($195): 
Grgich’s 2010 Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is one of California’s grandest wines. It reminds us why Napa Valley, and in this case, the Yountville region, is so revered for that grape. The winemaking team, led by Mike Grgich’s nephew, Ivo Jeramaz, has hit the bull’s eye with this wine. … Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Porrera de Vi de Vila de Vall Llach” 2010
($65, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Priorat is one of just two appellations awarded Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, Spain’s highest official wine category (Rioja is the other). Producers there are just starting to subdivide the region to show the distinctiveness of the wines from the various villages that comprise the DOCa. … Read more
Bolla, IGT Verona (Veneto, Italy) “Creso” 2010
($23): Traditionalists are advised not to read the technical details of this wine before tasting it. The Cabernet Sauvignon (one-third of the blend), the year’s aging in new French oak and the 15% stated alcohol all have the capacity to obliterate the character of the wine and throw it out of balance. … Read more
Marchese Frescobaldi, Chianti Rùfina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) “Nipozzano Vecchie Viti” 2011
($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Frescobaldi, one of Italy’s finest producers, owns estates throughout Tuscany. Their Nipozzano estate is home to their splendid line of Chianti from the often-overlooked Rùfina subzone of that region. This bottling is from the oldest vines (Vecchie Viti) on the property. … Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio Alle Mura Riserva 2007
($80): 
Castello Banfi has been — and remains — a leader in Montalcino, specifically refining and raising the profile of one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. They are one of the largest and best producers in the region and have devoted tons of money and done decades of research to determine which clones of Sangiovese do best in the region. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cerequio” 2010
($107, Kobrand): 
Chiarlo owns more than half (23 of 40 acres) of this famed vineyard located in the commune of La Morra. In the 19th century the Cerequio vineyard was considered the only first growth of Barolo, according to Alberto Chiarlo, describes the wine from this vineyard, a south-facing amphitheatre, as the “Queen of Barolo” because of its ripe and open character. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Cannubi” 2010
($107, Kobrand): The 45-acre Cannubi vineyard, one of Barolo’s most acclaimed, is divided among 22 producers, according to Alberto Chiarlo. With 3 acres, Chiarlo is the second largest owner, but they still produce only 6,000 bottles annually. Chiarlo explains that Barolo’s two major soil types converge in Cannubi, which, in his opinion, accounts for its wines’ complexity and power. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “Le Orme” 2011
($15, Kobrand): The 2011 vintage, a warm one in Piedmont, was particularly good for Barbera because the extra ripeness balances that grape’s inherent acidity. With its bright signature and fruity charm, Chiarlo’s Le Orme is a great introduction for those who are unfamiliar with the virtues of that grape and wine. … Read more
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti Superiore (Piedmont, Italy) “La Court” 2011
($52, Kobrand): 
La Court, a more polished and “important” wine, makes a fascinating comparison with Chiarlo’s other Barbera d’Asti, Le Orme. The grapes come from the same vineyard, according to Alberto Chiarlo, but the ones destined for La Court are harvested later and then treated differently in the winery with fermentation occurring like Barolo, in open vats. … Read more
Chapoutier, Côtes du Roussillon (Languedoc, France) “Les Vignes de Bila-Haut” 2013
($13, H. B. Wine Merchants): Chapoutier, one of the great Rhône producers, has expanded into the Languedoc with a terrific trio of wines, a white, a red and a rosé, from the Côtes du Roussillon appellation. This crisp and refreshing white has a surprising lift that balances and enhances the subtle stone fruit character. … Read more
Château de Sours, Bordeaux (France) 2010
($20, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Although the producer is always the most important information on the label, sometimes the importer’s name makes me sit up and take notice. For example, if Jeanne Marie de Champs’ name were on the back label, I would buy the wine. … Read more
Errazuriz, Aconcagua Costa (Chile) Chardonnay “Wild Ferment 2011
($20, Vintus): 
Aconcagua Costa is a subregion of Aconcagua, Chile’s most northern most premium wine growing area. Closer to the Pacific Ocean, it is a cooler area, perfect for Chardonnay, a grape than expresses itself best in cooler climate. Errazuriz has taken advantage of the location to making a stunning $20 Chardonnay (if it carried a Napa Valley appellation it would be at least twice as much.) … Read more
Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Embruix de Vall Llach” 2011
($25, Folio Fine Wine Partners): 
Vall Llach, one of Priorat’s top producers, designates fruit from younger vines for their Embruix (bewitched in Catalan dialect). A 50/50 blend of the traditional varieties (Cariñena and Garnacha) with international ones (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), it delivers a more modern expression of the appellation.… Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Estate 2011
($34, Wilson Daniels): 
The grapes for this wine come from better-situated vineyards, either theirs or ones they manage. Indeed, they select the best fruit for this Estate bottling with the lesser quality grapes going into their excellent and very well-priced “Village” bottling, which, at $20 a bottle, is one of the best Chardonnays I’ve had at that price. … Read more
Cantina Roccafiore, Todi Grechetto Superiore DOC (Umbria, Italy) “Fiorfiore” 2012
($18, Vignaioli Selection): Grechetto di Todi, also known as Pignoletto, is a distinct variety from Grechetto di Umbria, the grape frequently used in Orvieto. So don’t think this is an Orvieto. Not surprisingly, given the name of the winery and the name of the wine, it is beautifully floral. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2009
($38, Wilson Daniels): Technically from Beaujolais, the wines from Moulin-à-Vent stand apart and have more in common with the rest of Burgundy because of the granitic soil of the appellation. This is a broad shouldered robust Moulin-à-Vent, reflective of the warmth and ideal growing conditions of the vintage. … Read more
Château du Moulin-À-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2010
($38, Wilson Daniels): 
Similar to their 2009, Château du Moulin-À-Vent’s 2010 Moulin-à-Vent reflects the vintage’s cooler growing season. Fresher and more lively than their 2009, the 2010 has an uplifting sour cherry-like finish that begs for another sip. Still with the granitic edge and firm — not hard — tannins expected from top-notch Moulin-à-Vent, it’s more linear and less opulent compared to the 2009. … Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2010
($48): Denser, more herbal and less fruity than their Merlot, this wine is quintessential expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. At this stage the tannins make it a less “friendly” wine — you don’t want a glass of it before dinner — but it’s a fabulous choice for prime rib. … Read more
Silverado Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Mt. George Vineyard 2010
($35): This is real Merlot and shows what that grape, when handled properly, can do. Very aromatic, it conveys ripe black cherry-like fruitiness and a pleasant and subtle funkiness that is characteristic of top-notch Merlot. Broad and deep, it carries its ripeness — it weighs in at a 14.9% stated alcohol — effortlessly. … Read more
Jordan Vineyard and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($53): 
Jordan continues to excel by sticking to the founders’ philosophy of making refined, not blockbuster, Cabernet Sauvignon. Their 2010 fits that mold beautifully. The bouquet is explosive, but in the mouth it is restrained and refined, seducing you with polish and persistence, not power. … Read more
Boschendal, Elgin (South Africa) Chardonnay 2011
($40, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): Elgin, a region about 60 miles south east of Cape Town, is known for its cool climate because of its proximity to the ocean. Chardonnay does well in cool climate because the lower temperatures at night allow the grapes to hold on to their acidity, which translates into freshness in the wine. … Read more
Cantina de Soave, Soave Classico (Veneto, Italy) “Rocca Sveva” 2013
($13): Cantina de Soave, a very good cooperative, makes a wide range of wines. The Rocca Sveva line is one of their upper level ones. This crisp Soave, clean and fresh, has a touch of fruitiness in the finish. Not the watery Soave so common decades ago, it has character. … Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Viré-Clessé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2010
($18, Louis Latour USA): Viré-Clessé, a small, 500-acre appellation created only in 1998, was carved out of the Mâcon-Villages appellation because the wines from Viré and Clessé (along with a couple of other towns) had considerably more potential. Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, has realized that potential with their 2010 Viré-Clessé. … Read more
Château Moulin-À-Vent, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($42, Wilson Daniels): Though Château Moulin-À-Vent focuses on their red wines, they also have old Chardonnay-planted vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé. Their Vieilles Vignes bottling conveys the stony character of Pouilly-Fuissé. Tightly wound at this stage, I would give it a few years before pulling the cork even though it’s from the 2012 vintage, one known for lower-acid white wines, because there’s no lack of structure here — the old vines speaking, I’m sure.… Read more
Château Lassègue, St. Emilion Grand Cru (Bordeaux, France) “Lassègue” 2005
($150, Sovereign Wine Imports): 
The 2005 vintage was exceptional in Bordeaux, and, indeed, throughout France. The weather was perfect throughout the growing season. The right amount of sun and the right amount of rain at the right time brought the grapes to perfect maturity. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) Pinot Noir 2012
($20): The Yarra Valley, just northeast of Melbourne, is a cool region, nicely suited for Pinot Noir, which can lose delicacy if the weather’s too warm. Indeed, this Pinot Noir has a lovely lacey, delicate quality enhanced by uplifting acidity. A subtle savory character comes through the fruitiness, adding complexity. … Read more
Robert Oatley, McLaren Vale (South Australia) Shiraz 2012
($20, Pacific Highway Wines and Spirits): This is the kind of wine that made Australian Shiraz famous. It’s a little meaty, a little spicy, a little fruity and most importantly, not over done, alcoholic or over wrought. I’d even say it’s graceful, word rarely used to describe Australian Shiraz, and when it is, it’s describing a wine that’s far more expensive than this one. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2011
($30): 
This marvelous Cabernet, approachable now, combines elegance with power. Not as concentrated as Chateau Ste. Michelle’s rendition from the Cold Creek Vineyard, this release from Horse Heaven Hills displays more refinement at this stage, while still delivering plenty of oomph. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2011
($35): This broad shouldered, concentrated Cabernet combines dense ripe fruitiness with more than a whiff of black olives and herbs. With a hint of bitterness in the finish and fine balance, it would be a fitting choice for a charcoal grilled steak. … Read more
Michael Mondavi Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Animo” 2010
($85): 
The grapes for Animo, (“spirit,” in Italian), come from the family’s vineyard atop Atlas Peak. Michael Mondavi, one of the sons of the late, legendary Robert Mondavi, explains that they chose the name because they felt the wine expressed the spirit of Atlas Peak. … Read more
Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($60): 
This wine shows you can’t rely on vintage charts. The 2011 vintage in Napa was terrible for Cabernet Sauvignon, the valley’s signature grape. Unusually cool wet weather made it a struggle for Cabernet vines to fully ripen their fruit during the growing season. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Saint-Véran (Burgundy, France) 2012
($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Saint-Véran, a small appellation in the southern Mâconnais, has the potential to produce wines that are a touch more concentrated than those from the broader Mâcon-Villages appellation. The ripeness in this wine comes from both the appellation and the vintage. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($30, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): 
Pouilly-Fuissé, the best appellation in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy, has such a following in the US that producers can bulk up yields or otherwise cut corners on quality. Drouhin does not. The first sip conveys the refinement that separates this appellation from the rest of the Mâconnais. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Mâcon-Villages (Burgundy, France) 2013
($13, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): The Mâcon-Villages regional category of Burgundy is my go-to area for well-priced Chardonnay-based wines. Sadly, the overall quality of Mâcon-Villages is highly variable. That’s why it’s important to find ones from top-notch producers, such as Drouhin, a leading Burgundy négociant. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) “Couvent des Thorins” 2012
($28, Wilson Daniels): 
Ever since the Parinet family purchased this iconic property in 2009, they have been making marvelous wine. They focus solely on wine from Moulin-à-Vent, one of the top crus of Beaujolais. Moulin-à-Vent is home to well-structured rich wines that often need years of bottle age — these wines are as far away from insipidly fruity Beaujolais-Nouveau as you can get. … Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy) Clos des Londres 2009
($100, Wilson Daniels): 
Yes, you read the price correctly — $100 for a bottle of Beaujolais. But to associate this wine with conventional image of Beaujolais — a fruity easy-to-drink wine — would be a terrible mistake. The wines from Moulin-à-Vent, though a village in the Beaujolais region, rightly stand apart from that region and carry their own appellation. … Read more
Robert Oatley, Margaret River (Western Australia) Chardonnay “Signature Series” 2013
($15): 
Those who still think Australian Chardonnays are big and buttery need to try this restrained example from Western Australian, an area at the forefront of producing stylish and balanced wines. With subtle green apple nuances, this linear wine captures your attention its vivacity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Reserve 2011
($60): Dick Ponzi was one of the Oregon wine pioneers when he and his wife established their winery and vineyard in 1970. At the time, scarcely anyone thought Oregon was a place to grow Pinot Noir. Well, he was correct, as Ponzi’s Pinot Noirs have shown over the years. … Read more
Kumeu River, Auckland (New Zealand) Chardonnay Maté’s Vineyard 2011
($52, Wilson Daniels): 
Readers know I am an enthusiastic fan of Kumeu River’s wines. For me, this one, named in honor of the patriarch of the family, is always their best. It holds that position in 2011. It conveys the all-too-often elusive balance of richness and vivacity, with just the right amount of each. … Read more
Sartori, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy) 2011
($15, Cru Artisan Wines): Andrea Sartori refers to their Valpolicella Classico as “the disappearing version” because so many producers are abandoning it for a wine made using the ripasso method, a technique that adds power. One taste and you’re glad this bottling hasn’t disappeared.… Read more
Sartori, Rosso Veronese IGT (Veneto, Italy) “Regolo” 2010
($20, Cru Artisan Wines): Though made entirely from Corvina Veronese, the most prized grape of Valpolicella, and grown in the mandated area, Regolo can not be labeled Valpolicella because Sartori uses the ripasso method — combining the wine with the lees of the prior year’s Amarone, adding yeast and starting another fermentation — which is prohibited by DOC regulations.… Read more
Sartori, Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy) Corte Brá 2007
($50, Cru Artisan Wines): As good as Sartori’s Valpolicella and IGT Veronese wines are, this wine shows that Amarone deserves the reputation it has and why it has been awarded DOCG status. From grapes grown in the vineyard, Corte Brà, around the winery, this Amarone has great power without sacrificing elegance or complexity.… Read more
I Saltari, Amarone della Valpolicella (Veneto, Italy) 2007
($55, Cru Artisan Wines): This is an easy-to-recommend Amarone from the highly regarded 2007 vintage. It’s appropriately big and concentrated while retaining elegance and balance. The truly appealing character is an invigorating interplay between the sweetness of the fruit and the bitterness from the structure.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Poggio all’Oro 2007
($140, Cru Artisan Wines): 
When Castello Banfi purchased land and established a winery in Montalcino in the late 1970s, the locals nervously joked that they would ruin Brunello’s reputation by bottling it under screw top — they were (and still are) the USA importer of Riunite.… Read more
Clau de Nell, IGT Vin de Pays du Val de Loire (France) Grolleau 2012
($57, Wilson Daniels): 
The Oxford Companion to Wine notes that Grolleau, a local red grape of the Loire, “produces extremely high yields of relatively thin, acid wine and it is to the benefit of wine drinkers that it is so systematically being replaced with Gamay and, more recently, Cabernet Franc.” … Read more
Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) “Cuvée Violette” 2012
($57, Wilson Daniels): 
Here is an example of a wine that far exceeds the reputation of its appellation. Though there are well known appellations for red wines in Loire — Bourgueil and Chinon spring to mind — Anjou is not one of them. … Read more
Clau de Nell, Anjou (Loire Valley, France) Cabernet Franc 2012
($57, Wilson Daniels): 
Anne Claude Leflaive, who runs Domaine Leflaive, perhaps the most celebrated producer of white Burgundy, and her husband, Christian Jacques, purchased this domaine in 2008. It’s remarkable to see how a woman who made her reputation making some of the world’s greatest wines from the Chardonnay grape excels with Cabernet Franc. … Read more
Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard 2012
($35): Davis Bynum was a visionary in the Russian River Valley when, in 1973, he was the first to bottle a single vineyard Pinot Noir. Forty years later, the winery is still focused on and making excellent Pinot Noir there. Though pure clean red fruit flavors is the initial message from the 2012 Jane’s Vineyard bottling, lovely herbal nuances appear over time, creating a harmonious wine. … Read more
Edna Valley Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
($15): Edna Valley Vineyard has hit the bull’s eye with their 2012 Cabernet. Concentrated without being aggressive or overdone, it conveys both fruit and savory notes. It has the complexity — not just fruit flavors — that makes Cabernet Sauvignon so revered. … Read more
Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha 2011
($14): Here is another good choice when you need a robust red to go with burgers, skirt steak or even lamb cooked on the grill. A touch of spice in the finish complements the otherwise bright ripe fruit flavors. Suave tannins add support but not astringency. … Read more