Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Gravity Exists in Burgundy

In recent memory, prices for Burgundy have seemed to defy gravity—they always rise. The prices at this year’s recently completed Hospices de Beaune auction, the 163rd, actually fell, demonstrating that gravity does exist there. The average price per barrel was €30,839 ($33,642), down 14 percent compared to 2022, but consumers may not notice any difference anytime soon because of the complexity of the market.… Read more

Domaine Mont Bessay, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Le Vieux Bourg 2021

($50, Misa Imports):  Domaine Mont Bessay is a new project from the people who make the beautifully textured wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry.  Just as Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are drawing attention to Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise — not to be confused with Gevrey in the Côte d’Or — they will make the world think differently about Beaujolais cru wines. Read more

Domaine Guillot-Broux, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvrières” 2020

($46, Vintus):  This stunning Bourgogne Rouge will change your mind about the quality of red wines coming from the Mâconnais.  Firstly, Domaine Guillot-Broux is clearly a talented and detail-oriented producer.  They waited 18 years before making a wine from Les Genièvrières, a vineyard in Cruzille, a village not far from the Abbaye de Cluny, because they didn’t think the vines were old enough to produce high-quality wine! Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020

($26, Kobrand):  In a word, delicious!  And an extraordinary value.  You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price.  Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. Read more

Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Celebration” 2020

($63, Kobrand):  Jadot started this unconventional, by Burgundy standards, bottling with the 2009 vintage to celebrate its 150th anniversary.  Contrary to the Burgundy mantra of terroir — a specific delineated location is paramount — Jadot blends wine from upwards of 15 individual premier cru vineyards within Beaune, to produce a wine representative of the best Beaune has to offer (there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune.) Read more

Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) Beaujolais Lantignié 2021

($19, Thomas Calder Selection):  Normally, wines from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation are a blend of wine from several different villages and do not carry the name of an individual village on the label.  However, French regulations allow producers to indicate the village, Lantignié in this case, on the label if all the grapes came from it. Read more

Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020

($375):  Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers.  They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009.  Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” Read more

Maison Louis Latour Made Outstanding 2020s

The 2020 vintage in Burgundy, currently on the market, is the third hot—temperature wise—vintage in a row.  It’s also a “hot” vintage judging from some critics’ reviews and retailers’ enthusiasm.  Hot vintages are tricky, especially in Burgundy.  The good news about growing seasons with hot, sun-drenched days is that the wines have ripe flavors and lack green, unripe ones and the accompanying palate-searing acidity.  … Read more

Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon 2020

($17, Louis Latour, USA):  Saint-Bris is an odd-ball appellation in northern Burgundy near Chablis that requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay.  Saint-Bris sits on the same Kimmerigdian limestone as Chablis, yet the microclimate favors Sauvignon over Chardonnay.  Since Sancerre is barely 60 miles to the west, it’s easy to understand how Sauvignon could thrive here. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2019

($37, Louis Latour, USA):  Wines from Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, are finally getting the attention they deserve.  French wine regulators are evaluating which vineyards within the Marsannay appellation will qualify for premier cru status.  Once that happens, prices will accelerate even faster, much like what has happened since Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards received official premier cru classification. Read more

Aligoté: Burgundy’s Other White Grape

White Burgundy is made from Chardonnay, right?  Well, mostly.  There’s another white grape in Bourgogne, Aligoté, that makes zippy, energetic wines perfect for summertime, and ones that are — I might add — are mostly affordable.  Not an afterthought, Bourgogne Aligoté is treated with respect by top end producers, such as Coche-Dury, whose $300+ per bottle rendition is definitely not in the “affordable wine” category. … Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvres” 2020

($18, Louis Latour, USA):  I’ve been buying and drinking this Mâcon-Lugny from Latour regularly since the 1979 vintage.  It never disappoints and surprisingly, for a rather down-market appellation, actually develops beautifully with several years of bottle age.  With the price of Côte d’Or white Burgundy through the roof, wines, such as this one, from the Mâconnais are the way to go for Burgundy lovers. Read more