All posts by admin

Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010

($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region.  This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes.  Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more

Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010

($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone.  This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more

Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Poggio” 2009

($55, MW Imports): Il Poggio, a 13-acre single-vineyard that sits about 1,000 feet above sea level, is the source of Monsanto’s flagship wine.  The 2009, from a ripe vintage, is positively explosive with a captivating smoky and mineraly quality.  Racy acidity balances the ripeness so there’s no mistaking it for anything but great Chianti Classico. … Read more

Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) 2011

($23, Palm Bay International): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only wine to be awarded the DOCG status, is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Nero d’Avola and Frappato.  Planeta’s 2011 begs for springtime with its fresh cherry-like aromas and taste.  The paucity of tannins in this charming red makes it perfect for chilling and a more substantial alternative to rosé when the weather and the food call for one.… Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011

($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up.  This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more

Why Wine Prices Are Rising

I’m no economist, but the idea of supply and demand is a fundamental economic principle that even we non-economists can understand. As far as fine wine is concerned, the demand is rising rapidly and the supply is not. My recent trip to Hong Kong and Vietnam demonstrated just how much demand is rising.… Read more

Laurel Glen Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Counterpoint” 2011

($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker.  Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success.  Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice. … Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc “Essence” 2012

($50): As impressive as Grgich’s Fumé Blanc-labeled Sauvignon Blanc is, this one, labeled Essence, a selection of their best lots, is even better.  What’s amazing is that Grgich has amplified all the components of their regular (though it’s not at all a “regular” wine) Sauvignon Blanc bottling while maintaining its impeccable balance.  … Read more

Vasse Felix, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012

($21, Negociants USA): The cooling maritime influences from the Indian and Southern Oceans explain why Western Australian wines differ from those of South Australia, the country’s major wine producing state.  The cooler growing season allows grapes more time to ripen and develop complex flavors resulting in wines with great refinement, as exemplified by Vasse Felix’s stunning 2012 Chardonnay.  … Read more

Redbank, Victoria (Australia) Chardonnay “The Long Paddock” 2011

($15, Negociants USA): The conventional wisdom is that Australia Chardonnays are ripe, big and in your face.  Well, it turns out that conventional wisdom is wrong in this case (and in many others when it comes to Australian wine).  Victoria’s relatively cool climate compared to most of Australian grape growing areas is readily apparent in this Chardonnay and explains the wine’s alluring and captivating delicacy and enticing creaminess. … Read more

Jacquart, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Mosaïque” Brut NV

($36, JAD Imports): Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne.  This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance.  Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink–and a very fine one at that — but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. … Read more

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV

($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance.  This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011

($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy.  Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more

Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011

($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family.  Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years.  The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more