Category Archives: Reviews

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV

($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance.  This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more

Domaine Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) La Chapelle 2011

($33, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Lafouge is a star producer in Auxey-Duresses, an off the beat track village that is becoming better known as a place to find high quality reasonably priced Burgundy.  Good concentration, charming cherry-like note and a balancing savory finish makes this is an easy wine to recommend for current consumption with a roast chicken.… Read more

Domaine Jobard, Rully (Burgundy, France) “Montagne la Folie” 2011

($27, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Domaine Jobard is a small domaine worth watching because fine winemaking runs in the family.  Laurence Jobard, mother of Claudie, the current winemaker, was the winemaker at Maison Joseph Drouhin for 30 years.  The stature of this Rully, a village wine, comes from the old vines — their average age is 40-45 years. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica Gold” 2012

($30): The 2012 Eroica Gold, the inaugural vintage for this super wine, may explain the exceptional quality of the 2012 Eroica.  If I had to guess, the winemaking team compulsively selected grapes — ones with even a hint of extra ripeness went into the Gold Eroica keeping the 2012 Eroica even brighter and more vibrant than usual. … Read more

J Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé NV

($38): Judy Jordan founded J Vineyards and Winery in 1986 and has been making stunning sparkling wines every since.  Its grapefruit-tinged nuances impart a pleasantly cutting edginess.  This fresh and floral style of rosé works well as an invigorating aperitif or as an accompaniment to smoked salmon or scallops in a decadent cream sauce.… Read more

Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2011

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): Considering that they are the sole owners of the Grand Cru vineyard, La Grande Rue (one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in all of Burgundy since it’s bordered by La Tache, La Romanée, La Romanée-Conti, and Romanée Saint-Vivant), Domaine François Lamarche is one of the most under-rated Burgundy producers. … Read more

Domaine Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2011

($32, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection): The Hautes-Côtes is less well-situated land to the west and above the major villages of the Côte d’Or.  Wines from talented producers, such as Domaine Lamarche, represent value-packed Burgundy.  Lamarche’s nicely concentrated 2011 is quite fragrant and surprisingly elegant and glossy for a wine from this appellation.… Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2012

($22): In 1999, Dr. Ernst Loosen, a leading producer in the Mosel (the ancestral home of the Riesling grape) and Chateau Ste Michelle embarked on a collaboration to produce world class Riesling in Washington’s Columbia Valley.  The collaboration made sense since Chateau Ste Michelle was among the first to plant Riesling in Washington and the Dr.… Read more

Laetitia, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2012

($25):  Laetitia could be considered a pioneer in Arroyo Grande Valley having planted their vineyards over 30 years ago.  They make a line of distinctive vineyard-specific Pinot Noir.  This one, a blend from their vineyards, delivers a whiff of herbal elements that adds great interest to this otherwise classic fruit-focused California Pinot Noir. … Read more

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012

($15):  The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food.  The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more

Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) 2012

($15, Dreyfus Ashby): The low yielding 2012 vintage produced concentrated white Burgundies, which are just starting to appear on our shores.  The best producers, such as Drouhin, managed to combine that concentration with uplifting acidity.  The meager harvest, which concentrated the flavors, gave an extra boost to places like Mâcon where wines can often be dilute. … Read more

Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves (Bordeaux, France) 2012

($18, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants): Though I reviewed this wine earlier this year, I just tasted it again and realized I should repeat my earlier recommendation because it’s an especially good choice for the Thanksgiving table.  It’s a perfectly harmonized amalgam of lanolin-like texture (from Semillon, which comprises a majority of the blend), with the brightness and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more

William Hill Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bench Blend” 2010

($45): William Hill’s Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon represents a blend of wines made exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon grown in their best vineyards, according to Ralf Holdenried, their winemaker.  Similar to their Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which contains a dollop of other varieties, this Bench Blend is dense and dark with a harmonious interplay of herbs and black fruit and an appealing bitterness in the finish. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard 2011

($62): The age of the vines — the vineyard’s 40 years old — shows in this wine’s complexity and refinement.  It combines the brightness and liveliness character of Edwards’ Sonoma Coast bottling with the intensity of her Georganne Pinot Noir.  What’s most amazing is the way it unfolds in the glass, revealing more and more pleasure over a couple of hours. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2011

($39): Merry Edwards shows that the French have no monopoly on the concert of terroir.  Her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is refreshingly different from her Russian River bottlings.  It delivers bright berry-like flavors intermingled with spicy and earthy nuances.  It’s a lively and invigorating wine that combines succulence and spice without being overdone. … Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2011

($57): From her youngest vineyard, which was planted in 2006, Edwards’ Georganne is a bigger and weightier wine than her Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir bottling.  Conveying more black than red fruit-like flavors, it has an attractive burly presence.  Almost chewy, Edwards magically prevents it — and all her Pinot Noir — from being heavy. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Indian Wells 2012

($18): Though a more restrained — thankfully — style of Chardonnay, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Indian Wells bottling doesn’t lack flavor.  A subtle creaminess enhances the spicy tropical fruit-tinged flavors.  It’s 14.5% stated alcohol shows as a touch of heat in the finish, but doesn’t detract once you match this wine with grilled swordfish.… Read more