($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance. This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Valley of the Moon, Sonoma County (California) Pinot Blanc 2012
($23): It’s a pleasure to find a California Pinot Blanc that strikes the right balance. There can be a temptation to beef up this delicate wine either by using super ripe grapes or overwhelming it with barrel aging. Valley of the Moon has avoided both. … Read more
Foley Johnson, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($75): The Foley Johnson interpretation of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon focuses more on fruit than on earthy notes. Ripe sweet red, almost strawberry-like, fruit buttressed by fine suave tannins makes it easy to love. There’s a lovely purity and focus in this wine that makes it very appealing for current consumption.… Read more
Monticello Vineyards, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Tietjen Vineyard 2010
($72): The Rutherford section of Napa Valley is rightly known to be an ideal place for Cabernet Sauvignon. The line-up of wines from the Rutherford Dust Society — a group of producers who make wines from Rutherford grown fruit — shows the uniqueness of the region. … Read more
Quintessa, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) 2010
($135): Combine a great producer, Agustin Huneeus and his team, with a great place, Rutherford, and bingo — you get great wine. The 2010 Quintessa delivers a little bit of everything — fruit, herbs, earth, minerals — and not too much of anything. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2010
($35): Though best known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Grgich makes a stylish and dare I say, refined, Zinfandel. It has plenty of up-front fruit and briary spice, as befitting a Zinfandel. But what sets it apart is its lack of flamboyance. … Read more
Grgich Hills, Napa Valley (California) Petite Sirah Miljenko’s Vineyard 2009
($60): If anyone needed additional proof (I don’t) that Grgich Hills is a brilliant producer — one of California’s best — they should try this Petite Sirah. It’s a category I try to avoid judging at wine competitions because most Petite Sirah are massive and ponderous, lacking finesse and complexity I value and look for. … Read more
Tomero, Mendoza (Argentina) Torrontés 2012
($17, Blends Inc.): Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, with its lightness and delicacy, is at the opposite end of the spectrum from that country’s emblematic red grape, Malbec. Honeysuckle, but without the sweetness, springs to mind after one whiff and taste of Tomero’s 2012 Torrontés. … Read more
Oro de Castilla, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2012
($16, Olé Imports): It may be winter outside, but the essence of summer emerges once you pull the cork — or rather unscrew the top — of this bottle. Floral, bright and vibrant, it’s a joy to sip and drink. A slight nuttiness adds complexity without imparting heaviness. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($34, Dreyfus-Ashby): Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011
($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy. Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more
Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) Clos Saint Philibert 2011
($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Since the late 1980s when Jean Nicolas reclaimed previously leased vineyards and took over running the domaine, Méo-Camuzet has rapidly become among the star producers in Vosne-Romanée, with their top reds, Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, selling for $1,000 a bottle. … Read more
Domaine Sainte-Barbe, Viré-Clessé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2011
($26, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Viré-Clessé is a relatively new appellation (1998) that was created from two towns, Viré and Clessé, that were formerly included with the more general Macon-Villages because the wines from those towns were judged to be more distinctive. … Read more
Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011
($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family. Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years. The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica Gold” 2012
($30): The 2012 Eroica Gold, the inaugural vintage for this super wine, may explain the exceptional quality of the 2012 Eroica. If I had to guess, the winemaking team compulsively selected grapes — ones with even a hint of extra ripeness went into the Gold Eroica keeping the 2012 Eroica even brighter and more vibrant than usual. … Read more
Clos du Val, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Chardonnay 2011
($28): Though their wines are consistently among the best in Napa Valley, Clos du Val is not — and never was — a “cult” winery. All their wines have the same grace and balance of this Chardonnay. It’s toasty and rich without being oaky or obnoxious. … Read more
J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé NV
($38): Judy Jordan founded J Vineyards and Winery in 1986 and has been making stunning sparkling wines every since. Its grapefruit-tinged nuances impart a pleasantly cutting edginess. This fresh and floral style of rosé works well as an invigorating aperitif or as an accompaniment to smoked salmon or scallops in a decadent cream sauce.… Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2012
($32): I’ve had so many excellent vintages of Merry Edwards’ Sauvignon Blanc that I should no longer be surprised. But I am because I still associate her with stellar Pinot Noir and only few producers anywhere in the world show their talents with both grapes. … Read more
Bouchard Père et Fils, Savigny-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Henriot USA): Village wines get short shrift as consumers clamor for wines from Premier Cru vineyards. This village wine combines unexpected concentration with an alluring floral character. It shows the charm of many of the 2011 reds.
90 Michael Apstein Dec 17, 2013… Read more
Domaine Gallois, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The nice thing about a wine carrying only a Bourgogne appellation from a grower is that you know roughly the origin of the grapes, since they must have come from the grower’s domaine. That explains why this Bourgogne Rouge from Gallois, who is based in Gevrey-Chambertin, tastes like a miniature Gevrey-Chambertin. … Read more
Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011
($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more
Domaine Stèphane Magnien, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (Burgundy, France) “Cuvée Densité” 2011
($17, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Passetoutgrain is a blend of Gamy and Pinot Noir. When the vines are planted in the right place, as in Stèphane Magnien’s case, the wines can be delightful. Magnien makes two different cuvées of a Bourgogne Passetougrain. … Read more
Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011
($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or. Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy. Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012
($22): In 1999, Dr. Ernst Loosen, a leading producer in the Mosel (the ancestral home of the Riesling grape) and Chateau Ste Michelle embarked on a collaboration to produce world class Riesling in Washington’s Columbia Valley. The collaboration made sense since Chateau Ste Michelle was among the first to plant Riesling in Washington and the Dr.… Read more
Laetitia, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2012
($25): Laetitia could be considered a pioneer in Arroyo Grande Valley having planted their vineyards over 30 years ago. They make a line of distinctive vineyard-specific Pinot Noir. This one, a blend from their vineyards, delivers a whiff of herbal elements that adds great interest to this otherwise classic fruit-focused California Pinot Noir. … Read more
Chateau Greysac, Medoc (Bordeaux, France) 2009
($20): Château Greysac, a consistently value-packed wine, is one of the most widely available Bordeaux in the U.S. marketplace. The 2009 is particularly successful because the fleshy ripe fruitiness and power of the vintage marries nicely with the savory, slightly bitter notes characteristic of wine from the Médoc.… Read more
La Bastide Dauzac, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($39): When consumers consider Bordeaux, they rightly remember the names of the chateaux more than the names of the people behind them. Well, the name André Lurton is worth remembering because the Lurton family has a spectacular track record of producing excellent wines from a variety of properties all over Bordeaux. … Read more
Clos Floridene, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($33): White wine from Bordeaux is undervalued and overlooked. Don’t make that mistake with this charming example. It has a near magical combination of a pleasantly grassy pungency beautifully balanced by a lanolin-like creaminess. Truly mouth filling, it’s long and graceful as well. … Read more
Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012
($15): The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food. The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Rully (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21): The town of Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise just south of the Côte d’Or is a sleeper as a source for well priced white and red Burgundy, especially in 2012, a vintage that was short on quantity, but long on quality. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012
($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores. The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity. The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more
Joseph Drouhin, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “Réserve de Vaudon” 2012
($23, Dreyfus Ashby): Though based in Beaune in the Côte d’Or, Maison Joseph Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s best négociants, owns substantial vineyards in Chablis. Their Réserve de Vaudon, made from grapes grown in their vineyards, is a perfect way to discover this unique style of Chardonnay. … Read more
Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012
($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table. It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Léo de la Gaffelière, Saint-Emilion (Bordeaux, France) 2011
($19, Luneau USA / Nicolas Wines): Château La Gaffelière is one of the leading properties in Saint-Emilion, making sensational wine year in and year out. As the competition at the top end of Bordeaux continues, the top properties make ever increasing severe selections to maintain the quality — and price — of the top wine. … Read more
Château de Cruzeau, Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France) 2010
($27, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): This wine exemplifies why Bordeaux remains a benchmark for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot-based wine. It’s not just about the fruit, of which there’s plenty. But the real excitement comes from the non-fruit flavors of earth, herbs and ash, plus the slight bitterness in the long and fine finish. … Read more
Château Gravelier, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($10, Esprit du Vin): Let me know when you find a better $10 red wine. This Merlot dominant (70%) blend is an unbelievable bargain, delivering both fleshy fruit flavors and balancing savory notes. Solid weight, freshness, and an ever so slightly bitter finish just add to the enjoyment. … Read more
Château Lamothe de Haux, Bordeaux (France) 2012
($12, Bayfield Importing): White wines from Bordeaux, such as this one, are underappreciated and hence, offer great value. The 2012 Château Lamothe de Haux, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (40%), Semillon (40%) and Muscadelle, delivers a lovely grassy bite — Sauvignon Blanc speaking — atop a creamy texture, thanks to the Semillon. … Read more
François Chidaine, Vouvray (Loire Valley, France) “Les Argiles” 2012
($25, Beaune Imports): Vouvray is often shunned because the consumer can’t discern the level of sweetness from the label. Well, there’s no reason to shun Chidaine, one of the leaders in Vouvray. His 2012 Les Argiles is fruity, yet dry, and pleasantly piercing, which makes it positively mouth cleansing.… Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bench Blend” 2010
($45): William Hill’s Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon represents a blend of wines made exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in their best vineyards, according to Ralf Holdenried, their winemaker. Similar to their Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which contains a dollop of other varieties, this Bench Blend is dense and dark with a harmonious interplay of herbs and black fruit and an appealing bitterness in the finish. … Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2010
($30): This is serious Merlot — dark and dense with even chocolate nuances. And a touch of leafiness, just to reinforce it is real Merlot. The tannins are polished, but it’s not a soft wine, so I wouldn’t recommend sipping it before dinner. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2011
($62): The age of the vines — the vineyard’s 40 years old — shows in this wine’s complexity and refinement. It combines the brightness and liveliness character of Edwards’ Sonoma Coast bottling with the intensity of her Georganne Pinot Noir. What’s most amazing is the way it unfolds in the glass, revealing more and more pleasure over a couple of hours. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith 2011
($60): Edwards’ Coopersmith bottling is always one of her most gorgeous Pinot Noirs, perhaps because the vineyard is named for her husband. The epitome of power and grace, this Pinot Noir combines everything you’d want from that variety — floral notes, earthy minerality and plenty of fruit. … Read more
William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($40): This fine wine shows the gorgeous combination of herbal and fruit — cassis — flavors that makes Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon so enthralling. The tannins are remarkably fine for such a dark and almost brooding wine. A refreshing even so slightly bitter finish adds to its appeal. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2011
($39): Merry Edwards shows that the French have no monopoly on the concert of terroir. Her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is refreshingly different from her Russian River bottlings. It delivers bright berry-like flavors intermingled with spicy and earthy nuances. It’s a lively and invigorating wine that combines succulence and spice without being overdone. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2011
($57): From her youngest vineyard, which was planted in 2006, Edwards’ Georganne is a bigger and weightier wine than her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir bottling. Conveying more black than red fruit-like flavors, it has an attractive burly presence. Almost chewy, Edwards magically prevents it — and all her Pinot Noir — from being heavy. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Indian Wells 2012
($18): Though a more restrained — thankfully — style of Chardonnay, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells bottling doesn’t lack flavor. A subtle creaminess enhances the spicy tropical fruit-tinged flavors. It’s 14.5% stated alcohol shows as a touch of heat in the finish, but doesn’t detract once you match this wine with grilled swordfish.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Indian Wells 2011
($17): Chateau Ste Michelle has pumped up this Merlot by adding Syrah (15%) to the blend thereby creating a plumy ripe wine. Still the black fruit doesn’t obliterate the engaging subtle leafy funkiness characteristic of real Merlot. The overall impression is a lovely combination of deep dark fruit with hints of earth. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($150): Will Berliner is either a visionary or has beginner’s luck. An American married to an Australian and settled in Western Australia’s Margaret River area, Berliner has no formal education or real background in wine. Nonetheless, what he is producing is nothing short of amazing. … Read more
Renwood Winery, Fiddletown (Amador County, California) Zinfandel 2011
($25): With their Fiddletown bottling, Renwood Winery has produced a lush and simultaneously, briary Zinfandel, filled with dark fruit flavors and spice. It has depth and the ripe fruit notes come across as a touch sweet, but yet, overall, the wine remains in balance and not overblown. … Read more
Robert Mondavi, Oakville (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2010
($135): This concentrated and bold — 15% stated alcohol — Cabernet does manage to contain itself. The breeding of Napa Valley is apparent with rich cassis-laden fruit flavors combined with haunting herbal nuances. Tightly wound with fine, but firm tannins, the 2010 Mondavi Reserve is best cellared for several years. … Read more