If terroir—that French concept that where the grapes grow determines the character of the wine—is so important, why haven’t American consumers embraced it? Maybe wine appellations, which should define terroir, are just not all that important. That could be, but I doubt it.… Read more
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Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) “GSM” 2017
($40): GSM stands for the classic Mediterranean blend: Grenache (50%); Syrah (33%) and Mourvèdre. Naumes has fashioned an exquisitely balanced mid-weight wine from these grapes, each of which adds something. Grenache makes its presence known with lively spice, while Syrah adds power and Mourvèdre savory nuances. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Barbera 2017
($35): Plantings of Barbera in Oregon, let alone in the Rogue Valley, must be miniscule. The 2018 Oregon Vineyard and Winery Report doesn’t even mention the grape in their detailed statistics. Judging from this wine, more wineries will be planting it. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto di Carbonare 2017
($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Very different from Inama’s Soave Classico from Vigneto du Lot, their Vigneto di Carbone is equally entrancing, but in an entirely different way. More chalky and crystallined, it dances on the palate. Its laser-like finish reinforces it clean and cutting profile. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto du Lot 2017
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Inama, one of Soave’s top producers, make a great Soave from a blend of vineyards in that appellation. He also makes two stunning single-vineyard ones — this one, and one from Vigneto di Carbonare. Inama’s Vigneto du Lot has power and finesse balanced by piercing acidity. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2019
($17, HB Wine Merchants): There’s Pinot Grigio, and then there’s Pinot Grigio. One taste of Peter Zemmer’s explains why the category is so popular. Delicate hints of white flowers greet you when you pull the cork. A refined and restrained fruitiness follows. … Read more
Peter Zemmer, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio Giatl Riserva 2017
($38, HB Wine Merchants): Peter Zemmer’s single-vineyard Giatl is a very different style of Pinot Grigio from his regular (I hate that word to describe that wine, which is anything but regular) bottling. The Giatl has power and a Burgundian-like weight and to it. … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Pinot Noir 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): European regulations for naming wines are Byzantine. The top tier is labeled Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) formerly known as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC). (A quirk in regulations allow the French to continue to use the older AOC nomenclature.) … Read more
Domaine de Cabrials, Pays d’Oc IGP (Occitanie, France) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
($12, HB Wine Merchants): Unbelievable value! That’s the best way to describe this Cabernet. It displays a wonderful — and rare at this price — balance of dark fruit and savory olive-like flavors. Wonderfully textured, it’s not flabby or soft. It’s structured, but not aggressive. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2018
($35): Siduri, named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, specializes in Pinot Noir, especially single vineyard bottlings. According to their website they make only single vineyard wines from a total of 20 vineyards throughout California and Oregon. Fortunately, they have expanded their production and now produce blended wines from three appellations: Willamette Valley in Oregon, plus two from California, specifically, Santa Barbara County, and the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($30): The grapes for this multi-vineyard bottling come primarily from the Sta. Rita Valley, whose east-west orientation is rare in California where most of the valleys run north-south. Sta. Rita’s orientation allows cool Pacific Ocean influences to reduce temperatures, especially close to the coast, making it an ideal locale for growing Pinot Noir, a grape that prefers lower temperatures to higher ones. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($40): Siduri, known for their single-vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir has expanded their portfolio to include ones from a variety of vineyards. In this case, the grapes come from throughout the Russian River Valley. Compared to its Willamette Valley bottling, their Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is broader and riper, with dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2015
($50): Talenti must have harvested the Sangiovese at precisely the right time in 2015, judging from the balance in this wine. The 2015 growing season in Montalcino was, similar to the remainder of Tuscany, hot and produced rich, ripe wines, sometimes even over-ripe and jam-y ones. … Read more
Qupé, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Y Block 2018
($22): Qupé, established in 1982, has always focused on wines made from varieties usually associated with France’s Rhône Valley — Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Marsanne and Roussanne. So where did this fabulous Chardonnay come from. The Chardonnay came from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, primarily from the Y Block, which was planted exclusively for Qupé in 2005, according to their website. … Read more
Mettler Family Vineyards, Lodi (California) Albarino 2019
($20): American consumers have embraced Albariño, the most important white grape in Spain’s Galicia region, because of the energetic and spicy wines made from it. And now, with roughly 450 acres of it, almost a one-third of which was planted in the last three years, the grape — and wine — is making inroads into California vineyards. … Read more
Laetitia Vineyard & Winery, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2018
($27): It’s rare to see a Pinot Noir of this stature for less than $30 a bottle. The grapes for this fruit-forward Pinot Noir come entirely from Laetitia’s vineyards, which means they control all of the farming, and, importantly, the timing of the harvest. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Dry NV
($35, Mionetto USA): Cartizze is the top category of Prosecco, and the only “Cru” entitled to its own appellation. It sits atop the Prosecco quality pyramid because it is the best place within the Valdobbiadene zone to grow the Glera grape, the one used for Prosecco. … Read more
Abrigo Giovanni, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Garabei” 2017
($17, Elevation Wine): There’s Dolcetto and then there’s Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, one of the few Dolcetto areas to be awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest category of wine. Dolcetto from around Alba, especially Diano d’Alba, typically have more elegance than run-of-the-mill Dolcetto. … Read more
Couly-Dutheil, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “Les Chanteaux” 2018
($30, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): White wine from Chinon is unusual since 95 percent of the appellation’s output is red. Couly-Dutheil, one of Chinon’s top domaines, consistently produces a fabulous example of white Chinon along with their stellar range of red Chinon wines. … Read more
Los Vascos, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($10, Taub Family Selections): It’s not really a 94-point wine, but I have to get your attention. This wine shows the deficiency of using points to rate a wine. It’s spectacular in the context of a $10 bottle Sauvignon Blanc. If there’s a more enjoyable one out there at the price, please let me know. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Grenache 2016
($35): The Rogue Valley Winegrowers Association’s website tells us that the Rogue Valley, Oregon’s southernmost winegrowing area, has 4,000 acres of vines. The most important red wines in the warm area are made from Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Malbec. … Read more
Naumes Family Vineyards, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2016
($40): The history of the Naumes Family Vineyards seems to confirm the mantra that good wine starts in the vineyard. They’ve been making wine only for a handful of years, but have been farming fruit for 100 years, according to their website. … Read more
Sebastiani, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($40): The world needs more renditions of Cabernet Sauvignon like this one — specifically, well-priced and well proportioned. It delivers ripe, but not over-ripe fruit flavors, and a wisp of vanilla-kissed oak. But savory and “not just fruit” accents peek through, creating balance and saving it from being fruit-heavy. … Read more
Bodegas Pinea del Duero, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “17” 2017
($65, WineSmith Company): Bodegas Pinea, a new entry in Ribera del Duero, is off to an excellent start. Founded just this decade, their first release of their flagship wine, Pinea, was in 2017, which gave rise to the name of this wine, 17, their second label. … Read more
Cantina Fratelli Pardi, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG (Umbria, Italy) “Sacrantino” 2014
($35, Provicenter USA): The Sagrantino grape has abundant fierce tannins, which explains the character of the wines from Montefalco Sagrantino (formerly called Sagrantino di Montefalco). Wines from this DOCG require exclusive use of that grape and benefit from years, even decades, of bottle age to soften them. … Read more
Viticoltore Vini Franchetti, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Passorosso” 2017
($39): Andrea Franchetti is either brilliant or crazy. He built a wine estate, Tinoro, from scratch in Tuscany’s Val d’Orcia and makes wine there, not from Sangiovese, but from solely Bordeaux varieties. He has another estate in Tuscany, Sancaba, dedicated to plant, of all things, Pinot Noir. … Read more
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Stephanie’s Cuvée” 2017
($30): With raspberry-like nuances, this fruit-forward Pinot Noir has moderate weight and suave tannins. Lively acidity keeps it fresh. The 14.3 percent stated alcohol, noticeable by a slightly hot finish, adds a pleasing roundness to the wine. Thankfully, not being a bombastic wine, it would go nicely with grilled salmon.… Read more
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018
($25): Here is a polished Cabernet Sauvignon that displays black fruit enrobed in suave tannins. Despite plenty of dark fruit flavors, it’s not overweight as evidenced by its modest — by today’s standards — 13.9 percent stated alcohol. Its creamy texture and kiss of vanilla-like notes allows for immediate enjoyment.… Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneti di Foscarino Vecchie Vigne 2017
($23, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): One of the reasons I love Soave is that — when made by top producers such as Inama — the wines over-deliver. The region is still trying to recover from its reputation of dilute innocuous wines. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($19, Mionetto USA): There’s Prosecco, and then there’s Valdobbiadene Prosecco. The difference is location, location, location: where the grapes grow. Tasting the wonderful range of Mionetto’s Prosecco is extremely instructive. Their DOC Prosecco Treviso, reviewed here previously, is very good and very well-priced. … Read more
Bodegas Caro, Mendoza (Argentina) “CARO” 2016
($60, Taub Family Selections): It should come as no surprise that a collaboration, now about two decades old, between two of the greatest names in wine should produce a fabulous wine. Bodegas Caro is a joint effort of Domaines Barons de (Lafite) Rothschild and Nicolas Catena, one of Argentina’s leading wine producers. … Read more
From Canada’s Quench Magazine: En Primeur has stood the test of time…
Case for Quarantine 2.0
Times like this remind us of the things that are really important in life. In the big picture, wine, though it plays a significant part in my life, is not among them. Compared to the death and disease around us and the prospect of a looming economic recession, and maybe a depression, writing about wine seems trivial. … Read more
Case for Quarantine 2.0
Times like this remind us of the things that are really important in life. In the big picture, wine, though it plays a significant part in my life, is not among them. Compared to the death and disease around us and the prospect of a looming economic recession, and maybe a depression, writing about wine seems trivial. … Read more
Tua Rita, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Rosso dei Notri” 2017
($22, Winebow): Tua Rita, best known for their show-stopping monovarietal Merlot called Redigaffi that routinely sells at release for $300+, makes two other wines consumers should embrace. This one, a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, should be in everyone’s cellar. … Read more
Tua Rita, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Perlato del Bosco” 2016
($30, Winebow): Perlato del Bosco shows the broad talents at Tue Rita. They make the Redigaffi Super Tuscan (and Super Priced) Merlot as well as the bargain-priced and delicious Rossi dei Notri. Here’s Perlato del Bosco, a marvelous wine made entirely from Sangiovese and displaying a completely different profile. … Read more
Principe Corsini, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Le Corti” 2015
($24): The more I taste Chianti Classico wines from the 2015 vintage, the more I like them. Take this one, for example, from Principe Corsini, whose consistency makes them an easy choice. It’s fresh and lively with zippy Tuscan acidity that balances the cherry-like fruit characteristic of Sangiovese. … Read more
Minuty, Côtes de Provence (Provence, France) “Prestige” 2019
($27, Vintus): Readers of my recommendations recognize that I am not enthralled with most still rosé wines on the market, preferring to chill a light red. This one stopped me in my tracks. Its pale pink color suggested an innocuous wine. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) Chardonnay 2019
($10, Taub Family Selections): If there’s a better ten-dollar Chardonnay on the market, please tell me. Racy and vibrant, with a touch of spice, it is delicate, but not vapid. It has surprising weight and depth for the price. If you’re looking for opulence kissed by vanilla from oak aging, you will not embrace this wine. … Read more
Los Vascos, Colchagua Valley (Chile) “Le Dix de Los Vascos” Estate Grown 2016
($61, Taub Family Selections): Los Vascos, the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) property in Chile, unsurprisingly makes great red wines. This one, Le Dix, is their top-of-the-line offering, and is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85 percent) with equal amounts of Syrah, Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Penner-Ash, McMinnville (Oregon) Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard 2017
($35): Many consumers shy away from Riesling because it comes in a range of sweetness, which is not always apparent from the label. Penner-Ash uses the scale developed by the International Riesling Foundation on the back label that indicates this wine is “medium dry” on the scale that goes from “dry” (the least sweet) to “sweet” with “medium dry” and “medium sweet” in between. … Read more
Bibi Graetz, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Bollamatta” Rosé NV
($26, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This label of this rosé lacks identity, so I relied on Bibi Graetz’s website, which explained that it’s a Tuscan wine made entirely from 50 to 80-year-old Sangiovese vines. The grape variety and the age of the vines helps explain why this bubbly delivers such pleasure. … Read more
Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “L’Alberello” 2015
($80, Winebow): The Bertarelli family, who owns Colle Massari, a leading estate in Montecucco, also owns Grattamacco in Bolgheri. They founded Grattamacco in 1977, shortly after Sassicaia was established nearby. Grattamacco’s flagship wine, also named Grattamacco and priced at $135+ a bottle, is an unusual blend for Bolgheri because it includes a little Sangiovese, a grape not widely planted in that part of Tuscany. … Read more
Khareba Winery, Kakheti (Georgia) Krakhuna 2017
($15, Provence Wine Imports): Wines from Georgia — the country, not the state — are all the rage currently, in part because of their eye-catching traditional winemaking technique: Fermenting the wine in qvevri, egg-shaped terracotta pots buried in the ground. It turns out that not all Georgian wines are made that way. … Read more
Khareba Winery, Kakheti (Georgia) Saperavi 2015
($15, Provence Wine Imports): The Saperavi (Sah-pay-rah-vee) grape is the most widely planted red variety in the country of Georgia. Similar to Khareba’s white wine from the Krakhuna grape, they also eschew fermentation in qvevri, preferring stainless steel to capture the grape’s fruitiness and keep the wine fresh and bright. … Read more
Charles Heidsieck, Champagne (France) “Réserve” Brut NV
($69, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This is a fabulously complex and elegant Champagne. Yes, it’s pricey for a non-vintage Champagne, but I think it’s worth it. The website says that their non-vintage wine is an equal blend of all three varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, that has been aged on the lees for three years. … Read more
Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Roussanne “Roux Beauté” 2017
($50, Sovereign Wine Imports): Roussanne, an important white grape in the Rhône Valley, has taken hold in Australia. Though usually blended with Marsanne and other varieties, Yangarra uses it exclusively in this wine. The grape takes its name from the russet (roux) like color of the mature grapes, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes. … Read more
Villa Sandi, Prosecco Treviso DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Il Fresco” NV
($16, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Prosecco Treviso is a cut above wines labeled simply Prosecco, according to Stefano Gava, Villa Sandi’s chief winemaker, because the grapes come from a more limited area. This wine reflects that. Fresh and light, it’s a very friendly bubbly, with a subtle creaminess and less aggressive fizziness. … Read more
J. de Villebois, Touraine AOP (Loire Valley, France) Sauvignon Blanc 2018
($16, Vineyard Brands): The Loire Valley is home to a vast number of wines made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, the best known of which are those from Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé appellations. But other appellations, such as the wider one, Tourraine, should not be forgotten, especially as prices of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé rise. … Read more
Joseph Mellot, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Chatellenie” 2018
($29): To my mind, authentic Sancerre delivers more than simply Sauvignon Blanc bite and grassy fruitiness. And this one does just that. Though not as mineral-y as some — I suspect because of the ripeness of the vintage — a lovely chalk-y mineral component still peeks through and is especially apparent in the finish.… Read more