Category Archives: Reviews

Maison Alex Gambal, Chorey-lès-Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2012

($45, Schneider’s of Capitol Hill): Chorey-lès-Beaune, like Savigny-lès-Beaune, is another good source of reasonably — for Burgundy — priced wines.  The wines from Chorey tend to be a touch more robust than those from Savigny.  Gambal’s Chorey-lès-Beaune conveys more black fruit than red and has an engaging immediate impact, without sacrificing any of what has become the purity and elegance that marks Geraldine Godot’s winemaking. … Read more

Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

($63): Though Duckhorn has focused on Merlot since their inception, their Cabernets demonstrate that the winery is hardly a one-trick pony.  This classic Napa Valley Cabernet is firm without being aggressive.  Deeply flavored, it’s not over the top, but well-balanced delivering a mélange of black fruit flavors and herbal, savory — almost black olive type — notes. … Read more

Decoy, Napa County (California) Red Wine 2011

($25): Decoy is Duckhorn’s little sister winery that focuses on wines that are meant to be consumed immediately after release.  And this supple mid-weight wine is just that.  But like a decoy, it fools you.  Though you might think that a wine labeled “Red Wine” would be a non-descript commodity, this is far from that, offering good structure that balances its engaging fruitiness. … Read more

Domaine Drouhin Oregon, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Chardonnay “Arthur” 2012

($32):  The Chardonnay — and the Pinot Noir for that matter — from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the outpost of one of Burgundy’s leading producers, Maison Joseph Drouhin, both have the elegance and finesse of the mother ship.  The 2012 Arthur, named after winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s son, is paradoxically lush and restrained. … Read more

Paul Hobbs, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2011

($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay.  Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it.  Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more

Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch (Western Cape, South Africa) Sauvignon Blanc 2011

($17, Cape Classics): Cutting and piercing in an attractive way, Mulderbosch’s Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal foil for spicy Asian fare.  It will cut through anything on the plate, without being overshadowed, and reawaken any palate.  Its laser-like cut is startling without being aggressive or sharp and actually reinforces the wine’s flavors — an unusual combination to say the least.… Read more

Gascón, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2012

($15, Gascon USA): Gascón’s Malbecs have gotten more interesting over the years.  Years ago, when they first made their appearance on these shores, I dismissed them as big simple red wines.  The current version, the 2012, is still big, but simplicity has been replaced by an intriguing floral character, subtle dark cherry-like notes and even an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more

Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010

($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region.  This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes.  Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more

Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010

($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone.  This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more

Castello di Monsanto, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Il Poggio” 2009

($55, MW Imports): Il Poggio, a 13-acre single-vineyard that sits about 1,000 feet above sea level, is the source of Monsanto’s flagship wine.  The 2009, from a ripe vintage, is positively explosive with a captivating smoky and mineraly quality.  Racy acidity balances the ripeness so there’s no mistaking it for anything but great Chianti Classico. … Read more

Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily, Italy) 2011

($23, Palm Bay International): Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily’s only wine to be awarded the DOCG status, is a blend of two indigenous grapes, Nero d’Avola and Frappato.  Planeta’s 2011 begs for springtime with its fresh cherry-like aromas and taste.  The paucity of tannins in this charming red makes it perfect for chilling and a more substantial alternative to rosé when the weather and the food call for one.… Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Chablis (Burgundy, France) “La Chanfleure” 2011

($22, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains one of the best bargains for white Burgundy and this one from Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s best producers, should be snapped up.  This village Chablis — Chanfleure is the name of the pipette used to extract wine from a barrel for tasting — is clean and crisp with underlying invigorating minerality and a zesty lemony finish. … Read more