($22): 
Michel Rolland, owner of Château Bon Pasteur in Pomerol and consulting wine maker to scores of properties around the world, has had an enormous impact changing the style of wine. His stylistic imprint is most apparent in the reds, making them riper and bolder. … Read more
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Rolland & Galarreta, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2011
($24): This masterful blend of Merlot and Tempranillo should walk off the shelves. It’s a big muscular and meaty combination but with glossy tannins usually associated with far more expensive wines. Powerful and simultaneously elegant, it marries dark fruit and savory elements.… Read more
Tenute Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Vigneto Manachiara 2010
($97, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): 
Tenute Silvio Nardi, now run by his daughter, Emilia Nardi, remains of the Brunello’s top producers. They have vineyards in both the northwest and southeast portions of the Montalcino zone, which produces grapes of different styles because of the difference in soil and climate in each of the areas. … Read more
Besserat de Bellefon, Champagne (France) “Cuvée de Moines” Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($62): There are only a hand full of Champagne houses that produce a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs, that revered category of Champagne made exclusively from Chardonnay. I, for one, am glad that Besserat de Bellefon makes one — it is stunning. … Read more
Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component. As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013
($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis. This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones — 2012 and 2014. A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest. … Read more
Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): As expected, Billaud-Simon’s 2014 Chablis has more flint and less fruit than its 2014 Petit Chablis (also reviewed this week). My advice is to buy a bottle of each and taste them side-by-side. Re-corked and stored in a cold refrigerator, they will remain fresh for a few days — longer than you might think — so you can repeat the experiment nightly, at least for a while.… Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2012
($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Faiveley, though based in Nuits-St. Georges in the heart of the Côte d’Or, has always had a strong presence in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise. Indeed, they own the entire Clos des Myglands, a Premier Cru vineyard, making it a monopole, a rarity in Burgundy where vineyard ownership is usually divided among many growers.… Read more
Maison Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2013
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers. And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. … Read more
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Vivens” 2009
($38): 
I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us. Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. … Read more
Decanter January 2016: The science of two alcohol free days per week
Is it necessary to have ‘several alcohol free’ days every week and, if so, should those days be consecutive? Dr Michael Apstein, in the rare position of wine writer and liver doctor, gives his view to Decanter. [Read more here]
Decanter Magazine – February 2016
Following a very merry Christmas, are you in the first few days of a self-imposed dry January? With indepth knowledge of both medicine and wine, Dr. Michael Apstein explains how our bodies process alcohol and whether a New year detox really works.… Read more
Beaujolais Rising
A transformation is occurring in Beaujolais, and within a few years the world will see the wines from that region in a whole new light. For most consumers today, Beaujolais is synonymous with Beaujolais Nouveau, which all too often is a grapey, gooey wine.… Read more
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) “Number 1” 2013
($27): Macari, a top winery on Long Island, doesn’t rest on its laurels. It, like many cutting edge wineries, is using large oval tanks made of concrete (“concrete eggs”) for fermentation. The idea is that the porosity of these concrete eggs lies somewhere between stainless steel and wood and imparts finesse to the wine without wood flavors. … Read more
Ryan William Vineyard, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2012
($22, T. Edward Wines): This Riesling shows why the Finger Lakes region is rapidly becoming known as THE place for Riesling in America. Ryan William Vineyard’s 2012 delivers a zesty cutting edge seasoned with the barest hint of spice. All the components come together seamlessly, adding to its appeal. … Read more
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Cabernet Franc 2010
($34): Long Island wines do not command the respect they deserve. Though many producers there believe Merlot to be the island’s signature grape, my vote goes to Cabernet Franc and Macari’s 2010 shows why. To use a highly technical word, it’s yummy. … Read more
Monte Bernardi, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Sa’Etta 2011
($41, T. Edward Wines): Some Tuscan producers refer to their wines made exclusively from Sangiovese grown in the Chianti Classico region as a Super Tuscan wine. Others, such as Monte Bernardi, prefer to label theirs as Chianti Classico Riserva. This wine shows that Chianti Classico can have all of the appeal and pizzazz of the so-called Super Tuscans. … Read more
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Fossati 2008
($68, T. Edward Wines): As of 2008 Borgogno decided to bottle wines from specific vineyards separately. Prior to that time, they blended the wines and labeled them as Barolo or Barolo Riserva. Fossati, a cru or vineyard (as opposed to a proprietary name), is located in the village of Barolo itself. … Read more
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2008
($134, T. Edward Wines): Wines from Cannubi, one of the very best vineyards in the Barolo zone, are capable of an amazing combination of grace and power. While some growers may attempt to capitalize on the name Cannubi to sell their wines, others aim to express the grandeur the vineyard has to offer. … Read more
Rio Maggio, Offida Pecorino DO (Marche, Italy) Pecorino “Colle Monteverde” 2014
($18, T. Edward Wines): Pecorino is also a grape, not only a cheese. And one that is capable of producing lively white wines with refreshing vibrancy, such as this one. This light wine delivers a precise cutting edge without being aggressive. … Read more
Chene Bleu, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Héloise” 2009
($110, Wilson Daniels): Nicole Rolet and her team at Chene Bleu are shooting for the stars with their wines, aiming to be one of the Rhone’s top producers. And they are well on their way. This is a property to watch. … Read more
Domaine Sainte Croix, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Le Fournas” 2012
($16, T. Edward Wines): Corbières, one of the many appellations in the Languedoc, offers sturdy reds, such as this one, ideal for wintery fare. Dark fruit flavors dominate in this blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, but do not overpower, and harmonize nicely with herbal notes. … Read more
Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($46, Wilson Daniels): 
Domaine Leflaive, arguably Burgundy’s finest white wine estate, made a foray into the Mâconnais in 2004, buying 23 acres of Chardonnay vineyards and producing an eye-popping white wine from that region. They have been extremely happy with the project, have expanded it and currently have about 75 acres there. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2010
($19, San Francisco Wine Exchange): I continue to be amazed — year after year — by the value Rioja delivers. It’s hard to imagine a more delightful wine selling for less than $20. It’s a balance of sweet, yet not heavy, fruit coupled with savory elements. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2006
($29, San Francisco Wine Exchange): 
Full disclosure, this wine gets additional points for value. I would run to buy it because wines of this quality at this price will disappear rapidly. Another fabulous bargain from Beronia, a Rioja producer whose well-priced wines rarely fail to thrill, it’s a traditional blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano and Mazuelo.… Read more
Viña Altamar, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2013
($14, Hammeken Cellars): It is rare to find a wine from Ribera de Duero, one of Spain’s top wine areas, at this price. Especially one of this quality. Stony elements buttress the lovely rich, but not jammy, dark fruit flavors. Far more sophisticated than the price suggests, it has polished tannins and wonderful structure. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013
($40): 
Louis Baisinbert is a name to watch. He is a small négociant — some would call him a “micro-negociant” — buying no more than a half dozen barrels of an individual wine from a single producer. He supplies the barrels, never new oak, and performs the elevage, which is literally raising (finishing) the wine. … Read more
Domaine Vocoret, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Blanchot 2012
($71): Chablis remains an underappreciated, and hence, under priced source of unique white Burgundy. While not inexpensive, it is practically impossible to fine Côte d’Or Grand Cru at this price. And this wine is truly worthy of the Grand Cru moniker. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2013
($40): 
Baisinbert made just two barrels of this charming red. Wonderfully fragrant, it delivers bright raspberry-like fruitiness without a trace of heaviness or jamminess. He has delivered a wine with good body and concentration, avoiding the leanness often found in wines from Givry. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2013
($66, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most recognizable and prestigious villages in Burgundy, are always pricey. Négociants tell me that it is increasingly difficult for them to find good sources as more and more growers bottle their own production instead of selling it in bulk to négociants.… Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012
($30, Wilson Daniels): 
Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. … Read more
Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Springvale 2014
($34): 
Jeffrey Grosset describes his 2014 Springvale Riesling as a “soft rock” compared to the Polish Hill Riesling, which he characterizes as a “hard rock.” It’s an apt comparison. The Springvale Riesling is more floral and slightly richer, but retains the wonderful cutting dry edginess characteristic of Grosset’s wines. … Read more
Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2014
($49): 
Jeffrey Grosset makes an array of fabulous Rieslings. Despite the impression — erroneous, as it turns out — that Australia falls into the “warm weather” category for winemaking, the Clare Valley is home to exceptional Riesling. Jeffrey Grosset told me that they have such ideal conditions there for that grape that they have not needed to acidity the wines for the last 14 vintages since they transformed the vineyard to organic farming. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($48): Merry Edwards is one of my favorite California Pinot Noir producers. One of her many virtues is that she’s not trying to make red Burgundy. Her wines express the climate and warmth of California without being overly ripe or heavy. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2013
($63): Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith Pinot Noir is proportioned similarly to her Georganne bottling. At this stage the black fruit is more apparent with the savory notes playing in the background. It has the same suave texture, with juicy acidity and well-polished tannins. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2013
($60): In addition to consistently making a fabulous array of Pinot Noir, Merry Edwards is a genius with her single vineyard bottlings. She embraces the Burgundian magic of terroir: How the same grapes grown in different vineyards express themselves differently in the respective wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2013
($65): With a different profile than her other Pinots — more red than black fruit intermingled with the hard to describe “leafy” character — Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane shows the virtue of single vineyard bottlings. Though all of the hallmarks of Merry Edwards’ wines are there: Beautiful balance, well structured but not oppressive tannins, and freshness, the wine is still unique. … Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Maison L’Envoyé brings together Evening Land founder Mark Tarlov and the very talented Burgundy guru, Becky Wasserman (according to their promotional materials, which also tell us that the grapes come from growers’ vineyards in Beaune, the Hautes-Côtes, and even premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets).… Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Two Messengers” 2013
($30): Perhaps the “Two Messengers” tag reflects the collaboration between Burgundy’s Louis-Michael Liger-Belair and the Willamette Valley. Or perhaps it’s the combination of two complementary flavors — ripe fruit and savory nuances. Whatever the origin of the name, the wine is easy to recommend because it does bring together the Janus-like essence of Pinot Noir, with bright red fruit notes harmonized with earthy complexity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): Ponzi, one of the pioneers in the Oregon wine industry, continues to show that Pinot Noir is well-suited to Willamette’s climate and soil. Whereas their Tavola bottling focuses more on bright fruit, the Willamette Valley label has the near magical combination of smoky savory nuances to complement the dark fruit notes. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Oporto (Portugal) 10 Year-Old Tawny Porto NV
($31): 
Along with winter, at least as measured by the calendar, comes the Port season. A high-quality 10-year-old Tawny, such as this one from Noval, is a perfect way to start the season and end a meal. Tawnies are unfussy: Open the bottle, pour and enjoy, then re-cork and repeat the next day. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2014
($26): 
Though not terribly complex, it’s hard to find authentic Pinot Noir at this price, which is why anyone with an interest in this varietal should embrace this bottling. It delivers light, bright red cherry-like flavors enrobed by mild tannins, making it an excellent choice for current drinking. … Read more
Prá, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2014
($13): 
Soave, an underappreciated region in Italy, is home to wonderfully satisfying white wines when made by a top producer, such as Prá. Even this one, one of Prà’s basic bottlings, delivers good intensity offset by characteristic Italian verve. Round enough to sip on its own, it has sufficient structure to pair well with sushi.… Read more
Seeing White at Château Lagrange
Just when you think it can’t get any better, it does. At least that’s the case for Château Lagrange, the Cru Classé property in St. Julien, which is making yet another name for itself with–of all things–a dry white wine, Les Arums de Lagrange.… Read more
Decanter Magazine – Vik: a Bordeaux—Chilean Collaboration (January 2016)
Started from scratch less than a decade ago in a remote valley to the south of the Chilean capital, this ultra-modern estate was born of the vision of an entrepreneur from Norway. Michael Apstein charts the development of its singular wine, a blend that brings together Bordeaux know-how with essential Chilean character.… Read more
Marie-Pierre Manciat, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Petites Bruyères 2012
($25, Langdon Shiverick Imports): This is another example of why Pouilly-Fuissé is such a popular appellation, home to Chardonnay-based stylish wines at an excellent price. Marie-Pierre took the reins from her father, Claude, in 2002 and, judging from this classy wine, she is a top producer in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais. In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus. The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) La Roche 2012
($41, Vineyard Brands): 
More and more producers in Beaujolais are treating the area, especially Moulin-à-Vent, like the rest of Burgundy — as it deserves to be in my mind. That is, they are making wine from individual vineyards and labeling them as such. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2012
($35): Although this is comprised of a blend similar to that of the 2005 Les Arums, the richness in the 2012 comes across as heavy. While it may be going through an awkward stage now, I doubt it will ever deliver the pleasure the 2005 provides.… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2010
($35): A lovely firm stony quality offsets the toasty richness. At this stage, the elements are not fully integrated and it lacks the elegance of the 2005.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more