All posts by admin

Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Palazzo della Torre” 2014

($18):  Allegrini, a top-tier producer, is one of the locomotives in the Valpolicella area, introducing many consumers to the joys of the wines from that part of Italy.  They make an outstanding line-up of wines across the board.  Their Palazzo della Torre, a kind of a baby Amarone, is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella whose body has been pumped up with a portion of dried grapes that they add to the newly made wine. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Grande Roche 2015

($22, Louis Latour USA):  The 2015 vintage in Burgundy–and most of France for that matter — produced excellent reds, with ripeness and presence.  Whites were less consistent because sometimes the warmth of the vintage robbed them of needed acidity.  But when producers harnessed the ripeness without losing acidity, as with this wine, the result is stunning. Read more

Alternatives to Rosé, Even in Provence

With apologies to Alfred Lord Tennyson, rosé to the left of us, rosé to the right of us, rosé in front of us, and there we were, drinking white wine in the heart of Provence.  The sommelier at La Presque’îe, a spectacularly situated restaurant–with food to match–on the outskirts of Cassis overlooking the Mediterranean coast, told me that they sell a lot of rosé, but that, like us, many diners order white wine.Read more

Les Maisons Rouges, Jasnières (Loire Valley, France) “Sur le Nez” Sec 2016

($25, AP Wine Imports):  Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost.  Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. Read more

Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rosat” NV

($13, Polaner Selections):  It can be difficult to find a wine to accompany Vietnamese, indeed most Asian fare, with its plethora of flavors.  This Rosé Cava worked splendidly with the stellar food at the Hanoi House in New York.  It was gentle enough to work as a celebratory pre-dinner drink and firm enough to cut through the spice and lemongrass. Read more

Thierry Germain, Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur (Loire Valley, France) “L’Insolite” 2015

($40):  Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire.  He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search.  Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual).  Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve.Read more

Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2015

($28):  The wines from Côte de Brouilly, one of top-tier of the ten cru of Beaujolais, are not to be confused with those from Brouilly, another cru, but whose wines have less consistent quality.  Although Château Thivin, one of the region’s best producers, makes a range of wines from Côte de Brouilly depending on the position of the vines on the slope, this one is a blend from several sites. Read more

An Interesting Rarity from Burgundy

Geantet-Pansiot, Bourgogne Rouge, “Pinot Fin,” 2015 ($30 – 45):

Pinot Fin is a clone of Pinot Noir that produces smaller berries and thicker skin, according to the internationally acclaimed wine expert, Jancis Robinson.  It’s rarely grown in Burgundy today, because it’s a finicky grape to grown, even more troublesome than Pinot Noir, susceptible to many diseases that result in lower yields–meaning, more expensive wine. … Read more

Will Chinese Wine be as Successful as Chinese Food?

At the end of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, which was held this year in Beijing, I sat amazed at how extraordinarily efficient and smoothly run this wine competition was: A dedicated sommelier for each panel of judges, perfectly timed pouring, not a drop spilled or a glass broken, a bevy of technical support assistants for the tablets judges used to record their scores, even robots transporting bottled water to be delivered to the judges’ tables. Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Jackson Estate 2016

($32):  Arguably, Kendall-Jackson is largely responsible for Americans’ love of Chardonnay.  So, it’s not surprising that they should expand their portfolio with site-specific bottlings of that variety.  This one, from Santa Maria Valley, delivers fruity, spiced pineapple-like flavors along with the opulence for which KJ is known.Read more

Kendall-Jackson, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Chardonnay Camelot Highlands Jackson Estate 2016

($38):  The uniqueness of Santa Maria Valley, as a whole, stems from its east-west orientation, instead of the usually north-south orientation of most California valleys.  This orientation allows the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean direct access to the vineyards.  Indeed, vineyards just a few miles inland are considerable warmer, producing grapes and wines with different flavor profiles, than ones further west. Read more

Muscadet is Morphing

The cru system–as in Grand or Premier Cru Burgundy or the cru of Beaujolais–has reached Muscadet.  The growers there are doing what producers throughout the world are doing:  They are defining and identifying specific areas within the broader region that are capable of producing distinctive wines. Read more

Quinta Casal Monteiro, Tejo (Portugal) Arinto Terra de Touros 2015

($10, Iberian Wine Imports):  Although Portugal is better known for their red wines, their whites have gotten better and better over the last five years and soon could be competing with their reds for serious attention.  Floral and delicate with a refreshing line of acidity in the finish, this light-bodied white would go well with steamed clams or simply grilled white fish.Read more

Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV

($24, Marc de Grazia Selections):  Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine.  And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary.  The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. Read more