monticello Vineyards, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Tietjen Vineyard 2010
($72): The Rutherford section of Napa Valley is rightly known to be an ideal place for Cabernet Sauvignon. The line-up of wines from the Rutherford Dust Society — a group of producers who make wines from Rutherford grown fruit — shows the uniqueness of the region. … Read more
Quintessa, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) 2010
($135): Combine a great producer, Agustin Huneeus and his team, with a great place, Rutherford, and bingo — you get great wine. The 2010 Quintessa delivers a little bit of everything — fruit, herbs, earth, minerals — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2010
($35): Though best known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Grgich makes a stylish and dare I say, refined, Zinfandel. It has plenty of up-front fruit and briary spice, as befitting a Zinfandel. But what sets it apart is its lack of flamboyance. … Read more
Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Petite Sirah Miljenko’s Vineyard 2009
($60): If anyone needed additional proof (I don’t) that Grgich Hills is a brilliant producer — one of California’s best — they should try this Petite Sirah. It’s a category I try to avoid judging at wine competitions because most Petite Sirah are massive and ponderous, lacking finesse and complexity I value and look for. … Read more
Tomero, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontés 2012
($17, Blends Inc.): Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, with its lightness and delicacy, is at the opposite end of the spectrum from that country’s emblematic red grape, Malbec. Honeysuckle, but without the sweetness, springs to mind after one whiff and taste of Tomero’s 2012 Torrontés. … Read more
Oro de Castilla, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2012
($16, Olé Imports): It may be winter outside, but the essence of summer emerges once you pull the cork — or rather unscrew the top — of this bottle. Floral, bright and vibrant, it’s a joy to sip and drink. A slight nuttiness adds complexity without imparting heaviness. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($34, Dreyfus-Ashby): Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011
($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy. Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Sainte-Barbe, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011
($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011
($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family. Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years. The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more