($440, Louis Latour USA): Chevalier-Montrachet, a 19-acre vineyard, sits just above Montrachet on a more rocky terrain with poorer soil. In my mind, it is home to Burgundy’s most exciting white wine, marrying the richness of Montrachet with a firmness reflected by the stony site. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Domaine Louis Latour, Corton (Burgundy, France) Château Corton Grancey 2012
($150, Louis Latour USA): 
With their 67+ acres of Grand Cru vineyards, Louis Latour owns more of those precious plots than anyone else in Burgundy. They are best known for their stellar wines from the Grand Cru vineyard of Corton — both red and white. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2012
($80, Louis Latour USA): Consumers tend to forget that the top-tier négociants, such as Louis Latour, make wine from grapes grown in vineyards they own in addition to buying grapes from others. Indeed, Latour, one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy, owns a substantial parcel in Vignes Franches, one of the best premier cru vineyards in Beaune. … Read more
Domaine Louis Latour, Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Chaillots 2012
($80, Louis Latour USA): Louis Latour, top-notch négociant established in 1797, is based in the Aloxe-Corton. Since their founding, have been able to purchase prime plots there, so it’s not surprising that they make excellent wines from vineyards in that village. … Read more
Mapema, Mendoza (Argentina) Sauvignon Blanc 2011
($12, Vine Connections): This high energy edgy Sauvignon Blanc will cut through any food you put on the table. It’s grassy and electrifying and so enlivening that it could wake the dead. But it’s a really good Sauvignon Blanc–as long as you embrace that citrus-infused herbal style–and at a great price.… Read more
Bodega Alejandro Fernández, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto Pesquera Reserva 2010
($49, Classical Wines from Spain): Commonly just known as Pesquera, this 2010 Reserva from Ribera del Duero expands on that wine’s dazzling reputation. It has marvelous minerality, penetration and spice, all wrapped in finely polished tannins that convey a sumptuous texture. … Read more
Falesco, IGP Umbria (Umbria, Italy) “Vitiano” 2012
($11, Winebow): In 1979, Riccardo Cotarella, one of Italy’s greatest winemakers, along with his brother, Renzo, founded Falesco, a winery that has been producing exceptionally valued wines ever since. Vitiano, a blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, and Cabernet Sauvignon, delivers fruit and earthy flavors supported by fine tannins and vibrant acidity with an enchanting slight bitter finish.… Read more
Firriato, Etna Bianco (Sicily, Italy) 2013
($13, Soilair Selections): For those in need of a last minute recommendation for a Thanksgiving white, here it is. Made from mostly (80%) Carricante, an indigenous Sicilian white grape, it delivers a hint of peach-like notes without being sweet. Indeed, there’s an alluring bitter nuance in the finish along with the signature Italian bracing acidity. … Read more
Firriato, IGT Terre Siciliano (Sicily, Italy) Nero d’Avola “Chiaramonte” 2011
($15, Soilair Selections): Nero d’Avola, a grape indigenous to Sicily, has the potential to set the wine world on fire because it is capable of delivering both fruity and earthy flavors when young — as in this rendition. Herbal aromas complement the black-fruited flavors in the mid-weight wine. … Read more
Montalbera, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “La Tradizione” 2011
($16, Soilair Selections): Ruché, an obscure grape native to Piedmont, thrives and, dare I say, achieves greatness, in the DOCG zone of Castagnole Monferrato. A savory, almost truffle-like, nose draws you. And then, with a paradoxical lightweight sensibility, it delivers an alluring mixture of sweetness and firmness. … Read more
Livon, Collio (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Angelini Wine): 
With all the mediocre examples of Pinot Grigio on the market, it’s understandable that those consumers really interested in wine just avoid the category entirely. As is often the case, price doesn’t separate the wheat from the chaff with many vapid ones occupying the same price point as this commendable one. … Read more
Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Classico Alto Adige (Alto Adige, Italy) 2013
($25, Banville & Jones Wine Merchants): Terlano, the name of the co-op formed in 1860, is also the name of the town, which can lead to some confusion. There’s nothing confusing about the wine, however. This harmonious blend of Pinot Bianco (60%), Chardonnay (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc combines richness with vibrancy. … Read more
Domaine de Durban, Beaumes-de-Venise (Rhône Valley, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($19, Kermit Lynch): 
The reputation of Beaumes-de-Venise hails from it sweet wines. But the red wines from Beaumes-de-Venise were recently promoted to “cru” status, much like neighboring Gigondas. Domaine de Durban, one of the leading producers of sweet Beaumes-de-Venise, shows itself to be equally adept with the red wine. … Read more
Jean-Paul Brun, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2013
($16, Louis Dressner Selections): 
Yes, it’s the Beaujolais Nouveau time of the year, and yes, 95% of Beaujolais is red, but that’s all the more reason to draw peoples’ attention to this wonderful Chardonnay-based wine. Jean-Paul Brun under the label of Terres Dorées redefines (red) Beaujolais. … Read more
Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace (France) Gewurztraminer Herrenweg de Turckheim Vendage Tardive 2011
($33, Kobrand Wine And Spirits): 
Though labeled, late harvest (“vendage tardive”), which would imply sweetness, this Gewürztraminer is not any sweeter than Zind-Humbrecht’s regular bottling. It’s just more concentrated, with a dash of botrytis-like richness and a racy vibrancy in the finish. … Read more
Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2013
($26, Vintus): 
The pleasant pungency and palate awaking electricity clearly defines the origin of Dog Point’s Sauvignon Blanc. But what puts it a cut above many Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is a subtle richness and great length. The result is a lively wine — that’s not shrill — with depth and an appealing subtly creamy texture. … Read more
Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006
($70, Winebow): Mastroberardino is, without doubt, one of the top producers in Campania and, indeed, in all of Italy. Their Taurasi is the benchmark for that appellation. This 2006 Riserva, amazingly still available at retail — an indication of how underappreciated these are — is sensational. … Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2010
($22): 
Savennières is an often-overlooked appellation in the Loire. Here the Chenin Blanc grape produces steely stony wines without a trace of sweetness, a characteristic usually associated with that grape. Without doubt, Baumard is one of the top producers of Savennières. … Read more
Taittinger, Champagne (France) “Les Folies de la Marquetterie” Brut NV
($100, Kobrand): 
Les Folies de la Marquetterie bottle is not meant to replace or compete with Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, which remains their Tête du Cuvée, or super-premium, Champagne. Indeed, the blend of grapes in Les Folies de la Marquetterie leans heavily on Pinot Noir, whereas their Comtes de Champagne is made entirely from Chardonnay. … Read more
Henriot, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
($59, Henriot, Inc): Henriot is one of the few producers to make a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I, for one, am glad they do because it’s a real treat that doesn’t break the bank, like the super premium bottlings do. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) La Dominode 2011
($45, Kobrand): 
Jadot’s Savigny-lès-Beaune and their Pernand-Vergelesses lend powerful support to France’s focus on terroir. These two wines, from comparably prestigious premier cru sites less than a few miles apart, were made from the same grape — Pinot Noir — by the same winemaking team. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2011
($39, Kobrand): 
The 2011 vintage for red Burgundies will always be overshadowed on a vintage by the rich 2009 and racy 2010. But the chief advantage of the 2011s is that they are deliciously forward wines. Indeed, they will give more pleasure for drinking now than either the 2009s or 2010s. … Read more
Maison Louis Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Baudes 2011
($100, Kobrand): 
The seductive combination of suaveness and depth is what accounts for the popularity, and hence, price of wines from Chambolle-Musigny. Jadot’s 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes has all the mineraly underpinning and glossy patina you’d expect from a premier cru from this esteemed village. … Read more
Villa Ponciago, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) La Reserve 2011
($21, Henriot, Inc): 
Beaujolais gets a bad rap. It’s partially deserved because of all of the slightly sweet and vapid swill labeled Beaujolais on the market. But there are a few producers who are trying desperately — they must sometimes feel it’s like pushing a rock up a hill — to change the image with their wines from the cru, or named villages, such as Fleurie, of the region. … Read more
Santa Rita, Maipo Valley (Chile) “Casa Real” 2010
($82, Palm Bay International): 
The grapes — entirely Cabernet Sauvignon — for Casa Real, the flagship wine from Santa Rita, come from their vineyard surrounding their home estate in the Maipo Valley, one of the best regions in Chile for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Martinsancho, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2013
($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Angel Rodriguez, the owner of Martínsancho, resurrected the Verdejo grape, the traditional cultivar of Rueda in the 1970s. King Juan Carlos of Spain recognized the importance of his work by awarding him the Cross of the Civil Order of Agriculture. … Read more
Morgadio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2013
($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Morgadio’s 2013 is to Rias Baixas what Martínsancho’s 2013 is to Rueda–a classic example of the denominacíon. If you want to know what all the fuss is about Rias Baixas and its indigenous grape, Albariño, just taste this wine. … Read more
Mas d’En Gil, Priorat (Spain) Coma Vella 2008
($45, Classical Wines from Spain): The 2008 vintage in Priorat was cooler than usual, producing slightly less concentration, more vibrant wines. Mas d’En Gil’s style leans toward less massive Priorat than many of the other producers. The combination of their style and the vintage means that this wine, while still packing plenty of punch, is less muscular than the typical Priorat. … Read more
Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Garnacha Roble 2012
($16, Classical Wines from Spain): My mantra is producer, producer, producer. But when I am unfamiliar with a producer, I look at the importer, especially those who specialize in a country or region, because some importers’ portfolio are more consistent than others. … Read more
Losada, Bierzo (Spain) 2011
($23, Classical Wines from Spain): 
Bierzo may lack the name recognition of Rioja, but its wines can be equally memorable. The Mencía grape, historically known for making dilute wines from over cropped vines, can make stunning wines, such as this one, when the vines are planted on the rocky hillsides in this northwestern region of Spain. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Douro (Portugal) Touriga Nacional 2011
($56, Vintus Wines): 
Touriga Nacional, the most prized grape for Port, is also the most prized grape for Portugal’s dry red wines. Quinta do Noval’s bottling of their dry wine is as exemplary as their Port. This is an elegant and racy wine, a true thoroughbred. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Vinho Regional Duriense (Portugal) “Cedro do Noval” 2009
($19, Vintus Wines): 
Quinta do Noval, one of the world’s greatest Port producers, has been making dry wines from their home in the Douro Valley for about a decade. They make three levels of dry wines. The first level, Cedro do Noval, named after the famous cedar tree that dominate the terrace at the Quinta do Noval, is a blend primarily of the classical Portuguese varieties with a small amount of Syrah. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay 2012
($200): 
I first tasted Cloudburst wines last year and was enthralled by them. I figured owner/winemaker Will Berliner either had beginner’s luck or was a visionary. Now that I’ve tasted another vintage of his Chardonnay, Cabernet and, now, Malbec, it is clear that his talents are not explained by beginner’s luck. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Malbec 2012
($225): Will Berliner, who has already shown his talent with his sensational Cabernet and Chardonnay, has added an equally impressive Malbec to his line up. Berliner included a small amount of Malbec in his Cabernet Sauvignon previously and clearly liked how it did so he decided to make a small amount of wine (5,000 bottles) exclusively from that variety. … Read more
Cloudburst, Margaret River (Western Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($250): 
Will Berliner, owner/winemaker at Cloudburst says he cares “about clarity and purity.” He found both in his 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, an extraordinary wine. In keeping with the Cloudburst style, Berliner squeezes incredible flavor and nuances out of his grapes without imparting heaviness. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Valley (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment” 2011
($18, Vintus): Errazuriz, one of Chile’s leading producers, is based in the northerly Aconcagua Valley, instead of near Santiago, home to most of the other leaders in the industry. Their “Wild Ferment” Chardonnay has always been one of my favorites, especially at the price. … Read more
Edna Valley, Central Coast (California) Chardonnay 2012
($15): It’s refreshing to find a California Chardonnay that’s balanced and delivers so much enjoyment for $15. The winemaking team has walked the line nicely by imparting a touch of seductive creaminess and a subtle patina of oakiness without going overboard. … Read more
McManus Family Vineyards, California (United States) Pinot Grigio 2013
($10): When people complain they cannot find good inexpensive California wine, I point them to McManus Family Vineyards. They have a consistent track record of producing good, well-priced wines, such as this Pinot Grigio. Floral with the barest hint of pears, it has sufficient acidity to match it with a simple fish dish, but not so much that you’d shy away from drinking it by itself as an aperitif. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2010
($195): 
Grgich’s 2010 Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is one of California’s grandest wines. It reminds us why Napa Valley, and in this case, the Yountville region, is so revered for that grape. The winemaking team, led by Mike Grgich’s nephew, Ivo Jeramaz, has hit the bull’s eye with this wine. … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Porrera de Vi de Vila de Vall Llach” 2010
($65, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Priorat is one of just two appellations awarded Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, Spain’s highest official wine category (Rioja is the other). Producers there are just starting to subdivide the region to show the distinctiveness of the wines from the various villages that comprise the DOCa. … Read more
Bolla, IGT Verona (Veneto, Italy) “Creso” 2010
($23): Traditionalists are advised not to read the technical details of this wine before tasting it. The Cabernet Sauvignon (one-third of the blend), the year’s aging in new French oak and the 15% stated alcohol all have the capacity to obliterate the character of the wine and throw it out of balance. … Read more
Marchese Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano Vecchie Viti” 2011
($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s finest producers, owns estates throughout Tuscany. Their Nipozzano estate is home to their splendid line of Chianti from the often-overlooked Rùfina subzone of that region. This bottling is from the oldest vines (Vecchie Viti) on the property. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Alle Mura Riserva 2007
($80): 
Castello Banfi has been — and remains — a leader in Montalcino, specifically refining and raising the profile of one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. They are one of the largest and best producers in the region and have devoted tons of money and done decades of research to determine which clones of Sangiovese do best in the region. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): 
Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): 
La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2013
($13, H. B. Wine Merchants): Chapoutier, one of the great Rhône producers, has expanded into the Languedoc with a terrific trio of wines, a white, a red and a rosé, from the Côtes du Roussillon appellation. This crisp and refreshing white has a surprising lift that balances and enhances the subtle stone fruit character. … Read more
Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Although the producer is always the most important information on the label, sometimes the importer’s name makes me sit up and take notice. For example, if Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name were on the back label, I would buy the wine. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment 2011
($20, Vintus): 
Aconcagua Costa is a subregion of Aconcagua, Chile’s most northern most premium wine growing area. Closer to the Pacific Ocean, it is a cooler area, perfect for Chardonnay, a grape than expresses itself best in cooler climate. Errazuriz has taken advantage of the location to making a stunning $20 Chardonnay (if it carried a Napa Valley appellation it would be at least twice as much.) … Read more