Category Archives: Reviews

Rodney Strong, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Symmetry” 2012

($55): Similar to Rodney Strong’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, their Meritage wine, Symmetry, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), and other Bordeaux varieties (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot), is big and ripe with a seductively plush texture.   With the blend, however, comes complexity, which becomes even more apparent as the wine sits in the glass. Read more

Bila-Haut, Côtes du Rousssillon Villages Latour de France (Languedoc, France) “Occultum Lapidem” 2013

($30, HB Wine Merchants): Michel Chapoutier, the renowned Rhône producer, has a personal estate in the Languedoc, called Bila-Haut.  Latour de France (not to be confused with the bicycle race) is one of the four specific towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive wine and are allowed to append their names to the more encompassing Côtes du Rousssillon Villages appellation, much like the better villages in the Rhône can attach their names to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation.Read more

Henri Prudhon, St. Aubin (Burgundy, France) Les Argillers 2010

($30, Rosenthal Wine Merchant): St. Aubin, an off the main road village in Burgundy, is known mostly for whites, which, because of recent popularity, has already resulted in considerable prices increase for those Chardonnay-based wines.  The reds, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, such as this one, remain relatively undiscovered–and therefore, reasonably priced. Read more

Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012

($32, Maison Marques & Domaines): Querciabella, one of the stellar producers in the Chianti Classico region, does not rest on their laurels.  They are in the process of making Chianti Classico from several of the subregions of that DOCG, which will give consumers an opportunity, at long last, to discern the differences among the areas in the Chianti Classico region since the winemaking will be constant. Read more

Castello di Verrazzano, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2012

($23): A traditional producer, Verrazzano uses only Sangiovese and Canaiolo for their Chianti Classico, reserving Cabernet and Merlot, the so-called international varieties, for their Super Tuscan bottling.  Their powerful style is readily apparent with this 2012 Chianti Classico.  Despite its concentration, the wine is balanced with an interplay of dark cherry-like fruit and savory elements all enlivened by refreshing acidity. Read more

Nieto Senetiner, Valle de Cafayate (Salta, Argentina) Torrontés 2013

($11, Foley Family Wines): Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white grape, is gaining in popularity as consumers realize the zingy wine, such as this one, it can produce and, at a bargain price.  Fresh, clean and zippy, Nieto Senetiner’s curiously has a whiff of mintiness that lends roundness, which actually allows consumer to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif. Read more

Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($60): No doubt I will say more than once that the 2010 vintage for Brunello is outstanding — as good as it gets.  Lisini, a traditional producer who rarely falters, made one of the star wines of the vintage.  With an enormous initial aromatic impact, their 2010 delivers an alluring combination of flavors — earth and cherries — wrapped in firm, but polished, tannins. Read more

Caiarossa, IGP Maremma (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($85): The 2010 Caiarossa, an extraordinary wine and the best from this estate since its commercial debut with the 2004 vintage, shows how far this producer has come in a very short time. Owned by same Dutch family who own the Margaux classified growths Château Giscours and Château du Tertre, and whose general manager, Alexander Van Beek, runs those two Bordeaux properties, Caiarossa uses a seeming mishmash of grapes — Bordeaux varieties, Syrah and even Alicante — to make this impressive Super Tuscan. Read more

Castellare di Castellina, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2013

($20, Winebow): Castellare di Castellina, one of my favorite Tuscan producers, succeeded again with their 2013 Chianti Classico.   Not gussied up with new oak or Cabernet Sauvignon, Castellare di Castellina sticks with traditional techniques to produce an easy-to-recommend wine replete with herbal and earthy flavors that offset and complement its bright cherry signature. Read more

Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Carato” 2009

($32, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Carato, another Vernaccia di San Gimignano from the exemplary producer Montenidoli, is fermented and aged for a year in barrel before bottling.  The winemaking here is so precise that you don’t taste woodiness.  Rather, you feel the effect of wood on the wine — it’s a fuller, richer version of Vernaccia di San Gimignano that retains finesse and vigor. Read more

Montenidoli, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy) “Fiore” 2012

($25, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Montenidoli is one of the very best producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano.  Anyone who has been disappointed by this category of Italian white should taste their wines to see how grand this DOCG can be. Montenidoli makes three Vernaccia di San Gimignano; this one, made from free-run juice and labeled Fiore (flower) is, indeed, floral, fresh and clean. Read more

Badia a Coltibuono, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2010

($34, Dalla Terra Direct): Since the 2010 vintage was superb in Chianti Classico and Badia a Coltibuono is one of the star producers in that region, it is not surprising that this wine is stellar.  Not boisterous, this is a classically proportioned Chianti Classico Riserva with great elegance and a seamless combination of bright red fruit flavors and earthy notes. Read more