Category Archives: Italy – Veneto

Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze DOCG (Veneto, Italy) La Rivetta 2021

($50):  Cartizze is a small (roughly 260-acre) steeply sloped area of vineyards that represent the pinnacle of the Prosecco quality pyramid.  And Sandi’s from their La Rivetta plot within Cartizze fits that perfectly.  Oddly, though, Prosecco is nowhere to be found on the label, which is a common practice among Prosecco producers who bottle a Cartizze. Read more

Brigaldara, Valpolicella Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) Case Vecie 2020

($35, Vinifera):  Brigaldara, a family-owned estate since the early 20th century, is one of the leading lights in Valpolicella.  The make a stunning array of wines linked by a gracefulness that belies their power.  Take this Valpolicella Superiore.  It shows a mixture of red and black fruit flavors, but with a healthy dose of savory, non-fruity ones — spices and herbs — that add tremendous intrigue. Read more

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Cantina di Brigaldara” 2012

($210, Vinifera):  This decade-old Amarone has developed beautifully and demonstrates the rewards of aging.  I suspect Brigaldara’s 2016 Case Vecie Amarone will develop along these lines, which is why I suggest cellaring it.  This 2012 Amarone leads with dazzling aromatics.  Then, additional complexity — mature flavors along with fresh and dried dark fruit ones — emerges. Read more

Brigaldara, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG (Veneto, Italy) 2017

($75, Vinifera):  Weighing in at 16.5 percent stated alcohol, this broad-shouldered wine is remarkably elegant.  Indeed, it’s the elegance you notice, not the power, although that’s hard to ignore.  As much as I liked Brigladara’s Valpolicella Classico Casa Vecie, their Amarone just conveys more complexity — a mix of fresh and dried fruit — and power without sacrificing gracefulness. Read more

Valdo, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut “Numero 10” 2019

($30, Taub Family Selections): Made using the Metodo Classico (classic method, a.k.a. Champagne method), this Prosecco is, like few — if any — others.  With the classic method, the secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle, a labor-intensive and expensive proposition.  But the results are worth it because the wine develops additional complexity from the yeast and aging. Read more

Villa Sandi, Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto, Italy) Brut 2018

($22, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  There’s Prosecco and then there’s Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene, which comes from sloped sites at the heart of the Prosecco production area.  The 2018 from Villa Sandi, one the region’s leading producers, is graceful and lacey.  Though labeled Brut, there is a pleasing softness to it without being sweet. Read more

Pieropan, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) 2016

($18):  Wines, such as this one, explain the popularity of Soave.  Sadly, Soave’s image tarnished over the years as industrial producers capitalized on the name’s popularity sacrificing quality along the way.  Fortunately, a few producers, such as Pieropan, never wavered in their focus on producing distinctive, high-quality wines reflective of the unique volcanic soil in the hilly heart, or Classico, subzone.  Read more

Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Palazzo della Torre” 2014

($18):  Allegrini, a top-tier producer, is one of the locomotives in the Valpolicella area, introducing many consumers to the joys of the wines from that part of Italy.  They make an outstanding line-up of wines across the board.  Their Palazzo della Torre, a kind of a baby Amarone, is a blend of Corvina and Rondinella whose body has been pumped up with a portion of dried grapes that they add to the newly made wine. Read more

Bortolotti, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (Veneto, Italy) Brut NV

($24, Marc de Grazia Selections):  Prosecco has replaced “Champagne” in the U.S. as the new default name for any sparkling wine.  And with its popularity has come an extraordinary range of quality from insipid to extraordinary.  The best Proseccos, such as this one, come from hillside vineyards, which carry their own DOCG, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, as opposed to those that come from the flat lands. Read more

Valdo Spumanti, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Oro Puro” Brut NV

($15, EDV Esprit du Vin):   Often the line between DOC and DOCG — and IGT, for that matter — is blurred as far as quality is concerned.  Not this time.  For Prosecco that is a cut above the others, reach for the DOCG because it encompasses the original zone where the grapes are grown on less-fertile hillsides, which translates to better wine. Read more