The label predicts great things for this wine—Christian Moreau Père et Fils (not be confused with J. Moreau & Fils) is a top-notch producer and 2014 was a great year for Chablis—and the wine delivers them. Cuvée Guy Moreau comes from a 2.5-acre plot planted in an ideal portion of the vineyard by Guy Moreau in 1934.… Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Château des Quarts, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Clos des Quarts 2013
($70, Becky Wasserman Selection): Seventy bucks for Pouilly-Fuissé? That’ll get your attention, but so will the quality of this wine. It’s a joint venture between two Burgundy super-stars, Dominique Lafon from Meursault and Olivier Merlin from the Mâconnais, who purchased the vineyard together. … Read more
Olivier Merlin, Macon Blanc (Burgundy, France) La Roche Vineuse 2013
($21, Becky Wasserman Selection): I first became aware of Domaine Merlin’s wine when I tasted — no, drank — his stunning Moulin-à-Vent in a Paris bistro. I’ve been a fan ever since. It turns out that the Domaine makes stunning white wine as well. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) Clos du Roy 2014
($49, Becky Wasserman Selection): The producers in Marsannay have petitioned the authorities to elevate some of their vineyards, all of which now are lumped together and sold under the village name, to Premier Cru. Clos du Roy is a prime candidate for promotion as this wine demonstrates. … Read more
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) La Chapître 2012
($57, Becky Wasserman Selection): Sylvain Pataille, a terrific producer based in Marsannay, produces this Bourgogne rouge from vines that average about 35 years of age. Indeed, a third of the vines in this 2.5-acre vineyard date from 1950s. The old vines explain the gorgeous complexity and density you rarely fine in Bourgogne Rouge. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) 2014
($12, Louis Latour USA): Though the appellation is just Saint Bris, the wines are often referred to as Sauvignon St. Bris, incorporating the name of the grape into the appellation. Saint Bris, located just southwest of Chablis, is an anomaly in Burgundy because it is the only area where Sauvignon Blanc is allowed, indeed, required. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne (Burgundy, France) 2014
($135, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, the largest owner of the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne, consistently makes superb examples of that wine. They show their glory with a decade of bottle age. I’ve not tasted all producers’ Corton Charlemagne so I can’t say Latour is “the best,” but for the price, there’s nobody even close. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Louis Latour USA): The 2014 vintage was superb in Chablis and the rest of Burgundy for white wines. Prices have nowhere to go but up because of the short crop in 2016, so I advise friends to buy as many 2014 white Burgundies as they can afford. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2014
($21, Louis Latour USA): With the prices of Burgundy going through the roof, it’s always a delight to find authentic red Burgundy, especially from the revered Côte de Nuits, that is affordable. Marsannay, the most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits, is practically a suburb of Dijon, resulting in a constant battle between vineyards and suburban housing. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($55, Louis Latour USA): Village Burgundians, those wines made from vineyards that are not classified as Premier or Grand Cru, are often overlooked. Burgundy collectors typically scramble to buy the wines from those more revered appellations. Wise consumers, however, should look for village wines from top growers or négociants, such as this one. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules “Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot” 2013
($90, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Maison Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, is also a “grower,” owning vineyards under a variety of Domaine names, such as Domaine Héritiers Louis Jadot (i.e., the heirs of Louis Jadot), throughout the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Caillerets 2014
($102, Esprit du Vin): Les Caillerets, one of the grandest premier cru vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, lies further south and further up the slope from Les Blanchots. Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay’s 2014, a bit closed at this stage, is tightly wound and racy, showing a dramatic stony minerality in contrast to the chalkiness from Les Blanchots Dessus. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Blanchots Dessus 2014
($104, Esprit du Vin): Les Blanchots Dessus (upper Blanchots; note the slight difference in spelling and, at least according to the French, but not this Anglophone, an enormous difference in pronunciation) comprises the upper part of the Blanchots vineyard and lies immediately to the south and adjacent to the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Montrachet. … Read more
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay, Chassagne-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) 2014
($64, Esprit du Vin): The Domaine Coffinet, established in 1860 in Chassagne-Montrachet, has been passed from one generation of the Coffinet family to the next. In 1989, Fernand and Cécile Coffinet split their 30-acre domaine between their two daughters, giving rise to Domaine Coffinet-Duverney, now run by Laura Coffinet and Philippe Duvernay.… Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Chouacheux Domaine Gagey 2013
($57, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2013 vintage in Burgundy was difficult because rain during the harvest had the potential to swell the grapes, diluting them and the wine. Plus, dampness during harvest is a set up for rot. But talented producer, such as Louis Jadot, makes excellent wines even in “difficult” years. … Read more
Roger Lassarat, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) Le Cras 2012
($30, Martin Scott): The prices of white Burgundy from the Côte d’Or have put those wines out of reach for most of us, which means those looking for the distinctive expression of Chardonnay from Burgundy must look elsewhere. Fortunately, there are talented growers “elsewhere” making wines that out perform their appellation. … Read more
Goisot, Saint Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon Blanc “Exogyra Virgula” 2014
($19): Though Saint Bris, an obscure part of Burgundy adjacent to Chablis, shares the same Kimmeridgian limestone as that famous appellation, it must use Sauvignon Blanc — not Chardonnay — for its wines. Grape variety not withstanding, the Goisot family works magic at their domaine. … Read more
Domaine Denis Race, Chablis 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2014
($28, Martin Scott): Consumers would be wise to snap up this stunning Chablis because prices for all Chablis have nowhere to go but up. The hail and other storms in Chablis so far in 2016 will reduce this year’s yield dramatically and will force prices of all Chablis that have yet to hit the market to rise. … Read more
Domaine Jolly et Fils, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume (L’Homme Mort) 2014
($28, Esprit du Vin): The Fourchaume vineyard, really a collection of neighboring plots all of which can be sold under the Fourchaume label, is known for producing the most generous and fruity Chablis. That said, they typically have, like this one from L’Homme Mort (“the dead man”), a riveting underpinning. … Read more
J. J. Vincent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) “Marie Antoinette” 2014
($26, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): If J. J. Vincent’s name is on a label, you can buy the wine with confidence knowing that you’ll enjoy it. Vincent, based in Pouilly-Fuissé, owns several vineyards in that appellation and makes distinctive wines from each of them, highlighting the diversity of the terroir there. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Epenots 2014
($140, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Parent, a top producer based in Pommard, has made a great array of wines in 2014. While many 2014 reds are forward and charming, Parent’s Les Epenots has structure and balance that will reward years of cellaring. … Read more
Domaine Lignier-Michelot, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Faconnières 2014
($105, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): I often wonder who is spending $100+ for a bottle of wine. I will not presume to judge whether this bottle, or any bottle, is worth that amount. What I will say is that Domaine Lignier-Michelot’s Morey St.… Read more
Domaine Humbert Frères, Fixin (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2014
($50, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s a sad commentary of wine pricing when a bottle of Burgundy from Fixin, one of the least prestigious villages in the Côtes de Nuits, costs fifty bucks. But that’s life, and compared to many of the Pinot Noir coming out of California, it’s still a reasonable price for a wine made from that grape–especially this one. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Meursault (Burgundy, France) 2014
($60, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Here is another shining example of the grandeur of the 2014 vintage for white Burgundy. Drouhin, one of the region’s finest producers, has fashioned a village wine that could pass for premier cru. It has a touch of the spice and complexity I associate with Meursault Genevrières. … Read more
Drouhin Domaine Vaudon, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($75, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Domaine Vaudon is the name Drouhin uses for their Chablis. They want to emphasize, justifiably, that they own substantial vineyards there because of the foresight of the patriarch, Robert Drouhin, who purchased vineyards there almost 50 year ago. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2014
($65, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): It’s worth repeating: 2014 is a great vintage for white Burgundies, without doubt the best since 2010 and in the same league as those wines. In short, don’t miss them, including this modestly priced — for Grand Cru Burgundy — Chablis Vaudésir. … Read more
Pommier, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($25, Polaner Selections): The 2014 vintage for white Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south, is exceptional. This village Chablis, from a small but top-notch producer, is just one example of the great values the vintage will provide. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Rully Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Cloux 2014
($30, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The white Burgundies from the 2014 vintage are stunning — the best since the grand 2010 vintage. Here’s just another example. The white wines from Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise can be very appealing because they convey an underlying stoniness. … Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2014
($300, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Under Erwan Faiveley’s leadership, Maison Faiveley has been transformed from a good négociant to an exceptional domaine that — like so many domaines today — also has a négociant business. This Corton-Charlemagne, from the super 2014 vintage, comes from their just over 1.5 acres in Corton Charlemagne vineyards. … Read more
Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Sétilles” 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Need more evidence that the 2014 white Burgundies are terrific? Here, at the bottom of the Burgundy prestige ladder — Bourgogne Blanc — is a great bargain. Wines labeled Bourgogne Blanc can come from grapes — always Chardonnay — grown anywhere in Burgundy, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. … Read more
Domaine Parent, Pommard (Burgundy, France) “La Croix Blanche” 2014
($71, Jeanne Marie des Champs Selection): There could be a more reliable producer of Pommard than Domaine Parent, but I doubt it. If you want to experience the wines of this famed Burgundian village, Parent is the place to start. Their 2014s are stunning — a term reserved more for the whites of that vintage than for the reds. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) “Grandes Vignes” 2013
($30, Jeanne Maris de Champs Selection): Marsannay, an obscure appellation among the rarified sites in Côte de Nuits, is home to incredible values for Burgundy. I know “incredible value for Burgundy” is an oxymoron, which is why consumers should remember the name Marsannay, a tiny village, which is practically a suburb of Dijon. … Read more
Domaine de Suremain, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2013
($28): It gets more and more difficult to find affordable Burgundy. One needs to venture outside of the major villages of the Côte d’Or, or as in this case, to Mercury, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise. Here the fruity side of Pinot Noir takes on a lovely stony austerity — a complete contrast to New World wine made from the variety. … Read more
Billaud-Simon, Petit Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component. As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers. … Read more
Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaudésir 2013
($94, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Christian Moreau is one of the very top producers in Chablis. This producer rarely stubbles, even in a vintage, such as 2013, a “difficult” one caught between two superb ones — 2012 and 2014. A vintage like 2013 fraught with uneven ripening and rot tests a producer’s ability to work in the vineyard and sort the grapes at harvest. … Read more
Billaud-Simon, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2014
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): As expected, Billaud-Simon’s 2014 Chablis has more flint and less fruit than its 2014 Petit Chablis (also reviewed this week). My advice is to buy a bottle of each and taste them side-by-side. Re-corked and stored in a cold refrigerator, they will remain fresh for a few days — longer than you might think — so you can repeat the experiment nightly, at least for a while.… Read more
Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Myglands 2012
($45, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Domaine Faiveley, though based in Nuits-St. Georges in the heart of the Côte d’Or, has always had a strong presence in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise. Indeed, they own the entire Clos des Myglands, a Premier Cru vineyard, making it a monopole, a rarity in Burgundy where vineyard ownership is usually divided among many growers.… Read more
Maison Joseph Faiveley, Bourgogne Rouge (France) 2013
($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers. And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. … Read more
Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($46, Wilson Daniels): Domaine Leflaive, arguably Burgundy’s finest white wine estate, made a foray into the Mâconnais in 2004, buying 23 acres of Chardonnay vineyards and producing an eye-popping white wine from that region. They have been extremely happy with the project, have expanded it and currently have about 75 acres there. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013
($40): Louis Baisinbert is a name to watch. He is a small négociant — some would call him a “micro-negociant” — buying no more than a half dozen barrels of an individual wine from a single producer. He supplies the barrels, never new oak, and performs the elevage, which is literally raising (finishing) the wine. … Read more
Domaine Vocoret, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Blanchot 2012
($71): Chablis remains an underappreciated, and hence, under priced source of unique white Burgundy. While not inexpensive, it is practically impossible to fine Côte d’Or Grand Cru at this price. And this wine is truly worthy of the Grand Cru moniker. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2013
($40): Baisinbert made just two barrels of this charming red. Wonderfully fragrant, it delivers bright raspberry-like fruitiness without a trace of heaviness or jamminess. He has delivered a wine with good body and concentration, avoiding the leanness often found in wines from Givry. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2013
($66, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most recognizable and prestigious villages in Burgundy, are always pricey. Négociants tell me that it is increasingly difficult for them to find good sources as more and more growers bottle their own production instead of selling it in bulk to négociants.… Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012
($30, Wilson Daniels): Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. … Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Old Bridge Cellars): Maison L’Envoyé brings together Evening Land founder Mark Tarlov and the very talented Burgundy guru, Becky Wasserman (according to their promotional materials, which also tell us that the grapes come from growers’ vineyards in Beaune, the Hautes-Côtes, and even premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets).… Read more
Marie-Pierre Manciat, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Petites Bruyères 2012
($25, Langdon Shiverick Imports): This is another example of why Pouilly-Fuissé is such a popular appellation, home to Chardonnay-based stylish wines at an excellent price. Marie-Pierre took the reins from her father, Claude, in 2002 and, judging from this classy wine, she is a top producer in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais. In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus. The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) La Roche 2012
($41, Vineyard Brands): More and more producers in Beaujolais are treating the area, especially Moulin-à-Vent, like the rest of Burgundy — as it deserves to be in my mind. That is, they are making wine from individual vineyards and labeling them as such. … Read more
Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011
($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne. As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all. … Read more
Samuel Billaud, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2013
($41, Langdon Shiverick Imports): The 2013 vintage lacks the reputation of the great ones, 2010 and 2012, in Chablis. But consumers should not overlook it. Talented producers, such as Samuel Billaud, make excellent wines even in what is often called “difficult” years. … Read more