($50): Cartizze is a small (roughly 260-acre) steeply sloped area of vineyards that represent the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid. And Sandi’s from their La Rivetta plot within Cartizze fits that perfectly. Oddly, though, Prosecco is nowhere to be found on the label, which is a common practice among Prosecco producers who bottle a Cartizze. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Veneto
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021
($16): Talented and hard-working producers, such as Inama, are resurrecting Soave’s image that was tarnished and virtually destroyed by innocuous swill of the past. Now, wines from the Soave Classico DOC from top producers are frequently providing far more quality than their prices suggest. … Read more
Sommariva, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($17, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): There is Prosecco and then there is the huge step up to Prosecco from the hilly Valdobbiadene – Conegliano region. Of course, it’s a mouthful to pronounce, but it’s worth remembering the distinction when buying Prosecco. … Read more
Vigna 800, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “La Cesolina” 2020
($35): Light and fresh, Le Cesolina is just what you want with Valpolicella. Don’t misinterpret the light and fresh moniker to mean vapid. Not at all. Though this juicy red wine weighs in at a mere 12.5 percent stated alcohol, it delivers plenty of enjoyment with juicy red cherry-like flavors. … Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol — bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Masi, Valpolicella Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Bonacosta” 2020
($17, SM USA): Masi, one of the leading Valpolicella/Amarone producers, makes a wonderful range of wines. Made from the usual Valpolicella grapes, Corvina, Rolindella, and Molinara, Masi’s mid-weight Bonacosta, their “regular” (though there’s nothing regular about it) Valpolicella Classico delivers juicy bright cherry flavors. … Read more
Masi, Rosso Verona IGT (Veneto, Italy) “CampoFiorin” 2019
($19, SM USA): In my opinion, CampoFiorin was Masi’s greatest gift to the world of wine. Basically, Masi created a wine with more oomph and character than Valpolicella, but without the weight and massive profile of Amarone. In short, a mini-Amarone that’s approachable now. … Read more
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Costasera” 2017
($61, SM USA): Masi’s Costasera Amarone is a big — 15 percent stated alcohol—bold, wintertime wine. Amarone is made using only dried grapes, in contrast to their CampoFiorin, which leads to a higher finished alcohol and more power. There is a hint of sweetness in the finish that balances the wine’s intensity. … Read more
Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020
($35, Vinifera): Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella. The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power. Take this Valpolicella Superiore. It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012
($210, Vinifera): This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging. I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it. This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics. Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017
($75, Vinifera): Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant. Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore. As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Cavolo 2017
($70, Vinifera): Brigaldara’a Cavolo Amarone display darker fruit flavors and more weight than their straight Amarone, yet maintains their signature elegance and balance. The 16.0 percent stated alcohol is integrated effortlessly into the flavors and weight. There’s no heat or raisiny flavors here, just purity. … Read more
Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2016
($120, Vinifera): Despite an extra year of bottle age, Brigaldara’s 2016 Amarone “Case Vecie” is far more youthful than any of their 2017s, showing a more tannic structure. Layers of dark dried and fresh fruit notes along with haunting minerality and their hallmark elegance are all still apparent. … Read more
Pasqua, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry 2020
($18, Pasqua USA): Though Prosecco Rosé might be a brilliant marketing tool, combining too hot categories of wine, in reality it is an official Italian DOC. To qualify, the wines must be vintage dated and contain Pinot Noir, both of which will push up the price. … Read more
Valdo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut “Numero 10” 2019
($30, Taub Family Selections): Made using the Metodo Classico (classic method, a.k.a. Champagne method), this Prosecco is, like few — if any — others. With the classic method, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, a labor-intensive and expensive proposition. But the results are worth it because the wine develops additional complexity from the yeast and aging. … Read more
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Famiglia Pasqua” 2016
($45): Amarone, by type, is a big wine because regulations require that it be made from partially dehydrated grapes. Its power comes from the concentration of sugar, resulting in higher alcohol, acids and everything else that occurs as the grapes dry and shrivel. … Read more
Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Mai Dire Mai” 2012
($105): Never say never, the translation of Mai Dire Mai, as in “I never like Amarone,” is appropriate for this massive wine. I’m not usually a fan of Amarone because they can be overwhelming. And that’s what you’d expect from one with a stated-alcohol of 16.5 percent. … Read more
Caposaldo, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2020
($14, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): It may sound like a brilliant marketing ploy, but Prosecco Rosé is a new recognized category with its own DOC. As with all Prosecco — and wine in general, for that matter — there will be an enormous range of quality and style. … Read more
Tenuta Sant’Anna, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2020
($17, Montcalm Wine Importers): At first blush, pun intended, you’d be forgiven for thinking Rosé Prosecco is a marketing tool combining two hot categories of wine. But this one is a serious wine. It has a substantial presence. You can’t help but take note of it. … Read more
I Saltari, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2015
($30, Romano Brands): I Saltari, part of the highly-acclaimed Sartori di Verona wine group, releases their Valpolicella Superiore when they think it’s ready to drink. That explains why the 2015 is the current vintage on the retail market and tastes nothing like most Valpolicella. … Read more
Il Colle, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($20): Established in 1978, Il Colle remains a family-run estate that produces an array of Prosecco. This one shows the beauty of the DOCG, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, compared to a straight DOC Prosecco. It has a finesse and refinement that most DOC Prosecco just don’t deliver. … Read more
Isola Augusta, Trevenezie IGP (Veneto, Italy) Schioppettino 2019
($20): Founded in 1959 by Renzo Bassani, the third generation of the that environmentally-conscious family is now involved. They gradually expanded to about 125 acres of vineyards, which provide sufficient fruit for all their wines. Indeed, they sell some of their grapes to their neighbors. … Read more
Angelini, Prosecco Rosé DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2020
($12): Starting with the 2019 vintage, Prosecco Rosé is an official DOC. Initially, I suspected this category was a brilliant marketing maneuver combining two of the hottest wine categories today. However, producers have told me that Prosecco Rosé should be a premium product that will likely cost more. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto di Carbonare 2017
($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Very different from Inama’s Soave Classico from Vigneto du Lot, their Vigneto di Carbone is equally entrancing, but in an entirely different way. More chalky and crystallined, it dances on the palate. Its laser-like finish reinforces it clean and cutting profile. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneto du Lot 2017
($27, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Inama, one of Soave’s top producers, make a great Soave from a blend of vineyards in that appellation. He also makes two stunning single-vineyard ones — this one, and one from Vigneto di Carbonare. Inama’s Vigneto du Lot has power and finesse balanced by piercing acidity. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Dry NV
($35, Mionetto USA): Cartizze is the top category of Prosecco, and the only “Cru” entitled to its own appellation. It sits atop the Prosecco quality pyramid because it is the best place within the Valdobbiadene zone to grow the Glera grape, the one used for Prosecco. … Read more
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) Vigneti di Foscarino Vecchie Vigne 2017
($23, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): One of the reasons I love Soave is that — when made by top producers such as Inama — the wines over-deliver. The region is still trying to recover from its reputation of dilute innocuous wines. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($19, Mionetto USA): There’s Prosecco, and then there’s Valdobbiadene Prosecco. The difference is location, location, location: where the grapes grow. Tasting the wonderful range of Mionetto’s Prosecco is extremely instructive. Their DOC Prosecco Treviso, reviewed here previously, is very good and very well-priced. … Read more
Villa Sandi, Prosecco Treviso DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Il Fresco” NV
($16, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Prosecco Treviso is a cut above wines labeled simply Prosecco, according to Stefano Gava, Villa Sandi’s chief winemaker, because the grapes come from a more limited area. This wine reflects that. Fresh and light, it’s a very friendly bubbly, with a subtle creaminess and less aggressive fizziness. … Read more
Villa Sandi, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2018
($22, Folio Fine Wine Partners): There’s Prosecco and then there’s Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene, which comes from sloped sites at the heart of the Prosecco production area. The 2018 from Villa Sandi, one the region’s leading producers, is graceful and lacey. Though labeled Brut, there is a pleasing softness to it without being sweet. … Read more
Giusti, Pinot Grigio dell Venezie DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Longheri” 2017
($18, Romano Brands): A sea of mediocre — at best — Pinot Grigio on retailers’ shelves creates an enormous hurdle for the consumer. The grape and wine have become a brand by itself. You see it at events or at bars when people order “a glass of Pinot Grigio” without reference to the producer. … Read more
Giusti, Pinot Grigio dell Venezie DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Longheri” 2017
($18, Romano Brands): A sea of mediocre — at best — Pinot Grigio on retailers’ shelves creates an enormous hurdle for the consumer. The grape and wine have become a brand by itself. You see it at events or at bars when people order “a glass of Pinot Grigio” without reference to the producer. … Read more
Ponte, Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($12): Though Prosecco has become — for some — the generic word for any wine with bubbles, this one actually is one from the mandated area in the northeastern Italy. Extra Dry, in this case, and, as with all sparkling wines, actually means a hint of sweetness. … Read more
Ca’ di Rajo, Prosecco Treviso (Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV
($20): Prosecco has taken the world by storm, which means the quality varies from awful to innocuous to very good. Put Ca’ di Rajo’s in the latter category. Weighing in at only 11 percent-stated alcohol, it is, amazingly, both fruity and dry. … Read more
Carpenè Malvolti, Veneto (Italy) Rosé, Cuvée Brut NV
($18, Angelini Wine, Ltd): Carpenè Malvolti, a top Prosecco producer, has fashioned this rosé bubbly from Pinot Noir (85%) and Rabosco, grown in the Veneto. Since rosé is not recognized as Prosecco category, this wine carries no legal designation. But don’t let that bother you. … Read more
Mionetto, Prosecco Treviso DOC (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($13): With a lot of producers taking advantage of the popularity of Prosecco and producing vapid characterless swill, it’s a pleasure to find a bottle of the real thing. Clean and refreshing, this one has a welcome hint of bitterness in the finish that actually amplifies the wine’s fruitiness.… Read more
Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2016
($18): Wines, such as this one, explain the popularity of Soave. Sadly, Soave’s image tarnished over the years as industrial producers capitalized on the name’s popularity sacrificing quality along the way. Fortunately, a few producers, such as Pieropan, never wavered in their focus on producing distinctive, high-quality wines reflective of the unique volcanic soil in the hilly heart, or Classico, subzone. … Read more
Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Palazzo della Torre” 2014
($18): Allegrini, a top-tier producer, is one of the locomotives in the Valpolicella area, introducing many consumers to the joys of the wines from that part of Italy. They make an outstanding line-up of wines across the board. Their Palazzo della Torre, a kind of a baby Amarone, is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella whose body has been pumped up with a portion of dried grapes that they add to the newly made wine. … Read more
Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV
($24, Marc de Grazia Selections): Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine. And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary. The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. … Read more
Pieropan, Calvarino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2015
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I Stefanini, Il Selese, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
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Bolla, Tufaie, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
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Prà, Otto, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
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Inama, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2016
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Pieropan, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2017
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Coffele, Castel Cerino, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016
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Inama, Vigneto du Lot, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, 2016
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Gini, La Froscà, Soave, Classico, Soave, Veneto, Italy, 2014
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Valdo Spumanti, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Oro Puro” Brut NV
($15, EDV Esprit du Vin): Often the line between DOC and DOCG — and IGT, for that matter — is blurred as far as quality is concerned. Not this time. For Prosecco that is a cut above the others, reach for the DOCG because it encompasses the original zone where the grapes are grown on less-fertile hillsides, which translates to better wine. … Read more