($45, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  For over a decade now, Muscadet has a cru system, analogous to the Beaujolais crus.  That is, identification of towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive and noteworthy wines.  Wines from the Muscadet cru must have lower yields and be aged on the lees longer. … Read more

($32):  The appellation needs some explanation.  But first, what needs no explanation is La Pépière, one the finest producers of Muscadet.  They are so consistent, it is safe to say if you see their name on a label, you should buy the wine. … Read more

($28):  Mountlouis-sur-Loire lies across the Loire River from Vouvray and uses the same Chenin Blanc grape for its captivatingly delicious wines.  Similar in style to Vouvray, they vary from dry, like this one, to sweet.  A waiter at GrandCoeur, an exceptional new-wave bistro in the Marais section of Paris, recommended this one to me. … Read more

($24, Vintus):  First a bit of trivia. Note the absence of a “hat” accent over the a in Chateau.  That’s because it’s not a building but rather a proper name.  In 1912, Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded what has become the standard bearer of Loire Valley sparkling wines. … Read more

($25):  Luneau-Papin, one of the top producers in the Muscadet region, farms all their vineyards organically and biodynamically.  They have may bottlings, each of which focuses on the unique soil, exposure, and microclimate of the specific site.  This one, Terre de Pierre, comes from the La Butte de la Roche site whose red ochre earth is “legendary” in the area, according to their website. … Read more

($48):  Savennières Roche aux Moines is one of two crus of the greater Savennières appellation (the other is Coulée de Serrant). Though the tiny area (80 acres) has been known for distinctive wines since the 12th century, it received its own appellation, carved out of the broader Savennières, in 2011. … Read more

($87, Vintus):  Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation of barely 75 acres, is the only Grand Cru in the Loire Valley.  It is arguably the “Montrachet of the Loire,” only it produces spectacular sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape.  What makes these wines so special is their elegance and lightness juxtaposed to their presence and persistence. … Read more

($20):  The Loire Valley produces a lot of sparkling wines under Crémant de la Loire appellation.  Often overlooked are sparkling ones from other Loire appellations, such as this one from Saumur, an appellation that predates that of Crémant de la Loire and mandates that the grape come a smaller area just around the town of Saumur. … Read more

($20):  Crémant de la Loire is a category of sparkling wines that consumers should embrace.  Many of these traditionally made (secondary fermentation in the bottle as with Champagne) bubblies provide great enjoyment at an affordable price. Take De Chanceny’s Brut Nature, for example. … Read more

($20):  The Loire Valley’s Saumur-Champigny appellation is a treasure trove for mid-weight Cabernet Franc-based red wines.  Cabernet Franc, a grape that doesn’t tolerate drought well, is perfectly suited to the sponge-like water retaining capacity of the tuffeau stone (local name for chalk, which is omnipresent in this appellation that surrounds the picturesque town of Saumur) and explains why that grape accounts for well over 90 percent of the plantings in the appellation. … Read more

($26, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):  Chenin Blanc makes a wide range of wine, from this bone-dry version to fruity ones and lusciously sweet examples.  Although regulations for Savennières, a small 350-acre appellation on the north side of the Loire River just southwest of Angers, allow for sweet wines, in reality the vast majority of wines from the appellation are dry. … Read more

($19, Deprez Wines):  Looking for a wine with a cheese course?  Look no further.  Producers in the Coteaux de Layon, a small appellation in the Loire, transform the Chenin Blanc grape into lush sweet wines, such as this one.  Dark straw yellow, the wine delivers a honeyed richness first in its aromas and then on the palate. … Read more

($24, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):  Cognoscenti know Reuilly, a tiny (300-acre) off the beaten track appellation in the eastern Loire, for its Sauvignon Blanc-based wines — kind of a mini-Sancerre.  Curiously, Denis Jamain has more Pinot Noir planted there than Sauvignon Blanc (~20 acres versus 15). … Read more

($70, Vineyard Road):  Thierry Germain at Domaine des Roches Neuves is one of the Loire’s young superstars.  He makes a range of reds from Cabernet Franc, as is the tradition in Saumur Champigny.  This one, one of his top cuvées, comes from a 4.5-acre terraced plot of 70-year old vines. … Read more

($16):  Bouvet Ladubay, one of the Loire’s largest producers of sparkling wine, is back under Monmousseau family control since 2015, after having been run by a succession of corporate enterprises.  This mid-weight rosé, made exclusively from Cabernet Franc grown in the Saumur region of the Loire Valley, delivers spice with a hint of sweetness. … Read more

($25, Vintus):  Langlois-Chateau, though best known for their sparkling wines, also makes noteworthy still wines, such as this Sancerre.  The appealing bite of Sauvignon Blanc is apparent, but it speaks of minerals and chalk rather than overt fruitiness.  Fresh, bright and clean, it’s a refreshing and graceful expression of that grape.… Read more

($23, Vintus):  Edouard Langlois and Jeanne Chateau founded their eponymous company in 1912 and has been a leading producer of Crémant de Loire ever since.  This, their standard NV Brut, is a blend of Chenin Blanc (at least 60%), and roughly equal parts of Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. … Read more

($30, Cynthia Hurley French Wines):  White wine from Chinon is unusual since 95 percent of the appellation’s output is red.  Couly-Dutheil, one of Chinon’s top domaines, consistently produces a fabulous example of white Chinon along with their stellar range of red Chinon wines. … Read more

($29):  To my mind, authentic Sancerre delivers more than simply Sauvignon Blanc bite and grassy fruitiness.  And this one does just that.  Though not as mineral-y as some — I suspect because of the ripeness of the vintage — a lovely chalk-y mineral component still peeks through and is especially apparent in the finish.… Read more

($26, Vineyard Brands):  Joost de Willebois, a Dutch financier, knows a business opportunity when he sees it.  In 2004, he found a small Loire winery owned by someone who had no successor and he bought it with the idea of transforming it into something larger. … Read more

($26, Vineyard Brands):  People often ask what is the difference between Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.  Regulations require that both wines are made exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc.  Sancerre is on the west bank of the Loire while Pouilly sur Loire, the town that gives the wine its name, is about 10 miles away on the east bank of the river. … Read more

($20):  This wine shows that Muscadet, especially those from the subregion Sèvre et Maine, can develop with bottle age.  Most often, consumers think Muscadet should be consumed young with shellfish or other seafood.  And that’s correct.  Muscadet is a delightful — and affordable — wine for seafood. … Read more

($52, Oz Wine Company):  Most of the wine made from Chenin Blanc, the primary white grape in Saumur, went into sparkling wine or non-distinguished still wine.  That has changed over the last couple of decades, with talented and focused producers, such as Château Yvonne, and others. … Read more

($41, Becky Wasserman & Co.):  Domaine Guiberteau is one of Saumur’s top producers.  As much as I hate to say it because it diminishes my role as a critic, I will:  It’s hard to go wrong just picking their wines blindly. … Read more

($25):  Though the vast majority (>95%) of wine from Chinon is red and made from Cabernet Franc, noteworthy and distinctive whites made from Chenin Blanc also carry that appellation.  This is one of them.  Couly-Dutheil is one of the top Chinon producers, making a bevy of easy-to-recommend reds year after year, so it should come as no surprise that they can make this stellar white wine. … Read more

($28):  This wonderful sparkler is not your typical Crémant de Loire Rosé.  Made entirely from Cabernet Franc, it has all of the allure of the grape with power and depth.  It’s been aged on the lees for 36 months, which imparts a lovely texture. … Read more

($23):   Although made entirely from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, as required by regulations, Jolivet’s v never screams that grape.  Sure, you sense a bite, characteristic of the varietal, but the overall impression is one of a minty minerality with an enlivening citrus finish. … Read more

($17, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Taittinger, a top Champagne house, has owned Bovet-Ladubay since the mid-1970s and that likely explains, at least in part, the wine’s elegance and focus.  A blend of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, this bubbly is steely, crisp, and refreshing. … Read more

($13, Vintage ’59 Imports):  Claude Branger along with his wife, Thérèse, and son, Sébastien, run this family property, also known as Domaine Haut Févrie.  They are an exceptional team, insisting on hand harvesting, which is unusual in Muscadet, and committed to converting fully to organic production. … Read more

($13, Vintners Alliance):  Rosé d’Anjou always has a hint — sometimes more — of sweetness since regulations require a minimum of 7 grams of residual sugar per liter.  In my mind, the residual sugar in this rosé does what it does in German Kabinett wines: it amplifies the fruitiness without imparting a cloying sweetness because of the wine’s inherent vibrant and balancing acidity. … Read more

($13, Misa Imports Inc): Sooner or later, consumers will discover the joys of red wine from Anjou.  And of course, then the price will go up.  But for now, stock up on this mid-weight red.  Pleasantly austere, this Cabernet Franc-based wine focuses on herbal notes as opposed to just ripe fruity one. … Read more

($22):  Vouvray is potentially one of the world’s great wines.  Made from Chenin Blanc, a grape that, like Riesling or Chardonnay, can transmit the flavors of the site beautifully.  But sadly, buying it is tricky and can be frustrating because it has a wide range of styles, from sweet to dry and riveting. … Read more

($25, AP Wine Imports):  Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost.  Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. … Read more

($20):  In addition to still wines, Vouvray is also home to delightful sparkling wines.  Made exclusively from Chenin Blanc, this one combines the subtle fruitiness of that grape with a racy spine of bubbles.  Slighter fruitier than Champagne, but similarly enlivening, it’s a good choice this summer.… Read more

($20):  Three years aging on the lees of this Chenin Blanc-based sparkling wine explains its enormous depth and refinement.   It’s a lovely expression of Vouvray, with a perfect balance of lively fruitiness backed by a firm spine.  Elegant and long, it’s a good choice for simply grilled fish this summer.  … Read more

($40):  Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire.  He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search.  Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual).  Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve.… Read more

($26):  The wonderful thing about really good Sancerre is that, though made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, it doesn’t taste like most Sauvignon Blanc, which can be raspy and vegetal.  Good Sancerre, such as Mellot’s, has a chalky minerality underpinning the bite provided by the grape. … Read more

($25):  The vast amount (95%) of wine made in Chinon, one of many picturesque villages in the Loire Valley, is red.  Although limited, the amount of white, made from Chenin Blanc grapes, is increasing because of its immediate appeal to consumers. … Read more

($50):  An extraordinary wine from an obscure area, the Domaine du Closel’s Savennières is thrilling in the best sense of the word.  Thrilling because you don’t expect it.  As in, where did this come from and why haven’t I heard about these wines? … Read more

($21, Vintage ’59 Imports):  Wines from the Muscadet area, the far west of the Loire Valley, especially those from the sub-region Sèvre et Maine, are fabulous with simple seafood, such as oysters or steamed clams.  Louis Métaireau’s Grand Mouton is a “go-to” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine for just such fare. … Read more

($10, North Berkeley Wine):  Recommending a wine for summertime consumption with the thermometer in single digits and a foot of snow of the ground may be a new definition of optimism.  But the quality/price ratio here makes me want to buy this wine before it disappears.… Read more

($21, Savio Soares Selections): Though Vouvray is usually thought of as a fruity, zesty still white wine, plenty of sparkling wine comes from that appellation as well.  The Chenin Blanc-based bubbly is dry and cutting, not exactly the profile you’d necessarily expect from that usually fruity grape. … Read more

($30, Neal Rosenthal): This is the real deal.  Sancerre has become so popular that some producers over crop to keep up with demand.  As a result, many of the wines carrying that appellation are uninteresting, tasting like a Sauvignon from, well, anywhere. … Read more

($21, Michael Corso Selection): I love Vouvray.  My frustration with the wines is that it’s often difficult to tell the level of sweetness before pulling the cork.  Thankfully, this one, labeled Sec, accurately describes the wine.  It captures the tension — the steely dryness combined with a delicate fruitiness — that makes Vouvray so invigorating. … Read more

($13, Martin Scott): Muscadet remains one of the great bargains for white wines because it still has a down-market image despite the work and talents of producers, such as Jo Landron who, along with this wife, owns the Domaine de la Louvetrie. … Read more

($47): Anne-Claude Leflaive, the late famed Burgundy producer, and Christian Jacques, her husband, acquired Clau de Nell in 2008.  Similar to Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, the vineyards at Clau de Nell are farmed biodynamically.  People can — and do — argue whether biodynamic philosophy is hocus pocus or whether it is responsible for superior wines. … Read more

($15): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness.  Domaine de la Robinière (a.k.a. Vincent& Julien Raimbault) help the consumer by labeling their “Bel Air” cuvée as Sec — and it is dry with exhilarating green apple-like freshness that enhances its bracing minerality. … Read more

($16, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness.  Here’s yet another example.  There’s no indication on the front label regarding level of sweetness. … Read more

($16): It’s worth repeating: The Vouvray appellation is home to an array of fabulous under-valued white wines.  A major impediment to their more widespread popularity is the confusion regarding the level of sweetness.  And this wine is a perfect example.  The label reads “Demi-Sec,” which implies sweetness. … Read more

($53): Philippe Foreau and his family-owned estate, Domaine du Clos Naudin, is one of the stars of Vouvray.  The Domaine consists of just under 30 acres of Chenin Blanc vines, from which Foreau makes a stunning range of wines.  This one, Moelleux, which means sweet, has apricot nuances and an invigorating freshness. … Read more