In recent memory, prices for Burgundy have seemed to defy gravity—they always rise. The prices at this year’s recently completed Hospices de Beaune auction, the 163rd, actually fell, demonstrating that gravity does exist there. The average price per barrel was €30,839 ($33,642), down 14 percent compared to 2022, but consumers may not notice any difference anytime soon because of the complexity of the market.… Read more
Category Archives: France – Burgundy
Alex Foillard, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2021
($47, Kermit Lynch): First, the backstory. At a Paris bistro, I ordered a glass of 2021 Côte de Brouilly, from Thivin, one of the best producers of that cru. Out came a glass of red wine, which was alluring, mineral-y and dense, and every bit as good as I had expected. … Read more
Domaine Mont Bessay, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) Le Vieux Bourg 2021
($50, Misa Imports): Domaine Mont Bessay is a new project from the people who make the beautifully textured wines at Domaine du Cellier aux Moines in Givry. Just as Philippe Pascal and Guillaume Marko are drawing attention to Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise — not to be confused with Gevrey in the Côte d’Or — they will make the world think differently about Beaujolais cru wines. … Read more
Gilles Copéret, Morgon (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2021
($21, Monsièur Touton Selection): The wines from Morgon, another of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, tend to be firm, rather that fleshy. With its chiseled profile, this long and lively one from Copéret fits that mold. A savory accent of subtle smokiness complements its engaging austerity. … Read more
Domaine Mont Bessay, Juliénas (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) “En Bessay” 2021
($50, Misa Imports): Wines from this new estate have the potential to put Juliénas on the same level as Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent when speaking of the Beaujolais cru. The stunning 2021 En Bessay delivers as explosive array of red fruit and spicy flavors, seamlessly woven together. … Read more
Domaine des Bruyeres, Domaine des Bruyeres (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2020
($22, Peter Weygandt Selection): Chénas, the smallest of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, typically produces dark wines, like this one, that combine minerality and fruitiness. This Chénas from Peter Weygandt, always a reliable name on a back label, displays a charming beefiness balanced by fine, not hard, tannins. … Read more
Domaine Perroud, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) L’Enfer des Balloquets 2020
($23): The wines from Brouilly, the largest of the ten named villages of Beaujolais, typically provide more interest that a straight Beaujolais-Villages. This one supports that generalization. Fine acidity and a hint of tannic structure balances this ripe and generous Brouilly. … Read more
Maison Guillot-Broux, Mâcon Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2019
($23, Vintus): Domaine Guillot-Broux makes exceptional red wines from what most people consider an unexceptional place for them, the Mâconnais. Sure, the Mâconnais is home to a slew of terrific, and well-priced, whites. But reds? It’s not the first, or even the fourth, place people think of for reds. … Read more
Domaine Guillot-Broux, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvrières” 2020
($46, Vintus): This stunning Bourgogne Rouge will change your mind about the quality of red wines coming from the Mâconnais. Firstly, Domaine Guillot-Broux is clearly a talented and detail-oriented producer. They waited 18 years before making a wine from Les Genièvrières, a vineyard in Cruzille, a village not far from the Abbaye de Cluny, because they didn’t think the vines were old enough to produce high-quality wine! … Read more
Domaine Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) Chardonnay 2021
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs): I repeat what I’ve said before: Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Pernot Belicard is a great example of a top producer bottling exceptional white wines at every pedigree. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) Pinot Noir 2021
($22, Kobrand): Value in Burgundy these days is found at the lower pedigree appellations made by talented producers. Enter this Bourgogne Rouge from Jadot. With an engaging combination of savory notes intertwined with hints of red and black fruit, this mid-weight wine is real Burgundy, or Bourgogne as the French would prefer to call it. … Read more
Château de Chamirey, Mercurey Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ruelles 2015
($50): This delightful wine shows that value in Burgundy is alive and well. Owned by the Devillard family, the Château de Chamirey is one of, if not THE, leading estates in Mercurey, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise, just south of the Côte d’Or. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Santenay (Burgundy, France) Clos des Gatsulards 2020
($51, Kobrand): Domaine Gagey in the rectangle at the bottom of the label means that the Gagey family, the longtime directors of Maison Jadot, owns the property. So, in essence, this is an estate wine as opposed to a négociant wine for which Jadot would have purchased the grapes from another grower. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020
($26, Kobrand): In a word, delicious! And an extraordinary value. You rarely see Burgundy of this quality at this price. Jadot, one of Burgundy’s top producers, takes advantage of a relatively new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, which means all the grapes came from the famed Côte d’Or part of Burgundy, rather than the region’s less prestigious subzones. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) “Celebration” 2020
($63, Kobrand): Jadot started this unconventional, by Burgundy standards, bottling with the 2009 vintage to celebrate its 150th anniversary. Contrary to the Burgundy mantra of terroir — a specific delineated location is paramount — Jadot blends wine from upwards of 15 individual premier cru vineyards within Beaune, to produce a wine representative of the best Beaune has to offer (there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune.) … Read more
Henri Perrusset, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2020
($22, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Wines labeled Mâcon-Villages vary from the banal to extraordinary value. Put this one squarely in the latter category. Mâcon-Villages, a regional appellation in southern Burgundy, is large by Burgundy standards, 8,500 acres, and comprises 26 named villages lumped under the same umbrella. … Read more
Jean-Marc Burgaud, Beaujolais Villages (Burgundy, France) Beaujolais Lantignié 2021
($19, Thomas Calder Selection): Normally, wines from the Beaujolais-Villages appellation are a blend of wine from several different villages and do not carry the name of an individual village on the label. However, French regulations allow producers to indicate the village, Lantignié in this case, on the label if all the grapes came from it. … Read more
From Canada’s Quench Magazine – Burgundy: A Look Back at the Last 50 Years and Forward to the Next
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020
($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. … Read more
Don’t Miss Maison Latour’s 2020 Burgundies
Founded in 1797 and still family owned and operated, Maison Louis Latour is one of Burgundy’s top producers. In addition to their own 120 acres of vineyards (over half of which are Grand Cru, making them the largest owner of Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy) they are one of Burgundy’s best négociants as well. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Moulins” 2020
($35, Louis Latour, USA): The Saint Véran appellation abuts Pouilly-Fuissé and, unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s Saint Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Genièvres 2020
($24, Louis Latour, USA): The Mâconnais, a region of Burgundy that lies south of the famed and expensive Côte d’Or, is an unexplored treasure-trove of Chardonnay-based wines. The base of the pedigree pyramid are wines labeled Mâcon-Villages, which means they came from grapes grown anywhere throughout the region. … Read more
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020
($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Santenay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($45, Louis Latour, USA): This Santenay is just one example of the great success Latour had with their village wines in 2020. Characteristic of the vintage, it has good depth that augments its charm. Supple, fresh, and long, it is a delight now — and refined for a village Santenay. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) 2020
($50, Louis Latour, USA): Mercurey, a village just south of the Côte d’Or in the Côte Chalonnaise, is known primarily for red wines. In general, the warmth of 2020 growing season added ripeness to these wines complementing their stoney character. That explains the appeal of this Mercurey from Latour. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($45, Louis Latour, USA): Burgundy lovers have discovered the charms of Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côtes de Nuits. Prices have risen as a result and are poised to continue their climb because the village is in the process of having some vineyards certified as 1er Cru. … Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Corton Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Corton-Perrières 2020
($375): Domaine Méo-Camuzet, located in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy’s top producers. They added a portion of Corton-Perrières, a vineyard that epitomizes the firm austerity of Corton, to their portfolio in 2009. Jean-Nicolas Méo is enthusiastic about the 2020 vintage saying, “[2020] is a great vintage, and you can believe me because I’m selling the 2021.” … Read more
Burgundy Buying Blueprint for the 99-Percenters
Even a brief glance at on-line ads from wine retailers shows that Côte d’Or Burgundy has become prohibitively expensive for everyone except the so called “one-percenters” at the very peak of the wealth pyramid. And I’ve seen even some of them balk at the prices. … Read more
Louis Latour, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2014
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Montagny 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2020
($45, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection): Montagny, a village in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of Burgundy’s famed — and expensive — Côte d’Or has always been an insider’s place to find affordable white Burgundy. With ever increasing prices in Burgundy, it has become and even more popular place for those wines. … Read more
Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Mercurey (Burgundy, France) “Les Margotons” 2020
($38, Misa Imports, Craig Baker Selection): Domaine du Cellier aux Moines produced a stunning array of 2020 whites. With this one, they achieved a perfect combination of creamy character associated with Côte de Beaune whites and the stone-y mineral character of Mercurey whites. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour Made Outstanding 2020s
The 2020 vintage in Burgundy, currently on the market, is the third hot—temperature wise—vintage in a row. It’s also a “hot” vintage judging from some critics’ reviews and retailers’ enthusiasm. Hot vintages are tricky, especially in Burgundy. The good news about growing seasons with hot, sun-drenched days is that the wines have ripe flavors and lack green, unripe ones and the accompanying palate-searing acidity. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Perrières 2020
($100, Louis Latour, USA): The 7.5- acre Les Perrières vineyard lies high up on the slope in a cooler locale, which may help explain this wine’s bright energy in a hot year like 2020. Though tightly wound, as expected from a young top premier cru, its stature shows with gorgeous mineral-scented aromatics and impressive length. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2020
($117, Louis Latour, USA): Wines from Aloxe-Corton, even its premier crus, are overshadowed by grand cru Corton and overlooked by consumers. Do. Not. Overlook. This. Wine. Its fleshy body atop a firm frame of iron-tinged flavors identify it clearly as Aloxe-Corton. … Read more
Sylvain Langoureau, St. Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) En Remilly 2020
($53, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Sylvain Langoureau is one of those excellent producers who has not yet achieved cult status, which is good news for savvy consumers because his wines remain undervalued. Combine his talents with a fantastic vintage for whites and voilà, you have a stunning white wine. … Read more
Domaine de L’Églantière, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2021
($27): Domaine de L’Églantière is one of two estates owned by Jean Durup Père et Fils, one of the top producers in Chablis. (Château de Maligny is the other.) You often will see both the name of the estate and Durup’s name on the label. … Read more
Château de Fleys, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2020
($22): Its softer style makes this a wonderful introduction to Chablis for those who have yet to discover the magnificent wines of this appellation. Fruitier and less mineraly than many Chablis, it will appeal to those who may be turned off by the prominent stony edginess many Chablis. … Read more
Pernot Belicard, Bourgogne Côte-d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2020
($34, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Pernot name is synonymous with great white Burgundy largely due to Domaine Paul Pernot in Puligny-Montrachet. But this being Burgundy, there are many estates with similar, or at least, overlapping names due to marriage and the French laws of inheritance. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Cras 2020
($50, Louis Latour, USA): Though at least 85 percent of wine from Beaune is red, a small amount of white come from that appellation. Latour’s white Aux Cras is one of the best. And because white Beaune lacks the cachet of the big three, Meursault, Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, the wines are less expensive. … Read more
Jean-Marc Brocard, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Sainte Claire 2019
($25): Simple advice: Buy whatever wines from Jean-Marc Brocard your budget allows. A leader in organic and biodynamic viticulture, Jean-Marc Brocard makes fabulous Chablis, from the “simple” village ones to the Grand Crus. His Sainte Claire bottling is a step up from his generic village Chablis and always over delivers for the price. … Read more
Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2020
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): I taste at Domaine Bart every year because they are one of the top producers in Marsannay, the northern-most village of the Côte de Nuits. Wines from Marsannay remain under consumers’ radar, in part, because the village has no vineyards designated as premier cru, yet. … Read more
Simonnet-Febvre, Saint-Bris (Burgundy, France) Sauvignon 2020
($17, Louis Latour, USA): Saint-Bris is an odd-ball appellation in northern Burgundy near Chablis that requires the use of Sauvignon Blanc, not Chardonnay. Saint-Bris sits on the same Kimmerigdian limestone as Chablis, yet the microclimate favors Sauvignon over Chardonnay. Since Sancerre is barely 60 miles to the west, it’s easy to understand how Sauvignon could thrive here. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Bourgogne Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2020
($18, Dreyfus Ashby): Another trifecta here — Drouhin, a great producer. Twenty-twenty, a great vintage across the board for whites. Eighteen dollars, an excellent price for a wine of this quality. Bourgogne Blanc, made entirely from Chardonnay, can come from vineyards throughout the region, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay (Burgundy, France) 2019
($37, Louis Latour, USA): Wines from Marsannay, the northernmost village of the Côte de Nuits, are finally getting the attention they deserve. French wine regulators are evaluating which vineyards within the Marsannay appellation will qualify for premier cru status. Once that happens, prices will accelerate even faster, much like what has happened since Pouilly-Fuissé vineyards received official premier cru classification. … Read more
Domaine Jean Féry, Côte de Nuits-Villages (Burgundy, France) Clos de Magny 2020
($40, Jeanne Marie Selection): In the ongoing search for more affordable red Burgundy, consumers must look to less familiar appellations, such as this one, Côte de Nuits-Villages, which encompasses vines in five different villages in the Côte de Nuits, but not the well-known ones. … Read more
Domaine Aurelie Berthod, Chorey les Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2020
($40): The vast majority of the vineyards of the Côte d’Or — and certainly all the great ones — lie on a slope to the west of the D976, (formerly the RN76), the major north-south highway than runs from Marsannay in the north to Maranges in the south. … Read more
Aligoté: Burgundy’s Other White Grape
White Burgundy is made from Chardonnay, right? Well, mostly. There’s another white grape in Bourgogne, Aligoté, that makes zippy, energetic wines perfect for summertime, and ones that are — I might add — are mostly affordable. Not an afterthought, Bourgogne Aligoté is treated with respect by top end producers, such as Coche-Dury, whose $300+ per bottle rendition is definitely not in the “affordable wine” category. … Read more
A Bullseye for Bichot
The house of Albert Bichot made an outstanding line-up of both red and white Burgundies in 2020, no mean feat since the growing conditions made success with both colors difficult because of the heat. Many critics, myself included, have raved about the overall success of the 2020 vintage for white Burgundies. … Read more
Don’t Overlook Village Burgundies
I’m just back from a week in Burgundy where I attended a spectacular week-long series of tastings, Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne, which turned out to be one of my best tasting experiences ever. Held biannually, visitors move from Chablis in the north to Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise, tasting wines from a group of villages each day. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) “Les Genièvres” 2020
($18, Louis Latour, USA): I’ve been buying and drinking this Mâcon-Lugny from Latour regularly since the 1979 vintage. It never disappoints and surprisingly, for a rather down-market appellation, actually develops beautifully with several years of bottle age. With the price of Côte d’Or white Burgundy through the roof, wines, such as this one, from the Mâconnais are the way to go for Burgundy lovers. … Read more