($10): It’s hard to find a drinkable $10 Chardonnay these days. So when I ran across one that was not only drinkable, but good, I was thrilled. There’s no subtlety here, just rich ripe fruit and, most importantly, balance. Easy to sip before a meal, this straightforward Chardonnay is an especially good choice when serving a crowd.… Read more
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Robert Mondavi Winery, Napa Valley (California) To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve 2011
($40): Decades ago Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc for his wine made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape. It has always been one of California’s most distinctive, and the Mondavi 2011 continues that track record. The grapes have traditionally come from the famed To Kalon vineyard near the winery and they’ve opted to now put the vineyard name on the label. … Read more
Alex Gambal, St. Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2011
($45): The names of Burgundy vineyards are fascinating, often evoking colorful images. This one, one of my favorites, is roughly translated as “the boulders that look like the teeth of the dog.” Alex Gambal’s 2011 from this vineyard is as wonderful as the name. … Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Saint Aubin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2011
($45, Boisset USA): Boisset, a négociant known for bulk wines, has reinvented itself over the last decade by reducing production dramatically and focusing on quality instead of quantity. It’s been a dramatic and welcome transformation. Under the guidance of winemaker Gregory Patriat, they have produced this stylish St.… Read more
Jean Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2011
($100, Boisset USA): 
Les Perrières means stony, which is an accurate description for the firm, classically structured white Burgundy. The stony minerality acts as a lovely foil for its green apple-like ripeness. The contrast with Boisset St. Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly shows the magic of Burgundy–same grape, same vintage, same winemaking team, yet two very different expressions of Chardonnay. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Macon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2011
($13, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Louis Jadot is as reliable and consistent producer as you will find in Burgundy. Their talents are apparent in this well-priced, bright, Chardonnay-based white Burgundy. Brimming with clean ripe fruit flavors, it has good balancing acidity that keeps it lively. … Read more
Alex Gambal, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Grèves 2011
($45): 
The Gambal team, led by winemaker Geraldine Godot who joined Gambal in 2009, has captured the “flavor without weight” character of red Burgundy with this elegant Beaune Grèves. Its lacey delicacy belies its impact and persistence. A firm underpinning gives it support and structure. … Read more
Franciacorta: A Stylish Sparkler from Italy
Most wine geeks are not familiar with Franciacorta, so it’s understandable that this terrific Italian bubbly is not on the radar screens of most casual consumers. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir 2010
($32): Clos du Val, thankfully, has resisted the trend toward overripe, boisterous wines. With this lacey and pure Pinot Noir, they deliver bright clean red fruit with a hint of minerality. It is precise with delicate savory elements in the finish. … Read more
Red Rock Winery, California (United States) Pinot Noir Reserve 2012
($14): This wine exemplifies why we need to regulate the term “Reserve.” Red Rock Winery produces 40,000 cases of this Pinot Noir annually from grapes that come from anywhere in California. That’s hardly a Reserve wine. Slightly sweet and soft, this fruit-focused wine works perfectly as a stand-alone aperitif. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($17, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): One of joys of Robert Oatley’s wines is that they clearly reflect regional character. This Chardonnay from the Margaret River region in Western Australia is restrained just as you’d expect from that appellation. It has an appealing whiff of oak that complements — not overwhelms — the inherent fruitiness. … Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Swinging Malaysian” 2010
($85, Old Bridge Cellars): d’Arenberg has turned up the power here while simultaneously increasing the polish of this Shiraz. A luxurious wine, its suave texture is all the more impressive considering its power. A dense and dark earthy quality has replaced the flowery aspect found in their Laughing Magpie. … Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz “The Stump Jump” 2011
($13, Old Bridge Cellars): Despite my lack of enthusiasm for the cutesy names the Australians attach to their wines, there is no overlooking the quality and value of this wine. It is a superb $13 Shiraz. Surprisingly for the price, it delivers more than just fruit flavors — there are subtle and intriguing gamey and savory notes. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Central Ranges (New South Wales, Australia) Chardonnay “Wild Oats” 2012
($13, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits): Simply put, this is a fabulous $13 Chardonnay. Will it blow you away with depth and complexity? No, but it’s clean and fresh with a delicate hint of creaminess. Its finesse and balance makes it stand apart from most of the sweet and heavy-handed Chardonnay you find at this price.… Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz / Viognier “The Laughing Magpie” 2009
($29, Old Bridge Cellars): By blending a touch of Viognier with the Shiraz, as in the custom in France’s Côte Rôtie, d’Arenberg has created a more layered wine compared to their super-value The Stump Jump. Both flowery and gamey, it is balanced, not bombastic. … Read more
Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($15): This is a softer and rounder style of Sauvignon Blanc with less of that varietal’s usual pungency. You could sip it as an aperitif or match it with a take-out rotisserie chicken.
86 Michael Apstein Oct 8, 2013… Read more
Cono Sur, San Antonio Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($14, Vineyard Brands): 
This wine bears six references on the front and back labels and the capsule to organically grown grapes. Whether it’s the organically grown grapes or just solid winemaking, this fresh and vibrant Sauvignon Blanc is a delight. A zesty, grapefruit-like zing awakens the palate without assaulting it and balances its pure and precise fruitiness. … Read more
Gérard Bertrand, Pic Saint Loup (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) 2011
($19, USA Wine West): Pic Saint Loup, one of the top areas within the Languedoc, is in line to receive its own appellation because its wines have the potential stand above the rest. Gérard Bertrand, a well-established négociant in the Languedoc, has realized that potential. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Blanc (France) Chardonnay “Steel” 2012
($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s best producers, has fashioned this Bourgogne Blanc for the US by highlighting Chardonnay on the front label relegating the appellation to the back. The gray label and proprietary name, Steel, remind us this crisp white was fermented and aged in stainless steel to allow the subtle minerality and green apple-like fruitiness to shine. … Read more
Domaine Sigalas, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2012
($21, Diamond Importers, Inc): 
Assyrtiko, an ancient grape indigenous to the Aegean island of Santorini, is a name worth remembering because the grapes produce a wine ideally suited to flavorful seafood. Domaine Sigalas’ is spicy and mineraly, with an almost bitter finish. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Estate Reserve 2009
($0): Given the limited production of this single vineyard wine, it will be hard to find. But it’s surely worth the search. Lange Estate makes impressive wines from purchased fruit, but this one shows the great heights they achieve when they use their own. … Read more
Horton Vineyards, Virginia (United States) Viognier 2012
($20): Viognier is a tough grape to turn into wine. It needs to be ripe to capture its characteristic aromas and flavors”, but even a little extra ripeness imparts an alcoholic burn to the wine. Horton walks the line beautifully with this one. … Read more
Joseph Phelps, Napa Valley (California) “Insignia” 2010
($225): 
Insignia, a gloriously suave Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Malbec, remains one of Napa Valley’s most acclaimed wines. And with good reason judging from the 2010. An explosive wine, its glossy texture is all the more amazing considering the wine’s concentration and power.… Read more
Foxen Winery, Santa Maria Valley (California) Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard 2010
($60): This concentrated Pinot Noir pulls it off without landing in the Pinot Syrah category because underneath all that power is refinement. Long and layered, Foxen has delivered a ripe wine, befitting its origins, without pushing it over the top. You’ll embrace it for its black-fruited succulence rather than its delicacy.… Read more
O Casal, Valdeorras (Spain) Godello “Casal Novo” 2012
($21, Classic Wines): Godello, a grape indigenous to Valdeorras, a tiny DO in northwestern Spain, has great potential because it has the capacity to make a wine that combines a creamy richness with bold acidity. The trick is to balance the two, as O Casal has done with their 2012 Casal Novo. … Read more
Mt. Difficulty, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir “Roaring Meg” 2011
($25, American Estate Wines): 
Central Otago is one the great areas in New Zealand for Pinot Noir, and Mt. Difficulty is one the best producers there. This solid Pinot Noir, the winery’s second label, combines bright clean red fruit-like flavors with a whiff of earth and leafiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Reserve 2011
($35): Judging by their Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, Lange Estate is a name to remember. This one shows the paradox of Pinot Noir — powerful yet delicate. Its power is in its persistence and layered flavors of fruit and earthiness. … Read more
Maison Albert Bichot, Bourgogne Rouge (France) Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2011
($18, Horizon Beverage Company): Both Burgundy fans will and newcomers to this mine field-laden region will be thrilled with this bargain priced wine. Burgundy aficionados will embrace it because it’s an authentic red Burgundy at great price, delivering earthiness to complement its fruitiness. … Read more
Lange Estate Winery, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris 2011
($20): 
I was not familiar with the wines from Lange Estate Winery until a recent tasting in Boston. That was a mistake I’m glad I’ve now corrected. This perky Pinot Gris has vivacity that harmonizes perfectly with its subtly spiced pear-like flavors.… Read more
Cakebread Cellars, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($50): Cakebread, known for their Napa Valley wines, has expanded to the cooler, more Pinot Noir friendly, Anderson Valley for their foray with the varietal. While clearly a fruit-focused wine, bright acidity prevents it from being jammy or overdone. Supple tannins enrobe the sweet dense mixture of lively red fruit flavors. … Read more
The Stunning and Affordable 2010 Bordeaux
Affordable Bordeaux is not an oxymoron. The truth is that, aside from the 60 or so top chateaux, wines from Bordeaux offer tremendous value. … Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2012
($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon blend focuses on plumy flavors sprinkled with a subtle herbal quality. Supple tannins allow immediate enjoyment. It’s a balanced wine with enough stuffing to stand up to steak.
85 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2013
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012
($15, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): This Shiraz could be viewed as a second wine to Franklin Tate Estate’s impressive Alexanders Vineyard Shiraz. More plumy than gamey, it delivers clean bright fruit without being overdone. Ready to drink now, it would be a good choice for burgers on the grill.… Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon Alexanders Vineyard 2012
($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): The Franklin Tate Estate wines labeled Alexanders Vineyard are stunningly good. I enthusiastically recommended their 2012 Syrah and am even more impressed by this Cabernet Sauvignon. The immediately explosive nose prepares you for what follows.… Read more
d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Riesling “The Dry Dam” 2010
($17, Old Bridge Cellars): With so much less expensive Riesling on the market, consumers might pass over this one. That would be a mistake. This bracing wine has a racy mouth cleansing zing and lots of minerality. Hints of spice and citrus emerge in its seemingly endless finish.… Read more
Montes Alpha, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2011
($20, TGIC Importers): A bright lemony finish adds balance and a welcome restraint in this fruit-focused Chardonnay. Hints of spice balance the lively pineapple-like nuances in this easy-to-recommend wine. Its mid-weight character will not overwhelm so it’s as easy to sip before dinner as it is at the table.… Read more
Franklin Tate Estate, Margaret River (Western Australia) Shiraz 2012
($20, RG Wine Trade/Indigo Wine Group): Typical of many of the wines from Western Australia, this one shows power without being overblown. What’s especially intriguing is how the wine captures both major aspects of what Shiraz has to offer–a plumy fruitiness and a peppery gaminess. … Read more
Robert Oatley, McClaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz 2010
($20, Robert Oatley Vineyards): When tasting the line of wines under the Robert Oatley label, it’s easy to understand how he turned Rosemount, the company he founded, into one of Australia’s most successful wineries. This Shiraz combines the best of that grape’s dual personalities. … Read more
Paumanok, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Chenin Blanc 2012
($28): 
As with many wines from Long Island, the retail availability of this one is limited since three-quarters of Long Island’s wineries’ production is sold at the wineries. Nonetheless, this crisp and refreshing Chenin Blanc is widely available in restaurants and retail shops the New York City area and as far afield as Chicago. … Read more
Hecht & Bannier, Bandol (Provence, France) 2009
($34, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd): Juicy and succulent, this weighty Bandol is surprisingly user-friendly now with just enough tannic-acid structure to frame the black fruit-like flavors without being aggressive or intrusive. Hints of earth complement its dark fruitiness. It carries its intensity and concentration with grace. … Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut 2004
($70, Laurent-Perrier USA): Relying on a substantial amount of Chardonnay in their blends, Laurent-Perrier consistently makes elegant and suave Champagne. The 2004, a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, continues that tradition. Creamy and delicate, it caresses the palate. There’s just the right amount of acidity in its very fine bubbles to keep it fresh and lively.… Read more
Robert Oatley, Great Southern (Australia) Riesling 2012
($17, Robert Oatley Vineyards, Inc): 
Though a relatively new label, Robert Oatley has been an important part of the Australian wine industry for decades. He founded Rosemount, one of Australia’s most successful and reliable producers, before he sold that winery. Judging from this and other wines in his line, consistency remains his hallmark.… Read more
Chilling Red Wines
I had to look twice. On a warm June night in a lively Paris bistro many years ago, diners had bottles of Crozes-Hermitage in ice buckets. I found this surprising, because the wines were red and conventional wisdom tells us to serve red wines at room temperature or–among sophisticates–at “cellar” temperature, but certainly not chilled.… Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2012
($13, Alamos USA): 
This Malbec combines juicy succulent black fruit-like flavors with soft tannins that lend just the right amount of structure. Big, but not overpowering, this fleshy wine is a great value. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for with its price. … Read more
d’Arenberg, Adelaide Hills (South Australia) Pinot Noir “The Feral Fox” 2011
($32, Old Bridge Cellars): 
d’Arenberg is known for their muscular and intensely flavored wines. This Pinot Noir — aptly dubbed The Feral Fox because of its gamey element — fits that profile. Thicker and more ponderous than a red Burgundy or Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, it is refreshingly distinctive and reflects its origins. … Read more
Louis M. Martini, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($30): With supple tannins, Martini’s Alexander Valley Cabernet is velvety in texture. There’s far more going on in the glass compared to the Sonoma County bottling, which arguably could reflect a vintage difference. Engaging minty nuances complement its ripe dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Montes, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Alpha” 2010
($18, T.G.I.C. Importers): Aurelio Montes was one of the pioneers of the premium wine industry in Chile when he and his partners founded the Montes winery in the late 1980s. His dogged determination has helped draw the world’s attention to Chile as a source of upscale wines. … Read more
Montes, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Apalta “Alpha M” 2010
($80, T.G.I.C. Importers): 
With their “M” bottling, which they don’t produce every year, Montes has consistently demonstrated the heights that Chilean red Bordeaux blends can achieve. Indeed, the M could stand for “marvelous” or “magnificent.” It explodes on the palate delivering dense ripe and savory components that play off beautifully against one another. … Read more
Cono Sur, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir “Reserva Especial” 2012
($15, Vineyard Brands): Despite coming from the Casablanca Valley, a cool coastal area of Chile where you’d expect more delicacy in Pinot Noir, this one is a riper, more intensely styled wine with hints of bacon fat. Tannins are similarly ripe and supple, which means it’s a good choice for current drinking. … Read more
Penley Estate, Coonawarra (South Australia) Chardonnay “Aradia” 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): Those who still believe that all Australian Chardonnays are over ripe fruit bombs will be stunned by this dazzling wine. Bright apple-like nuances tingle the palate in this restrained style of Chardonnay. You’re left with a zesty citrus tang in the finish. … Read more