Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014

($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine.  And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace.  Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2014

($30, Louis Latour USA): Simonnet-Febvre owns a piece of the Mont de Milieu vineyard, which may explain why it is always one of their top wines.  Mont de Milieu (literally, the mountain in the middle), located on the right bank of Serein River near the strip of Grand Cru vineyards, takes its name from its location in the middle, separating the dukedoms of Burgundy and Champagne of the past. Read more

The Renaissance at Jessiaume: A Multi-National Collaboration

In parochial Burgundy, where even French citizens from outside the region are viewed with skepticism, an American–and a woman no less–is leading the Anglo-American-French team that is intent on resurrecting Domaine Jessiaume.  With the quintessential Burgundian tiles adorning their building, Domaine Jessiaume, which dates from the mid-19th century, is one of Santenay’s iconic properties. Read more

Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Genevrières 2014

($96): Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a grower, owning over 300-acres of vineyards in the Côte d’Or, including 30-acres of Grand Cru and about 180-acres of Premier Cru.  They consistently excel in their Meursault.  This magnificent Meursault Genevrières is a blend of two plots, totaling over 6-acres, that they own. Read more

Domaine Louis Latour, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Caradeux 2014

($35, Louis Latour USA): This is what everyone is looking for in white Burgundy — an affordable overachiever.  Three elements come together in a “perfect storm” to create this overachiever.  First, there’s the village itself.  Pernand-Vergelesses lies “behind” the hill of Corton (to the west) and is often overlooked since it is hidden as you drive the main road of the Côte d’Or. Read more

Domaine Parent, Corton Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2014

($190, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): White Corton is a rarity, since most producers label it Corton-Charlemagne.  Indeed, Anne Parent, who runs the eponymous domaine with her sister, Catherine, says she legally could label hers as Corton-Charlemagne, but since it comes from the east-facing portion of the hill in the Ladoix-Serrigny commune, she prefers to label it simply…Corton. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2014

($21, Louis Latour USA): With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, it’s always a delight to find authentic red Burgundy, especially from the revered Côte de Nuits, that is affordable.  Marsannay, the most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits, is practically a suburb of Dijon, resulting in a constant battle between vineyards and suburban housing. Read more

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014

($102, Esprit du Vin):  Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. Read more

Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014

($104, Esprit du Vin):  Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. Read more

Domaine Humbert Frères, Fixin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2014

($50, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s a sad commentary of wine pricing when a bottle of Burgundy from Fixin, one of the least prestigious villages in the Côtes de Nuits, costs fifty bucks.  But that’s life, and compared to many of the Pinot Noir coming out of California, it’s still a reasonable price for a wine made from that grape–especially this one. Read more

Domaine Faiveley, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2014

($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that — like so many domaines today — also has a négociant business.  This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards. Read more

Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2014

($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Need more evidence that the 2014 white Burgundies are terrific?  Here, at the bottom of the Burgundy prestige ladder — Bourgogne Blanc — is a great bargain.  Wines labeled Bourgogne Blanc can come from grapes — always Chardonnay — grown anywhere in Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. Read more