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Case for Quarantine 2.0

Times like this remind us of the things that are really important in life.  In the big picture, wine, though it plays a significant part in my life, is not among them.  Compared to the death and disease around us and the prospect of a looming economic recession, and maybe a depression, writing about wine seems trivial. … Read more

Case for Quarantine 2.0

Times like this remind us of the things that are really important in life.  In the big picture, wine, though it plays a significant part in my life, is not among them.  Compared to the death and disease around us and the prospect of a looming economic recession, and maybe a depression, writing about wine seems trivial. … Read more

Penner-Ash, McMinnville (Oregon) Old Vine Riesling Hyland Vineyard 2017

($35):  Many consumers shy away from Riesling because it comes in a range of sweetness, which is not always apparent from the label.  Penner-Ash uses the scale developed by the International Riesling Foundation on the back label that indicates this wine is “medium dry” on the scale that goes from “dry” (the least sweet) to “sweet” with “medium dry” and “medium sweet” in between. Read more

Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “L’Alberello” 2015

($80, Winebow):  The Bertarelli family, who owns Colle Massari, a leading estate in Montecucco, also owns Grattamacco in Bolgheri.  They founded Grattamacco in 1977, shortly after Sassicaia was established nearby.  Grattamacco’s flagship wine, also named Grattamacco and priced at $135+ a bottle, is an unusual blend for Bolgheri because it includes a little Sangiovese, a grape not widely planted in that part of Tuscany. Read more

Yangarra, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Roussanne “Roux Beauté” 2017

($50, Sovereign Wine Imports):  Roussanne, an important white grape in the Rhône Valley, has taken hold in Australia.  Though usually blended with Marsanne and other varieties, Yangarra uses it exclusively in this wine.  The grape takes its name from the russet (roux) like color of the mature grapes, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine GrapesRead more

Brunello 2015: Less is More

The 2015 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is being heralded as a 5-star vintage (the top rating) by the notoriously easy-grading Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the trade group that represents producers in Montalcino.  Retailers around the country have jumped onto the bandwagon with enthusiastic praise for the 2015 vintage. Read more

Villa Sandi, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2018

($22, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  There’s Prosecco and then there’s Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene, which comes from sloped sites at the heart of the Prosecco production area.  The 2018 from Villa Sandi, one the region’s leading producers, is graceful and lacey.  Though labeled Brut, there is a pleasing softness to it without being sweet. Read more

Vignobles Gunther-Chéreau, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) “Les Vergers” Sur Lie 2016

($20):  This wine shows that Muscadet, especially those from the subregion Sèvre et Maine, can develop with bottle age.  Most often, consumers think Muscadet should be consumed young with shellfish or other seafood.  And that’s correct.  Muscadet is a delightful — and affordable — wine for seafood. Read more

50th Parallel Estate, Okanagan Valley (British Columbia, Canada) Pinot Noir 2016

($30):  The 50th Parallel Estate consistently makes outstanding Pinot Noir.  Their 2016 is the real thing: a balance of ripe, but not too ripe, fruit flavors intertwined with savory ones.  Fine tannins provide support and allow for immediate consumption.  Both delicate and expressive, it delivers the what I consider the quintessential quality of Pinot Noir, flavor without weight. Read more

Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017

($50):  The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. Read more

Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2017

($32):  Sequoia Grove is an “old-timer” in terms of Napa Valley wineries, having been founded 40 years ago, in 1979.  Their 2017 Napa Valley Chardonnay delivers richness, opulence and a healthy dose of oakiness. Good acidity keeps it fresh. Those looking for subtlety in their Chardonnay should look elsewhere, but those who embrace sumptuousness in their Chardonnay will love it.Read more